soldering brushes in starter motor

hi all
I am refurbishing a spare starter motor I have , I got some new replacement carbon brushes, but my soldering iron was not powerfull enough to melt the solder whilst touching the backplate , so I used a small blowlamp, but then the solder "wicked" up the flexible brush copper braiding, making them stiff and useless, I've sent for some new brushes, but how can I solder just the end of the copper braiding without the solder wicking up it
thanks for any help
stu

 

clamp the braid off with hemostats or soldering heatsink or buy brushes with the braid attached

 

you can use an aligator clip with 2 strips of aluminim to emulate photo on left
Elenco ST-23 Heat Sink

different style
Heat Sink

 

ok thanks ,yes I have some haemostats. i'll try them
the brushes already have the braiding attached , its the other end i'm trying to solder to the backplate.



thanks
stu

 

tin the backplate and braid first. if you make a line with soapstone, solder won't cross it. so draw a box around where the braid goes on the backplate, snip a piece of solder, put it in the box and melt it with your torch, when your happy with that, do the braid with your hemos. then attach them with your iorn.
flux, flux, flux....

 

tin the backplate and braid first. if you make a line with soapstone, solder won't cross it.
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ahhh. very interesting, it was tinning the braid when it wicked all the way up.
soapstone, i'll look it up.
thanks
stu

 

heat the end of the braid the solder will flow to the heat

 

soapstone, welding supply or sewing shop

 

well, finally got the job done, (found engineers marking chalk is soapstone, doh) also used haemostats to clamp off the braid, heated the backplate, then did a quick touch with the braid and soldering iron, and it "took". also did the other brush onto the terminal post.all now ok thanks, although I did destroy one other new brush, due to wicking with the torch.
thanks all