BK's Winter RestoMod Project - 82 XJ650 Seca

Shopping List:

• Valve Spring Compressor
• Top End Gasket/Seal Kit
• Top End Hardware Kit
• Valve Shims
• Master Cylinder
• Rear Brakes Rebuild
• Spark Plugs
• Front Directionals
• Oil Change
• Clutch Handle
• Clutch Cable
• Intake Manifold
• Air Filter

I think I'm missing something.

 

Carb rebuild kits
Tires
Brake pads/shoes
Blade fuse box upgrade

Lol

 

Oh, Yeah-----

Need MONEY

 

A cool new helmet.

 

I threw in a new fuse box, but it still uses the glass ones. Perhaps I'll do the blade fuses.

Tires are good.

Front pads are like 2" thick. I tore apart the front caliper and it works fantastic now. The rear brakes I'll rebuild.

Sold a bunch of 4x4 parts tonight. So its coming in nicely.

Going to go with a flat black theme on the bike; my helmet matches perfectly.

 

You might want to invest a tiny bit of money (and a lot of time) to make the helmet more visible.
This is my flat black with DOT reflective tape cut with a scrapbooking die cut.


If you don't want the color, there is retroreflective tape that comes in flat black.
Far fewer people have pulled out in front of me after I blinged up my helmet.

 

Hm. Interesting idea. What's it look like in the daylight? I already look like a really bad bowl of Fruit Loops on my XL. As "thsuper" as it sounds, I wouldn't mind matching a little more to the bike.

 

Mine looks like a bunch of orange/yellow stickers cut from DOT tape.
The flat black tape looks flat black. http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycles/stickers-decals/motorcycle-reflective-tape-kit.htm

 

do a ebay for "3m reflective sheeting"

 

Ordered myself a valve spring compressor, lapping paste, the sticks, and some engine assembly oil last night. Now onto gaskets and hardware kits. Could use some pointers.

I feel like a dick for shopping around, but I found this: http://www.partsnmore.com/parts/yamaha/xj650r/?q=18-0151

The guy said it has every engine gasket except the oil seals; not entirely sure what those are. Is that the same thing as this?:
HCP5462 Aftermarket ENGINE REBUILD GASKET KIT, for all 1980-81 XJ650 Maxim and Midnight Maxim engines, 1980-81 XJ650 Euro (4K0 and 4K1 models), and 1982 XJ650RJ Seca (non-YICS) engines.
$ 149.95

Is that going to include everything I'm going to need get the head back on?

My concern is also these things:


Here's another shot of one (top left):


Not sure what those are called, but I'm thinking I'm going to need them.

 

Almost looks like I'd need the following:

HCP5469 Aftermarket TOP-END GASKET KIT, for all 1980-81 XJ650 engines, 1980-81 XJ650 Euro (4K0 and 4K1 models), and 1982 XJ650RJ Seca (non-yics) engines.
$ 129.95


HCP22781 Aftermarket TOP END O-RINGS and CRUSH WASHERS KIT, contains all of these additional items which are needed to do a top-end service, and are not included in the top-end gasket kit. Highly recommended. Contains the following items:
Fits all 1980-81 XJ650 Maxim and Midnight Maxim engines, 1980-81 XJ650 Euro (4K0 and 4K1 models), and 1982 XJ650RJ Seca (non-YICS) engines.
$ 49.95

HCP22323 Aftermarket OIL COOLER O-RINGS KIT, contains all of these additional items which are needed to do an oil cooler removal and replacement, and are not included in the gasket kit or in the standard top-end or complete o-rings and crush-washers kit. Highly recommended. Contains all of the following items:
Fits all XJ550, XJ650, and XJ750 (except XJ750RL) models with the factory-installed oil cooler system.
$ 15.95


HCP22339 Aftermarket TOP END HARDWARE KIT, contains all of the special hardware pieces which are needed to do a top-end service, and are not included in the top-end gasket kit. Although you may not think that you need these items, you may quickly discover that you do, since they tend to get seized and rusty and/or damaged (bent, out-of-round) during the engine dis-assembly process. Contains the following items:
Fits all XJ650, all XJ700 air-cooled, and all XJ750 air-cooled engines.
$ 59.95

So like, $300 or so to get this top end all buttoned up and ready to roll?

 

A complete top end rebuild includes removing the block and pistons. Start a conversation with Chacal. Tell him what model you have and whether you plan on removing the block and pistons (I highly recommend it). He'll tell you what you'll need and how much it'll cost.

I wouldn't. There's no harm in doing it.

They are locating dowels. Yeah, looks like new ones are in order.

Hope this helps.

Gary H.

Edit: Did you do any cleaning on the piston crowns?

 

Aw man, you mean pull the jugs out? I was hoping to leave all that in there. I was planning on just doing from the head gasket up.

Ah, locating dowels. Wasn't sure the name. I thought those things went all the way down through the block.

Haven't really touched the bike lately. Valve spring compressor and lapping paste will be here Tuesday. I'll start on those and clean out all the ports. Was quoted $80 for the bead blast so I'm going to pass on that. I'll use a wire wheel on the drill and go that route.

Piston crowns? Like, the top of the pistons? No, I have not but I plan to do so.

My initial plan was to get the bike in running order. Wasn't really looking to do a total rebuild. A little top end stuff. Revamp the brakes. Fix the headlight. That sort of thing. As excited as I am to ride the bike, I am not sure how long I'll keep it for. I'm so new to this I was planning on getting myself a winter project, ride it for a year, buy another project for the winter, and sell the XJ650 in the spring. Then ride that winter project for the year, buy a project for that winter, and so on.

We'll see how things go. My plans are always changing.

 

when you lap the valves, get a 2 or 3 inch piece of plastic tube or fuel line that fits over the valve stem and push it on the stem then put the other end in your cordless drill and save a lot of time

 

Well, time to get this thing moving again.

Scored this awesome piece of machinery last night:


$30. With sand. Could use a new piece of plexiglass though. But, I did this with it:







I mean, its not the same condition as what was posted earlier. But way better than before. I love this thing. One by one I'm pulling shiny things off the bike to make them less shiny. Right now I'm thinking the headlight ring and the right side "YAMAHA" panel will remain chrome. Everything else is getting and blasted then a flat black treatment.

One thing I do question are these little valve ports:


There is a little bit of crud in them. I've air blasted them and brake cleaned them multiple times. I'll keep trying to get the crap out, but perhaps once I do an oil change at like 50 miles it will flush out all that crap?


I have a very short week next week, so hoping the parts get here in time. Then I should be able to get the top end all buttoned up. Next will be levers, clutch cables, and the big thing will be the intake manifold. At least then I could start the motor. Once that is done I'll rebuild the rear brakes.

 

Well, I have some people telling me that I'll never be able to get the sand out. So, I didn't just ruin my motor did I? I'll keep hammering away at it with the compressor. One person suggested soaking the head in a hot tub of water and dish soap.

edit: to add, now I'm being told that if I miss one grain my motor is destroyed. awesome.

 

Wash and scrub it. It should come out.

Gary H.

 

that probably wasn't the best thing to do, but it's done now. that hole where the valve lifters go is clean enough, quit messing with it. the tolerances in the well and the valve guide are really close, quit while you're ahead.
i'd scrub anything that looks important with a toothbrush and kerosine then hose it really good with a garden hose. like till you're soaking wet and froze then another minute or two

 

Had a long night ahead of me, so I needed a little help:


The fun beings:


This water was freaking HOT. Not sure if the steam is visible. My hands are burned today though.


The residue left behind on the first dunking:


Dunk #3:


After the fourth and final dunking:




The process was fill up the basin with hot water and Dawn. Dunk it in. Plop it up and down for two MetallicA songs. Pull it out of the water and hose it down in the sink. Next use the compressed air and blow it all out. I did that process four times. As you can see, the first time there was a bit of residue. The second time was none. I did it two more times after that just to make sure. Every bolt hole. Every dowel hole was blown out four times after a dunking. I hope I'm ok now. I'll follow through with an oil change after 15 miles and 50 miles when I'm done.

Other than that, that was my accomplishment last night. My hands are burned to shit though.

 

Spray some oil on it, won't take long to start the white corrosion