Well, as I'm getting all the necessary parts in for redoing the front brakes and such, I figured I'd might as well attempt to get the anti-dive working as well, which means tearing apart the anti-dive valves, and while I'm at it, I might as well tear down the forks and rebuild them. Decided to do a small photo-journal of how it goes. Things are set up in the back yard here, on our patio. Have a couple tables for working on, and I'm going to take as many pictures as I remember to take and post them here for everyone to see and maybe help out! Any of the pictures I post may be clicked on for a larger size. So, without further ado: Day 1 ---------------------- Set the bike up on a jackstand using the front crossbar. It seems to be pretty stable on that and the center stand. Got out the Haynes manual and started going through it. First they want you to pull the anti-dive actuators from the valve units.. Only thing is, it's very hard to get an allen wrench down inside behind the caliper to undo the screw on the opposite side. I figured out that the reason they were telling you to do it this way is if you do not plan on draining and refilling the brake system. So, I decided to leave the anti-dive units intact and just pull all the brake lines (since I'm replacing them with stainless steel) So I pulled the brake cables and then removed the calipers. After this, you can pull the speedo cable and it's mounting bracket up and out of the mount and fender, then remove the axle from the wheel. I pulled the pin on the castellated nut, took the nut off, and removed the pinch bolt from the opposite side. A quick, light tap with a hammer tapped it through, and after gripping it lightly with some vice grips on the other side, I slid it the rest of the way out. I then found that my camera's white balance was horribly wrong. I forgot/didn't know that the speedometer piece is separate, so after I pulled the axle out and moved the wheel a little, it promptly fell to the ground. I then removed the wheel, wiggling it a little, and it slid right out from between the forks. Now I was able to get to the fender bolts, and removed them, along with the brake cable mounts and the fender itself. (Which it turns out used to be red, and as was pointed out to me, there's red in several other places.. looks like this used to be a maroon model.) I could now begin to tackle the forks. I referred back to the Haynes manual, but for the Seca configuration, it refers to "Fork Cap Bolts", Hoses, and other such things which confused me. This is in part because it refers Seca disassembly procedure to the 750J instructions which I think may be different. This is how I was able to remove it. The Haynes manual states you need to relieve the air pressure in the fork first by removing the cap, then using something small to push in the Schrader valve's pin, relieving the air. Next, I loosened the top and bottom pinch bolts (3 total) and actually down the line had to remove the lower pinch bolts completely. I removed the allen head bolt that holds the front emblem in (which was long gone on my bike) and then began to twist and pull down on the fork. I moved it down a couple inches, and then slid the air fitting ring back up and off of the end of the tube. This ring has a pair of o-rings inside it to seal the bracket around the tube, and a small hole in the chrome upper allows the air to be added and removed from the main fork itself. There is a very small metal ring that's set into a groove just below this, that will need to be removed before you can slide the fork out of the pinch bracket. Just lightly tug it open and slide it up off the end of the fork. I then started to work the fork leg off of the bike. This was very difficult because the previous owner had (spray?) painted the upper chromed sections of the forks black. This was an issue because the lower pinch bracket has very tight tolerances.. it's not easy to get the fork out even when it's clean. The paint had obviously not stuck very well at all to the chrome inners and had begun to bubble and flake off, making the surface that much "larger" in diameter. This paint caused the fork to seize on the way out several times, and I eventually resorted to removing the lower pinch bracket bolts, and tapping a pry bar into the slot to stretch the bracket open a bit wider, enough to wiggle the fork out. This finally worked, and I was left with a fork with a lot of paint scraped off of it.. and a pinch bracket full of paint shavings. It was getting quite dark out and the mosquitoes started to really get bad, so I called it a night and moved all the tools back inside. I will take more pictures tomorrow with the removal of the right fork, which will hopefully go a little faster since I've done it once now..