PLEASE- I need a gas cap!!

The damn thing is done for- won't lock closed and leaks all over if I fill up too high. It's going to ruin my paint.

I will pay you one millyun dollars US for a gas cap!!

I know this forum can dig deep and produce me a gas cap, you just gotta want to! The bike is an 80 Maxim 650. PLEASE help me..

 

Steve, buddy, pal. A millyun dollars US?

Why didn't you say so? I've got a crappy one off an '81 Virago that'll do the trick. I'll drop it in the mail tommorow. Will that be paid on monoploy money? If so, I'll take it in $500 bills, please.

 

No, but seriously. If your cap is essentially fine than all you need to do is order a new gasket from our resident parts guru, chacal. Here's what he's offering:

I did go out and pull the gas cap that I have off the Virago tank and the seal in it is toast. It's probably in worse shape than yours. And, I don't have the key for it. So, it's pretty much useless without it.

As for it not wanting to lock closed, I suspect the latching mechanism, coupled with the worn seal, may be your problem. Hold on a minute and I'll tear this dude apart to show you what you can do to refurbish it.

Stay tuned...

 

Alrighty... here are two pictures showing the guts of a typical chrome gas cap. You'll want to remove the cap from the tank to work on it. There are a couple of small fiddly parts that you really don't want to lose down the neck of the gas tank.

When you flip the cap over, you'll see two screws. Remove those. Then you'll be able to remove the latch mechanism and be able to clean and lubricate these parts. Don't ask me what to lubricate them with, though. I really have no idea. Maybe just cleaning them will be sufficient. Dunno.

Anyhow, when you turn the key, the two pins rotate pulling the latches towards the center of the cap. If these latches get corroded and gummed up, it becomes rather difficult to unlock or lock the cap. Most of the time, they'll turn in, but won't return once the key is removed. This latter condition results in fuel leaking because the cap isn't properly secured into the tank neck.

Also, if you're replacing the gasket, you'll need to remove the washer. The gasket is next in line. Be careful not to lose the four pressure springs or the small ball bearing located under the gasket. The springs apply pressure to the gasket which in turn applies sealing pressure to the lip on the gas tank neck. If your seal is damaged, the fuel will leak around the gasket. If your gasket doesn't move up and down freely, it won't apply adequate sealing pressure, either.

I think that about covers it. Here's the pics:

 

Gamuru-

You're the man, but my unit is actually missing essential parts. I don't know how they did it but one of my PO's seriously damaged the thing. MEchanism is no longer complete...

Sadness for me.

 

Hey, no problem. Which parts are you missing? More to the point, does the key mechanism, i.e. the lock cylinder, still work? If so, I would be willing to donate this one for parts (unless you insisted on making a contribution to XJBikes.com). Like I said, it's pretty much useless without the key.

 

I will test it when I get home tonight. I don't carry the tank key with me because it's been broken since I got the thing. Thanks for the help!

 

Many of the parts pictured in Gamuru's Excellent Gas-Cap Adventure above are available....but it's usually easier to simply buy an entire new gas cap:




FUEL TANK GAS CAPS:


gc2) OEM fuel tank GAS CAP, complete with lock and 2 keys. Brand new, original chrome-plated, flip-open style gas caps or black screw-on design caps are just like original.


HCP2904 OEM Complete Gas Cap with lock and a pair of keys. Fits all XJ550 models, all XJ650 models (except Turbo), all XJ700 non-California models, all XJ750 models, and XJ1100 models. Includes the HCP170 cap-to-tank sealing gasket. Mounting screw to tank is not included.
$ 54.00

HCP2905 OEM Complete Gas Cap with lock and a pair of keys. Fits all XJ700 California models (SC/XSC/NC/XNC). Includes the HCP170 cap-to-tank sealing gasket. Mounting screw to tank is not included.
$ 64.00


HCP2906 OEM Complete Gas Cap with lock and a pair of keys. Fits all XJ650 Turbo and XJ900 models. Black finish, screw-on design as original.
$ 47.00




Fuel Cap Rebuild Parts:


c6) OEM and aftermarket Gas Cap-to-Tank MOUNTING SCREW, original fit and function. Original mounting screws were made of a plain alloy steel, and did not use a lock washer; these replacement screws are available in a variety of styles. Fits all XJ550, XJ650 (except Turbo models), all XJ750, and XJ1100 models.


HCP168 OEM gas tank fuel cap Mounting Screw, dark gray coated alloy steel with correct pan head size and using a phillips drive slot.
$ 1.00

HCP910 aftermarket gas tank fuel cap Mounting Screw, zinc-plated alloy steel with correct pan head size and using a phillips drive slot.
$ 1.00

HCP2748 aftermarket gas tank fuel cap Mounting Screw, 18-8 stainless steel with correct pan head size and using a phillips drive slot.
$ 2.50

HCP2749 aftermarket gas tank fuel cap Mounting Screw, 18-8 stainless steel with a black-oxide coating, featuring the correct pan head size and using a phillips drive slot.
$ 1.50

HCP2750 aftermarket gas tank fuel cap Mounting Screw, 18-8 stainless steel with correct pan head size and using a phillips drive slot. Has an integral externally-toothed captive "star" (sems) lock washer.
$ 2.50



xx6) OEM Fuel Tank Gas Cap SEALING GASKET, large round rubber ring gasket molded onto a stamped metal base, with a cinch spring surrounding it. Fits all the flip-open style gas caps that have a metal body. The black-plastic bodied flip-open caps use a different style sealing ring that is not currently available. Fits all XJ550, XJ650 (except Turbo), XJ700, XJ750, and XJ1100 models. If you smell gas when your cap is closed, or if it leaks gas when full, this sealing gasket probably needs replacing!

NOTE: during installation, the "concave" side of this ring faces AWAY from the filler neck on the tank.

HCP170 OEM gas cap Sealing Ring, each:
$ 16.00



xx26) OEM fuel cap lock cylinder O-RINGS, there is a small (at the base of the cylinder) and a large (at the top of the cylinder) rubber o-ring that seal the lock cylinder inside the gas cap housing. Fits all the flip-open style gas caps that have a metal body. The black-plastic bodied flip-open caps use a different style o-ring that is not currently available. Fits all XJ550, XJ650 (except Turbo), XJ700, XJ750, and XJ1100 models. If you smell gas when your cap is closed, or if it leaks gas when full, these o-rings may need replacing.

HCP186 Aftermarket gas cap lock cylinder upper (top) O-RING, each:
$ 2.95

HCP187 Aftermarket gas cap lock cylinder lower (bottom) O-RING, each:
$ 2.75



xx26) OEM fuel cap locking-ears housing SCREWS & WASHERS. The cast metal housing that holds the cap catch hooks or ears is mounted to the cap body via two small phillips-drive screws which are normally very corroded after years of exposure to fuel. Fits all the flip-open style gas caps that have a metal body. The black-plastic bodied flip-open caps use a different style o-ring that is not currently available. Fits all XJ550, XJ650 (except Turbo), XJ700, XJ750, and XJ1100 models. If you're going to be dis-assembling your cap for rebuild or lubrication, you'll probably want to replace these screws while you've got everything apart. Available in a variety of original phillips-drive or replacement socket head allen-wrench drive styles and materials. Lock washers should be also ordered separately below.


HCP6418 Aftermarket gas cap lock housing retaining SCREW, panhead phillips-drive zinc-plated alloy steel screw has the correct small-diameter head needed for this close-fit application. Use 2 per cap. Each:
$ 0.70

HCP6421 Aftermarket gas cap lock housing retaining SCREW, panhead phillips-drive natural finish 18-8 stainless steel screw has the correct small-diameter head needed for this close-fit application. Use 2 per cap. Each:
$ 2.00



HCP6423 Aftermarket gas cap lock housing retaining SCREW, socket head cap screw allen (3mm hex-key) drive black-oxide coated finish alloy steel screw has the correct small-diameter head needed for this close-fit application. Use 2 per cap. Each:
$ 0.75

HCP6424 Aftermarket gas cap lock housing retaining SCREW, socket head cap screw allen (3mm hex-key) drive 18-8 stainless steel screw has the correct small-diameter head needed for this close-fit application. Use 2 per cap. Each:
$ 0.75



HCP6425 Aftermarket gas cap lock housing retaining screw LOCK WASHER, 18-8 stainless steel finish has the correct small-diameter profile needed for this close-fit application. Use 2 per cap. Each:
$ 0.20

HCP6426 Aftermarket gas cap lock housing retaining screw LOCK WASHER, black-oxide coated alloy steel has the correct small-diameter profile needed for this close-fit application. Use 2 per cap. Each:
$ 0.25



xx28) OEM fuel cap pressure and fluid control BALL VALVE. The cast metal fuel cap housing has a drilled cross-passage in it that allows air pressure to escape from the inside of the tank, while preventing fuel spillage if the tank or bike becomes horizontal. Looks like a standard ball bearing but is quite a bit smaller. Fits all the flip-open style gas caps that have a metal body. The black-plastic bodied flip-open caps use a different style ball that is not currently available. Fits all XJ550, all XJ650 (except Turbo), all XJ700 non-California models. all XJ750 and XJ1100 models. If you're going to be dis-assembling your cap for rebuild or lubrication, you'll probably want to replace this small ball while you've got everything apart.


HCP6415 Aftermarket fuel cap pressure and fluid control BALL VALVE, made from standard alloy steel. Use 1 per cap.
$ 0.75

HCP6414 Aftermarket fuel cap pressure and fluid control BALL VALVE, made from corrosion-resistant 440C stainless steel. Use 1 per cap.
$ 1.95

 

Well shoot. I might just have to go ahead and order one from you. Save myself the aggravation..

Thanks for the great info!

 

Well, that sure is the easy way to do it! Although the gas caps are fun little boogers to take apart and play with. Did you know that there's a total of 21 individual springs inside of a gas cap? Really, 21 springs inside the gas cap. Who would have thunk that?

 

And that's exactly WHY I am not the guy to take that thing apart LOL. Actually, dis-assembly is the easy part!

Expect an order from me in the next few days. Thanks again for all the help, Chacal and Gamaru!

 

I want your dead lock mechanisim! The lock tumblers are gold! I use them to re-key other locks on bikes I pick up that have mismatched locks.

 

Sure thing. I'll order the freshie in the next couple days. PM me your address and I will send the old one along. It's the least I can do for you guys this forum is gold.

 

until you get a gas cap go to lowes plumbing dept and get this 1 1/2" test plug it will seal tight so gas will not leak out.

 

I went looking for something like that couldn't find it anywhere!

 

If you seal it up tight with a test plug, won't it cause a vacuum to develop inside the tank and starve the engine for fuel?

 

look in the plumbing section at a hardware store, get 1 1/2"

 

I use one I picked up at Home Despot in the Pipes and Plumbing section. Under $5 and works great when you use it to etch the rust out of the tank.

Don, YOU da man, bar none!

 

Hey guys- Thanks again for all the help.

A generous member (Eflat7) has offered to ship me a spare he has for the cost of shipping. Eflat- if you are still monitoring this thread, I tried to reply to your PM but something is awry with my outbox. I have tried emailing you.


Hopefully I will be able to get back in contact with Eflat7 and get a hold of this cap. Much appreciation as always for the wealth of help and suggestions everyone..

 

If we ever get some nice weather again we'll have to hook up for a meet-and-greet and go for a ride. Maybe pull a couple more XJs together for a big ta-do.

 

I agree Gamuru! I would like that a lot! I can't stop noticing other Maxims on the road these days, actually there are no less than three different clean looking bikes right in/around Seattle where I ride daily. I wonder if any of them frequent the forum?

Anyhow, thanks again for the control switch, it's installed and I think just about right, although I had intermittent function this morning on the way to work. I'll have to pop the old headlight unit off again tonight or tomorrow and trace everything to make sure I don't have a short there somewhere. I am confident though it will work fine once I do that.

I also threw a fresh Halogen bulb in the other day- what a difference!! I only paid like $18 for it, it's a standard H4, makes me wonder what $50 or $60 bucks will get me light wise...

 

Ummm... $50 or $60 poorer?

 

Hucker, I've got another gas cap off of an 80 650 MaximI but I was hanging on to it for spare parts. If Eflat doesn't come through, let me know. We'll get you hooked up one way or another.

 

LOL- Ya think? I guess you're probably right, it IS pretty nice compared to my old light for sure. Guess it probably won't get all that much better from this.

PS- Lights and signals worked fine riding home in this crappy rain tonight..

 

Might have to hold you to that one, Robert. Have yet to hear back from Eflat, and while I'd love to order up a fresh one from Chacal, the motorcycle budget has been slowly adding up lately, and I need to slow it down somehow.

 

If you're looking for a decent and bright headlight, we sell (CARQUEST) an H4 that's rated at 100 Watts on high and I believe 60 Watts on low. It doesn't draw that much more than a standard headlight so there shouldn't be any issue with your charging system. The bulb retails for something like $12 IIRC. Note: this bulb isn't legal for use on the roads, so use at your own risk. The part number is BP1210/H4.

CSK (Shucks locally) sells the Sylvania TrueStar? BrightStar? ...something like that. It's a bright white light bulb that I've heard good things about, too. I'm not sure of the price, but I'm thinking it's no where near the $50-$60 range you were talking about. Maybe someone could chime in if they're familiar with this one.

 

Man that's tempting.. The bright one that is! I'm addicted to light!

Do guys get pulled over by the Fuzz a lot for too ambitious lighting?

 

Be careful with using a 100W bulb....very bad things could happen (melted wires, welded headlight switches, a fire inside your wiring birds nest inside the headlight housing. A fire hazard is a real possibility!

 

None of that sounds like very much fun.

 

Word up Hucker, electrical fires don't like to be put out easily either (long story, I'll tell it to you some day).
The wiring on the harnesses of our bikes will not support a 100 watt bulb for very long given their AWG size and the inevitable corrosion that is undoubtedly present in all of our bikes. It's a problem looking for a place to happen. Best move with the least problem would be to have a relay installed and run new wires directly to the battery (through a new fuse would be good).
I'll see if I can't pop into the spare parts bin this weekend, I'm leaving the country on Tue and won't be back 'til the 20th so get in touch with me if you need it ASAP.