Setting HSC32 float heights dry.

+1 to 11/16 from mating surface to casting mark in float. 2 years ago bought new seats and valves. Could not get it right for the life of me. Gave up for awhile and after setting my floats to this spec it runs like a charm. Thank you!!!!!

 

Im super new too and dont really have a clue what Im doing love the Q tip thing, so the 17.5 mm is from the shelf with no gasket to the top of the float or the "mold line" half way between thhe black part of thr float?

 

Make a Tool.
Mechanics Pocket Ruler
Toothpick
Red Magic Marker

Badda-bing; badda-boom!

 

Thanks rick, You are the man

 

Hey rick question. On the picture on the left. The top line should not line up with the top of the bowl. Should not be higher?

 

I know this is an old thread, but if I am going to be using aftermarket float needles and seats, does the 17.5mm measurement still stand?

 

It should.

K&L Supply distributes a needle and needle/seat set manufactured by Keyster. I suspect this is what you're going to end up with in an aftermarket set.

If I correctly recall a conversation I had years ago with Chacal the needle sold for the XJ650 by K&L is longer than the stock needle. He was having fits getting a float level set. The problem won't be that the level is different but that the float tang will be cockeyed on the end of the needle giving inconsistent results.

Now it is possible K&L simply has a problem in their cross reference. I know that needle is an exact fit in another carburetor they list it for (a 750 Virago, I think). So perhaps another distributor is really selling a different needle, but I doubt it. As far as I know K&L is the only distributor handling this stuff in the U.S.

You may be able to get a long needle to function consistently by bending an S curve in the tang so it sits square against the needle. It's not something I've tried.

Be interesting to hear from Chacal on this......

 

Yes, it would be very interesting as I ordered them from Chacal....

God I hope I don't have problems setting the float heights, I've come this far with too many snags already. No more! It has been fun though!

 

viewed the u-tube video and tried to replicate the measurement. Is 17.5mm at center of float top (bottom) correct setting for 83 xj750?

I'm having heck of time setting at this distance! Way too much as I see it.

 

You set it to whatever gives you the correct fuel level measurement. If it's 17.5mm, then great. If not, then set it to whatever DOES give you what you're looking for.

 

Just trying to get the dry setting close so that wet - set is at least close. Have not started the wet-set yet. As I recall the XJ 650 and XJ 750 float bowls are identical so either they are identical or the xj 650 data is all I have to work with.

 

anyone still watching this thread? Im replacing needles an the aftermarket is 1mm longer than stock, does this make my float height +1 or -1?? why is this so confusing. it seems like its double upside down lol

 

The "dry set" is only meant to get you close.
Here's what I did, I did the dry set at 17mm, then did a wet set on one carb bowl. Once I got that first bowl zero'd in I just copied the other three to it...did the wet set again...tweaked the ones that needed tweaking, and rechecked on the wet set...
Finally, when you do the wet set, fill and drain, and refill each bowl a couple of times before you take your measurements...it'll be more accurate....let's the valves actually get seated.
Good luck

 

Hey guys, newbie here, thanks for all the great info. Bill, looking at your photos, it says you're at 22m on your ruler, but aren't we supposed to have them set at 17.5? I'm in the process of doing this myself and just want to make sure

 

Chopper, make sure you are adjust to the correct measurement for the correct carbs for the correct bike.
What bike are you doing?
If you prefer, send me a private conversation, and I'll talk you through it. Also, I'm only a few hours east of you.........

Dave F

 

I'm working on a 1981 XJ650, trying to find out the correct float height measurement so I can adjust before putting the carb bowls back on. Also, I'm unsure if I should bench synchronize the carbs, or if I should just try them as they are and see if they're already synced by previous owner? What do you think?

 

Chopper,

The dry setting is indeed 17.5mm for your initial setting.

Yes, you should bench sync. That way you KNOW where they are starting at. If you're not sure how to do that, I can talk you through it.

Send me a private conversation with your phone number, and I'll give you a call. I'll have a lot of free time for a few days to be able to talk.

Dave Fox

 

Thanks for replying so quickly dave. I know how to bench synch, and I guess I will most likely end up bench synching them, but First I'm going to try them the way they are, and maybe they're already synched correctly to the bike (wishful thinking), if not, I'll pull the carbs back out and bench synch them. I'm in the process of trying to remove the brass caps so I can clean the fuel mixture screws, trying to pry them up with a razor blade but so far not having any luck. Any tips on that?

 

Carefully drill a small hole in the top, remembering that it's only about 1/10" in thick or so, and the screw is juuuust underneath.

Use increasingly larger bits, going slowly as you want the get the bit to 'grab' the brass. On

Once it 'grabs', use the bit to 'turn and pull' the plug up and out. Don't leverage it sideways, as the pressure can damage the aluminum

 

New problem: trying to install new brake pads on the front last night...I depressed the piston all the way open with a C clamp, put new pads on, but now I can't get the mouting bolt for he caliper to line up, because the pads are too thick. I also noticed the slant on these pads run opposite of the slant on the old pads, does that matter? What should I do, grind these pads down a bit? The mounting bolt is missing the hole by almost 1/4 inch