No Idea

Adjust pilot jet .Its running tan now .

 

I'd still do a cooant leak test. A gasket failure won't necessary result in coolant and oil mixing.

 

I'm a marine engineer and I've run a lot of diesels and gas engines although my bike is my first one of these.

From your earlier post:

And all I can tell you is I FIRMLY believe you have a coolant leak into your oil. Oil won't show up in your coolant if the leak is in an area where the coolant pressure is higher than the oil side, pretty much everywhere except the head gasket or a cracked cylinder liner. Everywhere else, the coolant flows to the oil. (Exception may be the oil cooler if this bike has one)

The milky appearance is an emulsion of oil and water, and any oil that does get in the combustion space, the water steams off... thus why your oil level is not rising. The milky / foaming can happen with a small amount of water. And it may be a small enough flow that you don't see any steam out the exhaust.

This can corrode the rings and make them stick as you are seeing. It also reduces the viscosity of your oil and continued use will wear ring sides faster and wear down all the shaft bearings in your engine.

Don't know how to do it on a motorcycle, but on a larger engine... drain coolant and disconnect water pump drive (Or remove impeller? this is to protect the water pump bearings/seals that are lubricated by the water), change oil a couple times and run briefly (From cold, don't let the head get hot without cooling or crack time) each time to clean out the milky stuff. Some guys even add a little diesel to make it cut the water better. If you leave the water fill open, you might see a little exhaust out the fill if the leak connects to combustion space. Then fill coolant system back up to very top and pressurize somehow. With valve cover removed and oil pan (I know, not do-able on the bike... maybe a borescope through the drain hole?) and plugs, inspect for where a small leak may be coming from. If it's in the cylinder it will drip between the piston skirt and liner.

Either way, it will confirm whether it's a head gasket, bottom gasket, or a much larger cracked casting issue.

 

Coolant leak test is next.
Did another compression test, Aprently I was to have it at operating temp.
So 1 and 2 I can get 120psi
And 3 and for only to 100psi.

 

Would the compression be low on all cylinders though if its the head gasket .??

 

It depends on what happened. If an engine overheats significantly, or the head is not torqued down properly, it can warp the head along the entire length, and thus you could end up with one "side" of the head warped differently than the other side.

But typically, low compression across the board is indicative of other issues (rings, valves, old age).

 

Head has never been off. So not to sure what to do. Sounds expensive ither way .

 

Gonna be parting out soon.

Ps. Carbs have fresh rebuild.

 

Aw man, don't part out a passed down bike. You're so close to getting it going properly once more!

 

Na man I'm done.

 

I very much understand your frustration. If you have a place to store it, my advice is to make a record of what you have done up to this point, park it and walk away for a few days, weeks, or even months if you have to. Way too nice of a bike with a lot of tender love and care put into it for it to go down the road. Everyone has to do what they have to do for their situation so no one will fault you for that

 

Well I didnt give up. Took a closer look at timing. It was off 1 tooth on intake and possibly one tooth on exhust.

Would that make my compression low .And give me a bog down low.

Rechecking compression .Tonight now that its in time.

 

YES if you are off one tooth the valves are not in sequence which would lower compression .

 

Not sure how much you've invested financially, or time-wise and do not need to know. However, it may not be too late to consider other options.

Rationale: 1. Money Invested into solution w/o guarantee of fix 2. time 3. You've still got some form of liquid in your current engine's oil (compounded problem - timing off, some form of leak, ect.) 4. Keeping Maxine in your position

Possible solution: donor bike, or donor engine. Would give you the opportunity to perform proper benchwork on your current engine at a later date, and get you back up-and-running without too much investment AND a guaranteed solution. Hopefully long enough to get the original(?) engine repaired.

Example:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/86-Yamaha-...ash=item48886b2e7f:g:k~gAAOSwFyhZ58qP&vxp=mtr


Just a thought from a fellow-fanatic.

Cheers mate,

 

I'm quite certain the the fluid in the oil is condensation.
Reason to believe this is. No loss of coolant. And the weather here has been rediclous all winter. Warm cold warm cold warm cold. Its been up to +12 and down to -20 in same day . and this has happened all winter.
The head has never been off the bike. And for a gasket to go I can't see compression being fairly even across the 4.
Dont get me wrong I'm no mechanic. But I'm crossing my fingers for it being out of time and condensation.
The bike works to well for other serious stuff.

 

Well the timing was off 1 tooth on the intake and 1 tooth off on the exhaust.

All timed up now and a cold compression test was 149 across all 4.

I hope that's solves my frustration lol.

 

when you get it fired up run about an ounce of seafoam in the oil to clean out the crankcase

 

Yes indeed. Picked up new filter, I'm ready

 

So with all thats done to my bike. It still starts hard when its warm after sitting for 5 minutes or longer .
Everything is to spec. I even tried priming it for a few seconds but still needs a touch of the throttle.
Any ideas?

 

Enricher (the choke that's not a choke)?