New LED Head Light - casuing issues

speaking of headlights, could these be any good at this price?
https://youngstown.craigslist.org/mpo/6018169928.html
their close enough, i might have to check them out

 

seems interesting............

 

Here are a few things about this project;

The circuit board components are epoxied in place. Any attempt to remove a component will destroy it. I originally wanted to make a new coil for the reed switch to get it to close at a lower current. They are single wound coils and replacing with a 3 layer coil should have reduced the trip current. It is possible but the reed switches are glass and will break if removed. He did not want to go through the time and expense. I found the reed switched for just a couple bucks but the time to do it was not there.

Adding load to the headlight with resistors will work but negates the current savings of the LED.
Adding load to the headlight with running lights was also discussed but the current draw of the LED headlight and LED running lights was not enough to trip the sensors.
We decided to add the jumpers as a quick and easy solution. The wires were brought out of the LCD panel and routed to the headlight bucket so if needed in the future they can be cut and normal function of the LCD panel restored. The wires were labeled and noted as such during reassembly.

 

But those won't fit into the square hole.

It can be done, but with great care using a temp controlled heat gun or a soldering iron to soften the epoxy for removal. Not sure it is worth the effort though and all attempts will not be successful.

Did you try to do any measurements to see at what current value the reed tripped? I know the two I have tested will trip at just above 1 amp. It the CCA you had was the same, then the high beam wattage of the OP's bulb (18/12 = 1.5 amps) should have worked. It could not be done as a standalone test though since both nodes must be taken low - bike switched to high beam and a load resistor (value debatable but quite high) on the low beam side. The point of the load resistor in this case on the low beam side is not to trip the reed relay but to simply sink enough current to fool the filament check.

Using an LED running light would add very little current (approx. .1 amps) so it would do little to obtaining enough current for setting the reed switch.

 

The magnetic reed switches on the board are made from thin glass . Any attempt to remove epoxy from them will break them. I have tried in the past on other projects.

No we did not actually measure the current needed to trip . I don't have a low resistance high wattage pot to do that. We did estimate the needed current and it was just above 2A but under 2.5 for both high and low. The LED bulb was 1.4A adding a load of 25ohm(.56A) did not trip, but adding a 12.5ohm( 1.2A) did.

 

Post expired

 

So by adding a magnet on top of Reed swith might work ? So I am assuming I'll have 2 disassemble the control head and figure out which ones do the job hey anybody got any pictures

 

You do have to dissemble the unit and remove the circuit board and yes a magnet will work but keeping it in place is not easy. I found that the magnet has to be almost touching the switch to activate it. The circuit board has to come out of the enclosure for the jumper or magnet so it's easier just to solder a jumper wire on the switch.
The headlight reed switches are the ones on the far left on the circuit board. There are 2 more in the center , they are for the taillight. Look at the pic posted by Rooster53 on the first page, it shows the switches.

 

Seca CMS, it employs two reed switches for the headlight and current sense resistors for the brake and tail light.



Maxim CMS, it uses four reed switches, two for the headlights and two for the brake and tail light.



I should be able to post more later today, going next door to help a neighbor with electrical issues on his 2003 BIG DOG. Just like a Harley, everything on it vibrates loose, even to the point of breaking the smaller wired connections on the battery.

And, I still believe you can keep the functionality of the CMS excepting the filament check, and no need to take it apart.

 

How would one go about replacing the original turn signals with leds?
Are they plug and go or do you have to do modifications?

 

Definitely not plug and play.

From: http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/the-ultimate-relay-switch-sensor-and-diodes-guide.27543/

Turn Signal Flasher Relay:

NOTE: all XJ700 models and XJ750-X models use a consolidated relay assembly (mounted under and to the rear of the fuel tank, on the wishbone frame triple-tube joint) which combines the turn signal flasher, the turn signal canceller relay unit, and the starter circuit cut-off relay.

Since the flasher relay portion of the above module is designed to work with 27W bulbs, you would have to modify the harness to add a non load dependent flasher and go further (another relay) if you want to keep the self cancelling feature that is also built into the module. Load resistors are an option, but negates the power savings of the LED bulb. All that and also keeping the original module for the purpose of the Starter Circuit Cutoff Relay.

 

how about removing the auto cancel unit and adding a simple RC circuit that charges a cap, discharges via a discharge resistor and triggers the base of a transistor to get the right time delay on the led flasher unit. same principal as the a cabin light delay circuit.
Open the door, charges the cap and turns the light on, close the door and the light stays on until the cap discharges via the resistor.

 

Sorry getting confused with different conversations I love your post I will give it to my electrician to help me figure it out ps I have extra ones if you want me to send you one that you can modify I'll be happy to just saying good looking out bro how much

 

Getting confused with all these posts I'm not used to this form or the format on how to post and reply to a post leaving messages in the wrong spot other people's bikes confusing with mine I guess I'm getting old as old as this damn bike lol I got a few controllers I'd be happy to send you if you want to modify them ??

 

That would be fine, and do you mean by controllers the Computer Monitoring System (CMS)? I don't really need the controllers except maybe to add the bullet connectors to the H4 connector, or if you are also interested in running with LED brake and tail LED that requires a mod to the CMS circuit card. I will send you a PM also.

 

want to get confused try the facebook pages