Jetting problem xj 900 -85 / -93

Hey everyone, this is my first post, but probably not the last.

Just got my second xj 900, its a 1985 with a 1993 engine in it. Had an 1983 before, but had to sell it to get my trip to australia all paid for.

All seemed good when i got the bike, till i figured out its running lean. White plugs, and having trouble dropping between 3k and idle when warm.

Supposebly its been jetted down to meet emission regulations here in sweden. The 1993 carbs that is. But it has the 1985 full blow airbox. 98 to 84 hp i think what differs.

Anyone that knows whats been changed, and if this was done on any more markets than the swedish one. Think they had this strange stuff going on between 1991 and 1994.

And, where do i get t he right stuff to get my baby running as she should again ?

Thankful for all input.

 

Found this, but not sure if its right.

Jet sizes 84 -94

Starter jet 35
Pilot jet 40
Pilot air jet 160
Needle jet y-0

Jet needle 84 - 90
5fz62-3

91 - 94
5fz10-3

Main jet 84 - 90
107.5

91 - 94
100

Same on 83 - 94

Main air jet 45

As said before, any input is welcome

 

And from this interesting thread

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=1 ... retor.html

XJ900RK, RL, and XJ900P models:
- Mikuni model BS36 carbs
- Needle: 4HZ22 (900RK) or 4HZ26-3 (900RL and Police)
- Emulsion Tube/Needle Jet: Y-0 (style #318)


XJ900 58L, 2HL, 3NG1, 3NG2 models:
- Mikuni model BS36 carbs
- Needle: 5FZ62-3
- Emulsion Tube/Needle Jet: Y-0 (style #318)


XJ900 1991-94 4BB1, 4BB2 models:
- Mikuni model BS35 carbs
- Needle: 5FZ10-3
- Emulsion Tube/Needle Jet: Y-0 (style #318)

So i have 35mm insted of 36mm carbs. There goes my theory of changing needle. Good or bad, i dont really know.

Just had an old gpz 600 r, had those carbs of way to many times, so was hoping not to have to do the same this time. But, seems like im in for quite a bit of modding to get this the way i want.

No quick fixes, yeayeayea, i know.

107.5 main jets, seems like a good start. At a glance at least. What about clipping the needle then, and any basics on the mixture screw ?

 

And, same thread, even more confusing

Years & Models: 1984-90 XJ900 models 2HL, 3NG1, 3NG2
Carb Manufacturer: Mikuni
Carb Series: BS36
Carb Model ID: various
Main FUEL Jet Size: #107.5
Pilot FUEL Jet Size: #40
Main AIR Jet Size: #45 (non-removable, in carb throat)
Pilot AIR Jet Size: #160
AIR COMPENSATOR Jet Size: not used
Starter FUEL Jet Size: #35 (non-replaceable, in float bowl)
Main jet NEEDLE ID: #5FZ62-3
Main needle JET Size: #Y-0, style #318 (the main needle JET is also known as the "power valve" or "emulsion tube").
Float Valve Seat Size: 2.3mm, uses a shorter float valve needle and the needle is clipped to the float arm.
Fuel Level in float bowls: 5.0mm +/- 1mm (.197" +/- .039")
Idle RPM's: 1,100 rpms

Although not part of your carbs, your valve clearances should be considered as part of your "intake system", so here are those specs, too. Note that valve clearances should be measured with the engine "cold", meaning 70-degrees Fahrenheit or less:

Valve Clearance Intake: 0.11 - 0.15mm ( = 0.004 - 0.006")
Valve Clearance Exhaust: 0.16 - 0.20mm (= 0.006 - 0.008")


Years & Models: 1991-4 XJ900 models 4BB1, 4BB2
Carb Manufacturer: Mikuni
Carb Series: BS36
Carb Model ID: various
Main FUEL Jet Size: #100
Pilot FUEL Jet Size: #40
Main AIR Jet Size: #45 (non-removable, in carb throat)
Pilot AIR Jet Size: #160
AIR COMPENSATOR Jet Size: not used
Starter FUEL Jet Size: #35 (non-replaceable, in float bowl)
Main jet NEEDLE ID: #5FZ10-3
Main needle JET Size: #Y-0, style #318 (the main needle JET is also known as the "power valve" or "emulsion tube").
Fuel Level in float bowls: 5.0mm +/- 1mm (.197" +/- .039")
Idle RPM's: 1,100 rpms

Although not part of your carbs, your valve clearances should be considered as part of your "intake system", so here are those specs, too. Note that valve clearances should be measured with the engine "cold", meaning 70-degrees Fahrenheit or less:

Valve Clearance Intake: 0.11 - 0.15mm ( = 0.004 - 0.006")
Valve Clearance Exhaust: 0.16 - 0.20mm (= 0.006 - 0.008")


Is it Mikuni BS 36 or BS 35 on my bike ?

To make things even more confusing, needles, could anyone help me figure this one out ?

http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/Mikuni_J ... 121C37.cfm

 

Hey Gringo, the info you posted is not quite correct.............here is the correct info (from that same thread, but further down the page):


XJ900 Models:

Years & Models: 1983-4 XJ900RK/RL and XJ900P Police models
Carb Manufacturer: Mikuni
Carb Series: BS35
Carb Model ID: 31A00
Main FUEL Jet Size: #102.5
Pilot FUEL Jet Size: #40
Main AIR Jet Size: #45 (non-removable, in carb throat)
Pilot AIR Jet Size: #160
AIR COMPENSATOR Jet Size: not used
Starter FUEL Jet Size: #32.5 (non-replaceable, in float bowl)
Main jet NEEDLE ID: #4HZ22 (900RK) or 4HZ26-3 (900RL and Police)
Main needle JET Size: #Y-0, style #318 (the main needle JET is also known as the "power valve" or "emulsion tube").
Float Valve Seat Size: 2.0mm, uses a longer float valve needle and the needle is not clipped to the float arm.
Fuel Level in float bowls: 5.0mm +/- 1mm (.197" +/- .039")
Idle RPM's: 1,100 rpms

Although not part of your carbs, your valve clearances should be considered as part of your "intake system", so here are those specs, too. Note that valve clearances should be measured with the engine "cold", meaning 70-degrees Fahrenheit or less:

Valve Clearance Intake: 0.11 - 0.15mm ( = 0.004 - 0.006")
Valve Clearance Exhaust: 0.16 - 0.20mm (= 0.006 - 0.008")


Years & Models: XJ900 model 58L
Carb Manufacturer: Mikuni
Carb Series: BS36
Carb Model ID: 58L00
Main FUEL Jet Size: #107.5
Pilot FUEL Jet Size: #40
Main AIR Jet Size: #45 (non-removable, in carb throat)
Pilot AIR Jet Size: #160
AIR COMPENSATOR Jet Size: not used
Starter FUEL Jet Size: #35 (non-replaceable, in float bowl)
Main jet NEEDLE ID: #5FZ62-3
Main needle JET Size: #Y-0, style #318 (the main needle JET is also known as the "power valve" or "emulsion tube").
Float Valve Seat Size: 2.3mm, uses a shorter float valve needle and the needle is clipped to the float arm.
Fuel Level in float bowls: 5.0mm +/- 1mm (.118" +/- .039")
Idle RPM's: 1,050 rpms

Although not part of your carbs, your valve clearances should be considered as part of your "intake system", so here are those specs, too. Note that valve clearances should be measured with the engine "cold", meaning 70-degrees Fahrenheit or less:

Valve Clearance Intake: 0.11 - 0.15mm ( = 0.004 - 0.006")
Valve Clearance Exhaust: 0.16 - 0.20mm (= 0.006 - 0.008")


Years & Models: 1984-90 XJ900 models 2HL, 3NG1, 3NG2
Carb Manufacturer: Mikuni
Carb Series: BS36
Carb Model ID: various
Main FUEL Jet Size: #107.5
Pilot FUEL Jet Size: #40
Main AIR Jet Size: #45 (non-removable, in carb throat)
Pilot AIR Jet Size: #160
AIR COMPENSATOR Jet Size: not used
Starter FUEL Jet Size: #35 (non-replaceable, in float bowl)
Main jet NEEDLE ID: #5FZ62-3
Main needle JET Size: #Y-0, style #318 (the main needle JET is also known as the "power valve" or "emulsion tube").
Float Valve Seat Size: 2.3mm, uses a shorter float valve needle and the needle is clipped to the float arm.
Fuel Level in float bowls: 5.0mm +/- 1mm (.197" +/- .039")
Idle RPM's: 1,100 rpms

Although not part of your carbs, your valve clearances should be considered as part of your "intake system", so here are those specs, too. Note that valve clearances should be measured with the engine "cold", meaning 70-degrees Fahrenheit or less:

Valve Clearance Intake: 0.11 - 0.15mm ( = 0.004 - 0.006")
Valve Clearance Exhaust: 0.16 - 0.20mm (= 0.006 - 0.008")


Years & Models: 1991-4 XJ900 models 4BB1, 4BB2
Carb Manufacturer: Mikuni
Carb Series: BS36
Carb Model ID: various
Main FUEL Jet Size: #100
Pilot FUEL Jet Size: #40
Main AIR Jet Size: #45 (non-removable, in carb throat)
Pilot AIR Jet Size: #160
AIR COMPENSATOR Jet Size: not used
Starter FUEL Jet Size: #35 (non-replaceable, in float bowl)
Main jet NEEDLE ID: #5FZ10-3
Main needle JET Size: #Y-0, style #318 (the main needle JET is also known as the "power valve" or "emulsion tube").
Fuel Level in float bowls: 5.0mm +/- 1mm (.197" +/- .039")
Idle RPM's: 1,100 rpms

Although not part of your carbs, your valve clearances should be considered as part of your "intake system", so here are those specs, too. Note that valve clearances should be measured with the engine "cold", meaning 70-degrees Fahrenheit or less:

Valve Clearance Intake: 0.11 - 0.15mm ( = 0.004 - 0.006")
Valve Clearance Exhaust: 0.16 - 0.20mm (= 0.006 - 0.008")

 

Thanks chacal

So that sorts out prob number one. I have 36mm carbs, so they are the same.

For starters i need 4 mains 107.5.

Could i change em without removing the carbs, or im in for another nice weekend with bad words and stiff carb rubbers ?

So, question 2 :

Main jet NEEDLE ID: #5FZ10-3 <--1993 model
Main jet NEEDLE ID: #5FZ62-3 <-- 1995 model

Page with strange explanation
http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/Mikuni_J ... 121C37.cfm

Can i run em as is, or i need to change ?

Mixture 2 turns out ?

What clip on needle ?

Any tips on some european store selling those jets ? Or at least more informative name so my local dealer can order em.

Thanks a million, this is like heaven for an XJ lover.

Actually, i learner to ride on my brothers xj 650, like a million years ago, tried out almost all other bikes, but there is something special about an old classic XJ.

 

Found some info indicating that my needle aint adjustable. As well, seeing california specs on neeldes seem to have a lower number, normaly like 1 or 2 lower than standard. In this case, 52 numbers lower. Aint giving me a good feeling at all.

Could i compensate with a bigger pilot ?

Mixture screw, seems like its standard 2.5 turns.

 

This is what is in your future!

Needles are tricky things, which is why you have such complicated charts (such as the Mikuni taper chart on the motorcyclecarbs.com website that you linked to).

We do carry the 107.5 jets in stock.

The needles........no help on.

What needles are actually in the carbs you have? They have their "size" engraved onto the side of the needle shaft, just below the cap area. Do your needles have slots cut into the shaft to allow for different clip positions?

 

Sounds like i have some interesting hours ahed.

Pretty far from the bike now (600 km), so cant check about the needle. But after reading this link

http://www.docstoc.com/docs/31797349/Ca ... ikuni-BS36

The 5FZxx -3 indicates clip number 3, so it should be adjustable in other words. And needle height i can do just lifting the tank.

Lift it 2 notches up maybee, clip 5 from the top ?

Reading ur carb guide, 3 up in main would do one up in pilot, but no xj 900 has over 40 in pilot, but then i would be aiming at 107.5 and 42.

Just me being tired, or why cant i find the actual store ? Looked at ur link, but just geting a bunch of awesome guides.

Time to get those jets posted to sweden, what are we looking at, a week, a month ?

 

That links seems to be in regards to FJ1200 carbs, which, while they may also be the Mikuni BS36 series carbs, might be jetted completely different than the 900's.

Yes, the -X indicates that it is an adjustable height needle per specs; my question was: what is actually in your carbs? They may or may not be stock.....

I'm not sure that I give any information regarding needle clip positions as it relates to fuel jet sizes........the clip position merely changes where the "starting" point of the needle is; in other words, it "speeds up" the process of the needle rising in the main jet. It will not allow more fuel flow at wide-open throttle, but, it will typically allow more fuel flow at lower rpms.....and by how much, well, that depends on the needle taper (all those "seconds of taper" that was referred to in the Mikuni tech article).

Just you being tired! Try here:

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14561.html

About a week by priority mail, a bit longer if by slow-boat (first class mail).

However, before you order anything, I would advise that you do a complete inventory of what bit and pieces actually reside in your carbs:

Carb Model ID: (usually ink-stamped onto the bottom or sides of the carb bowls, or on the side of the carb bodies.........can be very difficult to read, and if the carbs have ever been rebuilt or "cleansed" on the exterior with a strong solvent, these marking may be gone completely).
Main fuel jet size:
Pilot fuel jet size:
Main air jet size:
Pilot air jet size:
Main jet size:
Main jet needle size:
Float valve opening size:


Although I realize it's a pain in the float bowl to open up the carbies just to ge this information, it may save you quite a bit of grief down the road. I believe you mentioned that the carbs had been modified already (to make it legal for Sweden), so an important bit of knowledge would revolve around "what has been changed?".

Also, just out of curiosity, how do you know it is a 1993 engine in the bike, and if so, are you sure it is a 900cc (891cc, actually) engine in it?

 

Hi Gringo (Tjena grabben

The-4BB (-90 to -94) differs from the 58L (-85 to -90) XJ900 by (apart from Chacals specs, which are all corect):

-92 Hp instead of 98

-different intake-duct in the airbox (smaller inlet-area - might be the same as in the 31a (-83 to -85) XJ 900 (Part# for the 4BB indicates this: 31A-14437-00)

- smaller "intake hole" in the bottom of the carbs´diaphragm piston (1mm as opposed to the 58L´s 2.3 mm)

- different mufflers, part#´s:-4BB: 32F-14711-00 and 32F-14721-00
-58L:31A-14721-00 and 31A-14711-00

Needles are 5-step adjustable and normally set in the midlle (step 3) position.

So I agree with Chacal (though, if your carbs are -93, the intake rubbers may still be flexible - check your carbs´ interior (good time to clean them as well) - but before you do that it might be a good idea to check fuel levels, pilot screws setting, syncronisation, false air etc.

If you find the 1mm hole in the carb piston and want it bored up, do try to (or find someone who can) hit the 2.3 mm (and not 2.5) as it will have an effect, acoording to this invaluable german XJ-forum: http://xjfahrer.diskutieren.net/

http://xjfahrer.diskutieren.net/ftopic3 ... light=loch

Main jets in carb bowls=removal necessary

Main jet NEEDLE ID: #5FZ62-3 = 58L= 1985-1990

Mixture 2,5 turns out - but you really need a colortune (or a very good ear) for setting them right

Jets/needles: http://www.mikuni-topham.de/

2007 prices (from a thread about changing -4BB to -58L carbs): http://xjfahrer.diskutieren.net/sutra25 ... 7922326169

"Die Hauptdüsen (Main Jets) N100604- kosten p.St. 3,32 EUR incl. MwSt.
Die Nadel (needle) J8-5FZ62 kostet p.St. 12,39 EUr incl. MwSt."

kör hårdt

 

Thanks everybody

Did the opening up today, and they looked as clean as new on the inside.

Think former owner had em cleaned to fingure out the same problem.

Reason i knowe about the engine, have a recipt from a wreckingyard on a -93 spare bike, engine number on that one, and matching with the one i have.

Had 100 in it, now they are 107.5, went out on my lunch to the local bike shop, and with this link from Alive i got the right sort without having to open it up before.

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=3690.html

Moved the clip so the needle runs one slot higher.

Just had time for a small spin, but runns a lot stronger.

Still have a problem with it dropping from 3000 down to idle when its heated up, but seemed like it worked better if i put the idle down from 1050 to 950, think i have to experiment a bit more tomorrow.

FinnoAngela, great stuff you sent over. Nice to hear that there is other around with the later model. Couldnt find that 1 mm hole you were talking about, there was one in the bottom where the nedle sits, but that one looked more like 2.3 than 1 mm to me. Could it be that i was looking in the wrong placce ?

My idle problem, could it be its running lean on the mixture screw seeing the problem is only between 1k and 3k ? Would i be turning it in or out to make it richer ?

Carbs are balanced like a week ago.

1 intake valve and 2 outlets are slightly off, but seems strange if that would affect the behaviour of the idle in such a way. Specially as its right between 1k and 3k.

Will fix valves as soon as i figure out where to get the proper tool. Still feeling a bit worried about sticking something into my cylilnder like in the zip tie methood. =/

 

Hi Gringo

Great if your carbs are clean (you checked the small filter screens on top of the float valve seats too ? and you got the right jets.

Did you check the needle #´s?

You looked the right place for the holes in the diaphragm slide pistons; if they are 2.3 mm, the piston/diapragm assy´s are from the -58L XJ900

If you have the right jets/needles, airbox intake duct and mufflers, you´re in for "normal" fault-finding regarding the idle/lean problem.

German Xj-forum moderator Olaf has these thoughts on (common) lean symptoms of the 900´s (translated by Google and me from German to english, so please bear with any oddities..:

"The pilot jet supplies about 30% of the overall gas. It is quite sufficient, by whitish plugs, to enrichen the idle mixture a bit (turning the screws out). Should this cause performance hesitation, try instead to raise the needles one clip.

In addition, unleaded gasoline, barely discoloures the plugs. Therefore, there is indeed Colortune. My XJ always had white electrodes and ran perfectly. If the mixture is too lean, the electrodes have small pimples (pickels, pitting).

What I often hear is that the floats/fuel level needs adjustment. Possibly the modern fuels have a different density than before. Even the floats suck a little gasoline, perhaps more with age and therefore become heavier. Slightly higher, or correcter float (fuel level) setting brings more than a richer setting."

Valve tool I think I got from Chacal, works good. Lots of unoriginal to get (MaxMC and Louis.de) but some report problems with getting at least the ones from louis.de to work..

 

In this thread, pic number 15, now it strikes me there is 2 holes there as well next to the actual needle.

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=3633.html

And then i found out how to insert pictures, so edited it in




Is it both of them that are supposed to be 2.3 mm, or just the one as far from the center as possible ? Only in the actual piston, or the hole is to go all the way trough the plate that holds the needle and to the inside of the diaphragm as well ?

The little screen, and the little hole, yepp, to do it right the first time, or do it again and again.

Seems like im in for more bad words and soft carb rubbers. Yea yea yea, were a few screws on top and bottom of the carbs that needed changing anyway.

About that 1 --> 2.3 mm hole, what would it do ?
My guess would be that the piston will be able to respond/move faster, and in that way, it would move down to idle faster ? or im all off there ?

Tried to translate the page from before about that, and think im getting this dude got some similar problems on low rpms.
"she ran around the bottom pretty hard and soft", is a strange translation, but bettter than the swedis one for sure.

http://translate.google.com/translate?j ... auto&tl=en

Needle number, was the standard one for -93 model.

"It is quite sufficient, by whitish plugs, to enrichen the idle mixture a bit (turning the screws out). Should this cause performance hesitation, try instead to raise the needles one clip."

Havnt been riding today, so no new plug readings, but for me that indicates that "performance hesitation" could read problems to drop down to idle.

If so, raising it to the highest clip could help ?

 

The latter, which permits connection between "outside air" (streaming through the carb from airbox through throttle valves through intake valves etc.) and the air above the diaphragm. The airstream "sucks out" airpressure through the hole, creating lower pressure above the diapragm - causing the piston (and the attached needle) to rise, allowing fuel to sucked up to be mixed with the streaming air .

?

The source of information:
http://xjfahrer.diskutieren.net/ftopic3 ... light=loch
reveals different opinions regarding the effect of the different hole-sizes - practical experience describes top speed being limited (170 km/h) before drilling hole from 1 to 2.3mm and this limitation being gone after that.

There´s no mention in the thread about problems related to on/off idle.

(Google translator may give you a rough insight in the text if you don´t read german)

You still have a per spec non-corresponding needle/main jet combination, then....

Don´t think so: According to
http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_p ... gines.html

needle height/clip position generally affects mid range performance

- whereas the mixture screws (assuming everything else is ok!) a.o.:

"If the throttle is lightly "blipped" at idle, and the rpm "hangs up" before dropping to the set idle speed, and there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is set at less than 1000 rpm, the mixture screws are probably too lean: try 1/2 turn out, to richen mixture. Be sure there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is set at less than 1000 rpm!"

You really have to rule out a number of possible issues, before being able to control the mixture. You have one unknown in your needle/main jet combination but apart from that:

- fuel levels
- possible intake leaks
- Mixture screw settings
- diaphragm piston movement: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=1 ... clunk.html

and possibly others...

No easy way around carbs, really... :roll:

 

Thanks, that was a good one about mixture and carb settings. The diaphragm one im still in denial about. At least until i get the new needles. The german mikuni page you showed me before, they are on vacation till the 5th of august. So ill do the 2.3 mm holes, and needles at the same time as i polish up the pistons and clean the little filter in the float bowl.

Well, statusupdate about the bike.

Took her for a bigger spin this evening.

The thing about idle, and getting stuck, is still there, when warm. And plugs are still white. That would indicate lean on low, right ?

Half a turn out could, in a perfect world, fix that.

Got another theory that its the clutch sticking around there, as its better movement when im standing still and reving than just pulling in the clutch when riding.

A kind of splutter around 5k and up, could be its running lean cuz of the smaller holes, slower movement of the piston, or it is, as indicated in the cv carb tuning link, that the needle clip is set to low, and its getting rich there.

Top speed above 180, had to brake to make the off ramp on the highway, but there were plenty more to go, and loads of torque, so it made difference, thats for sure.

Leaks is checked fore, did the starter fluid test on the carbs and rubbers before i opened em up friday.

Another question on the 2.3 mm hole, now i know witch one it is, but the plate/spacer on the inside holding the needle down, does that one have the right size already, or i have to open that one up as well ?

Gonna strip the bike down this winter, was a big black n red pinchler full faring on it, with speakers and a casett deck, in decent shape, some small cracks on it, but fresh windscreen and a radio antenna for the back. Thinking of putting back the standard round headlight. So if anyone wanna trade it for a pair of black leather saddlebags and some small turnsignals im up for it. Tough, postage will probably be a killer so anything close to malmö / copenhagen would be prefeared.

 

About the clutch: Had issues with revs when shifting on the Maxim. Turned out the clutch cable was so filled with old gunk it took me 2 days to free it up with engine cleaner.

My plates inside the diaphragm pistons had 4 identical holes (2 of them for the screws). all well above 2.3 mm diameter.

"standard round headligt" - as in a naked bike?

My favourite place for XJ900 parts is the Ebay.de. Shipping to Denmark is usually Eur 17.- (I just missed a fairing/headlight/holder/blinker assy that went for Eur 56.- :roll:
Also the aforementioned XJ-fahrer forum has for sale foras for the different XJ´s: http://xjfahrer.diskutieren.net/forum28 ... a80079a614

(and came to think of: Instead of 4 -58L needles at 50-60EUR+shipping, I would consider finding a spare -58L carb rack, usually for sale at about 100EUR. There´s one here in Hamburg ("1 Vergaserbank komplett (58L) 100,- Euro "): http://xjfahrer.diskutieren.net/ftopic7656.html - that way You´ll have either nice spare parts (carb diaphragm are known to wear out with pinholes/tears sooner or later etc. - or your -4BB rack to sell)

 

Thanks for info.

Been looking at carb racks, but havnt found any that would match. The one u linked to seems to be sold.

Prices here on carbs, used ones, would probably be as denmark, real expensive. So ill go the short, and probably more expensive way of just ordering needles from germany.

Been in contact with the former owner, and sadly it seems he got rid of the old parts, had a small hope he would still have the -85 carbs, but no.

Naked bike, o yea. Plan is to rough it up a bit. A little mad max old school workhorse kinda thing. Leather saddlebags, big round front headlight. Got the naked bike style steering already.

Was looking at a xj 900 in malmö some years ago that had gotten a bunch of sportster parts on it, was a real evil looking machine, and been in my head ever since. Well, lets see how mutch money i have left after this summer to put inti it.

Thinking of looking for a good place to hide the 9volt output so i still can charge my cell phone for the long runs, but thats about as creative as i will get.

 

Ok, been a while, so status update

Did the change of main jets to 107.5. Ran good for starters, but then it started to loose top end. Was late in the season, so yea, just put it in and put it on to do account.

Took the carbs of the other day and had em drilled to 2.3 mm. When i was turning em upside down to drain em i heard the sound of something loose. Opended em up, and yea. There was a main jet that wasnt where it was supposed to be.

So, put that one back in, and put the "real" needles in em.

Did a messu p when i didnt take picks of it before i took it off. Bit unsure about the top of the carbs, where are the different cable holders supposed to be, and for what ?

Next question, to loosen the float bowls, how do i get em off. Tried a little force to the pin holding em , but didnt move. use more force, or there is some trick to it ?