1. Hello Guest. You have limited privileges and you can't "SEARCH" the forums. Please "Log In" or "Sign Up" for additional functionality. Click HERE to proceed.

Rear Brake Drag - Drum Hot - Any Damage?

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by ManBot13, Apr 2, 2010.

  1. ManBot13

    ManBot13 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,592
    Likes Received:
    176
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Fairfax, VA
    So I just got my bike on the road and inspected. It's probably got 150 miles since I put it on the road after working on it for a year. My replaced my rear brake shoes and changed my final drive oil. I just got it inspected, and saw the guy spin the rear tire - no problems.

    Today, when I got home, I smelled something funny (like burning). 27 mile drive from work (and to work this morning) I noticed that the rear drum, wheel, and final drive housing was VERY hot. I was able to roll it into the garage (slightly uphill but it was tough), and put it on the center stand. The tire didn't spin freely, but I adjusted the rear brake out a turn or two, and the wheel spun fine. So I guess I just completely misread the Hayne's manual on the adjustment (and have now found info on the forum).

    My question is: should I worry about hurting anything? I figure that given that there was oil that smelled like burning (I think it came out of the breather and ended up on the rear wheel) I figure that I should change the oil. Should I also take the wheel of and check the brake shoes (kinda a pain because the muffler is right next to the axle (MAC 2-4)?
     
  2. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    21,283
    Likes Received:
    415
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Location:
    Rural SE Michigan 60 miles N of Motown
    Good idea about changing the final drive oil again;

    and yes the brake check would be a pain but I would do it. Clean everything up and check the drum for cracks or bluing; if the shoes got glazed you can clean them up with some 400-grit dry sandpaper. You probably burnt all the cam pivot grease out too so take that apart, clean and re-lube.

    Better safe than sorry.
     
  3. MiCarl

    MiCarl Active Member

    Messages:
    4,373
    Likes Received:
    23
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Location:
    Livonia, MI (Metro Detroit)
    Might want to re-grease any bearings that aren't sealed too.
     
  4. ManBot13

    ManBot13 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,592
    Likes Received:
    176
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Fairfax, VA
    Dumb question...Which bearing are/aren't sealed and what grease? And what's the torque for the final drive drain and filler bolt? I can't see to find it
     
  5. wizard

    wizard Active Member

    Messages:
    5,282
    Likes Received:
    26
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Location:
    DEVON ENGLAND
    final drive drain 17 ft lbs, filler tight enough not to leak.
     
  6. ManBot13

    ManBot13 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,592
    Likes Received:
    176
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Fairfax, VA
    Alright...looks like the axle just eeks out under the muffler. The burnt smell is coming from inside the housing. There appears to be some glazing, and the inner half (towards the center of the wheel) of the pad shows more wear than the outer half. The friction material still looks good.

    There was however a lot of black "soot" so I guess it got oil contaminated. The only thing I see is a bearing (I'm guessing the wheel bearings are sealed) and I'm hoping that grease didn't come out of that :evil: . Unfortunately, I don't have any brake cleaner...so I have to wait til tomorrow to finish this up.

    I also figured out what I got wrong. First, last fall I had marked up a 2x4 with the appropriate markings for brake height and travel. Apparently, I mixed up another set of markings on the wood. Second, I think I took the 20-30 mm from the top of the brake pedal to engaged to mean full on, not starting to engage. I guess they must have started making contact as they heated up, getting tighter and tighter.
     
  7. ManBot13

    ManBot13 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,592
    Likes Received:
    176
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Fairfax, VA
    Hmmm...well chacal sells the wheel bearings and says that they don't have seals on this model. Does that mean the bearing doesn't have seals, or that there isn't some external seal? I keep reading that removing bearings will damage them, so it there any way to regrease them in the hub? How should I check them (I can stick my finger in there and turn them, and they aren't "easy" to turn, but turn smoothly)?
     
  8. Bushy

    Bushy Active Member

    Messages:
    897
    Likes Received:
    50
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    Australia
    th 'soot' is th used up brake linings which is why ya should clean it out sometimes..and th bearings should spin easily .. seems like new bearings are in order to me whether overheating was th problem or not.
     
  9. ManBot13

    ManBot13 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,592
    Likes Received:
    176
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Fairfax, VA
    You're probably right about the wheel bearings, they are one of the few things I didn't do on this bike. The weather is to beautiful to wait for parts, so I'll have to order them and wait until a rainy day to do 'em. I didn't realize they were so cheap (from chacal of course)!
     

Share This Page