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1982 XJ750J Maxim - Budget Bike Project

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by Fr0st99, Jun 19, 2014.

  1. Fr0st99

    Fr0st99 New Member

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    This is the introduction to the next few weeks, months, possibly years of my schooling, social life and splurging abilities. I've been riding for almost 8 years, mostly street bikes and have decided there are more important things in life than speed.

    Obviously, style.

    So I jumped on Craigslist.com in search of a bike that was fully functional but relatively cheap since I'll be working with a tight budget. I ended up riding home a few days later on my "new to me" 1982 XJ750J Maxim.

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    Now, as I mentioned I'm working on a rather tight budget and even less mechanical/automotive skills. I'm walking into this the same way I walk into a Casino; Knowing how much I'm willing to lose and still walk away smiling. If in the end I come out on top then it's "Winner Winner Chicken Dinner!"
     
  2. Fr0st99

    Fr0st99 New Member

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    So first thing I did after looking at hundreds of yamaha projects online is rip out the air box (had to completely destroy it) and install cone filters. Then I read online all the negative effects they have on these bikes after joining this forum page. But they look so shiny!

    This bike won't be a daily driver so fingers crossed it won't cause too many problems.

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  3. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    that's too bad
     
  4. Metal_Bob

    Metal_Bob Active Member

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    STOP RIDING

    Take off the rear brake cover and make sure the brake pad has not delaminated (many posts about it here) - It could save your life.

    Does the bike have the original brake lines (dated with year of manufacture). They may work (for now) but were only meant to last 4 years.

    You may regret the cones, but enjoy if you are sucessful in the end!

    Before you make any other mods, fix all the safetly issues that a 30 year old bike probably has as well as change the fluids.

    Short list of things to do:
    Check valve clearances and replace out of spec shims - step 1 before adjusting the carbs (especially after you installed the cones).
    Change fluids.
    Bleed brakes and change lines as soon as you can.
    send me that backrest assembly for free. :)
    update the fuse panel - cheap project and better than being broken down because of worn out fuse holders
    many other projects that people with better memories will suggest.

    Chacal (user here) sells 99% of the available parts you could need for your bike as fair prices. xj4ever link above is also him.

    P.S. My xj750j is in a few pieces but someday we may meet :)
     
  5. Fr0st99

    Fr0st99 New Member

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    Next up was to remove the old handlebars, gauges and square light. I like the aggressive look and feel of leaning forward while riding so I went with drag bars. I got these off JC Whitney for 20 bucks.

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    The clearance issue came up with the choke so I removed it from the hand control and relocated it to the battery case under the seat. Worked out rather nicely.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Fr0st99

    Fr0st99 New Member

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    Awesome advice and thank you for the reply. To touch on a few things you mentioned:

    The back rest was removed as part of the price negotiation with the PO. It never made it's way home with me. If it had I would be packing it up to send your way.
    The brake lines do appear to be original. The bike won't be moving much during it's transformation so I'm not worried about them failing. My wish list for parts already includes a new front end with controls, lines, etc.
    I've been messaging Chacal to see if he has a few parts I'm looking for and will at the fuse box to the list.
    Ah the fun stuff - adjusting carbs, valve clearance, things I know nothing about. Here is where I'm going to rely heavily on the forum members so I apologize in advance if I ask a lot of tedious and "stupid" questions over the next few chapters of my project. :D
     
  7. Krafty

    Krafty Member

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    Sounds like you've got a handle on things for the most part, just remember to save some of your budget for any unexpected issues you may have to deal with when you get to working on the carbs, and don't forget about your rear brakes.

    depending on how much sitting / overly excessive use you may want to consider putting in a clutch if you notice any slipping when you get back to riding it. my 750 seca's clutch would slip a bit when passing in the higher rpms, always thought it felt sluggish on acceleration any other time too. put in a new clutch this winter and now it is a whole new animal, makes me glad I went over all the brake components last year.

    btw nice touch on the choke lever location.
     
  8. Orange-n-Black

    Orange-n-Black Well-Known Member

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    Did you rejet the carbs for the pods? Do you still have the airbox boots?
    You may need them to velocity stack the pods. Check out the pod success thread in my signature for jet formulas.
    How many miles on this bike? You'll need to check the valves to make sure they are within tolerance before you start messing with the carbs. Tuning these CV Carbs are a PITA with a normal setup, tuning with pods is worse. Can be done, but you'll have to be patient and take it slow.
     
  9. Fr0st99

    Fr0st99 New Member

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    So far I have not done any work to the carbs/jets. I destroyed the box while trying to remove it however I did keep the boots thinking they might be useful later down the road. I actually saw a video where someone used the boots and filter sheets instead of pods.

    The bike has 14k miles on it. I have a feeling when it comes down to it I'll have to bring the bike to someone that knows what they are doing so they can check out the carbs and tune it.
     
  10. Fr0st99

    Fr0st99 New Member

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    A few more parts came in the mail.
    I ordered new gauges from Dime City Cycles and I have to say I think they look amazing. I can't give a review of the quality and functionality yet as I haven't fully installed them but I love the cosmetics. I think I paid about 120 for the set.
    I also received a set of Biltwell grips. $19
    And Emgo 325mm rear classic shocks. $88

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    The gauges are just mock mounted. I need to modify the risers I used because the cover the mount holes in the triple tree for the gauges. I also need to get a look at the wiring diagram for the bike so I can get them working.

    I'm still searching for a 7" round headlamp that will mount to the stock bracket and help conceal the wiring up front. Anyone have one for sale or know an OEM make/model that fits what I'm looking for let me know please.
     
  11. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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  12. Fr0st99

    Fr0st99 New Member

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    Just looked through your gallery and the light looks good with a moderately cheap price tag. I'll keep it as an option. Maybe after I look through the wiring diagram I can eliminate most of the cluster that I won't be using. If that's possible I won't have to worry so much about stuffing the headlamp assembly.
     
  13. Fr0st99

    Fr0st99 New Member

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    By keeping it in mind I mean I just ordered one. Haha

    If for some reason it doesn't work for me I'll throw it up on ebay or sell it here. Thanks for the link!
     
  14. Bigshankhank

    Bigshankhank Active Member

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    I dunno about where DCC gets their gauges made, but the same ones I got years back from JC Whitney lasted me about a year before the needles started jumping and bouncing.
     
  15. xjwebb

    xjwebb Member

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    Did you have to buy new cables when you did the handle bar swap. Also could you explain more on the choke relocation. I had the same trouble with my coke hitting the tank when I installed drag bars. So I took them back off
     
  16. Fr0st99

    Fr0st99 New Member

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    I'm still currently using all stock cables. They are longer than desired but I plan on swapping the front end eventually and don't feel the need to replace the cables until that time. After I install the headlamp that I ordered I'll take a pic of how I have the cables set up to look as best as possible.

    For the choke there are two small screws inside the switch housing that attach it to the controls. After it's free I looped the cable back under the tank towards the battery box. All the excess cable is hidden under the tank. I attached the choke switch to the box with small bolts that have tapered/flat heads (I think they were the kinda that come with butterfly clips that you usually use in drywall) They were very long so after I secured them with nuts on the inside of the box I cut the excess length off. Not sure if you can see it in the picture but I put a small piece of cardboard between the battery and the box to make sure the bolts didn't damage the battery. I hope this helps. If you have anymore questions let me know.
     
  17. xjwebb

    xjwebb Member

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    Thank you for the info. I'll be relocating my choke tomorrow. Thanks for the info.
     
  18. Fr0st99

    Fr0st99 New Member

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    Still waiting on the headlight to come in so I can get back to work on this guy. How did the choke relocation go?
     
  19. Fr0st99

    Fr0st99 New Member

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    This headlight came in the mail the other day. Not a bad deal. $65 plus shipping. From a test fit standpoint it looks pretty good. Happy with the size. The backing is plastic but for the price I can't complain. I haven't wired it in yet since time has been short but I snapped a few pics of what It'll look like when things are said and done.

    I am in need of the wiring diagram for this bike so I can wire in the new gauges (gas, signal, neutral indicators..)

    Let me know what you guys think. It's starting to make me smile :-D

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  20. bensalf

    bensalf Well-Known Member

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