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Checking wires on kickstand switch

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by joejr2, Aug 17, 2021.

  1. joejr2

    joejr2 Active Member Premium Member

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    I put together my 82 xj650 seca rj out of parts from a variety of sources. I have an oem kickstand switch and
    a wiring harness from another 650 seca rj. there are three wires from the switch; blue with yellow stripe,
    black, and green with blue stripe. the connector has only the black and the blue with yellow. does the green with blue have to connect somewhere. I have been trying to get the solenoid to fire the starter motor and have been trying to eliminate any possible causes. have tested the sidestand and cutoff relays, ( ok ) Horn works neutral light goes on with the key and the oil light goes on whe starter button is pushed. I've swapped out about 4 different starter relays with no change. any sugestions ?
     
  2. Rooster53

    Rooster53 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    The 3 wire side stand switch is for the bikes with Computer Monitoring System, one switch for the side stand relay and one for the CMS. It should work fine unless someone moved wires around on the harness side so just be sure the harness connects to a colored wire and a return.

    Note the side stand relay cannot cause a starter not to engage. The side stand switch can only cause the starter not to engage if you are out of neutral and trying to engage the starter with the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in.

    You can easily bypass the Starter Cutoff Relay by temporarily installing a jumper between the two R/W wires. If the starter engages with the jumper when the starter button is pushed then there is a failure in the safety circuit relay, wiring, or switches.
     
  3. joejr2

    joejr2 Active Member Premium Member

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    thanks man I'll do that test right away
     
  4. joejr2

    joejr2 Active Member Premium Member

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    I jumped the two red/w wires feeding the cutoff relay and when I pushed the starter button the starter fired. Are there any components besides the cutoff relay and kickstand relay
    in the safety circuit that could fail and prevent the starter from firing ?Are the relay tests shown from pages 244-248 in the haynes manual accurate ? Do you have any other
    testing proceedures that you use ?
     
  5. Rooster53

    Rooster53 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    No specific procedure but you are half way home knowing it works with the jumper. Once again the side stand relay will not cause the starter not to engage and can only cause loss of ignition as it disables the TCI.

    You know you have 12V to the starter cutoff relay, the start button is working, and the starter solenoid is working since the starter engages with the jumper present, so now all you need is a ground on the Sb OR B/Y wire to energize the starter cutoff relay enabling the starter circuit.

    I would simply check that the neutral switch is applying a ground at the Sb wire by placing the bike in neutral and measuring at the Sb wire at the starter cutoff relay. If the neutral switch is applying ground and the starter is not engaging then the starter cutoff relay is defective (using the jumper verified the other components.) While you are there with the DMM I would go ahead and shift out of neutral, pull in the clutch, and put the side stand up. This should apply ground to the B/Y wire at the starter cutoff relay, which would also enable the starter circuit so the starter could be engaged.

    As for the Haynes manual:

    If you look at the upper drawing on page 243 you see that either the neutral switch closing will apply ground to Sb OR the clutch AND side stand switch closing will apply ground to the B/Y wire. If neither scenario will allow the starter to engage then odds are the starter cutoff relay is at fault - once again you verified other components with the jumper test.

    The test on the top of 245 should work for the relay contacts, but you also need a functioning internal diode to engage the relay coil and work for neutral.

    The test in the middle left of 245 should should check the diode excepting you are not likely to have a VOM like shown, but a DMM. That means instead of the 9.5 ohm reading shown you should have an approximate .6 V reading with the DMM set to diode test mode. Note also the leads will likely be reversed for the DMM as the older VOM's often reversed polarity for continuity testing. With the DMM just make sure you get a low reading one way and open the other in the diode test mode.
     

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