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New bike, new to forum, bike that will not idle

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Ryangh23, Jun 24, 2016.

  1. Ryangh23

    Ryangh23 Member

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    Okay, thanks. Can I remove the seal without removing the metal spacer first? I've put vice grips on it (the spacer) and pulled but it isn't going anywhere. I put some pb blaster on it and I'll try again tomorrow, but I'm not holding my breath. It doesn't appear like it fits over the splines of the sprocket. When I try to rotate it, it rotates the entire countershaft.
     
  2. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Looking at the fische and the service manual....well I'm not sure.
    It looks to me like the spacer has to be able to come off of the shaft. There is an o-ring behind it, which seals the spacer to the shaft so that the oil seal can seal against the spacer and not have any leaks.
     
  3. Ryangh23

    Ryangh23 Member

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    I got the seal off. I was able to fit a small screwdriver near the shaft and seal.
    IMG_1263.JPG

    Even with the seal off, that spacer won't come off. I'm guess it must be slid off the other way when the engine is apart.
    IMG_1265.JPG

    Without replacing that o-ring, do you think my new seal will still leak?
     
  4. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    I don't see how it could, the splines for the internal gear appear to be larger than the outboard side of the shaft.

    http://www.yamahapartsnation.com/oemparts/a/yam/50042356f8700209bc7879c1/transmission-xj550h-j-k

    I doubt that the o-ring would be leaking since the spacer is corroded to the shaft. It's probably never moved. The o-ring looks to seal against the spacer and the inner bearing race, so it rotates with the shaft.

    Looking at your pictures closely the spacer is definitely rusted to the shaft. I can see the telltales of that, and that the spacer was machined to be a slip-fit over the splines.

    I'd dress the outer diameter of the spacer with some 1,000 grit or higher finishing paper, and install the seal.
     
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  5. Ryangh23

    Ryangh23 Member

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    Sounds like a plan. Thanks K-Moe
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2016
  6. DrewUth

    DrewUth Active Member

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    It will come out. Grab it with some channel locks. Apply some heat gently if its stubborn. It will slide off.
     
  7. Ryangh23

    Ryangh23 Member

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    Is it worth it to try? I'm afraid to damage that spacer or the splines, especially if it's not going to leak anyways.
     
  8. MiGhost

    MiGhost Well-Known Member

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    It is clear by the second pic that the o-ring behind the spacer is not leaking (inside of the spline still dry). There is no reason to force the spacer off possibly creating more problems. Grabbing the spacer with pliers, channel locks, vice grips, etc.. could leave a rough surface that would chew up the new seal instantly.

    Polish the spacer as suggested.

    ~Ghost
     
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  9. DrewUth

    DrewUth Active Member

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    I assure you, the metal the spacer is made from is MUCH harder than that of a common pair of channel locks. You wont even scratch it.

    That being said, if you don't want to remove it, then you surely can proceed as Kmoe suggested.
     
  10. MiGhost

    MiGhost Well-Known Member

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    I assure you that I can, and have scratched these metal spacers with common pliers, channel locks etc... They are not as hard as you think.
    I would suggest sliding a socket/pipe over the splines using a hammer to tap it. Breaking it free of the rust first.

    You have no clue what someone else is capable of doing.
    Suggesting using heat around exposed oil? The first thing an inexperienced person is going to do is grab a torch and set the oil and bike on fire!!

    ~Ghost
     
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  11. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    the o-ring behind the spacer would be to keep oil from comming out. the way the seal is shaped, it keeps dirt from going in.
    it's probably already marked, try tapping it in to break it free, then pull it off
    oily steel shafts are really hard to set on fire but that bearing is too close for a bernz-o-matic type torch
     
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  12. DrewUth

    DrewUth Active Member

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    lol, fire. Right.

    The fact that I am not a "well-known member" does not mean I am inexperienced, or even less experienced than you. There is life outside of xjbikes....

    A little heat would hurt nothing but the bond the rust has created. Hell, a heat gun would be more than adequate if open flames are scary.
     
  13. Ryangh23

    Ryangh23 Member

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    Thanks for the info everyone. I'm just going to leave the spacer be for now. If it is leaking down the road, then I'll worry about getting the spacer off to replace the o-ring. If things get ugly, it looks like I can get a whole new (used) countershaft assembly for less than $25 on eBay and I'll rob a spacer from that if I mangle mine.
     
  14. Ryangh23

    Ryangh23 Member

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    Hey guys, still leaking some oil. I think it may be the shifter seal. Should I be able to spin this seal the Allen wrench is pointing at super easily?
    IMG_1279.JPG
     
  15. Ryangh23

    Ryangh23 Member

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    Also, is this an oil gallery bolt? Are these replaceable? I think it's leaking too IMG_1280.JPG

    One last question. Here lately when trying to start, it takes multiple times of pressing the starter button. Pushing the button will do nothing, the starter doesn't try to go at all. The oil level light turns on when pressing it, so I don't think it's an issue with the ground from the button. I have to turn the key on and off multiple times sometimes before it will finally go. Flipping the kill switch doesn't seem to do anything. When the starter actually engages it fires right up. Any ideas on what to check?
     
  16. Ryangh23

    Ryangh23 Member

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    Disregard that first question, after consulting the manual I learned that is just a washer. (Perhaps that's what is wrong with my generation, quicker to ask the internet than to read a book).

    But I do think the seal behind that washer is leaking.
     

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