Adding a SECA 650 back to my collection...

Merry Christmas to All!

Thanks Hogfiddles!........ A little MEK on a Q-tip, a small piece of scotchbrite, a good bit of scrubbing, DONE! Steering stem is clear for the bearings!

Although most are enjoying the Christmas Holiday with family and friends and worrying little about motorcycles, I'm spending a bunch of time (between visitors) making progress with the rebuild.

Completed the basic checks and got the motor back together.

• TDC checked out properly and the marker agrees with the dial indicator.
• A mild valve lapping showed good results (before & after shown).
• New valve seals installed
• Valve clearance all checked and only one valve (E4) needed a 275 vs the original 270
• Skipping the alternator, starter, and etc to keep the weight down for the install.

Now.......I've got to chase down all the nuts, bolts, etc. Normally, I'm ultra-organized but the garage is getting a little crowed with Yamahas and I've dispersed all the parts here, there, and everywhere. If I can find a few missing bolts I'll get the neighbor and my son to help me put the motor in the frame.

Since the wiring harness is completely out there is no better time than now to clean all the connectors..... that's gonna take some time.

Hope you are all enjoying your holiday! I am!

Sincerely,
KURT

P.S. If you're interested in Attending the Vintage Yamaha Rally - REGISTER WITH IRON HORSE NOW!!!!

 

Michigan Motorcycle Junkyard found.
Last week, I was on a business trip to Northern Michigan. Found a motorcycle junk yard within two miles of the Hampton Inn I was staying at...


Unfortunately, there's not much left of this ole' girl........ Somewhere (buried in the snow) the owner thinks there is another one of these. I couldn't find it and time was limited.

For those in at region, the owner was a real nice guy and I suspect his prices would be reasonable. Quite a few Yamaha's in this yard.
Snowmobile & Motorcycle Salvage, Inc.
4101 E. River Road
Mt. Pleasant, Michigan 48858
989-772-3442

 

Ooooh, it has a pine needle box!

 

XJ Bikes Friends,
Although the SECA is far from restored and far from complete.... The engine rebuild was completely successful!

Bike started on the first push of the starter and ran pretty good. Unfortunately, I've got a stuck #3 float so the carbs gotta' come out again....Not a big deal...

Very Very Happy New Year the bike is coming along.....One more rescued from the garbage heap!


Movies are pretty crappy but ya' can sort of hear that characteristic Jet Fighter sound of the SECA mill.....
Lots of oil in the cylinders from the ring job and rebuild.......



KURT

 

I'd like just a corner of your garage to work in! Mine looks more like the Michigan junkyard, only not as warm!

 

Kosel,
Thank you.... I think. Honestly, it is very nice in many ways, but its not as wide open and roomy as I would like. I think I have too many motorcycles (if that's possible ?) There's actually another XS11 bike-in-process outside under a bike cover.

Thank you, and everyone else also, for keeping any eye on my progress with this machine...... Never had my original '82 SECA apart and don't have even one photo of it. My expertise, if any, revolves primarily around the XS/XJ1100. Catch me if I screw up as I want to make this as close as possible to a "RESTORATION" vs. a Resto-Mod.

Sincerely,
KURT

 

RE: The never (or very rarely) performed important routine maintenance item!

XJ Folks,
Now that I am certain the motor is good it's time to address all the other stuff, and there is a bunch of it. My SECA's forks are pitted & rusty so the seals will get munched in a mile or two. I managed to get a good deal on a nice set from Evil-Bay and I'm starting the process of cleaning them, refilling them properly, and tossing the pitted ones.

As the owner of several Vintage Yamaha's I've yet to acquire a single bike where the fork oil appeared to have been even moderately well maintained. These old girls will never handle like an R1, R6 or an FJR with their OEM equipment but they sure as heck feel nicer riding them and they will last longer when the components are properly maintained!

The photo shows how much "Oil" (AKA MUDD!) was removed from FOUR (2-Pair) of XJ650RJ forks. Wholly cow! Does ANYONE maintain these units?


Now, some important questions I hope ya'll can answer:

• How much oil are ya'll XJ650RJ riders running in your tubes?
• The manual I have indicates 230ml and that sounds about right?
• Are you using 10 or 15? A combination?
• What was the stock oil weight? My manual(s) do not indicate.

Typically, I run about 20ml higher than spec on all of my XS11's and use 10w as that's provided the best overall performance.....

Thanks in advance for any information or comments.
Kurt

 

No.

1982 XJ650RJ Seca: 236cc or 7.98 fluid ounces. 10W fork oil. Fork oil level is specified as 400mm (15.75") below the top of the tube without the spring installed, forks fully collapsed.

10W fork oil.

 

Your SECA fork lowers are not hard anodized. Therefore, as the forks work up and down, the lowers wear. This suspends particles of aluminum in the oil, and thus, increases wear significantly. IMHO, the recommended 10,000 mile oil change interval is too long. 7,500 is better.

With stock forks, I stick with 10W oil. It works well.

My XS11 is fitted with RaceTech upgrades. The oil level in them is the recommended (by RaceTech) 130 mm from the top with the forks collapsed and the springs removed. I put my XS650 to this oil level with the stock forks. I like it. The bumps get soaked up and less dive when I grab the brake.

 

Just when you think you've seen it all.....



I found this in the forks which came with the bike..... I have no idea what the P.O. of this bike thought this would accomplish? Hack the spring and then put a piece of PVC pipe in here?
Really? Just goes to show...... gotta check EVERYTHING from the "Notorious P.O."

Forks are done..... time to move on to the front brakes and some beautiful new SS Lines from CHACAL!!!!


Kurt

 

The PVC is a spacer. Some aftermarket springs aren't a perfect fit.

 

Those appear to be progressively wound springs, and they are shorter than the stock springs:

Inner Tube Fork Springs:

HCP9436 Aftermarket front suspension COIL SPRINGS, one pair does both forks. For all XJ650 models. Front spring spacers are not included with these springs, and you'll need to note the following changes needed by model when installing them. NOTE: springs should be installed with the tighter (more-closely spaced together) coils towards the top of the fork tube.
$


1980-81 XJ650 Maxim or Midnight Maxim models will need the installation of an HCP8239 spring seat (one for each spring) and the fabrication of a 46.40mm long spacer when replacing stock springs. You can use the HCP8284 spring spacer tube (stock for 1982-83 XJ650 Maxim models) and cut it down to the proper length; one tube will provide enough material to do both springs and fork tubes…..or you can order the HCP21019 spacers tubes which are already cut to the correct length. NOTE: due to the difference in size of this spring versus stock springs, you will need to use approximately 24 cc's more fork oil (for a total of 286cc's per tube) when installing these springs and using the stock thin-wall metal spacer tubes as recommended above. The use of other type of spacers (thick-wall PVC pipe, for instance) will change this recommended fork oil volume by an unknown amount.


1982-83 XJ650 Maxim will require the stock spacers to be shortened to 88.90mm (or you can order the HCP21020 spacers tubes which are already cut to the correct length), and the re-use the original spring seats. NOTE: due to the difference in size of this spring versus stock springs, you will need to use approximately 15 cc's more fork oil (for a total of 235cc's per tube) when installing these springs and using the modified stock thin-wall metal spacer tubes as recommended above. The use of other type of spacers (thick-wall PVC pipe, for instance) will change this recommended fork oil volume by an unknown amount.


1982 XJ650RJ Seca and all XJ650 Euro models will need the installation of an HCP8239 spring seat (one for each spring) and the fabrication of a 36.40mm long spacer when replacing stock springs, and the re-use the original spring seats. For a more precise feel, use only a 12.50mm spacer:

http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/pdf/saving old standards.pdf

You can use the HCP8284 spring spacer tube (stock for 1982-83 XJ650 Maxim models) and cut it down to the proper length; one tube will provide enough material to do both springs and fork tubes…..or you can order the HCP21021 spacers tubes which are already cut to the correct length. NOTE: due to the difference in size of this spring versus stock springs, you will need to use approximately 7 cc's more fork oil (for a total of 243cc's per tube) when installing these springs and using the modified stock thin-wall metal spacer tubes as recommended above. The use of other type of spacers (thick-wall PVC pipe, for instance) will change this recommended fork oil volume by an unknown amount.

 

My bet is that the PO knew what he was doing, and installed a good set of springs at some point when the originals had worn out. I don't see a problem

 

--well, looks look others got the answer in already... didn't read the rest before I hit reply

 

XJ Folks,
Thanks for the update on what these were, they've been removed in favor of OEM components from the newly purchased set. Based on the overall condition of this bike and it's clearly inadequate maintenance, it looked a good bit like a rig job. For some reason the P.O. had also lathered up the fork caps and these spacers with black RTV making me all the more suspicious of this PVC pipe.

I've heard many of the arguments at the bike rallies about: Stock Springs vs. Progressive Springs vs. Emulators. I've take the path of 100% properly maintained and functional O.E.M. components, if the static ride height is not correct to OEM spec I'll replace the springs. I have "Tinkered" a little with oil quantity/level and found slight volume increases eliminate SOME of the typical slamming that can occur at the last few millimeters of travel with these vintage OEM fork designs on my XS1100's and my XJ550. But, I honestly don't really push any of my older bikes that hard. I enjoy them as cruisers. When I want to take the twisties at high speed I break out the FJR.

My GUESS is that the P.O. installed these thinking he was getting some enormous performance boost by installing these springs. Obviously, the P.O. just popped the tops off the forks and stuffed them in there. The overall condition of the internals were absolutely filthy, there was NO oil in them, and the seals were shot from a complete lack of lubricant and age. There is a good chance the P.O. might have gained something slightly better than O.E.M. performance if he had performed the "Upgrade" properly by cleaning the forks, replacing the seals, and maintaining the oil in them (in concert with the new springs). If the P.O. really knew what he was doing, full disassembly and cleaning of the forks would have been first on the list of things to do.

Kurt

 

Increasing the fork oil level increases the resistance at the end of travel, so it's good for braking, IMHO. The stock springs that you showed me are progressive wound. They are a good one size fits all option. I think that's why manufacturers use it. Straight rate springs should be chosen based on your weight and riding style. They will be required if you go to emulators.

FWIW, my emulator equipped bike has pretty long aluminum spacers in it. The custom springs aren't half the length of OEM.

Also, too much oil in the fork will lock them up and cause seal failure. 130 mm from the top is what I run and it's fine.

 

I weigh 220 lbs and stock fork springs just don't cut it for me.
Stiffer fork springs are the most dramatic handling upgrade I've experienced. Regardless of your weight I fully recommend stiffer springs.

 

I do too. But, not everyone agrees. This is especially true for two-up riding. I have an XS1100 set to 35 mm laden sag. I can usually get most of it back cranking in preload on the rear shocks as my fat a$$ has no preload cranked in.

 

XJ Friends,
Went through the front brakes yesterday and installed a BEAUTIFUL new set of S.S. Brake Lines from Chacal. These are ABSOLUTELY PERFECT and worth every penny the fit and finish are great. In addition, unlike other brands, there are actually DIRECTIONS (which I always read). My brakes are now working perfectly after cleaning all the slime out of the system and completely flushing everything.


Now here's a one-time good deal for someone (if anyone is interested.......)
One of the P.O.s of this bike had already installed SS brake lines on this machine (see pic below). They are not really as nice as Chacal's and do not have the clear protective covering which makes keeping them clean a little bit of a pain in the butt. They look similar to the Russel's I have on one of my XS11's. Aside from being a little dirty, they show no signs of damage in any way. I purchased mine for the SECA from Chacal before I had even gained possession of the bike. I possibly would not have changed them had I known the bike already had a decent set. These would certainly be a safety and performance improvement for someone running "Vintage" rubber lines from the 80's (I see 30+ year old OEM rubber lines on bikes at the Rallies all the time ). If anyone wants this set for their XJ650RJ please respond to this thread, and then PM me your name and a mailing address, First to respond gets 'em (yes. FREE).



Very Sincerely,
KURT

 

Responding......