82' 750 Resurrection

Finally have some time to upload some pics.

Engine is now fully painted black. Valve head, cylinder jugs, starter motor and the engine case itself. Those areas masked off are covers that I will either polish or eventually paint depending on how I decide the final design.

I've made the decision to take the frame and some other parts to be sand blasted. There is just too much rust for me to remove myself and I would like for the entire surface to be cleaned properly before paint.

In the meantime I will be gathering my final lists of parts to order from Chacal. One thing I cannot seem to find is the torque specs on for the main head studs and the smaller studs on the valve head. Anyone have that handy?

Also is is recommended to use gasket sealant when applying new main gaskets? Or just apply the gasket itself?

 

Frame and triple tree parts are back from sandblasting! They look great. A little cleanup on my end and they will be set for paint. I've also cleaned up both the center stand and side stand for painting.

I still cannot locate torque specs for the cylinder head-to-crankcase LONG STUDS or cylinder jugs-to-upper crankcase MOUNTING STUDS (According to Chacal's inventory).

Now I have a Haynes manual but there is no indication for the actual studs, just the nuts. Help is appreciated!

 

Seems to me that when you torque the nut on a stud, the same torque is applied to the stud-to-blind hole end. Maybe that is why there is no separate spec. My thinking may be terribly wrong though.

 

That is my original thought too, but want to make sure

 

Don't take my word for it, use your Google-Fu or wait for someone else to chime in.
Found this video using studs when replacing a head:

 

Interesting and good video!

My google-fu so far showed 10mm studs are from 15-22 ft-lbs MAX torque. So there may be some truth in the video above for just setting them past hand tight, then torque the nuts to manual specs

 

Hello everyone! Been a while since I posted last, hope you all are staying safe!

Bike progress got pushed back a little but I have been getting back to work on it.

Some more parts have arrived including my main gasket set.

My last post included some parts that went off for sand blasting, I have since painted the frame, triple tree and the stands.

I also re-installed all the valves and dove into the clutch side to take a look. Seems I will need new friction plates.

I will flip the engine over and take off the oil pan cover to inspect this week. Clean out any gunk if I find any.

Seems now I just need to order my piston ring set, circlips, crush washers, alignment dowels, friction plate kit etc. to get the engine put back together!

 

Just peruse this thread.......from start to finish........nice job Brandon......

 

Huge order with Chacal has been placed, parts arriving Monday!

I was able to get the oil pan off, clean out the gunk and all gasket surfaces.

Finally ready to start putting this all back together

 

Test fitting my gaskets and not really sure if these are actually correct...which I'd be pretty mad about. Thoughts?

Also which studs get the plastic sheathing? Is it the front 5 studs? Going from Cyl 1 to end of 3?

 

Took some serious time today and built the engine up!

All new hardware from Chacal for the top end, thanks! Piston rings, dowels, studs, sheathing etc.

Top end is all torqued down and ready to install the camshafts. Once installed I will double check the valve clearances (new shims).

Still need to strip the valve cover and paint...

 

Ok got the camshafts installed and began checking the valve clearances.....

So I measured when I first tore down the engine and wrote down all the info. Purchased new shims that were needed based on those measurements.

Now I have like 2 that are within spec...prime example intake/exhaust for cyl 1 did not get new shims. Measuring now exhaust is the same as before and on the intake side there is no clearance....

Not sure if I installed the camshafts improperly or if I completely measured wrong to begin with...

I am tempted to pull the cams and re-install then measure again. Or should I assume I did it wrong the first time and now need all new shims?

 

did you mix up intake and exhaust cams?

I see you lapped the valves that would change shim clearances too

 

Cams are in their correct spots (went and double checked). I would feel real dumb if I did that

Yes valves have been lapped, didn't account for that to change clearances.

Guess best option would be to verify all valve clearances now and need to swap/order all new shims. Most of them have no clearance so this should be fun.

I saw somewhere that Hogfiddles does shim swaps?

 

They got an I and E stamped on them

 

yes Hogfiddles runs the shim pool.

 

What is the bolt sheathing for and what is it made of?

 

From what I've read it helps with vibration noise. You can either put it on there or not, decided to add it back since it was there originally.

I am guessing its high temp thick shrink wrap, though I saw some just use regular shrink wrap on all studs (minus the outer studs on 1 and 4)

 

I am working on my engine so I will put some of this on too.

 

Been slacking on the photo uploads and progress updates.

Received some shims in from Hogfiddles and swapped them in. Turns out I still need another for Cyl 1 Intake side as it only had 0.04mm clearance with a 2.60mm shim. According to the chart, a 2.50mm shim should fix this.

Still trying to source that last shim, but not stopping me from moving forward with assembly.

Cleaned up and painted the valve cover, alternator cover, rear brake drum, side covers etc. All have been installed (minus valve cover) with polishing all bolts.

Engine back in the frame! Remembered to place that airbox in first.

Torqued all the mounting bolts appropriately. I am missing 2 bolts for the front upper engine mount (triangle mount), will need to order from Chacal.

Triple-tree installed with clean bearings and new grease. No play up/down and turning easily.

I added the original forks back with the front wheel just to get it on it's center stand. I have a new/used pair that I still need to rebuild.

Last item yesterday was installing the handlebar hardware and the bar just to see how it all looks.


My plan is to get the swing arm, old suspension (will be buying new shocks) and rear wheel on today. Move into installing the new clutch and closing up that side.