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Changing fork seals not going to well....

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by bcroach78, Jun 29, 2008.

  1. NigeW

    NigeW Member

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    Phot hasn't appeared. I have posted it in my gallery now so you can click gallery box below to find it. N
     
  2. Swissjon

    Swissjon Member

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    Thanks.. the 5/8 spark wrench translates to 16mm.. I'll give that a go before I go cutting up my Alen Keys! :)
     
  3. NigeW

    NigeW Member

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    My forks needed a 19mm (or 3/4 inch) bolt head. Try your 5/8 first and if no joy try a 3/4. N
     
  4. Swissjon

    Swissjon Member

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    I've got both, I'll figure it out. Thanks :)
     
  5. shnuffy

    shnuffy Member

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    Is anybody here willing to compile a how-to? The information seems to be around but it's scattered all over the place. This actually does sounds like a nightmare job to do. :(

    I have a feeling I might have to be doing this soon myself and I brought the bike in for a safety today and the mechanic subtlety noticed there was a little bit of oil around the fork...

    Thanks in advance!
     
  6. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    The following discussion has some very good pointers, tips, and photographs that detail the fork rebuild process on a 1981 XJ650 Maxim model (one of the "simple" fork systems), and is a good point of reference to help you decide whether the task is something that you wish to attempt yourself or leave to a qualified shop. Many thanks to owner Gamuru for his excellent efforts in providing this material:

    http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=8355.html
     
  7. NigeW

    NigeW Member

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    OK.. This is my way of doing it.

    First, undo the bolts/nuts on the top yoke, then undo the fork top nuts with a suitable allen key (taking care not to let the springs fire them out at you).
    Next remove front wheel and drop the forks out. Turn them upside-down over someting to catch the oil. Remove the fork dust collars.

    Insert a (on mine) 3/4 inch (19mm) bolt on the end of a socket extension bar (or two) down the stanchion and into the head of the retaining stem. You'll need some way of getting a really good purchase on this (click on gallery button in my post above to see the tool I made. I had The nuts welded onto bolt, but if you use three nuts you might get enough leverege). LOf course, you might be lucky and have the correct Yamaha tool to hand.

    Keep this in place and turn the stanchion/leg assy over. Now use an allen key to impact/undo the retaining bolt in the bottom of the leg - I had to cut the angle off the allen key to make a straight drift which I could really clout, as these are usually Loctited.

    Once this is done, turn fork right way up and pull hard on the leg to pull it out of the stanchion (there may be a circlip to remove from above the fork seal first - can't remember as I've done two sets of Kawasaki forks since). Now you should have everything apart and be able to lever out the old seals.

    Fit the new seals into the stanchion (I used a bit of blunt wood to drift/seat the new seals), then reassemble in reverse order.

    Hope this helps.

    Nige.

    Slide new seal
     
  8. NigeW

    NigeW Member

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    Sorry, I've mixed up my legs with my stanchions.

    Penultimate para should read pull the stanchion out of the leg.

    Last para should read fit new seals into leg.

    Nige
     
  9. Swissjon

    Swissjon Member

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    Ok.. Go to the back of the class.. :p
     
  10. BleedingOxide

    BleedingOxide Member

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    [​IMG]

    Sometimes I'm impatient and sometimes my deadlines are immovable.
    Thusly was born this frankensteinien creature


    Metal tube for leverage (held in place with my toes), 8mm hex key, The Bolt, damping rod, m12 bolt, spark plug socket, 10mm/11mm socket, 8mm/9mm socket, 12mm socket, socket extender, ratchet.

    So the sparkplug socket is now permanently attached to the 10/11 socket because I jammed it in so hard..
    It did work, but I think I'll make the tool described earlier in this topic.
     
  11. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member

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    I just use the "stack of extensions and upside-down spark plug socket" tool myself; you need the thing so rarely and then it breaks down and all the pieces go back to their regular jobs.
     
  12. bensalf

    bensalf Active Member

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    so, heres what the top of the damper rod looks like, (the part you're trying to hold)

    [​IMG]
    a reversed 19mm spark plug socket should fit in the end, with extentions to reach down into the fork leg
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    or you can maka tool with a long 19mm bolt as above
    stu
     
    granitize likes this.
  13. quebecois59

    quebecois59 Well-Known Member

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    Good close-up pics!
     
  14. PilotSmack

    PilotSmack Active Member

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    I used a broom stick. Wood grabbed the splines really well.
     
  15. waldreps

    waldreps Active Member

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    So, exactly which parts do I need to replace when fixing leaking forks? Gamuru mentions dust seal, oil seal clip and oil seal. So, is that 3 parts for each fork? Any part numbers for a 1982 XJ650 Maxim? Any suggestions on where to get these parts? Thanks for the help.
     
  16. Xjrider92117

    Xjrider92117 Active Member

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    Send a p/m to user and chacal. He will hook you up.
     
  17. waldreps

    waldreps Active Member

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    Thanks for the info.
     

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