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A Good Point of Reference $$$

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by patmac6075, Apr 22, 2016.

  1. patmac6075

    patmac6075 Active Member

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    Ok, I figured I'd post this up for those in the near future looking to get their XJ roadworthy....for starters, this is where I began: http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/new-build-xj550-seca.85892/ , physically, the bike looks no different (well that's not completely true...it has new tires and a SS brake line) today than it did when I took delivery.
    From start to finish I: 1. Changed oil and filter 2. Clearanced the valves 3. added new valve cover gasket and pressure washers 4. completely rebuilt carbs (total disassembly/cleaning and all new parts) 5. completely rebuilt front brake hydraulics with all new parts and pads 6. Replaced rear brake shoes 7. New air filter 8. And finally, new tires.
    Total cost for parts alone....just north of $900. Now there are many things that still should/could be replaced like wheel bearings, headset, front springs and seals, rear shocks, swingarm bearings....and on and on... but my point is $900 should be considered the minimum cost to get your "barn find" bike back on the road.
    Keep in mind the old racers adage "You can go fast, You can go safe, You can go cheap......but you can only pick two!"
     
  2. Jetfixer

    Jetfixer Well-Known Member

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    Agree .. I paid 850 for mine new tires, brakes, Carb parts, Tank sealer, New modern fuse block, Spin on oil filter kit, valve cover gasket, shims More $$$ to go, BUT still cheaper than a "New " Bike I would end up making a payment IE New Bolt 7700 + or Harley $$$$$ period . I like working on old bikes period I have done up several over the years I usually pay high dump a bunch of money into it and sell low. :confused: I like your last statement "You can go fast, You can go safe, You can go cheap......but you can only pick two!" That says it all!!!:)
     
  3. yellow_yellow

    yellow_yellow Member

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    Very good info.
    $900 is just shy of what I paid for my 81 550 Seca ($950) which i'm still working on getting on the road.
    It's crazy how costs just creep up. I've already bought carb rebuild kits, valve shims, and other misc stuff. I'm sure rear brake shoes will be next when I get around to checking them out this weekend.
     
  4. Jetfixer

    Jetfixer Well-Known Member

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    Yes , but when you do get it going WHOOO you will feel like your on top of the world!!!
     
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  5. Yardawg

    Yardawg Active Member

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    I've done just about exactly the same things to my 82 750maxim with the addition of quite a few o5het things. SE were not absolutely necessary but I did them to upgrade since I was I'm deep anyway. Lol. I've got about $2000 in so far and that includes the $400 I paid initially for the bike. Still need a few things like brake lines
     
  6. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    Keeping track of money is for accountants and wives
     
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  7. Jetfixer

    Jetfixer Well-Known Member

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    Haha well said Polock !!!!!
     
  8. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    only repair parts should be considered for the cost to make road worthy. Tires,brake shoes and pads, oil changes, plugs are part of yearly or bi yearly expenses to ride.
    shims, gaskets, seals, wheel bearings, head stock bearings mc and caliper rebuild kits are part of repair costs, of course in the end it is all maintance costs due to lack of it from PO,
    I spent 1200+ on Maxim, now the expense is just the things that need to be replaced ans time and bike moves forward.
    tires chain oil and filters rebuild caliper and mc when it needs new pads or every 3 years by manual.

    the cheapest way to do it is concentrate on motor and safety items ride it, and then start repainting replacing cosmetics. you can polish the aluminium thats labor (mostly) while waiting on critical parts. I can see repainting tank also. but full strip and restore of bike before you even get the motor running can get costly.
     
  9. yellow_yellow

    yellow_yellow Member

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    Definitely. There are a few cosmetic flaws (crack in front fendor, spots on paint by fuel tank, decals peeling on rear cowl) that I keep reminding myself aren't important to fix. At least not until winter.
     
  10. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    you can paint the caliper and master cylinder when rebuilding as well as any switches you take off to fix that makes sense to me.
    remember about paint is if you are restoring paint you want to use factory colors and paint.
    if you are just refurbishing bike any paint will do, factory paint restore will bring a little more money from the right buyer
     
  11. Yardawg

    Yardawg Active Member

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    I didn't consider cosmetics at all on mine. Just been concentrating on mechanical correctness and reliability
     
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  12. patmac6075

    patmac6075 Active Member

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    Ha ha.....gotta love ya Polock! Since I was doing this work for someone else it made it easy to keep track of where the money was going. It's quite interesting to note how nothing was terribly expensive, everything was between $30 and $50 mostly, but it adds up quickly. And for me it always seems to be "as long as I'm doing this....I might as well just do that!" Pretty soon I've just spent $300!
     
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  13. yellow_yellow

    yellow_yellow Member

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    Exactly Pat. Like doing the valves. After 4 or 5 new shims, new gasket, and maybe rubber donuts it's quickly a +$100 job.
     
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  14. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Burbon. Moderator Premium Member

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  15. skiprrdog

    skiprrdog Active Member

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    Its all about the money, and/or some sort of Asian two wheel inspired mental illness.

    drugs.jpg
     
  16. jayrodoh

    jayrodoh YimYam Premium Member

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    Great description! I rode a ton of smaller bikes when I was younger but it wasn't until I bought my 75 Z1 900 that I was hooked for life. First bike I ever had that I couldn't handle twisting the throttle all the way.
     

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