Have to use Instant Start

Okay While we are the subject of having a hard time starting. I have a '82 xj550 that I have problems with. The only way I can get it started is to spray some Instant Start in it. It doesn't matter what the outside temp is hot cold whatever it just won't start.

The guy who owned it before me had let it set for a couple years outside without a cover on it! So I had to tear the carbs apart and clean them. This is probably my main problem because I don't know how to sync them nor do I have the tools.

I also changed the oil, spark plug. air filter. And cleaned out the gas tank to get rid of any crap inside. I also had to repair some of the wiring.

I'm not complaining too much though when I can get it started it runs really gooooooood, besides I got a really good deal on it.

Any suggestions on what I should do?

 

Welcome!

Glad to hear you got into those carbs... bet they were pretty rough. Sometimes folks will use regular automotive carb cleaner, but that's bad news on bike carbs filled with rubber bits. The carb cleaner eats the rubber and then you've got a whole new set of problems.

Really, a carb balance should be a priority. The vacuum gauges aren't too expensive (mercury gauges run around $50-$75). If yours is a YICS bike, you'll also need a special tool that blocks the common passages in the engine that run between the cylinders and serve to create a turbulent air/fuel mixture in the combustion chamber. Unless you have a YICS tool in there, balancing is impossible. Mike Oberle made a bunch of them a few years ago, maybe someone else around here knows how to contact him? Your local Yamaha dealer might be able to scrounge one up, but it won't be cheap.

Other regular maintenance will include checking your valve clearances. I'm not the best one to comment on how to do it as the Haynes manual only says "measure the valve clearances" but gives no clue on how or with what.

One other thing that should get attention (although you never hear about it) is your wheel bearings and swingarm pivot. If the bike has been sitting outside as you say, the bearings will, at the very least, need greasing.

Best of luck!
GG

 

Look in the links section, theres a link to adjusting your valves.
I'd also look into the XJCD. lots of good stuff.

 

I also have an XJ550 and starting was one of my headaches. Did a carb resync all with homemade tools. Runs sweet but starting was still a problem.

My cure came in the form of new starter brushes. If they get too worn then they draw too much power and don't leave enough for the electrical system to provide a decent spark.

This is usually evident if the bike fires as you are taking your finger off the starter button.

I'd reccomend pulling the starter off and at least cleaning it all up to see if that helps. Had to clean mine a few times(weekly) before I could locate suitable parts so had it down to about 30 mins to strip and reassemble.

Go easy on that easy start. Too much is not good for the engine. They come to rely on it.
Cheers
HG

 

I never even thought of the brushs but that would make sence since most of the electrical stuff I had to repair was do to corosion.
I can bump start iit I have a long steep hill. It takes a few time but eventually it does.
I do have a YCIS motor so I guess I'll have to learn how to sync the carbs. I can't remember where I saw it but I did see how to build one of those tools.
I'll try some of those things and let you all know how I make out.
With the way the weather has been here in New York I'm starting to come down with spring fever. Yes I know it's still January but hey it's 55 degrees out right now!

Thanks for all the help.

 

Link to homemade YICS tool.

http://www.xs11.com/tips/norm/yics.htm

Pic link is broken but the pic is here http://www.xs11.com/tips/norm/yics.gif

I made one and it worked a treat.

Also made a manometer (carb sync tool) for about $7 that works perfectly. Uses oil which is supposedly more accurate than mercury.

 

Dragged out a pic of my manometer for those who may be interested.

Simply made from
four equal lengths of clear tube
A four way connector from the hardware reticulation section
cable ties
four short pieces of vacuum hose(for connecting to the carbs)
Piece of Aluminum lying around my shed.

I used transmission oil in the tubes as it has a thinner(more sensitive) viscosity.

Tip for filling with oil. Leave one tube off the connector at the bottom. put a short piece of tube on this into a container of oil. connect the other three hoses to the bikes carbs and start it up. The vacuum will slowly suck oil into the other three tubes. When the oil is at a decent level shut off the bike and remove the short piece and replace with the fourth tube.
Leave for ten minutes and it will find it's own level as the fourth tube is filled by the three others.

Connect fourth tube to bike and sync away.


Cheers
HG

 

That's a pretty neet trick there Goon. 8) I'll have to give that a try once I get to the point where I can get my bike started. Thanks for posting that.

 

I'll have to try that too.. Great idea!

Since there's no official spec for the carb vacuum, you dont have to calibrate or scale it. You dont need to know what the carbs are pulling, just that they're all pulling the same vacuum.

 

If there was ever a need for a thread sticky this would be it. Solved my starting problems right away. BRUSHES ORDERED!!

Thanks Goon!!

 

wow theres some great info in this thread. I got to remember it for when i finally get my bike running

 

this is probably a dumb quetion, but how do you conect the sync tube to the carbs?

 

You should have a small pipe rising up from atop the intake manifold with a rubber cap secured with a clamp. Simply remove the clamp, pull the cap and slide the sync tubes over the pipe.

 

Connect to the inlet manifold(carb boots) between the carb and the cylinder head. Each one has a small brass tube with a rubber cap over it. Remove the cap and hook the manometer tubes directly to the brass tubes.

On a 550 carb number 2 has a vacuum line between the boot and petcock. Remove the tube and run the tank on PRI if syncing using the tank.

650/750's have the vacuum on #3 I think.

 

With your home made manometer did you put a pin hole in the tubes to eliminate pulses?
I was told that you have to do this.

Any comments?

 

Awesome thank you guys... I think I am going to buy some mercury carb sticks off eBay if they ever come up on there... I’ve found them on various websites... but nothing quite in my price range...

 

No pin holes. That would allow a vacuum leak to atmosphere. The fluctuations are only minor and are easily compensated for when syncing.

I have heard of people adding another T join in each tube and connecting it to an empty coke bottle, but you would need four bottles and that starts to become bulky. The idea behind the bottle is it is a larger volume and "absorbs" most of the fluctuations in air pressure within the tubes.


No pictures sorry Sno, but I will be syncing the XS this weekend so if I remember I will take some pics of that process. Similar bike and fittings so should be useful.


Cheers
HG

 

I'll try to get some pics this weekend, Bruin is stopping by to pick up where we left off two weeks ago. Going to break in the new Colortune, clean up the front brake system, and play with the electrical systems.