Need to split cases, what else should I do while I'm in there.

Just got a 1982 x75 yesterday for free. It has 26000 miles on the clock.
Need to split the cases cause of starter issues, and because I wanna do it right. What else should I do/go over while it's apart?
Plan is to go bobber.

 

Welcome to the forum. If your bikes mileage is genuine at 26,000 miles I doubt there is anything wrong with your starter clutch, unless the springs are weak.

@Jetfixer has recently done two starter clutches and has pictures.

Read this first

https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/thre...r-slipping-starter-clutch.130438/#post-665968

There are a number of issues that can cause starter clutch slip and other issues such as low voltage, starter motor problems, incorrect oil etc. Eliminate all the potential causes you can before stripping the motor.

 

Thanks for the reply. Yea I plan to get some better carbs and or rebuild the ones I have, and rebuild the starter. Then give it a go again.

 

Anyone ever use these?

 

Here is my thread link https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/dreaded-starter-clutch-replacement.130190/ if the starter clutch slips , my findings after 30 plus years the springs loose tension and wont engage correctly, on one of my engines ( I have a spare) the springs were slightly shorter than the new repair kit I had. The other engine was the same but one roller had a galling mark . If you do this follow this advise: get a good quality repair kit , one of the engines I put a Caltric starter clutch assembly in, the other was a set of springs, rollers and caps . You will need following items .
1. An oil sump gasket. ( do NOT try to use RTV)
2. A Clutch cover gasket.
3. Left side cover gasket.
4. A tube of YAMABOND ( much better than RTV)
5. All of the items can be purchased at xj4ever on upper right corner if the page.
6. A good set of Torx sockets.
7. A good set of Allen sockets.
8. 10mm,12mm, a 30mm sockets , a rubber mallet, an impact driver)
9. Tube of blue and red locktite ..( they have different strength properties.. do NOT ignore this).
10. I used a shipping pallet this worked great as it ensured I could flip engine with no chance of damaging engine if it were on the ground.
11. A large cardboard box draw a pattern of engine with a sharpie marker, as each bolt is removed put these where they go onto the position on your diaphragm ( this keeps the bolts in their position, as some are longer).
12. Several large ziploc baggies a tote or large box to hold parts like clutch , flywheel etc .
13. Once you have all the fasteners top and bottom removed , clutch and flywheel removed, final drive unit and the three torx fasteners removed , and rotor removed. This is where the rubber mallet is used ..DO NOT USE A HAMMER THERE IS A DIFFERENCE IN TOOLS) IF you pry with a screwdriver only do so carefully you do not want to mar the mating surface. Carefully lift the bottom case off , try not to disturb the drive bearings and be aware there are some half lock rings .
14. Carefully pull the rotor shaft out there are three torx screws that have to be pulled first , this is why the rotor has to be removed.
15. Once the shaft is removed ,the starter clutch can be removed from the chain .
....CAUTION do NOT disturb the crank with no tension you can cause the timing to skip ( don't ask me how I know about this )
16. Be careful the oil spray nozzle and be removed ( just dont forget to put it back in).
17. Now you can tear into the starter clutch, there are three Allen head bolts that are stacked in place , I put mine a vise with rubber bumpers
And used an impact to remove bolts.
18. Remove the roller one at a time and the cap and spring, note how they came apart as you will reassemble same way .
19. Reinstall the drive gear , put red locktite on the bolts and using an inch pound torque wrench torque to required torque ( can't recall exact figure, look it up in manual) stake the bolts in place with a hammer and punch.
20. Now you can reassemble engine , once starter clutch is back in , put oil spray nozzle back in be careful of the guide pin it can easily be broke off.
21. Put rotor shaft back in and put cover back in place , use blue locktite on three torx bolts , again stake them in place.
22. Apply a light coat of Yamabond on engine upper engine case .
23. I used .020 safety wire and looped it in place to keep the shift drum in place with the fork and lowered bottom case in place , and pulled wire out just before pushing case in place .
24. Now you can start putting bolts back in place and leave the all loose until you get the final drive back in place and the four shims back in place and the three torx bolts back in with red locktite and torqued in place and stacked in place.
25. Once all bolts are installed torque all in place , you can reinstall the flywheel and clutch basket and put the clutch cover gasket and put on clutch cover ( I should add if the clutch plates need renewed now is time to do this) .
26. Put on oil sump with new gasket , I usually coat both sides with grease , this will allow you if you have to ever pull it off to keep damaging the gasket .
27. Please note the procedure I listed is ONLY if you are not replacing the chain guide if yours is breaking up , then the cams and head will need removed . I got lucky on both on my engines the chain guide was in good condition.
28. This all sounds challenging, but honestly tearing down takes about an hour in half and about two to three hours to reassemble.

All in with gaskets, repair kit , Yamabond, loctite, ( I already had torx sockets, Allen sockets , inch pound torque wrench) ( you can get most tools from Harbor freight) . You will be around 200$ . This may seem excessive but I'm my opinion is not bad and the satisfaction that you did this yourself priceless .



20.
P

 

Thanks so much for the post. I ordered a starter rebuild kit, so when I get that all done I'll try again.

On a side note, can I call this guy xj4ever to place an order?

 

His name is Len. You can contact him on info@xj4ever.com for the parts you need.

 

NO just IM him he replies quickly his catalog is YUGE he sells both orginal and pattern parts . It can be a little time consuming but his catalog is split up by category. All the parts I have ordered have been spot on , yes some are on the pricey side ...BUT THE OLD ADAGE BUY THE BEST AND CRY ONCE . Applies I have bought some parts off of eBay that did not fit and were not useable . Len stands by his parts .