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HOW TO: Tell if you need a new clutch switch by just looking

Discussion in 'XJ DIY How-To Instructions' started by bigfitz52, Mar 20, 2011.

  1. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Here's a quick and easy safety "how-to" for everyone; incorporating some stuff I keep seeing. I swear almost every old Yammie I come across has a clutch switch that looks like this.

    Here's an original Yamaha clutch switch, as found on my bike.

    Note the TABS (blue arrows) are nowhere near the NOTCHES (red arrows.) This switch is pulling/pulled apart internally, and the wires are stretched and/or broken free from the switch itself. They are/were crimped onto the back of the switch, inside the "boot."

    [​IMG]



    For comparison, here's a picture of one looking the way it's supposed to; if yours looks like this, it's probably fine. Note tabs are firmly in their notches.

    [​IMG]

    I've never seen one looking like this "in the wild." All of mine looked like the first pic.



    chacal (XJ4Ever) carries two types of replacement switches; the OEM and an aftermarket repro. The new OEM switch is exactly like the original (except the plastic parts are a different color) but the aftermarket unit actually seems to have a heavier-duty switch:

    [​IMG]

    Aftermarket switch on LEFT, and an original OEM switch on the RIGHT. As I said, the new OEM switch is the same, just different color plastic.
    (Note the brass tabs at the back of the OEM switch, those are where the wires were originally crimped onto.)



    OEM replacement part installed:

    [​IMG]



    Aftermarket switch installed:

    [​IMG]

    (The other end plugs into the flat GREEN connector inside the headlight shell.)


    So to summarize: If your clutch switch looks like the one in the first picture, chances are it's either failed already or about to. There are two choices for replacement, the aftermarket part and OEM. The aftermarket part seems to possibly be a tad heavier-duty; the OEM part looks more like the original once installed.

    Neither one looks like it will ever fail in the manner the old ones almost all did; by coming apart and having their wires stretched to breaking from the crimped-on connections on the switch. Both have their wire sheath/boot securely "latched" onto the switch itself; the aftermarket unit also appears to be glued.

    Hope this helps anyone wondering about the solidarity of their clutch switch.

    Ride Safe--- Fitz
     
  2. mtnbikecrazy55

    mtnbikecrazy55 Active Member

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    Nice write up. I'm assuming that if the bike will start in gear with the clutch pulled, then its working properly?
     
  3. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Yep. But if it looks like pic #1 it won't be for long.

    If it looks like pic #2 you're fine.
     

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