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First Cafe Racer Mod! 1983 XJ750 Maxim

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by May_J_Aaron, Jun 24, 2018.

  1. May_J_Aaron

    May_J_Aaron Member Premium Member

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  2. May_J_Aaron

    May_J_Aaron Member Premium Member

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    In case the lady forgets her mirror, I polished this one up too!
    AAF4D6AC-F090-474C-B04E-0F20D130AE83.jpeg
     
  3. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Most cold-blue solutions are not good for much aside from small touchups.
    Rust bluing takes longer, but is more DYI friendly than hot-tank bluing. Try that next time.
     
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  4. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    hold up to weather, yes, washing, yes. physical abuse, probably not.
    i just used a battery charger, the key is keep doing it like 20 times, only takes a second. i used a piece of cotton ball and changed it every other time.
    i had a few scrapes on the muffler chrome that had some rust and looked like poop. cleaned the rust with acid then went over it with the nickel stuff and they disappeared and
    stayed gone
     
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  5. dkavanagh

    dkavanagh Well-Known Member Premium Member

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  6. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    actually it is electrolysis. the kit has a little power supply (use a battery tender) and a little metal rod with a alligator clip (forget that) and a bottle of special sauce.
    all you need is the refill bottle of special sauce. clip one lead to the bike (+ or - i forget which one) rip about 1/4 of a cotton ball and clip it in the other lead.
    IMPORTANT pour some special sauce in a bottle cap. dip the cotton in the bottle cap, nice and dripping wet and rub that on the part for about 30 sec.
    now the good stuff is used up from the special sauce, get a new cotton ball and repeat. never put used special sauce in the big bottle and contaminate it.
     
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  7. May_J_Aaron

    May_J_Aaron Member Premium Member

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    I want to paint this black, is it easy to remove, change the seal and put it back on or is it WAY more complicated than it looks on the outside?
    Not 100% sure if it has a very minor leak or if it was likely catching crud from being in the back, wasn’t much near the lip where it goes from black to silver.
    I cleaned the area with brake cleaner...
    55207B52-60E2-4754-85FA-79C9E225A34C.jpeg
    Here’s a previous photo:
    1F1F3580-3CB0-4946-AC39-F07955513F27.jpeg
     
  8. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    there's no gasket there so in 30 years that's not much of a leak. take it apart, wipe it out and check it in 10 years
     
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  9. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    There are oil seals at the output side of the engine, and the input side of the final drive.
    Removal of the final drive is easy, just take off the shock and undo the four nuts on the housing.
     
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  10. May_J_Aaron

    May_J_Aaron Member Premium Member

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    Oh! So there’s no oil going to leak out?!

    The round piece on top, is that a vent? How does it work? Couldn’t find much on it...
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2019
  11. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    The round cap on top is the breather. No oil will leak out unless you set it so the breather is the lowest point, or you remove the fill or drain plugs, or you start pulling seals.
     
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  12. May_J_Aaron

    May_J_Aaron Member Premium Member

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    The vent is magnetic so it must contain Iron!
    I’m thinking of plating it with Nickel like Polock mentioned he does with some parts.
    I bought the Caswell Nickel plating already, waiting for it to arrive
     
  13. May_J_Aaron

    May_J_Aaron Member Premium Member

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    Success!
    After putting everything back together (stripping, painting, polishing, new bearings, new brake pads, nickel plating, more polishing...) putting it together, hearing some clacking, pulled it apart and found the drive shaft came out at the gear end, apparently it comes out very easily! Seal seems ok, will keep an eye for leaks, looks very easy to replace.

    QUESTION:
    Anyone know the torque on the castle nut for the rear axle?
    ( I need to get a manual for this bike...)
    14CA99DA-87E4-4872-B6D7-B4AD8A270D27.jpeg D51AB845-E959-4121-83E7-A1C990123CDF.jpeg B302369A-054C-44FA-863D-32E74DC5C4BB.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2019
  14. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    pretty dam tight
     
  15. May_J_Aaron

    May_J_Aaron Member Premium Member

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    Ahahaha :D
    That's what I did the first time, made it really hard to pull the screw driver out on the right side, figured I might have made it too tight!
     
  16. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    are you sure of the spacers on the axle, i don't think that hole should get covered by the swingarm no matter how tight the castle nut is
     
  17. May_J_Aaron

    May_J_Aaron Member Premium Member

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    They weren't quite covered but it started too, It was Really tight at that point! I was still able to get it out but it took some spinning and wiggling!
    Looks like it's suppose to be 73-80 Ft lbs of torque, I'm certain I went way over that!
    I didn't change the spacers and made sure to use the ones that came with it.
     
  18. May_J_Aaron

    May_J_Aaron Member Premium Member

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    After scratching my head trying to figure out how to hide this rat nest of wiring, and the front wheel conveniently removed to get a set of Metzler 888’s.... I realized it’s insanely long!
    Going to use my original labeling to track backwards, relabel again, and start trimming up over a Foot of wiring!
    If I track it back a little more and depending how I can arrange the connections since Yamaha wanted to overlap EVERYTHING.... I might be able to hide it all underneath the gas tank!
    5DDC1781-5A9E-4E43-9A4F-5EDFFBAAD1DA.jpeg
     
  19. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    reach up behind the steering neck, there's a little area in there to hide some stuff but that's a lot of wire
     
  20. May_J_Aaron

    May_J_Aaron Member Premium Member

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    That's where I'm sort of thinking of placing the connectors! I just need to go through the wiring in the diagram you shared to figure out a few wires that end in little black boxes, possibly unwrap the mess of wires all the way back and move them to the other side since the Ground wires being shared are no longer needed as I currently suspect, due to using the Acewell gauge being an all-in-one source for information on the bike.
    I may end up cutting out up to 2 feet of wire!....
     

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