Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Max 700-X, Feb 24, 2021.
Congrats and enjoy!
Thanks, still have a ways to go but it was a nice day for a picture. (it's come a long way in a short time)
I like the black concept, thought about doing this to one of my previous X's. Actually 2 part bikes that I wanted to merge into one good bike. Never got it of the ground due to lack of time and ended op selling them... Seeing your project makes me regret
Thanks for the compliments, mine didn't have original paint left, so it made the decision easy to paint it the color I liked.
Now that I got the carbs reinstalled and the engine running, I m trying to tackle the non-charging issue. I swapped out the rectifier, hoping for a quick win, but no such luck.
A previous owner attached each wire into the rectifier harness using spade connectors. I have a total of seven wires from the bike going into the rectifier harness (four on one side, and three on the other). Since swapping rectifiers didn't work, I decided to pull the stator cover off. The attached picture shows what I have. As you can see, it's been tinkered with before. The brushes inside look fairly new and its harness looks decent, but the three white wires (going to the rectifier harness) need troubleshooting.
First, is there a way to check these white wires to see if good?
Secondly, does anyone have a diagram of the wiring harness that plugs into the rectifier so I can see if a previous owner even had them wired correctly?
-So far, nothing has been an easy fix. Thanks
Hope this can help.
I hope I'm not violating any law or forum rules by posting these pages...
Great information 866, the testing procedures and specs were very helpful.
So I removed the wire extension someone added to the stator coil, cut back to good wire on all white wires and added new connectors and shrink tubing. I then retested and got the following readings:
W1 - W2=.4 Ohms
W1 - W3=.5 Ohms
W2 - W3=.4 Ohms
Later today I will clean and test the field coil. Thanks again!!
Glad I could help you!
It certainly did, it even provided the way for me to test the diodes in the original rectifier....which tested good. Hopefully the fix is either a bad connection/loose wire somewhere. I still need to clean/test the field coil....
Field coil cleaned and tested good at 3.9 - 4.0 Ohms, however while looking at the wires going to the battery, I found a brown wire attached to the negative terminal but just hanging loose on the other end.
Things that make you go "hmmm"
Doesn't make you happy... Electronics aren't really my thing, looks like someone has been messing around...
Victory! After disassembly, cleaning, wiring repair, testing and reassembly, I having a working charging system on Max.
The bike has been starting well, all cylinders are firing, and I'm no longer working just off the battery. Now I need to lubricate the clutch cable and adjust accordingly.
I also want to look into the fan switch upgrade that turns it on sooner.
Congrats, must be a good feeling!
So after getting the charging system operational again, I got the battery box, battery and wires all neatly back in place. Let the bike run to get some temp in the engine and tested voltage again; all good. However, up until now I always turned the bike off before the temp gauge got to the red, but after reading some past threads it appears the fan doesn't cut on until the needle is in the red zone.
Well, my fan didn't come on, so now I'm troubleshooting this fan issue. I found both wires to the thermoswitch (brown and blue) and tested. With the key on, I don't have voltage to the brown wire. Fuses in the dash look good however.
Question: anyone know which fuse the brown wire gets voltage from?
(I'm guessing a break or bad connection between the fuse to the brown wire?)
Your manual and wiring diagrams...
Found the wiring diagram. A bad connection looks to have caused the issue. Brown wire going to thermoswitch now has voltage.
To test the fan, would I jumper the blue & brown wires? Where is the fan motor ground wire?
Yes. The positive "brown" will be used to jump the blue wire with the key on.
The ground "black" follows the harness and is through the mounting bolt of the thermostat housing, which is bolted to the frames main downtube (under the fuel tank).
Here's an old thread on the mod: