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Starter Clutch Replacement

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by TheCrazyGnat, Mar 22, 2016.

  1. TheCrazyGnat

    TheCrazyGnat Well-Known Member

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    Good morning,
    Well, after diagnosing my bike with a damaged/gunked up starter clutch last year, I am finally working on splitting the cases to replace/repair it; whichever is necessary, though I am thinking of just replacing while I am in there. I have been taking lots of pictures, and will try to get things uploaded soon, probably once I get to the point of ordering the parts. My progress on this is very slow right now, I get to work on the bike in 15-20 minute increments or so. I brought the bike down into the basement the night that big storm hit the east coast at the end of January and I am just getting ready to take the engine out of the frame. My first question in this process is about storing the engine: Is it OK to have it upside down for a while? I am trying to do this without disturbing the top end, so I figured once it is removed, I am going to flip it upside down and work on it that way. Since I am working so slowly, it will likely be sitting like that for weeks. I drained the oil (cold) and it has been sitting open for maybe 2 weeks, so it is about as drained as it is going to be until I start. I didn't know if having all that extra oil migrate into the heads would be detrimental or not. It will likely be sitting for a while right side up once I am done too, so I don't know if that will even things out or not. Any thoughts? Also, is there anything else I should think about replacing while in there besides gaskets, oil nozzle, chain guide, etc. directly related to what I am doing?

    Thanks!
     
  2. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    you do have a manual correct?
     
  3. TheCrazyGnat

    TheCrazyGnat Well-Known Member

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    I have the Haynes manual, I am going to be ordering the FSM as well.
     
  4. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Oil getting to the head won't hurt a thing. I had mine upside down for two months.

    I think you have the list of things to change covered. Inspect everything that you have to remove along the way just to be sure you can take care of any issues now (I'm thinking of the oil pump, and oil pump chain in particular).


    Be very careful when removing the bolts for the alternator chain guide. Apply localized heat to soften the thread locking compound, and go slow so you don't snap a bolt head off.
     
  5. CafeBlack

    CafeBlack Member

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    I second that comment re the alternator/primary chain guide. Take it slow and they'll come out as they should and save you some heartbreak and extra work along the way.

    I was going to replace just the springs and metal balls within the starter clutch assembly but decided that in case that didn't solve the problem it was best to get a new/aftermarket starter clutch assembly as a whole.

    My old XJ900 sounded like a can of bolts rattling around at start up. It would spin and rattle and finally catch. After the replacement it's like a new bike. Instant catch and start up is so easy.

    Take it slow. One step at a time. Use thread lock when replacing the chain guide (on the retaining bolts). I also took off my oil pump and cleaned a lot of sludge and small chain guide debris from the metal filter on the pump. The old 900 must have been wheezing with oil distribution as the metal filter was about 2/3rds gunked up. Any questions...just ask. I've been there...into the darkness..and came out again wiser and with a better engine.

    Problems you might face: The TORX screws (3) inside the alternator housing to remove a plate. I used a combination of heat (kitchen butane torch - I can loosen stuck bolts AND make a nice crust on a creme brûlée on the same day!) and an impact driver.

    Chances are you might need to replace those torx screws because the heads will be slightly stripped during the removal process. An inexpensive item from Chacal.

    Any questions...just ask!

    Cheers
     
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  6. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    +1 on the middle gear bearing retainer torx screws.

    I have an air impact, so they came right out in useable condition. One way to make them easy to remove is to carefully drill out the dimples before trying to remove the screws.
    You can use medium strength Loctite on them instead of staking the screwheads, but I chose to do both.
     
  7. rocs82650

    rocs82650 Well-Known Member

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    All the shims must be re-located correctly during re-assembly.
    IMG_20150124_163204.jpg
    The starter clutch is located in the middle of the pic linked to the hyvo chain.
    20150425_215310.jpg
    Also be cautious when removing these...
    IMG_20150124_160736.jpg
    And finally, the beast within...
    IMG_20150125_120708.jpg
    +1.

    Gary H.
     
  8. TheCrazyGnat

    TheCrazyGnat Well-Known Member

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    Thanks! Maybe I will try to get some more impact driver appropriate torx bits, I don't know that the cheap $5 set I have will hold up. I'll have to get a butane torch or something as well, I was using a hair dryer for things like the boots, but I don't think that will cut it here.

    Looks like we are using similar systems, Rocs, I have a ton of little baggies all labelled already; I expect the collection to grow exponentially when I finally get into the meat of things. I will do my best to reassemble correctly, I am trying to take lots of pictures in addition to bagging everything in an attempt to avoid the usual "I have the right angle for everything but the thing I need".

    I was actually stating to feel somewhat confident until I saw those pictures, and now I'm getting anxiety, ha ha! So far the most difficulty I have had was actually removing the exhaust. I see lots of complaints about the carbs, but removing them was one of the easiest things to do so far (not servicing them, of course). While I'm doing all of this, I also want to take the carbs to church, replace the brake pads, shoes, lines, and tires. I don't think I am going to be able to make my goal of having it on the road by April, but I wanted to get these safety things taken care of.

    I am sure I will have lots of questions, thanks for all your help so far!
     
  9. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Oh. Plastic wedges for splitting the cases. The ones that are for leveling toilets work nicely and won't damage the aluminum. work them in carefully and evenly.


    No timeline. No rushing. If you get anxious or frustrated while you are working just walk away for a while, or a few days.
     
  10. rocs82650

    rocs82650 Well-Known Member

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    Baggin' and Taggin' is old school. Get boxes or plastic bins to organize the different sections i.e. Engine, Frame, Tires, etc. These pics are from last year when I did this. She's all buttoned up and has been a runner for a while. We'll be here to help you along the way.

    Gary H.
     
  11. TheCrazyGnat

    TheCrazyGnat Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for all the advice, I don't know that I would have the cojones to do this if I didn't have this site as a resource.

    I have ordered a set of Torx bits and some plastic toilet bowl wedge things. I'll be looking for a torch as well, would a normal propane like one you would use for plumbing be fine, or overkill? I actually need to replace my hot water heater so i was looking at getting one anyway, it's nice to get something that is good for multiple purposes. I can't say that I have made much creme brûlée myself, but if this application calls for something more in line with that, I guess I could start, in the name of economy of course.

    Oh, and rocs, what is that thing above the oil spray nozzle in the last pic? It doesn't look too healthy.
     
  12. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    A regular propane torch will be fine.

    The thing above the oil nozzle is a hunk of the alternator chain guide.
     
  13. rocs82650

    rocs82650 Well-Known Member

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    +1. If you look closely you can see where the chain started to rub against the nozzle. The nozzle is located in the second pic just in front of starter clutch under the chain.

    Gary H.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2016
  14. rocs82650

    rocs82650 Well-Known Member

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    +1. Don't forget to do this...
    20150426_170944.jpg

    Gary H.
     
  15. TheCrazyGnat

    TheCrazyGnat Well-Known Member

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    Thanks! I will keep an eye out there as well. I would really prefer to only do this once! At least not until another 20-30k miles.
     
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  16. TheCrazyGnat

    TheCrazyGnat Well-Known Member

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    OK, so I made a good amount of progress (for me) yesterday. The engine is out of the frame, and I am starting to take the alternator out (I should have done this while the engine was in the frame, I guess it would have made it a little easier). Anyway, when I took the stator out there are a few copper wires that are not covered by that redish amber stuff and some of them sort of broke off like dry spaghetti. These were around the braided wire. Does this look like an area of concern, or is it fine?
     

    Attached Files:

  17. rocs82650

    rocs82650 Well-Known Member

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    Imo the only real way to know would be to clean and test it once the re-assembly is done. k-moe posted a cleaner in another thread that won't harm the covering on the windings. Hopefully he'll chime in sometime soon. I used 2% alcohol and a soft toothbrush then later bought a new one from Chacal while chasing a charging issue.

    Gary H.
     
  18. TheCrazyGnat

    TheCrazyGnat Well-Known Member

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    Ok, sounds good. I'll have to do that then. Hopefully cleaning will help; the bike had not been charging terribly well, just based on how much the brightness of my headlight fluctuated when braking and when the turn signals were on. I was pop starting the bike every time, so I don't know how starting would have been.
     
  19. rocs82650

    rocs82650 Well-Known Member

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    Hopefully we can help you fix this during the rebuild.

    Gary H.
     
  20. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Test the stator. The resistance between the green and the brown wires should measure between 3.6 and 4.4 ohms.
     

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