fed up with this bike

Yes you will!
You're on the path to success.
Good job hanging-tough and not giving up on it. When a bike fails to start ... that's the big hair-puller-outer that gets everybody ready to start selling-off parts in disgust.

Now, you have to become a Tweaker rather than a Troubleshooter.
Tweaker is so much more fun.
Before you know it ... it gets in your blood and you strive for perfection.

Just remember that those Pilot Screws ... once they are really close to being where they need to be for a good-running bike ... are only about the width of a Nickel from being Dialed-IN.

You may have to do a good deal of individual hole tweaking ... depending on the color of the Spark Plug ... but once your IN at the point where the Idle is Smooth and the transition coming off Pilot to Main Jets is there ... you'll have a finely tuned machine to have fun riding.

(I'm writing up "Dialing Yourself IN" ... it's in the First Rough Draft ... should be ready for people around Halloween.)

 

Ok, I adjusted it to where I thought was right, I go for a ride and it lasted quite awhile, then it just died, and It wont start again. I can start it with starting fluid and it will idle again. It still wont start on its own without starting fluid. Is this just adjustment?

When I give a quick rev on the throttle it climbs in RPM and returns to idle speed very slowly and sometimes just stays around 4k and I have to bring it back down to 1500 with the idle screw.

 

Starter jets in the bowls are clogged...............?

 

100 miles? Easy ride. Best get on it, winter is coming quick!

 

When i was running pretty lean, it had a hard time starting w/out starter fluid. Now that the mixture is closer to on, it starts everytime, even cold, w/out fluid. I believe that the falling slowly back to idle is either a symptom of running too lean, idle screw too far open, or an overly hot engine...

 

Until you get a Colortune ...

Adjust the Mixture Screws OUT until the engine starts to balk, cough, flutter or die ... then, take it back IN ... slowly ... until you get the good Idle.

If it WON'T run ... that MIGHT be too Lean.
Do the indexing ...

Bring those Screws OUT ... across the board ... Until it will run on its own.
Then, Peak the Idle on 1
Shut down and determine how far Out the setting is ...
Return the Screw to that spot and do the others to Match.

You had it running OK ... so, you have to be Close.
Tweak them all Out the width of Nickel until you get a steady idle.

The ability to "Listen" to the engine and Tweak is something it takes some time and experience to develop.