Acewell install weirdness

So i've got everything hooked up and running correctly, except for twp things:

Oil level light stays on all the time, and I don't get anything but a very faint quick flash of the Neutral light when shifting to neutral.

Both of these are LED's on the bottom of the Acewell, both are ground switched (good ground turns the LED on)

These both worked fine on the old Atari last year. There's nothing that I can see in the wiring diagram that would suggest I've got this hooked up wrong.

I'm using the B/R in the headlight bucket for the oil level and Sb (Skyblue) for the neutral light.

My neutral light ohms out to varying levels when tested (weird, it worked last year) and the level lead reads complete to ground. I DO have oil in it lol

Could I just have 2 bad sensors after sitting for 5 months?

Thanx guys!

 

Neutral light one could be due to the LEDs not drawing as much current as bulbs, can get weird faults where the bulb "forces" a bad connection to work :?

Are you sure the oil level is working the right "way round" i.e. the sensor doesn't make contact with oil & break contact without?

 

I'll have to recheck the oil level line, but I think I realized why the neutral wasn't working.

It's actually being fed 12V from the starter safety circuit, so i'm probably going to have to disconnect the skyblue wire from the safety circuit, to get it to work right (only getting the ground from the switch).

I could just remove the safety all together, as I always rely on being in neutral whenever I start the bike anyways. BUT I do have to make sure it WILL start with clutch in, in gear, in case I stall in traffic for any reason.


That oil level being on all the time really bothers me tho, i'll have to pull the sensor next oil change if it doesn't start to behave properly.

 

Not sure I get you on the neutral light getting it's 12v from the safety circuit, the brown wire should be it's +12v from the signal fuse surely, sky blue is earth when the neutral switch closes?

If you have +12v coming "back down" the sky blue from the safety circuit maybe a diode is bad?

 

I'm not using the Atari anymore tho, so it doesn't get 12v from Br. (As it's disconnected) This is why i thought it work as a proper ground switch, until i saw the side stand can send 12v to it as well.

I just realized I was saying the wrong relay too. It's coming from the sidestand relay, NOT the safety start relay.

 

Ok so i changed the oil yesterday, and dropped the oil level switch while empty. It does have a rattle to it, so i'm assuming it's not gummed up. There's no way to open the copper bit as it's soldered on the cap, but i did try to get some seafaom in there to loosen stuff up.

It didn't jiggle, or move any more than it did when i took it out, so i figured it would be ok. Stuck it in, filled her up with oil and, still get a constant light. So i don't know what the hell is going on with that.

The neutral switch i got working by using the gear select LCD display instead of the green N LED. The switch would measure anywhere from 200ohms to 200k ohms when in neutral, and it would jump just sitting there. So the LED was out of the question, but the other option works perfectly.

So now I just have to figure out wth is up with this oil level float.

 

Strange, on my RK diagram it shows the neutral light getting +12v from the brown, which is direct from the signal fuse. Then the sky blue should technically "act like" a proper earth through the sidestand switch unless a diode went bad?

 

The Seca oil switch works the wrong way around. Closed when you have oil.

Any other switch will work correctly.

 

That's why I thought you were going to test the switch when it was empty of oil, to see if it worked backwards? Thought I mentioned doing that in the other thread? What happened there? :?

 

Why didn't you just check to see if the light had gone out after you drained the oil instead of removing it?

 

Figured i'd just pull it and be done with it. 30 Years of no service told me it may just need a good cleaning. Not a huge deal, I always check the sight glass anyways, now if the light goes out i may have to check it

 

You could still do the relay thing to reverse the signal until you get another & it comes oil time again I guess? Or like you say, just worry if the light goes out... (I guess it's more failsafe than the original way, if the bulb goes you worry, stop & check!)

 

Just to confirm, the switch does operate backwards. (Closed when level ok, open when low)

I've got a very slow leak from my valve cover gasket (those rubber donuts don't last long) and the level has come down far enough that the switch actuated (oil light went OUT) when accelerating hard last night.

Just wanted to post a conformation here for future people looking for info.