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New rider and new member

Discussion in 'Hangout Lounge' started by Adkride88, May 8, 2022.

  1. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

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    Man am I glad I found this place. I picked up not only my first XJ bike, but my first bike period yesterday. Its an 82 XJ650 Maxim that the previous owner said had not run in probably 15 years. He rode it for a bit, then gave to his wife when he got a new/bigger bike. She rode for a bit and it eventually ended up in one of their garages, forgotten. He said he'd actually forgotten they even owned it.

    Flash forward to yesterday, and my I got my father in law to go with me (I don't have a truck, and he does) on the ~5hr round trip to get it. $450 later and its mine. It turned over and wanted to start but didn't. I didn't do a real deep dive on it there, and now I'm working on fixing up all I've found actually needs to be done.

    Carb rebuild. Gas tank rusted (and has hole on one side, rust spot in same location on the other, 15 years of condensation in an uninsulated garage)- thankfully I know some welders. Want to replace levers, cables, brake/fuel lines. Brake rebuilds. Exhaust pipes have cracks in low points from rust (that condensation during storage is gonna be my nemesis with this bike). Fuse box. Few other little things up front too... I'm very excited though. I'm really glad I found this forum. I've always found that forums far supersede things like Facebook in terms of quality and quantity of information. Modern social media just can't match a good forum. There seems to be a LOT of great guides, both text and video on here. I'm sure as I go through everything to get this bike running I will use many of them.
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2022
  2. Fuller56

    Fuller56 Active Member

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    Welcome to the Collective/Asylum! Where "Upstate"? There are a bunch of us around that understand upstate vs NYC. Have you considered coming to Hogfiddles Central NY Carburetor Clinic on June 11? He is about 1/2 between Norwich and Utica. Check out
    CNYCC#15 - Saturday June 11, 2022.
     
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  3. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

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    Heh, we were in Utica today with our daughter at the zoo. We're from around Saratoga.

    I've never even heard of the Carburetor Clinic. I'll have to check that out. I won't lie I'm probably far more confident in my skills to get this running than I should be, but until I'm proven wrong I'm going to keep at it. Between YouTube and guides like on here I'm finding it's not too terrible to tear her down and get parts out to clean and fix. Seeing the state it was in I am debating if I should be opening the crank case even and cleaning the whole thing before riding. I am hoping to have it running inside the next month so it's highly ambitious.
     
  4. Huntchuks

    Huntchuks Well-Known Member

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    You might be able to get away with draining the oil, filling with fresh, adding Sea Foam to oil and running for 100 mi. before doing another oil change. Of course all this after getting it running. If not ride worthy by June 11, consider borrowing the truck or father in law and bringing the bike to the Carb Clinic.
     
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  5. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

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    I've heard about using transmission fluid in engines that have been off for a long time. I haven't even cracked it open to see if there's oil in it at all yet, have been working top down. Should I fill and flush engine with oil, transmission fluid, etc before doing the seafoam run?

    It does turn over, tries to start, so it's not seized up which is nice. I didnt know if I should consider opening and cleaning the whole thing up, or saving that bit for a winter project in the garage.

    The carbs are rough. I wasn't going to split them, but I think I really should at this point to really get them clean and lubed properly. Waiting on kit to come to get them rebuilt. And the ultrasonic cleaner I just ordered.
     
  6. Huntchuks

    Huntchuks Well-Known Member

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    Transmission fluid/acetone mix in each cylinder can help free up rings if compression is low due to the rings being stuck. About a teaspoon in the plug hole.
    Since you son't know how old or dirty or broken down the oil is, drain it. If it were me I would not change the filter until running the oil/sea foam mixture. Then do a full oil change with new filter.
    The carb rack needs to be broken so that the throttle shafts seals can be inspected /replaced. It's a bummer cleaning the carbs and then having air leaks around bad seals on the throttle shafts.
     
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  7. Dan Gardner

    Dan Gardner Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    If you are feeling ambitious about cleaning the engine out, I would start with just cleaning out the sump (oil pan).

    My experience has been that the sludge all settles down there.

    What I would do, for what it is worth, is get a new oil pan gasket, remove the oil pan, clean out the layer of goo that you find in there, and then proceed with the flush of clean oil + some sort of solvent like @Huntchuks said.

    I'm not positive if you can drop the oil pan without taking out the engine. You would at least have to remove the exhaust.

    If you are not removing the engine for some other purpose, then it is probably not worth it. Just do the clean oil + solvent flush, then put in clean oil, and it should be fine.

    Don't forget to change the gear oil in the final drive unit too.
     
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  8. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    this^^ is what to do when you want to clean out inside of motor.
    buy seafoam read can add amount suggested . then ride it for a hundred miles or run it for 10 minutes any longer use some box fans to cool motor.
    change oil AND filter. when you change the filter there is a spring and washer on the "bolt" side of the filter make sure you have both.
    you may just want to buy them before you start just to make sure you have then. and will never have to change the spring again.

    I do this with sea foam just before I do an oil and filter change.
    it will do a good job you will notice a cleaner oil sight glass and the reflective area behind it.
    cheapest oil you will find is shell rotella T4 then if you want to go with something else after thats ok too.

    changing gear oil it is very important to remove the fill plug first before the drain plug. It would suck to not be able to remove fill plug after draining the gear oil.
     
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  9. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

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    Broken and in process of doing full tear down on them. I had to use vice grips to get some screws off without stripping them, even after letting PB blaster sit on them overnight. Seals are shot. Everything was gross, even had what I think are mud wasp larvae in one of the little connector tubes. My ultrasonic cleaner should be here in a couple days, I figure a half hour in some simple green in that will go a long ways.
     
  10. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

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    I was going to pull exhaust off anyways because it's got cracks in both sides, at the low point, where condensation settled and rusted the pipes through. I want to, at a minimum, clean them good. Might see if I can get someone to fix those and my gas tank at same time; that or just replace gas tank and get a new set of 4 to 2 headers. Once I drain everything I'll do that with the oil pan gasket. I wouldn't have thought to do that. I'm *sure* there's stuff settled in there, seeing the condition the rest is in. Its definitely in a little more rough shape than I thought it was, but I'm gonna make it work.
     
  11. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

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    Made the decision to not bother trying to fix gas tank, at least not right now. It can go on shelf in garage for a bit. Picked up a real nice looking 750 maxim tank on eBay for just under $200. There's probably a very slim chance I 'd get mine welded and painted for that price, so I decided to just buy it (and enjoy the longer range that the bigger thak will give me too). If I'm going to hit my 1 month goal (June 7) to have it rideable I need to pick my battles.
     
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  12. jayrodoh

    jayrodoh YimYam Premium Member

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    Straight simple green will discolor the carb bodies, might not be a big deal but FYI you may want to dilute it prior to soaking.
     
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  13. Huntchuks

    Huntchuks Well-Known Member

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    Simple Green or other benign cleaners may strip plating (zinc) in hot ultrasonic machine. If you see whitish particles rising off screws, etc., stop immediately.
     
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  14. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

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    Heh. Yea... I learned that one before seeing this. It was diluted but still pretty concentrated. Oof
     
  15. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

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    Good to know thank you!
     
  16. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Getting the right tools for the job will help you out for sure. I started out like you reading that an ultrasonic was the go to way of doing carbs. Well to make them look good on the outside maybe. As for the jets and small places inside the carb, using the corrects tools is the only way to go.
    https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-1...=1652529199&sprefix=carb+jet+c,aps,174&sr=8-6

    Also getting the right screw drivers for the screws will help them not strip. Most of the metric screws need a special type JIS I think is the type. These have blunt nose style and not sharp point and grip the screws better.

    Take your time with the carbs, do them right the first time. Even though you might want to power through them and then get the bike going. Make sure you get the enrichment ckt clean in the float bowl area. That is one that is over looked often. Using a bred tie with the insulation removed will fit through the enrichment jet. Make sure you can pass cleaner and air through that before you put them all back together.

    Do a bench sync and add fuel to the carbs before you put them on the bike.....to see if they leak.

    Post some pics when you get the chance, we would like to see the bike and the progress you are making.
     
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  17. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

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    Carby's came clean. I need to borrow a 10mm bolt remover from my brother to get the last two float valve seats out (have replacements). Currently dealing with the fact that a bolt broke off on engine where the intakes attach. Found a local shop that said he'd help me. At first he said they don't work on metric bikes anymore, Harley only, but then asked what I did. I explained what I'm doing and what happened, he said if I bring the cylinder head in, he'll get the bolt out with welder for me. Im trying to get the head off now, can't even get it to break free. I'm worried I'll need to take the whole engine out to get it off even if I DO get it free, which will suck.
     

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  18. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

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    At least it left some bolt above the surface and isn't recessed.
     

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  19. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    The dowels between the head and cylinders might be holding the head tight. It takes a bit of time and perseverance. Keep at it it will separate. I used a piece of wood in the exhaust ports and hammered the wood upwards. Are there two studs and nuts at the cam tunnel head cylinder joint on your bike. If so they corrode to. Put some map gas heat on them.
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2022
  20. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

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    Any tips? I've hit it, soaked it with PB, sat on the bike and used my legs with my arms for extra leverage... This is round two right now. I was at it for 2h last night, and have been working at it for the last hour too.

    Exhaust is off, nuts are out, sprayed tf out of bolts with PB including the ones along the back that face the carbs. I have nothing pneumatic to use.
     

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