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2006 KLR 650

Discussion in 'Other Motorcycles' started by Timbox, Nov 25, 2021.

  1. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Yes the winter months are here in good old WI, so that means another project. This will indeed be a project as you will see from the pics.

    I used to have a newer 2009 KLR 650 and did most of the common modes to it. I didn't like how the new wind screen and jammer on it was, so this older model does not have that.
    [​IMG]DSCN0001 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
    [​IMG]DSCN0003 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
    [​IMG]DSCN0004 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
    Nice wiring for the turn signals and who knows what else.
    [​IMG]DSCN0013 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
    Here is the real issue with all these bikes. Sometimes you get a good factory one that will not eat oil, other times you get one like this had to be and eat lots of oil. The PO didn't check it and the exhaust came just give up at the decompression device.
    [​IMG]DSCN0020 by Tim Brown, on Flickr

    Going to pull the valve cover off, pug and see how bad things really are. I will guess I will need the new kit, and some hot cams for this. I am not trying to make a fast bike, I just want a beater for the property and maybe a short trip now and then.
     
  2. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    Yikes, something in the exhaust valve decompression came apart.
    With luck there may be no damage to the head.
    Relatively low miles so I don't suspect the PO screwing up a valve adjustment.
     
  3. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Well cam journals are done.....hmmm
    [​IMG]DSCN0030 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
    Here you can see the exhaust journal that failed. The shim was knocked out of the holder and the decompression mechanism is in parts.
    [​IMG]DSCN0029 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
    Well, might just have to go with a used engine off Ebay or make some calls.
    [​IMG]DSCN0026 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
    Will be doing a lot more research and looking for heads or places that can re-weld the journals in the head. The bottom of head that meats the jug is great, as is the piston and valves.
     
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  4. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Decided to go with a different engine. I will be here in a few days and I can go from there.

    In the mean time, lowered the rear shock to OEM. Took all the extra wiring off....Yes the PO I guess thought this was a bad street bike. They has put LED lighting strips under the tank and rear fender. I was a little shocked and LOL in my shop to find the trips glued to the rear underside of the fender. I can only guess that they would turn the lights on and then burn out from the looks of the rear tire. This bike may not have seen dirt roads in its lifetime.
    [​IMG]259265175_220340680237556_7340192833828473703_n by Tim Brown, on Flickr
    [​IMG]258948201_610608783312150_1898967734869745657_n by Tim Brown, on Flickr
    [​IMG]261133883_1093610618044766_3149536697468812565_n by Tim Brown, on Flickr
    [​IMG]258881434_1202149000277310_8034924989487557263_n by Tim Brown, on Flickr

    Just got a note from the ebay guy calling me a liar that he thought I was going to pick up the used engine. I have him the option to cancel my auction and refund my $$. We will see how this goes. If nothing else I guess there is a shop that can fix the damaged head and put in copper bushings in place of he cam race/journals.

    Got all the electronics taken care of. Will have to order new rubber for both brake masters, all expanded and nasty. The PO also had the bike set on the lower hole of the shock dogleg, so this was really high, back to OEM now.
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2021
  5. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Looks like the other used engine is on the way, guy went back and looked at our messages. He must of had a few people looking at it and lost track of who won the bid. It happens life goes on.

    Did a little platic welding today to rear fender to plug the hole from the LED ground effects system that was there. Still shaking my head over that. Removed the side cover looking to see if it had an upgraded DOO device in it, nope. Removed the jug and will give Eagle Mike a call on Monday for the big bore kit instructions. I would guess over the holidays it will take some time.

    Took another look at the old head, all valves are bent, not too sure if I will even take the time to try to remove them. rest of the engine seems fine besdies it being so very dirty inside. With only 11K miles wonder how often if ever the PO changed oil. I will get to the oil filter one of these days to see if there are any chunks...I hope not.
     
  6. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    So those of you who are certified mechanics and for us shade tree people, explain to me this:
    These are the valves that came out of the head.
    [​IMG]0 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
    This is the piston.
    [​IMG]3 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
    This is the head.
    [​IMG]13 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
    Without a collision from the valves running into the piston, how did three valves get bent?
    [​IMG]5 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
    [​IMG]8 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
     
  7. Minimutly

    Minimutly Well-Known Member

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    I think you need to look again at the reliefs on that piston. All 3 have had a valve hit it.
    Maybe get a magnifying glass (I'm not joking here - the devil is allways in the detail).
    You need to inspect that piston carefully for other damage, as well as the conrod.
     
  8. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    I was told that the timing was off and that the valves hit each other intake hit the exhaust valves....

    I will take your advise and look. The piston will not be reused, I am going with a 685 or larger kit for the bike. This bike was a oil burner so not going to keep the same jug and piston configuration.
     
  9. Minimutly

    Minimutly Well-Known Member

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    You were told... by who mystic meg and her crystal ball?
    The answer, as is mostly the case, is with you, not on a forum. But I can tell you from looking at that piston, it hit the valves, all four of them (I zoomed in after the reply above). They may have got tangled in themselves, but its unlikely that would have bent all, or three of them.
    New/replacement head too?
     
  10. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    There is so little to go with the piston face. I have seen valve damage to a piston and will just does not look like it would do that much damage. Now a mute point, the head and piston will not be used. From my new pics and looking over the rest of the engine...the crank looks to have marking on it too. So yep, the engine is done...
    The crank has some nice groves in it...that is not good.
    [​IMG]d4 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
    Filter and screen seem to have done their jobs on the big stuff. But not it no longer madders.
    [​IMG]d3 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
    Part of the KACP that made its way down through the engine.
    [​IMG]d2 by Tim Brown, on Flickr

    I guess looking for a new engine is the way too go. Hell it is only $$, can't take it with you, or so I have been told.
     
  11. Minimutly

    Minimutly Well-Known Member

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    I'd be stripping it to have a look - those marks are superficial, and on a surface that doesn't do anything. Having said that it looks like bits have been washing around in there.
    A barrel and head plus gaskets has got to be cheaper than a whole engine or is it?
     
  12. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Yes gave the inside of the engine a good bath today. Hand rotated it while I had an AUX tank run kerosene into the crank area. Had a clean pan under bike to catch dripping. There we no significant shaving only specs. Did this will a gallon and I might filter it and do it again.

    Yes you are right on the cost of these motors...wow they are something else to find now. If yo do find one, they want a local pickup as the freight fees are getting higher. The new full head should be here soon. I will be sending out he jug for the 685 kit that will come with new piston, rings and gaskets.
     
  13. Minimutly

    Minimutly Well-Known Member

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    Whatever you do, don't fit the replacement bits without checking the oil pump - that head died due to lack of lubricant, you need to be sure that is ok (and clean) before proceeding.
    Can you turn the engine over to check for top end oiling?
     
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  14. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Yes engine spins freely. The Doo is in the mail, the new head is too, so once that all gets here I will look over as much as I can. I think the PO was into show and really didn't care about the maintenance of the bike at all. The oil that came out was the worst I have ever seen.

    There is a place that also does work on the head to make the oil flow better too. I might do that as well. This bike for now is just for my land to ride around and check trail cams and play. I might later on take it on the road. I did like my old 2009 but just didn't like how big the front end was. The newer 2022 model looks to have a change small front end again.
     
  15. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I've had an 89, 97, 00 and now ride a 15.
    I agree with you the Gen 2 lost trail riding competency with the huge fairing, I like it for touring.
    Each generation Gen 1 - Gen 2 - now Gen 3 gains another 30 lbs each time.
    How much did you pay for this 06 with blown motor?
    Did you sell the XL600 you were working on?
     
  16. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    $500 with a title....

    I still have the XL600R, need to change out the stator and I hope that helps with starting. When it is warm out three kids and it is running. I might sell it this summer when the KLR is up and running.

    The weight might help with the touring. I remember being blown around on the interstate when I was riding the 09. If you remove that sale of a front fender that might not happen as much. I know my Bandit is really good for my touring needs, but when the blacktop ends I am not too happy to take it on those roads.
     
  17. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Did some work on the plastics, done with a heat gun (in 1st pic) just heat it up until it gets a little glossy looking and then keep the heat even and move. Got the idea off of Youtube so thanks to the people that have posted there for us all to use.
    [​IMG]n01 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
    [​IMG]n02 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
    [​IMG]n03 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
    [​IMG]n04 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
    Front and back brakes done (waiting on new diaphragms for both MC), also took 1 link out of the chain. Packing up the jug to send down the road.
     
  18. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Head and cove are here! Very nice clean and well taken care of head. Glad to have this coming along after the damage I found. Jug was sent off today as well. I am sure it will be a while until I see it again with the Holidays, but you never know.

    Looks like I will have to paint those covers with something to make it look better. I was not going to just keep slapping paint on top of paint though.
     
  19. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Weather warmed up a little yesterday, so took the time and worked on putting the bike back together. Carbs back on, all the hoses for the cooling system. Wires all routed and plugged back into place. clutch side cover back on, water pump and all the good stuff that goes with that.

    Then I had to put the old girl down:
    [​IMG]270189024_4757772194317612_1073589295979497843_n by Tim Brown, on Flickr
    This is just a temp thing, I had to have good access to the oil drain hole to try and fix it. I am attempting to put a 9mm plug in there and then JB weld around it. I put thread tape on the bolt and a thin layer of grease so the JB weld will not stick to the bolt. Not too sure how this will work. Will let it dry for some time as the temps here in Wisconsin are not very warm for epoxy to dry.
    [​IMG]271194265_209309991337128_5973086331024224787_n by Tim Brown, on Flickr
    If this works I think the end plan is to put a "time sert" in there. Seems like the correct way to seal it the best. I just wanted to build up a little around the OEM hole before I try the sert.
     
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  20. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Time Sert went in today. Will have to see how it holds. I used some more JB steal around the out side of the plug as the liquid JB weld broke off during the Time Sert install. Hope it holds this time and no oil leak. Really want to get the bike put together and see if it runs.
     

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