Starter stop working? Solenoid going "click"? Good battery, good solenoid, safety circuits working correctly, and you can bump start it and it takes right off? That's where I'm at right now. In fact, I bump started it for over a year because sometimes life just gets in the way of the tinkering. Of course, it's my fault because replacing the starter brushes was one of the two things I didn't do when I recommissioned the old girl. The front springs will come this summer. So here it is, March, and I still don't have her out on the road! I can't bump start the 650R at my ex's house because of all the ice and mud still on the ground. We're about to fix that problem though, with a starter rebuild kit. I picked this one up from Ebay, a warehouse seller out of California. It's a generic kit with o-rings, bearings, brushes, and brush plate. I only used the two large o-rings and brushes/brush plate because, well, that's all that my starter used from the kit. Since I had to pull the starter and take it to my house to rebuild, I decided to do a write up for anyone wondering "just what in the heck is inside that thing." You will need: Brushes set and outer o-rings, or e generic rebuild kit like I used. 10mm wrench to remove the starter bolts JIS phillips screwdriver or equivalent Grease Disposable gloves if desired Shop towel or equivalent (recommended) Metal polish Spray electrical cleaner (if desired) EDIT:::::: After I had this posted Chacal brought up a couple of points I hadn't considered putting in the write up that are very good points to consider. And after all, who wouldn't listen to the Parts Guru..... First we start by removing the starter, which is that silver looking thing on the left side of the motor with the red arrow pointing at it. All you have to do is remove the bolts (yellow arrows) and slide the starter out from the motor. Depending on how long the batt cable is (mine's not very long) you may be able to pull the starter all the way out to access the batt cable terminal. Disconnect the cable and remove the starter. It's a good idea to put the bolts back into the motor so you remember which one goes into which hole, since they are very different in length. This is the starter as it sits on the table. Remove the two bolts that run almost the entire length of the starter.... ....and then you can remove the reduction gear housing from the stator housing. On the opposite end you need to pop off the brush plate cover, but first, ESPECIALLY if you are only pulling it apart to check the brush length, you need to press the battery cable bolt through the housing...... ....so that you don't break the copper wires connecting the brush to the bolt. If you are replacing brushes it will come with a new bolt attached, so it's not as critical in this case. (red arrow) Note the placement of the o-ring. (yellow arrow) I took the pics for this tutorial after I had done the dis-assembly/re-assembly, so the parts look clean. The insides of your starter may look slightly more dirty, such as this. You want the armature (green) and comutator (red) areas to be clean. Use ONLY glass paper or metal polish on the comutator. You don't want to use anything harsher than this so as to not get particles embedded into the copper and cause premature wear of the new brushes. The new brushes need to be installed into the brush holder. If the brushes do not move freely you may need to sand the side or use a screwdriver to spread the holder out to accommodate the brush. Note the green arrow pointing to the notch for the spring to set in. Make sure this is pointed away from the comutator when assembling. Once installed, also make sure the wires move freely in the area cut out for them. It should now look like this: When installing the brush holder back into the stator housing, push the brushes into their holdings and align the notch. Now on to the reduction gear assembly. Pull out the reduction gears and thoroughly clean the inside and the gears themselves. I recommend nitrile gloves and lots of blue shop towels for this process. Once cleaned, grease the gears and re-install. When installing the end plate before installing the reduction gear housing, note the alignment notch (orange) and ensure to replace the washer (blue). Close up view of the alignment notch. Note the yellow area. This is the area the end plate sits against, it does not sit flush with the outside of the housing. Install the outer o-ring for the reduction gear housing. When installing the reduction gear assembly, take note of the alignment notch. Setting the armature gear into the reduction gears takes a bit of patience to get everything lined up. This pictures shows the housings aligned properly, with the sides fitting flush. You will eventually get to this point...... But probably not without having to try a couple of times when you get off alignment as in this photo. Then back to the brush end to install the other outer o-ring.... .....slide the cable bolt through the housing as you install the brush end cover........ ....and align the notches (side view shown) as you press the entire assembly together. Then it's just a matter of installing the two long screws to complete the assembly and installing the starter back on the bike. :::::::::::::::NOTE:::::::::: When re-installing the battery cable to the starter, be absolutely sure that the "bolt holder" is not cracked, and be sure to use the o-ring and felt washers upon assembly. If this bolt is not well insulated it will cause a ground fault and the starter will not spin, nor will you be able to bump start the bike. Thus endeth my (almost) 18 month bump starting ritual. Hope you find this tutorial at least a little helpful. The manuals don't always take the best pictures, especially in black and white.