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new battery or something more serious

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by pauldale999, Apr 21, 2019.

  1. pauldale999

    pauldale999 Active Member

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    Thanks Rooster
    This is very helpful.
    A week after I bought the bike I had to send it back under warranty because it just wouldn't start or even turn over.
    Tried everything in my knowledge at the time and even had my ex-mechanic friend scratching his head in bewilderment.
    They returned the bike fixed, and I noticed that what they had done was replaced the main fuse compartment in the still existing original fuse box, with a externally wired one, next to it, a big glass fuse within a transparent plastic case, held together with a metal clip?
    Don't know if this has anything to do with it but I'll send a photo for your perusal.
    Meanwhile I will study what you have sent and carry out the new procedures (where I can) and report back.
    I don't receive the stator till later this week however.

    Thank you very much for your valuable, continuous support.

    Regards.
     
  2. pauldale999

    pauldale999 Active Member

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    Just received my replacement stator.
    At what Ohm setting should meter be at to test the part whilst OFF the machine, and what should the readings be please?
    Enclose a pic of my fusebox, with the replacement ignition(?)/signal fuse
    Regards
     

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  3. Rooster53

    Rooster53 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    The meter should be set to the lowest available scale, which is usually 200 ohms for a DMM. The actual spec is .46 ohms +/- 10%. It is not uncommon to read slightly higher but certainly should not be in the 2 ohm range that you measured earlier with the original.

    That fuse box needs to go even if it is not currently causing a problem - it looks original except for the one repair and is likely to cause issues in the future.

    https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/how-to-install-an-aftermarket-fuse-box.6350/
     
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  4. pauldale999

    pauldale999 Active Member

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    I'm still getting readings of 01.8 - 02.1ohms on the replacement stator, tested OFF the bike.
    I enclose pic of how my meter is set, to achieve these results.
    Have I got the meter set right, and if not could you please correct me with pic?
     

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  5. pauldale999

    pauldale999 Active Member

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    Pic with digital reading on screen before testing
     

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  6. Rooster53

    Rooster53 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    The meter is set correctly, although the leads are reversed which won't affect resistance reading but could confuse you on voltage readings. What is the reading on the meter when set to that scale when the leads are touched together? It should display something in the order of .1 or .2 ohms.
     
  7. pauldale999

    pauldale999 Active Member

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    It has '1' displayed. Can't remove that when touching electrodes together.
     
  8. Rooster53

    Rooster53 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Well, the one (overload or open) should go away when the leads are touched together and the display should change to either zero, or at worst case .1 or .2 ohms. Most of my meters are auto select, but this one is what you should get on your meter when the leads are touched together.
    upload_2019-5-18_11-26-43.png
     
  9. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Might be that he has a bad lead.
     
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  10. pauldale999

    pauldale999 Active Member

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    Yes, I am starting off with the 1. (when set to the 2k ohms setting).
    If I set it to the 200 setting, I get 1 . showing.
    Tested my still uninstalled replacement stator (3-point), at the 200 setting and get 02.8, 03.3 etc. (and more!)
    When I test it at the 2k setting, get 0.4, 0.5, 0.4, which Haynes says is correct resistance for stator (this is with the unit off the bike)
    I'll test the resistance of my units on the bike at that setting (2k), and see what results are forthcoming. (with ignition OFF)
    Meanwhile, I've just had to do new vac-sync, because when I changed the headlamp bulb down to a 55w, the idling at temperature went up to 1400rpm.
    I assume this is because the 55w bulb is putting less load on the system, and therefore running rpm's go up(?)
    Will report back later on results.

    I am just off to a fabricator's to get a quote on an stainless custom made exhaust system, (minus the collector box) because I am fed up to my eyeballs of having to replace the used collector box every couple of years ($200 including postage from USA), and downpipes ($40, used, each) because of the salt on the roads over here in winter. I even sprayed with $20 'protector', to no avail.

    Laters..........

    Regards.
     
  11. Rooster53

    Rooster53 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    That setting will not work with the expected low resistance of about .46 ohms. With the meter set to 2K you should see a reading of .000 displayed. Perhaps you can find another meter to do your testing with, as I doubt that you have two bad stators as indicated by the measurements on the 200 ohm setting. Defective leads as k-moe suggested are a definite possibility for the higher than normal readings.
     
  12. pauldale999

    pauldale999 Active Member

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    There is a break in the positive lead. I enclose photos. Can I get any readings off the new leads I've just bought? (pic enclosed of them)
    I have taken the old stator off, and taken readings etc. but can't be sure of their accuracy now I've ascertained a broken positive lead.
    The brushes look ok, you can see the wear limit on the pics.
    There was a slight amount of oil coming out of the bottom of the rotor pan - is this normal?
    Meanwhile, I'll send for a new set of leads.
    I've got a feeling it may be the rotor itself.

    Thanks for your help.

    Regards.
     

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  13. Chitwood

    Chitwood Well-Known Member

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    Not sure about you meter leads but the oil seal behind the rotor is leaking. Now may be the time to pull the rotor to replace the seal. Then clean up the rotor faces(where the brushes contact) with a hard eraser and some electrical cleaner. Then once you have the oil seal fixed, rotor cleaned, and meter leads fixed(or a borrowed known good meter) you can begin testing again to hopefully be able to pin point your charging issue
     
  14. pauldale999

    pauldale999 Active Member

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    Thanks Chitwood.
    I'll send for the necessary removal stuff and engage with that ASAP
    Just installed replacement stator and bike restarted and idled ok
    Obviously no chance of any readings on that til later this week, but the rotor issue takes priority anyway
    Any other observations appreciated
    Regards
     
  15. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    this has got nothing to do with vacuum sync
     
  16. pauldale999

    pauldale999 Active Member

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    Well I observed that when I had the 100w bulb in, and I turned it On, (and the charging system was working to some degree)? the rpm's would come down about 100, from 1200 to 1100, idle at running temperature.
    When I replaced it with the 55w, (and with the now potential charging issue), it idled at 1400, and I did not have enough adjustment left on the idle control wheel, so I adjusted it down by the centre screw between the #s 2 and 3 carbs.
    Thought I'd tweak the vac sync while I was at it cos it was slightly out.
    There may very well be a vac leak somewhere (probably on one or two of the manifold boots, where historical inner tube repairs have now come off?), but it's just how I've chosen to manage it, til I take the carbs off again, and address the boot issues.
    Receive 16mm metric fine bolt tomorrow to remove the rotor and have a look behind to replace the oil seal.
    How is this part listed? Is it rotor shaft oil seal (which I cannot find listed)
    Or is it 'left hand crankshaft oil seal'? of which I have found listed for the Maxim?

    Regards
     
  17. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    something's not right, the idle knob should close all the butterflies and stop the engine.
     
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  18. pauldale999

    pauldale999 Active Member

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    That's correct Polock. It does that. I overreacted with the vacsync a little, just to give myself a little bit more adjustment down on the knob itself
    Regards
     
  19. pauldale999

    pauldale999 Active Member

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    Using new leads on meter, results with replacement stator (and rectifier) on last Wednesday across battery electrodes. (battery only charged up to 12.1v)
    Idling: 12.3v.......up to 2000rpm: 12.7v, ..... up to 4000rpm: 13.3v (light ON)

    Yesterday, removed alternator, and meticulously cleaned it, and the shaft of any oil debris etc. (pics enclosed) Visually, the rotor looked ok to me, no burn marks, just a bit of shellac(?) missing from part of the wiring in one place. The oil seal at the back of the shaft, looked new. (I've got a new one, if I need to install it)
    Meticulously cleaned the brush system also, and the rotor shaft cover plate of all crud.
    Put it all back together, and checked across the fully recharged battery, ignition OFF: 12.95v
    Engine ON, light ON, idling at 1100rpm: 14.63v..........2000rpm: 15.03v........4000rpm: 15.15v (are these readings too high, or just right for a GEL battery)

    Took rotor cover off today, and using new leads for meter, measured ohmage across the two copper rings (with the ohms at the '200' setting, as advised)
    The only two readings, that I could get were between 05.1, and 05.4 (ohms?), apart from the usual 10/11.6 to 15.3 etc, and flying off the end of the scale sometimes!??

    Took readings of the 3-point stator block, and erratic once again, but did get 01.4 to 01.6 displaying the most

    When similar on the 2-point brush/rotor block connector, the most displaying was 16.9 - 17.4, although it did flash once or twice, on the 3.8 - 4.6 briefly, then go off on it's own tangent again, up and up.....

    Got a feeling that the stator is about right now(?), but there may still be an issue with the rotor/alternator?

    Seems to be charging though (?) - just tested again, across the battery and here's the results:
    Ignition off: 12.8v
    Ignition on, light on, idling at 1050: 12.6v
    Rpm's at 2000: 14.8v
    Rpm's at 4000: 15.01v

    Any observations from my latest tests please.........?
     

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  20. pauldale999

    pauldale999 Active Member

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    ps: forgot to mention, the stator was meticulously cleaned also~!
     

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