Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by MrSeca, Apr 2, 2019.
Thanks. I was actually looking for real pics or someone actually doing the procedure with pics.
Haynes, Clymer and Yamaha have excellent service manuals.
It's rare for anything covered there to be written up here.
Which one would you recommend and can I get it online?
All three, but the Yamaha or the Haynes at a minimum (all three compliment each-other, and all three have errors). I think Haynes and Clymer both sell their online now, and AFIK the only way to get a new copy of the Yamaha manual is online (otherwise you'll have to look on Ebay for a used one).
I might have really stepped in it. I accidentally overtightened the right side pivot shaft and after loosening it back the final drive now makes a knocking sound.
I was going through the manuals and I wanted to learn a little bit about the pivot shafts. I had noticed that the torque spec for the pivot shaft on the right side was 43-52 INCH POUNDS. I had mistaken that for FOOT POUNDS and I started to tighten it accordingly. I noticed that the pivot shaft was not really getting any tighter and it kept on screwing into the hole leaving almost no threads for the lock nut. I was a little confused but I left enough threads for the lock nut to bite into and tightened it down. Later on that day I put the bike in neutral and noticed it would not move. I put it up on the center stand and put it into first gear and the wheel still did not turn. Realizing I made a mistake I loosened the pivot shaft back out to where it was originally and locked it down. Now the wheel turns when it's in first but there is now a knocking going on. What mess did I get myself into?
You might have bent the swingarm enough for it to contact the u-joint.
Dissasemble and inspect.
One other piece of information that I left out was that I did at one point take the entire pivot shaft out of the hole. When I did this the whole unit moved about a half inch. After thinking about this is it possible that something went out of alignment?
Disassemble and inspect.
I'm also concerned about the integrity of the bearings and threads.
Do you know of any tutorials. The manuals aren't that great for this procedure.
All of the manuals cover removal of the swingarm more than sufficiently.
Start by removing the rear wheel, then the driveshaft, then the shocks, then the swingarm pivot pins, then the swingarm. Each of those steps is covered.
Perhaps, but it looks like you need some sort of special tool or pulley to take the middle drive out so that the swing arm can actually be taken off and it seems a tad complicated for a novice mechanic but I will do my best.
The middle drive gear is in the engine cases, and only needs to be removed when the engine is being disassembled. The final drive unbolts from the swingarm, then you pull the driveshaft out by hand. The U-joint stays in place.
LOL. See what I mean, I don't even know the correct terms. What's the U-joint? Oh, and why did Yamaha make the pivot shafts different on either side. One has a lock nut and the other looks like a complete bolt. Why the difference?
sans manual partzilla is your friend
www.partzilla.com shows exploded views and part names
The side with the locking nut sets the bearing preload (a requirement for roller bearings so they run correctly).
Okay, how do you set the bearing preload?
When you torque the pivot shaft to the correct value and then tighten the lock nut.
I don't think you would've done any damage to the swing arm by over tightening it, the bearings are pressed in until they stop on both sides and it is solid metal across from one bearing to the other side. I think the frame would have spread apart when over tightened. Not sure it would've been permanently bent but you'd have to remove the swing arm and inspect to be sure.
To add onto k-moe description, one side is fixed and the other is adjustable so you can tighten the arm to spec. Think of it like tightening a short piece of a dowel into a c-clamp, you only need to tighten it from one side until you get the desired result. Too loose and the dowel would be loose, too tight and it would get deformed. Having a c-clamp with a screw on both sides wouldn't be very useful in this application.
Thanks everybody. Sorry to ask such ignorant questions. I sincerely appreciate the help.
if you don't ask you don't learn.
Ooooookay. I figured it out. This bearing pre-load thing proves to be very important. I was getting a little bit of a wheel wobble because the right side pivot nut was not torqued enough in the past. So I torqued the right side pivot shaft to where I THOUGHT it should be then tightened the lock nut. Then I went to the left side and torqued that down to the required torque spec. Still wobbled. So I loosened the left side and went back to the right side, undid the lock nut and torqued the pivot shaft a little deeper and locked it down. I went back to the left side and tightened that bolt to the required spec and boom, no wobble. Also, the knocking went away so I will not worry about that anymore.
Now the bad news:
While inspecting the left side the spring that sits inside the oil seal somehow became dislodged and I had to fish it out. How important is this seal? I just went for a ride and I don't see any visible oil leaks YET. But for all I know the oil could be going into a place that's not good.