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82' 750 Resurrection

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Brandon Spencer, Oct 8, 2019.

  1. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Been moving right along with getting the bike built up. Swing arm is now in, temp front end built ect.

    Found some more parts I needed and placed an order with Chacal.

    Now today I got the carb rack in and was working with the airbox boots (what a pain). I think the boots I have are not for a Seca...they seem to be too long and do not allow for the box to sit forward enough for the screw holes.

    Can't seem to find any on Ebay while I know Chacal has aftermarket ones. Thoughts?

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  2. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    the air boots have an orentation that little tab on top fits into 2 tabs on air box

    750 maxim and seca use the same boots
     
  3. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Are those tabs locating just inside the box? There are none on the outside for the rubber tab to fit into

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  4. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    1. The little rubber nub on top of the boot should be oriented at the top of the airbox hole. If the two indexing bumps have broken if, it doesn’t matter.... just center the nub at 12:00.

    2. Have you pushed the airbox all the way forward and tightened the mounting bolts?

    3. Do NOT grease them. The airbox boots need a DRY fit onto the carbs..... otherwise they will slide off when you tighten the clamps
     
  5. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    No grease used, only heat to make them soft.


    At this point the box is all the way forward and the nubs are just inside. I cannot seem to get them to go flush, I may need to just purchase all new ones as these are pretty stiff...

    Also got your shim and clearance is good! Posting pics in a bit
     
  6. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    Gotta get that lip to the outside. The airbox surface sits in the groove between the lips
     
  7. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    I will give it another shot!
     
  8. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    My final shim came in from Hogfiddles and now all valves are in spec!

    Closed up the top end with a new valve cover gasket and fresh bolt seals.

    Moved onto installing the exhaust today, new hardware kit worked like a charm from Chacal.

    Hope to get this thing fired up this week once wire harness is back in :)

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  9. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Parts in from Chacal and eBay!

    Threw on some of those along with new oil filter o-ring, filter and bolt. New engine oil and final drive oil in!

    Reading through another post I realized I over torqued the swing arm; inch pounds vs. ft pounds. So pulled entire swing arm off and checked everything over, all good. Re-installed and torqued to proper specs this time.

    Now in the pic below when I pulled parts off originally I placed this 3" spacer and washer(?) together with the rear axle. Now I assume the spacer goes into the hub of the final drive unit for the axle, no idea about the washer though. I do not see it in any parts diagrams...not sure if PO added it or if it actually belongs somewhere.

    Jumped the starter to listen to the engine turning over, sounds nice and smooth.

    Working on those airbox boots and getting the wire harness in tomorrow!


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  10. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Well went ahead and got the wire harness in and hooked everything up to get her to run!

    She's alive! A bit rough with the airbox not hooked up but it runs!

    Reached out to Chacal to solve the boot issue and turns out I have boots for a 650 (they are longer and are angled). So ordered a correct 750 set

    Need to clean up my work area and begin work on the forks, brakes and headlight.

    Later today I will do a warm compression test to see what my numbers are. Bike started without any start fluid and minimum choke. Had to adjust idle and fuel mix a little to get all cylinders to run.

    Youtube Link -
     
  11. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Ok so got it warmed up and performed compression test...

    Cyl 1 - 105
    Cyl 2 - 105
    Cyl 3 - 120
    Cyl 4 - 105

    Not too siked about these numbers since they are lower than when I first got the bike...not sure if the new rings need time to seat in properly for a good seal (gaps where all checked before install)

    Maybe I fudged up the ring orientation? Gaps facing particular ways, the manual does not explain that one so had to do some research.

    Checked and I have no oil leaks at any of the gasket surfaces.

    I am certain that my timing is right but can always tear the cover off and triple check...

    On another note I noticed that Cyl 3 and 4 where not firing all the time and were receiving too much air. Covered carbs with hand and they jumped to life. Hoping once my airbox boots get in that it will solve that issue. Obviously need to to a proper carb sync as well.
     
  12. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Mail call from Len (Chacal) from Monday! New airbox boots are in and my my what a difference! So now I have a set of 650 boots to get rid of.

    Pulled the carbs off to do another bench sync and got her fired up. Struggling to obtain idle and 3,4 are not firing all the time. Turning the mixture screw back a bit seemed to help but I feel they are still getting too much air.

    Decided it was time to take them back to the Church of Clean and actually replace my throttle shaft seals..I know I know...

    Overall they were in decent shape. 1 seal on carb 2 and 4 were beat up/cracked. Replacement parts coming in hot from Len!

    Working on cleaning up the front wiring and getting the rear brake shoes installed today.

    Have parts for my front calipers/brakes coming in next week.

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  13. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Chacal does it again! New throttle shaft seals and screws for the butterfly valves (Upgraded to the stainless button head ones).

    Threw the new seals in and checked over the carbs. Performed a proper bench sync with instructions from Gamuru.

    Reset all mixture screws to 2.5 turns out and back into the bike they went.

    Half choke got her running, only on 1 & 2 until I opened #2 sync screw up a little more. Spiked up to just below 4K RPM but was steady. Backed down the idle screw and got her to idle just at 1K. Confirmed that all 4 are now firing and after revving up she returns to idle quickly.

    Sounds so good now!

    Rear brake shoes installed, snapped the cinch bolt to hold the actuating lever arm (new list begins). Front calipers have been stripped and painted, new brakes and lines are in but waiting on caliper rebuild kit.

    Next steps are moving towards the forks and eventually the tank situation

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  14. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Alright, so I gave the fork set I got from a member a good cleaning and looked them over. Not leaking and seals look pretty new. Spring bounces back nicely and so forth. For now I am going to keep them as is and give them a rebuild possibly during the winter.

    Still waiting on parts to come in for my calipers so front brakes are still on hold.

    Onto the tank...

    I knew this would be an undertaking but totally doable. RUST lots of rust, on the outside and inside. Dings and dents which all can be repaired with bondo.

    Stripped the paint and got to work with removing the built up rust with a wire wheel. Moved to 150 grit sand paper once that was done and shes actually cleaning up. Had to order some supplies to make this job easier so that should be here in a few days.

    Inside of the tank will be flushed with evapo-rust then coated with the POR-15 tank sealant. Before that step I need to plug the pinholes I found on various locations. Should be able to do this with a solder weld.

    I am going to change the color to a different Yamaha paint code; Yamaha Kingston Grey

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  15. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Tank progress is going well!

    I was able to solder weld all of the visible pin holes and sand back the solder. More showed up once Evapo-rust was added and went to work. All were located and sealed!

    Evapo-Rust is amazing stuff, cleaned out the entire tank after letting it sit for over a day. Rinsed out the tank and dried quickly with a heat gun.

    Poured the POR-15 tank sealant in and worked it around. Now need to let the tank sit for 3 days before attempting to add fuel, which we are not there just yet.

    My caliper rebuild kit finally arrived so I assembled those and looking to get them installed tomorrow. Also gave the inside of the rotors a fresh paint job.

    I have a new list for the legend Chacal for tank parts and other items. Plan for remainder of the week is to get the front brake situation finalized.

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  16. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    lead body work is becoming a lost art
     
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  17. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Been doing electrical soldering forever, first time trying it for body repair work. A bit different but it came out nice. I'll add some pics of the welds
     
  18. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Well RIP my left front caliper...I had suspicions that it was damaged and probably would not work/be safe on the bike.

    20200619_091707.jpg

    Wasn't 100% clear until I mounted it and noticed how wobbly it was...right side caliper was NOT this way.

    YouTube Link to feast your eyes on:

    Anyway, decided to take some pictures of the progress for changing out the brake pads and hardware.

    Replace the rubber grommets for the slide pin, add shim plate back to slide pin block, U shape spring goes in first, add shim to one pad which will go against the piston, add other pad and insert pin, attach slide block with slide pin and secure with new cotter pin, secure pad pin with new cotter pin.

    I used brake quiet lubrication for the shim areas and the spring.

    Luckily I found a LH caliper on Ebay and snagged it, have not seen one available for a while.

    Decided I am not going to keep the function of the Anti-dive and added the blocking bolts to my Chacal order. Also looks like I spoke too soon about my forks not leaking, and well now they are leaking...so add that to the list :)

    Attached the RH caliper and new brake line. Performed a reverse-bleed with syringe and tested the brake. Works as it should! Now this will all need to be re-done once the LH caliper arrives but it's nice to finally have a front brake.

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  19. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    More parts from Chacal have arrived and I took a deep dive into my forks today (pun intended).

    Cleaned every part and found I have one wrong oil seal spacer washer that sits under the oil seal for one of the forks. Salvaged the correct one from the original fork set. Both of the washers that are apart of the anti-dive system on the damper rod for each fork were mangled beyond saving. So need to order 2 of each before re-assembling. There is a washer that sits on top of the oil seal before the oil seal clip, those I will also be replacing since they are pitted.

    I will be doing a full new write up on renewing the forks for the 81-83 Seca Series. This includes what you get in the rebuild kit from Chacal. There are a ton more parts in there that could be useful if they have pictures to go along with.

    My plan is to get the forks wrapped up this week so I can focus on the major piece; Gas Tank

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  20. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    FYI, there’s already a number of write-ups on the forks......but you’re welcome to do It anyway.....
     
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