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It finally stranded me.

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by tabaka45, May 15, 2019.

  1. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    when you take those screws out, if they don't cooperate, drill the punch mark on the edge of the screw with about a 3/16 drill till you go through the screw and just a bit into the aluminum. they come right out, then use blue lock tite to put then back
     
  2. tabaka45

    tabaka45 Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like a good idea. I was a little worried about using the extractor, but I used he smallest one I had and fortunately it came out. I used lock tite (blue) last time and so I'm not sure I want to use it again, at least not until I am sure it no longer leaks. I just hope that after thoroughly cleaning all the electrical connections, polishing the rotor and the inside of the stator, and replacing the brushes I get full voltage and no leaks. If so, I think that will solve the cold idle problem.
     
  3. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    do you use new screws and punch them? I guess this is a question for you and those who may know if it is required
     
  4. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    I did not punch mine to lock them in place. Blue Locktite should not have made it that hard to remove the screws. Perhaps the heads were already damaged, or made of cheese.
     
  5. tabaka45

    tabaka45 Well-Known Member

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    I simply tightened them and gave the one good rap with the impact driver to tighten then a little more. If the oil leak stops then I will remove them and add a small amount of blue Locktite. The screws I have look good. The one that I had problems with was on the spare engine.
     
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  6. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    That's what I thought, but I was a bit confused afer all the responses.
    Posting while packing up to move is a challenge.
     
  7. tabaka45

    tabaka45 Well-Known Member

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    Installed the new brushes and I now have 12.5 volts at idle, so that’s good. However, —there’s always a however it seems— when installing the brushes I discovered that one of the posts that the brushes slide in is broken and one side is missing. I guess I somehow broke that when removing the holder initially and did not realize it—just thought I broke the brush. So, when I try to rev it it boggs down. I assume that is because the brush is moving and messing with the timing or something. So, I am going to get a replacement and hope that solves the problem.,
     
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  8. Scott I

    Scott I New Member

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    I'm one of those goofs that put an inline autozone filter in and was stranded on the interstate for 45 min. Flow problem. Thought I ran out of gas. After a wait sufficient fuel returned to the carbs and I was able to drive to the gas station.
     
  9. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Primeline part number 7-02357 you can use the part number at any auto parts store to order them

    https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/how-to-install-a-fuel-filter.6352/#post-208637
    https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/inline-fuel-filter-longevity-alert.34020/
     
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  10. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    There are some rather nice (surprisingly) filters with sintered bronze elements and auminum housings avaialble from various sources on Ebay. I've been using one for about three years now. The advanage is that they do not have to be replaced each year like the filters with plastic housings.

    Proper routing eliminates the risk of air pockets, and the filter eliminates the risk for additional downtime due to crud entering the carbs. The way XJ tanks are constructed it is nearly impossible to keep them entirely rust-free without using a liner. A filter is cheap insurance, but you have to use the right type.
     
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  11. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    i use the semi-transparent plastic jobs with the plastic mesh, probably the worst ones there are, but i want to see in there.
    if i see a chunk in there i want to take care of why it's there before it's a bigger problem.
    drain the float bowls every time you change the oil, just to be sure and keep the drain screws free
     
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  12. Scott I

    Scott I New Member

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    A few of my drain screws were stripped when I purchased the machine years ago. Still haven't drilled them out. Yet another drilling project to look forward to someday.
     
  13. Jetfixer

    Jetfixer Well-Known Member

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    Soak float bowls with PB Blaster or Kroil , a impact driver will help as well or a propane torch heat bowl up. . After you get them out obtain new drain screws and put any sieze on the treads so this won't happen again.
     
  14. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    when you get them out, put these back in
    [​IMG]
     
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  15. tabaka45

    tabaka45 Well-Known Member

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    Switched out the black brush holder, installed the new brushes, cleaned everything with electrical cleaner and now I have between 12.3 and 12.4 volts at idle and it hits 14 volts at about 4000 rpm. So my electrical problem seems to be solved. Time will tell if the new alternator shaft flange will stop the oil leak I had with the old flange. In the process of doing all of this I also bought and installed the air box tube which was missing. It seems that it runs a little differently so I am wondering if that tube restricts air flow enough to require re-tuning and re-syncing.
     
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  16. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    I adjusted idle mixture and re-synched after installing the airbox tube. It was just a small tweak, but made enough of a difference to be worthwhile.
     
  17. tabaka45

    tabaka45 Well-Known Member

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    Figured I would do that this weekend. Thanks.
     
  18. tabaka45

    tabaka45 Well-Known Member

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    Rode it yesterday and it seemed to run fine until I made a hard leaning left hand turn and it dropped a cylinder. But corrected itself in about 150-200 feet after straightening up and ran well for the rest of the way home—about 1/2 mile. Added some sea foam this morning and went to top off the tank and after about a mile it dropped a cylinder again and it never came back. Got home and #3 exhaust is cold. Pulled the plug and it has a very good spark, so I am hoping that my fuel problem is just a sticking float and the sea foam will loosen it up, or it’s back into the carbs. It was running great before my electrical problem and I am surprised that a carb problem would pop up after sitting fo a little less than a month.
     
  19. Ryengoth

    Ryengoth Active Member Premium Member

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    sounds like float level to me. did you wet set the carbs level on the bench?
     
  20. tabaka45

    tabaka45 Well-Known Member

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    Float levels were set when I completely went through the carbs about 3 years ago. Included new seats and brass needles. I am hoping it just got a little sticky while sitting for a month, and that is why I am trying the Sea Foam.
     

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