Removing shims with a magnet?

It’s a mistake to not label them, BUT it’s just a time-costing mistake, in your case.... just stick the shims back in. Then you’ll have to measure/do the shim clearance adjustment procedure. I’m more concerned with the buckets...... ideally they go back into the same bores they came from. Since you kept things in at least cylinder-specific bags, I’d recommend that you pay close attention to them when you re-install. For each cylinder they should feel very smooth and slippery in the bore but with zero ‘slop’ and zero binding. They should feel this way through up and down motion AND rotational. If one of them doesn’t feel perfect, then swap them and try again. Make sure the bore are meticulously clean And the buckets, too. Also make sure they are well oiled.

 

would have been easier to know what went where.
if you kept the shims seperated by cylinder you have a 50/50 chance of replacing them correctly.
not a big deal unless you have a Maxim X.
if all your shims are in the same bag
I would recomend getting the plastic shim place holders from chacal install them
take your thinnest shim install it measure clearance and install the correct shim(if you have it)

if your shims are all close in size you could just install them and measure clearances.
then see what you have and get the ones you need after you swap what shims you can.
and get the remaining cylinders as close to spec as possible
those plastic shims come in handy.

 

1. I’m assuming he’s working on his 650 maxim
2. Since he said he put everything into 4 bags, I’m assuming 1 bag for each cylinder. That’s why I thing he’s ok to just carefully feel the buckets. The shims.... it’s either gonna be one shim if the other. Either way, once they’re in and the crank is spun a bit, ( and cools all the way back down if the bike fires up), a check/adjustment will take care of things.

 

Yes 4 bags one for each cylinder contains; valves, springs, buckets, shims, seats and collets. This is my first rebuild...ever so not my first mistake and not my last i'm sure. had to get 2 snapped intake boot studs extracted and the mechanic recommended lapping the valves which again in another new process for me. Guessing lapping would thro off shim sizes anyhow.

so valve adjusting takes place AFTER rebuild and firing the engine?

i'll watch the buckets durring install to insure smooth operation. i was impressed on how smooth they turned with your fingers and fell out of the heads. Most of the shims were the same way, rotated very smooth (2 did not and had to be pried out with tiny screwdriver. valve guide seals were like a dentist extracting teeth with a plyers...next remove and pistons, gudgeons pin and rings...then soda blast piston heads.

top half rebuild is interesting to say the least. i've been ordering gaskets and stuff from Len, rings and a few other things are next.

 

If you’re lapping the valves, yes that would throw things anyway. In this case, I’d recommend putting all things in, then measure clearances and make. adjustments to get in spec. Then close everything up, dial it in.Then ride it for a week or so. Pull the valve cover off and recheck on a day that the bike has not been fired up, so it’s stone cold..... remeasure all clearances, adjust any still needing to get back in spec. Re-sync your carbs as needed. NOW you should be good for another 5k til next clearance check

 

I lapped mine during my rebuild and I did this exact thing (probably Dave's advice to me back then too) and it worked out perfect. In spec during assembly, rode it for a few hundred miles and rechecked. Had a few out of spec and replaced those.

 

I've been hearing for years it's a bad idea, and even did it myself a few times, but have never come across any evidence of the downside.

 

I’ve done it for years.... the manual says to use one— I’m not concerned with it

 

Great video on shimming.

Hogfiddles says: 'If you’re lapping the valves, yes that would throw things anyway'. I don't understand? Are you simply saying put the shims back, ride awhile THEN do the shimming procedure?

Also; checkout this image from underside of the valve cover. the chain is dangerously close to the cover......is this normal? perhaps the chain was extremely loose. (see attached image)

 

A lot of semi-educated people have passed along a lot of bad advice over the decades. Magnetizing steel is not as easy as just touching a magnet to it.

 

Even if your valves ARE in spec, and you take things apart to lap the valves and seats, you can end up out of spec. So, you may as well just put your shims back in, run for a bit 50-100 mi maybe— then let it cool down for overnight then check and adjust.

Valve cover - the chain does run close to the cover.... a little looseness to the chain can cause the chain to rub the cover a bit. You can adjust the tension via the cam chain tensioner.