Help removing lock cylinder from gas cap

I have read the writeup on this, which is excellent, and gotten to the step where I'm supposed to press in a retaining latch. I just don't see said latch.

I tried including a picture with this post (below) using dropbox and flikr, but only the red x shows up. Anyone know what's up with that? So here's a link to the pic: Rickster's Gas Cap
It the latch there and I'm just not seeing it? Any advice is appreciated.





Thanks in advance

 

Rick,

XJ4ever did an excellent write up that you can view here:
http://www.xj4ever.com/gas%20cap.pdf

Be certain to have all of the old o-ring removed so you can see the tab. Also, make sure you have the key in the lock cylinder when you get the retaining tab depressed. Then push on the cylinder to remove it.

Hope this helps.

 

I believe he said he'd read that. Looking at the picture, he has in fact removed the o-ring, so the next step would be to grab a decent light source. It might just be difficult to see because everything is so gunked up.

 

Yeah, that writeup (which is excellent) is exactly the one I was referring to. The o-ring is indeed out, I just can't find the locking tab. I was hoping that someone would look at my pic and either say "It's right there at 2:00" or "Wow, it really is missing." I'll try to get another pic with the area around the cylinder illuminated better. Hypothetically, if the tab is really missing, then the cylinder should easily push right out, right?

Can't put the key in, it won't go in but the cylinder turns easily enough with a screwdriver (thank you, PO), and far enough to activate the latches. The cap itself is in decent shape, I just need to get the cylinder out for repair or replacement.

When I got the bike, it seemed easier to completely replace the cap rather than try to repair it. Come to find out the replacement cap is not vented, which explains why I could only go 3 or 4 miles before it died (which I now know was from fuel starvation) only to work again a couple of minutes later. Oh well, live and learn. At least that mystery is solved. Now if I can just get this mangled cylinder out....

On the picture issue, does anyone have any idea what's up with that? I've tried flikr and dropbox. Should I try photobucket or another public hosting site? Is there a tech support area for the forum itself?

 

My coworker figured out the picture issue. Evidently what looked like a link to the picture was actually a link to a page containing the picture, which the forum software didn't like. So here's the original picture. I'll try to get another picture with better light, but here's the original:

 

I got the lock out by using a socket. Not a good idea, the result was tearing out the lowest brass ring. Now I have to hold the lock with my thumb when pulling out the key or the lock comes with it. The lock still works just fine.
If you do figure it out please post it.

 

Not sure if it's the lighting of your picture, but the tab should be at the 12-12:30 O'clock position based on how it's oriented.

Is it broken off and missing? Is it so gunked up you can't see it?

 

Looked at the writeup again, and going by the markings on the end of the plug, thought that the latch should be at 12:00 in the picture. So I took the picture, upped the brightness and gamma settings, and discovered I was correct.



And there's that tank vent hole on the right.

 

Schmuck has all the markings of a true genius.............!

 

Now the trick is finding something thin and strong enough to depress the tab. Adding some Kroil or PB Blaster will help loosen things up too.

 

Good work, Schmuck! That's exactly the sort of answer I was hoping for.

I have Kroil, just need better lighting and definitely need better eyesight.

 

Update: I finally did get the lock cylinder out of the gas cap. I never could see the locking tab, even in direct sunlight, but I could feel it with the wire brad I was using. Fiddled with it for some 30 minutes before it finally released very easily. I don't think I suddenly got it right, I think the Kroil finally just did the trick. So, note to self: when using Kroil (or any penetrating agent), it helps to actually allow it some time to penetrate.

 

Yes it did. And yes it does; from 10 minutes to a few hours it WILL work if you let it do its thing. It just saved my butt again in the course of fixing my water heater.

Kroil got my horribly rusted-in fork caps on my 550 free when no other similar product would work and I tried very one out there; I used to swear by PB Blaster and/or Liquid Wrench but they both let me down. Kroil worked.

It's one of the most valuable things I learned about by being a member of XJBikes. Kroil, and hammer-handle pry bars.

 

Ok... replying to a 17yr old post BUT I have to say this helped me a TON!

I installed a new ignition, and of course that came with a new key. I didn't want to have 2 keys, one for ignition and one for gas cap. Following AWESOME and clear instructions from this post I was able to remove the gas cap lock cylinder, along with the cylinder tumblers, so now my new key opens the gas cap as well!

Thanks to the awesome posts on this site, i am able to get a new-to-me neglected and non-working 82 xj750 maxim up and running great in a matter of a couple weeks.

Thanks guys!!

 

Take them to a locksmith and have them rekeyed for one key