Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instruments

I recently removed the rectangular instrument panel and installed a round headlight on my 1982 750 Seca. Here are the wiring mods if you want to remove the rectangular instrument panel. You can elect to keep the original headlight or replace with a different type.

After you separate the connectors and remove the rectangular instrument panel and relocate to your work bench. Remove the back cover and you will see the wires that go to the blinker lamps, neutral lamp and high beam lamp. You don't have to make any changes to the wiring to these lamps because the wires exit directly out of the Atari and go to their own connectors. You can do whatever you like with these wires. Redirect to alternate lamps or LED's (don't forget the current limiting resistor) if you want to retain the blinker, neutral, high beam indicators.

The headlight and tail/brake light wiring is a different matter. The wiring for these go from the harness into the Atari as one color and most exit the Atari as different colors. Below I have listed the cuts/jumpers you need to do in order to reconnect the headlight and keep the tail/brake lights operational.

For the head light, there is a six conductor connector (the one with the heavier wires) coming from the wiring harness. You need three of these wires for your headlight. The black wire is ground. The yellow wire is your high beam and the green wire is the low beam. The wires coming from the headlight connector are slightly different. Connect the two black wires together for the ground and then connect the yellow high beam wire to the headlight connector's yellow/green wire and then connect the green low beam wire to the headlight connector's green/red wire.

The wires for the tail/brake lights come out of the wiring harness in the same group of wires as the headlight wires but head off to a different connector than the connector that holds the headlight wires. You can see this on the wiring diagram below. You simply need to install a jumper at the connector or remove the connector and connect two pair of wires together. For the tail light you simply connect the blue and blue/white wires together and for the brake lights you simply connect the green/yellow and yellow/white wires together.

Thats it. This should also work for the Maxim as I checked it's wiring diagram and with wire colors I described above are the same for the Seca or Maxim.

Here is a scan of the mods recorded on the wiring diagram. Looking at this will make it easier to understand my comments above.


Here is a photo of the actual wire changes. The green, yellow, black headlight wires are already insulated and head off to the headlight, but you can still see them. The tail/brake light connections are soldered, but not insulated yet.


And here is a shameless picture of my Seca with the round headlight.


Hope this helps.

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

Nicely Done! That 750 looks sexxy without the disco/custom van looking stacked headlights.

 

Nothing shameful about that picture cturek, that's a fine looking bike there I like the clean lines now with the removal of the instrument panel and installation of the round headlight.

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

THANK YOU!!! Want to get rid of the Beta Max above my bars myself. IMHO why would any company put a square headlight on a bike (let alone two :roll: )...

skillet

 

Though I am a fan of the fish finder and rectangular goodness I must say it looks pretty darn good with the big round light up front

Good work

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

OOOPS :lol: ...

skillet

 

Great thread, I had been meaning to write one up since I did the same mod last spring. adding the lines for the splices on the original wire schematics was a nice touch. I wish I had had that when I did mine. This should be a sticky. I know a lot of memebers here are constantly asking me if the rounds headligth swap and original cluster set up swap was hard or not and what mods I had to do. I think this will definetly answer a lot of questions. I will be refering this thread to others in the future.

Thanks a bunch cturek.

Eddie

 

going to be very helpful, thanks!

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

I wonder if the Auxilary low beam that was removed could be used to power a set of driving/fog lights.

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

As long as you don't exceed the wattage that the aux light consumed, you could power whatever you like. I'm at work and don't have the book, but from memory, I think the aux light drew 35 watts. Double check this and DO NOT exceed this power rating as you will burn up wiring or worse.

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

nice job!!! bike looks realy nice. Seeing that give me something to think about to do this winter.

 

Very nice post. cturek, where did you buy your headlamp? Did you have to fab a new mounting bracket, or is that the original?

 

I'd like to see a picture form the rider's POV. Nice look though. I like the painted forks and bars as well.

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

To answer your question Wesley, Yes you can power a pair of driving lights with the fog light wires, but you need to use a relay to do it.
Those wires will not support much more wattage than originally intended for. I ran two wires (hot and ground) from the battery to a relay and use the aux. light wires to trigger it on and off. That way the power comes directly from the battery and not thru those aux. light wires.
The stock switch will last only if you use a relay, other wise it would get too hot and melt with extra lights.

 

Hey, this helped me soooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much, thank you for posting it.

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

Justifidejoe- The 7" headlight is from a 79 CB650. It fitted right to the existing Seca's brackets. I did have to modify that back of the bucket a little to clear the ignition switch and some wiring.

Cannondale- I leaving for a fishing trip in the morning, but can post a picture from the riders POV on Monday.

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

Nice write up. I was going to look at changing the light to round. Thanks! Now you have me wanting to remove that ugly rectangle cluster.

Does anyone have any pics of there bikes with custom clusters/spedo's/tachs?

I'd like to see some to get some of the ideas rolling.

I'm pulling the motor this weekend to fix some exhaust studs and re-wire pick coils. So I might as well add to the to-do list!

Thanks!

Jason

 

I really like what you have done.
Getting-rid of the Nintendo Cluster deserves a tip of the Cap.

Since its your Project and YOU have been so close to it, ... YOU don't see your Finished Job like others do.

I looked at the nice photo you took of the Bike and wondered if you were really done or were going to leave it like that.

I would like to suggest you add a few more details to make it a Work of Art.

One Rule of Thumb to consider.
Anything BLACK on a Bike that AIN'T Black L@@KS like it hasn't been painted yet.

 

I really like what you have done.
Getting-rid of the Nintendo Cluster deserves a tip of the Cap.

Since its your Project and YOU have been so close to it, ... YOU don't see your Finished Job like others do.

I looked at the nice photo you took of the Bike and wondered if you were really done or were going to leave it like that.

I would like to suggest you add a few more details to make it a Work of Art.

One Rule of Thumb to consider.
Anything BLACK on a Bike that AIN'T Black L@@KS like it hasn't been painted yet.

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

Thanks Rick. No, I don't consider the Seca at 100%. There are cosmetic issues I still need to address and also I need to go back and redo some of the items I refinished early on in the project. The PO had painted many of the parts black already (passenger peg brackets, fork emblem, rear grab bar etc.). Early on, I sanded and repainted these items, but like you say, I really should now go back and remove the paint and polish the alloy. Still need to do more polishing on the motor case and refinish the fork bottoms. It's difficult now because I like riding it every chance I get.

Cannondale:
Here's a picture from the rider's POV. PLEASE note that the green panel for my blinkers/high beam/neutral lights is just temporary. I made it up so I can pass inspection here in April.

I'm currently working on an LED tachometer. I found a simple, VERY inexpensive circuit that will make a circle of 20 LED's into a tachometer. I have the parts (total under 20 USD) and am putting it together on the breadboard first. I will mount the LED's, along with the indicator LED's into a round instrument in place of my temp panel that will match my round speedo.