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It begins again

Discussion in 'Other Motorcycles' started by wizard, Sep 23, 2010.

  1. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    1977 XS 650, going back to stock as usual.
     
  2. mlew

    mlew Well-Known Member

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    I bet you will have this one back to brand new condition in a couple of weeks. Where do you get the time Wiz? I have always liked the 650 twins, someday I'll find a nice one. That bike looks much better start than the XS400 you did.
     
  3. Bushy

    Bushy Active Member

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    He'll be lost in her embraces and relishing every moment, the sounds of a halcyon youth riding through his mind.....have fun wiz
     
  4. Cmccully04

    Cmccully04 Member

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    good find, looks pretty clean to begin with.
     
  5. schooter

    schooter Active Member

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    needs more rake
     
  6. Metal_Bob

    Metal_Bob Active Member

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    Over all the bike looks great - Show us the WIP and finished product :)

    Maybe it's because I'm to young, but I visually don't like the long flat two up seats that the older/classic bikes have.

    I do like the minimal hump my 82 750 Maxim has. Yet at the same time I find large hump king/queen seats to be excessive. But then again this is my first ride. :p

    /shrug

    Edit:
    I guess I like my girl's seat to have some flowing curves but not asstastic bulges like Kim Kardashian (sp).
     
  7. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    First job, check compression, dry, cold, WOT, 150 psi on both pots, book says 145 psi, so I am well pleased with that.
     
  8. markie

    markie Member

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    No - it needs flatter bars!
     
  9. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    A set of European style bars are waiting at the Yammery for me to pick up ;o)
     
  10. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    You said it yourself; and so it begins again.

    Good solid starting point this one. Those numbers probably mean a completely serviceable lump. How many miles/KM on it?
     
  11. markie

    markie Member

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    I knew someone ELSE who owned one of these in the early 80's and I thought it was a really smart bike with euro bars on!
     
  12. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    How many miles/KM on it?
     
  13. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    Pilot box refurb.........
     
  14. ken007

    ken007 Member

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    i have to admit i love those old XS650's. IMO they look alot like an old Triumph , twice the bike and half the cost.
     
  15. jeffcoslacker

    jeffcoslacker Member

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    We resident manage a self-storage facility here....early this spring I saw a group of people with a bike on the lot, I noticed it looked similar to my XJ but with subtle differences, mainly the motor...I went to see.

    Turns out this guy had the XS650 Special that his father bought new, and had just sold it to another guy for $800. I could have cried. It had 6500 miles on it, and had clearly been garaged and pampered.

    Talking to him, he said his father would ride it a few miles every weekend. Then he'd drink beer and clean/polish it, and admire it. It was just a useless toy to him.

    The father had passed away, and this guy sold it, not knowing what it was worth. If only I'd known...:(

    Makes me wonder what other treasures are behind these doors...man it sounded sweet as it went away up the road....
     
  16. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    Although this bike was fitted with twin CV carbs, the head is like something from an earlier age.
     
  17. Alive

    Alive Active Member

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  18. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    Yes I have, Al, I've got a groing list.
     
  19. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    "like something from an earlier age.", yea, just like us :)
     
  20. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    Yeh, some earlier than others :eek:(
     
  21. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    Side panels, rattle can finish.
     
  22. Alive

    Alive Active Member

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    Spot the 900 wheel :p
     
  23. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    spot the kawasaki color :)
     
  24. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    You are so wrong, Polock, the Kawa was metalic 2 pack.
    So how about some sensible comment on the restoration of 33 year old tins ?
     
  25. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    sorry, looks really close from 10,032 miles away
    sensible comment: that sure is a different font
     
  26. TIMEtoRIDE

    TIMEtoRIDE Active Member

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    Just checked out re-phasing the crank. Sounds like a winner.
     
  27. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    That was intentional.

    A few years later, when Honda did it to the Harleys, they even came right out and called it the "Shadow."

    (The 650 Yammie shared a shadow with the 650 Triumph.)
     
  28. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    I'm moving this thread to www.xs650.com there's a much better class of idiots, there.
     
  29. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    Before & after pic', fork legs.
     
  30. clipperskipper

    clipperskipper Member

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    The fork looks great, what did you wind up using, and will you clear them again?
     
  31. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    No I don't clear, I find it better just to give it a light polish now & again, it's amazing how long the shine lasts.
    I start with paint stripper, to remove any old laquer, then a 'bushy' rotary wire wheel (very lightly) then 240 grit wet & dry, then move onto the buffer, coarse, then fine wheels & finish with a liquid polish.
    One fork leg takes about 2 hours.
     
  32. markie

    markie Member

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    I start with paint stripper, to remove any old laquer, then a 'bushy' rotary wire wheel (very lightly) then 240 grit wet & dry, then move onto the buffer, coarse, then fine wheels & finish with a liquid polish.
    One fork leg takes about 2 hours

    And I thought he came around to test ride them!

    How's that for a better class of idiot?
     
  33. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    He was coming round today, Markie, but he is working on his carbs, I'll let him know about your comments on his intellect.
     
  34. markie

    markie Member

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    LOL I thought you were going to another site for a better class of idiot when I'M right here!!!

    I simply suggested you were using Bushy to buff yer fork legs.

    Pay attention, Blackadder.
     
  35. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    If wit was sh@@ you would all be constipated.
    A 'bushy' wire brush, rather than a stiff one.
     
  36. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    acetone and steel wool takes the clear off with a little rubbing
    i wonder if brake fluid on a rag over night would do the trick, sure takes paint off
     
  37. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    Picture shows the re-spoking jig, bottom port 20mm axel for 18" rear wheel, upper port 17mm for 19" front wheel.
     
  38. markie

    markie Member

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    Wizard - even your jigs are a work of art!

    Not sure how pleased Mrs Wiz will be when she sees what you have done to her kitchen cabinets though.
     
  39. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    She's quite happy to sacrifice for a good cause, I mean, who want's wobbly wheels.
    I will be posting a 'how to' on the re-spoking, if anyone is interested.
     
  40. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Damn, Wiz that's a lost art. Bet there's about maybe three or four of us on the site who even have the slightest concept of re-lacing a wheel.

    Good on ya. I've always found it to be a weird combination of relaxing and frustrating, and requiring a lot of time and patience. But worth it.

    I was thinking about taking some pictures of what it takes to adjust the timing chain in a Norton.

    How many steam locomotive engineers you think are left?
     
  41. markie

    markie Member

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    Schooter......?

    It would be interesting to see!
     
  42. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    Christmas comes early in Aus.
    New parts from mikes xs.
     
  43. markie

    markie Member

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    If father christmas brought me all those shiny new things, my wife would be asking me if I wanted a divorce!!!!

    I Just hope he brought Mrs Wiz a deep fat frier (Coronation Street joke).
     
  44. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    The Aus' $ has reached parity with the greenback & they're giving the stuff away, yippee.
     
  45. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    Step 1
    On a 36 hole xs wheel, there are 2 different spokes required per wheel. Look at the head of the spokes – you’ll see one spoke has a longer head. You’ll get 18 of each. Divide them up into 2 piles – 18 longer heads and 18 shorter heads. You’ll need the spokes with the short heads and the hub to start with, so put the others and rim aside.
    Step 2
    You’ll start on one side of the hub and put the spokes with the short heads into every other hole (starting with any hole)going from the outside of the hub toward the inside. Pull each spoke all the way through skip a hole and add the next. You’ll put in 9 on the first side. You have to do the same thing on the other side, but don’t flip the hub over to add the spokes yet. On the second side, you have to start from a specific place or your wheel will not go together correctly. Keeping your hub parallel to the ground (like resting on a bearing) with the spoked side up place one of the spokeheads at the 6:30 clock position. If you can envision a line dropping down from the spoke you”ll see there are holes on the other side of the hub at the 6:28 and 6:32 position, but not directly under 6:30. Make a mental note or mark the 6:28 hole. This is the one you’ll use to start the other side. Lace these spokes in the same way – use short heads and go from the outside in, skipping a hole each time. Push all the top side spokes counter clockwise and the lower spokes the opposite direction (clockwise)
    Step 3
    Now get your rim. Find the valve stem hole (It’s the big one). You will see next to the valve stem a pattern of spoke holes begins. The pattern is made up of 4 holes – left right left right (with both left holes facing each other and both right holes facing each other) Then the pattern begins again. On a 36 hole rim you can count this pattern 9 times and you end up back at the valve stem hole.
    Step 4
    With your hub again resting on its bearing and with top and bottom spokes going in opposite directions, carefully place the rim around the spokes and hub. Now is the time to look for your 4 hole pattern on the rim (you’ll see the pattern has 2 upper holes and 2 lower holes since the rim is resting on it’s side now. Of the 2 upper holes, find the one that appears to be facing the upper spokes. One will look like it lines up and one will look like it’s going the opposite way. Place a spoke into the hole that looks like it lines up and put on a nipple. Turn the nipple 2 turns once the threads engage. Go in order to the next spoke on the top and go over 4 holes on the rim (it’s the same hole in the next set of 4 pattern. Put a spoke in and tighten the nipple 2 turns. Finish all 9 spokes (2 turns per nipple)
    Step 5
    Do the other side (you can flip the wheel over if you want). Again, you’ll see that only one hole logically line up to these spokes – the one on it’s side of the rim and that faces it. Put these spokes in and tighten 2 turns.
    Step 6.
    Get those spokes with the longer heads. You’ll need them. Start on either side of the wheel and using any hole in that side of the hub, place a spoke through the hole from the inside out. You’ll turn this spoke so it goes in the opposite direction of the spokes that are also on this side of the rim. In other words, they’ll criss cross. You’re going to see (Hopefully) that this spoke will point to a hole in the rim on it’s side of the wheel. If you can’t figure out which hole that is, it’s 6 away from the spoke next to it that it criss crosses. Add a nipple and tighten it 2 turns. Finish this side of the rim by continuing this pattern.
    Step 7
    Now for the final side. You’ll only have holes on one side of the hub and every 4th hole on the rim. Place a spoke into a hole, go the opposite direction of the spokes on this side you’re working on and place it in the hole in the rim that is waiting for it. Add a nipple, tighten 2 turns. Put in the rest of the spoke the same way.
    Step 8
    Yes your spokes are VERY loose. Maybe even some nipples popped off because you thought you had them engaged, but later found them on the floor. Don’t worry, put them on and tighten 2 turns. It is CRITICAL (or just makes it WAY easier) to tighten them all the same amount. Go around the rim and tighten each spoke 6 turns. Still loose? Give each another turn or two. If you tighten them all the same amount, your wheel will be pretty true (straight). Get them good and tight. Adding some lube to the threads is a wonderful idea. They should squeak a little when you are getting tight enough.
    Step 9
    Now put the wheel in the jig & check it for alignment from side to side & up & down, if it needs adjustment, pick the spoke at the worst point, tighten to move it into line & adjust the 4 spokes either side, then move to the opposite side & slack slightly.
    When the wheel is true, use a drift & tap the spoke ends where they sit in the hub.
    Now tighten all the spokes equally 1 turn.
    Grind off any thread that might be showing past the nipple.
     
  46. waldo

    waldo Member

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    Nice Thanks for the how to.
     
  47. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    I've further simplified the lacing technique.
    Sit the hub on a paint can & loosly tape the spokes where they cross, keeping the ends roughly equal, when the rim is dropped over it's job done 5 mins' flat.
     
  48. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    your my hero Wiz
    did you read this before you started?
     
  49. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    Read it? I wrote it.
    Just had the tyres fitted & ballanced, what do ya know, no weights required. ;o)
     
  50. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    Wheels finished.....
     

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