Tech Section

How about a Tech section, so things like this
Rick's Tech
don't get lost in the forum, and are easier to find.
Rick has written some good tech articles, and it would be nice to be able to find them faster.

 

Yeah really good posts could be rewritten and turned into its own HTML page as a DIY guide, as long as someone includes a few pics here and there.

Then noobs won't have to ask the same carb questions over and over, or the same paint questions over and over. (which is what I do)

 

How about you newbs tag those great posts with some positive feedback

I'm sure Rick would like to hear it...

 

Then Rick will get a big fat head and be "too good for us" and his Harley Beanie won't fit his head anymore. (...runs away to duck and cover...)

(just kidding big fellah)

 

I'm already shopping for clothes at Big and Tall. And, I ain't Tall. If something I wrote helps get somebody going; that's all the reward I need.

 

Well said! Well I will give you two thumbs up, but can't find the proper emoticon for that.. : thumbsup: Will have to do

 

I'll jump on the band wagon. I'd like to see a Tech column of selected posts for quick references. Most noobs aren't going to know what is out there and if my experiences are any indication, they simply don't ever see the search function.
On a positive note, Rick, you understate your importance here. You've helped countless folks with your postings. Some I'm sure lurked around, got what they needed and split town, but on the whole, you've helped a great deal. You should hear how your work affects the population-at-large, so I'm agreeing with spinalator on this one. Thumbs up!

 

I like this idea.

What would be great is if we had a place we could post articles for peer review. Then, after it's been batted around awhile could be hard posted in a section for tech help.

 

OK, Ex-jay's
I'll do one. How about Clutch Cables and Adjusting the Clutch.
There's zillions of questions about Clutch Adjustment.
Here goes:

++++++++++++++++++++
Clutch Cable Replacement and Clutch Adjusting made simple.
By: Rick Massey

Cable Replacement:

Note the way that the old cable is routed, from the Clutch Lever Perch, around the front, along the frame, over or under parts, down along the frame, to the mounting point on the Engine Case, below the Carb's, at the rear of the Clutch Case.

(Make notes or stick tape with arrows if you can't remember how it will go.)

Down at the Engine Case:
Bend the tab on the Clutch Throw-Out Lever mount to allow the Lead Bullet Cable End, to be removed and release the Throw-Out Lever's attachment point.

I use a big Crescent Wrench. Push up the Throw-Out Lever and maneuver the Cable End Bullet out of its holding bracket. Pad the jaws of any tool you use with paper towels.

Relax the wrench allowing the Throw-Out Lever to retract. Clean and lube the pivot point of the cable attachment bracket.


At the Cable's End:
Remove the hard rubber Dust Seal. Un-screw it and slide it to the end of the cable along with the nuts and washers collected as the Cable is removed.

With fresh brake fluid or Armoral, lube the Dust Seal for withdrawing the rubber dust seal off the end of the cable, over the Bullet.

Loosen and remove the Lower Hex Locking Nut and Washer (if present).

Push the threaded Adjusting Barrel through the top of the Mount if the Adjusting Barrel does not come loose from the bracket. The barrel might fall right out of the Mount. Other's need to be withdrawn. Either way; undo the Adjusting Barrel.

At the Clutch Perch:
Remove the Hex on the end of the Clutch Lever Pivot.
Remove the Pivot Pin bolt.
Remove the Clutch Lever from the Perch.

Remove the cable end > (or the remains of a broken cable) < from the Clutch Lever.
Line-up the Cable with Slot on the Lever allowing for the removal of the Cable End from the Clutch Lever. Slide the Bullet out of the Lever.

Clean-out the channeling and the port for the bullet. Put a dab of Waterproof Grease in the "Bullet Hole" and set the Lever aside.

Clean the Knurl Cable End Adjuster and the Locking Ring.
Add NeverSeize to the Knurl's threads.
Place a dab of NeverSeize in the threaded hole for the Knurl.
Place the Knurl, with its Locking Ring all the way on, into the Perch's threaded opening.

Spread the NeverSeize along the Perch's inside threads by running The Knurl > IN, to the end and back OUT; several times. "Exercise" this vital Clutch adjust mechanism. Smooth and precise adjustment of this feature is absolutely necessary to properly and precisely adjust the Clutch.

Make sure the Locking Ring is on tight at the end.
Bottom the Knurl against the Lock Ring.
Turn Knurl OUT 3-1/2 Turns. (Exercise the Knurl IN and OUT in this particular area until it adjusts velvety smooth with no resistance.)

The Cable:
Out with old and in with the new. Follow your notes or taped-on arrows.
Thread the end which attaches to the Clutch Perch > up through the bike < Starting at the Case Mount and ending at the Clutch Lever Perch.

At the Clutch Perch:
Thread the Cable through the > lined-up slots < of the Perch, Knurl and Locking Collar.
Put the lead barrel "Bullet" into the Clutch Lever "Bullet Hole" and mount the Clutch Lever, the Clutch Lever Pivot Bolt and Hex nut.

Make a "Final adjustment check" on the Knurl and Locking Collar. Run the Knurl OUT 3-1/2 turns -- positioning the slot > Inboard < to prevent the Cable from escaping during the remainder of the replacement and adjusting.

Down at the Case:
(Mod's for Performance and Precision Adjustment of Clutch included.)
Place a Hex nut, a Stainless Steel washer and a Nylon washer on to the Threaded Clutch Cable Adjustment end. (Nut, Stainless washer, Nylon washer.)
Slide ... or slip-in from the top ... the Threaded Adjustment End into the Clutch Cable Holding and adjustment mounting bracket. Secure the bottom of the Threaded Adjuster with additional hardware items:
Place a Nylon washer on first.
Place a Stainless Steel washer on next.
Place the Hex nut on the Adjuster; third.
Rubber Dust Shield; last.

Critical Proceedure:
While holding the Threaded Adjustment End tight into the mount; tighten the Lower Hex nut with sufficient force until BOTH Nylon washers "Crush" and mould themselves to, and around, the top and bottom ridges of the holding bracket.

[Use standard, thin, stainless washers. Use Nylon washers that are "Soft", about as thick as a Nickel or slightly thicker. The Nylon washers are > supposed to < get Crushed and become non-slip fasteners ... holding the Threaded Barrel of the Clutch Cable, firmly, in the same place, while final installation and adjustments are carried out. Also, to allow fast and accurate adjustments of the upper and lower hex nuts should future cable adjustments be necessary.]

With the Threaded Adjuster tightened in place; place the Lead Bullet End of the Cable into the Cable Attachment Pivot at the end of the Throw-out arm. Lever the arm, using a proper tool, and capture the Bullet in the attachment devise. Don't fold-over the tab until ALL the Clutch Adjusting is complete.

Release tension on the Throw-out Lever.
Inspect and insure that the Bullet end is firmly seated.
Then, the Throw-out lever for Slack and End Play.

If the Cable is slack and the Throw-out lever has loose End Play ... LOOSEN the LOWER Hex nut on the Threaded Cable End and TIGHTEN the UPPER Hex nut > Holding the Barrel from rotating by holding the Fixed Hex Flats atop the barrel, just above the locking Hex nut, on the Threaded Adjuster ... until ALL the SLACK in the CABLE is REMOVED!

ADJUSTING THE CLUTCH:
Continue adjusting the Threaded Adjustment End of the Clutch Cable until you remove ALL the Slack in the Cable and the Throw-out Lever is > "On the edge" of ZERO LASH. NO End Play." Use finger pressure on the exposed cable. You need to adjust the Throw-out arm to ZERO Lash. Such that adjusting the Hex nut by only one or two flats will provide a hint of Lash. Adjust the Cable at the Lower Bracket for Zero Lash.

The Clutch is preliminarily adjusted ... if not Precisely adjusted.

Test ride and observe the ease of shifting, finding Neutral, and NOT bucking or jumping into gear.

Further fine-tuning of the Clutch Adjustment is done by adjusting the Knurl, at the Clutch Perch, IN or OUT as needed.

The ability to tweak the adjustment of your Clutch using the Knurl ... allows you maintain perfect adjustment. This feature also allows you to make immediate adjustments if heat becomes a factor in the Adjustment.

When the fine-tuning and adjusting is done ... Lock the adjustment with the Knurl Locking Ring. Lock it up tight. Most clutch problems are a result of the Knurl vibrating and loosing it's position.

Good job adjusting that Clutch.
Like a new bike ... ain't it???

Rick Massey

 

Good info, thanks Ricky Rocket!

 

I have to admit, that when I send some tech advise, I hate to have to go back in another 2 or 3 weeks and tell it all again. I find that I dont get as specific due to the retelling thing and then it being gone into the black hole.

I know I can save it to my hardrive, then pull it up as necessary..... but then did I tell you that my computer suddenly dies a few weeks ago. Now I have to keep in contact from the good ol ework computer. SO, all my saves would have been for noght

 

Rick's first edit:
--------------------
"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""
The Cable:
Out with old and in with the new. Follow your notes or taped-on arrows.
Thread the end which attaches to the Clutch Perch > up through the bike < Starting at the Case Mount and ending at the Clutch Lever Perch.

At the Clutch Perch:
Thread the Cable through the > lined-up slots < of the Perch, Knurl and Locking Collar.
Put the lead barrel "Bullet" into the Clutch Lever "Bullet Hole" and mount the Clutch Lever, the Clutch Lever Pivot Bolt and Hex nut.

Make a "Final adjustment check" on the Knurl and Locking Collar. Run the Knurl OUT 3-1/2 turns -- positioning the slot > Inboard < to prevent the Cable from escaping during the remainder of the replacement and adjusting.

Use the Knurl's "Thumb Wheel" Locking Collar and LOCK the KNURL tightly in place.
Place the Cable Sheath End Fitting FIRMLY into the open end on the Knurl.
Secure the sheath against escaping from the Knurl's seat with a strip of Vinyl electrical tape until all Cable and Clutch adjusting is complete.
"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""

 

Final Rough Draft.
Any questions or is this comprehensive enough for an inexperienced wrencher to accomplish a Clutch Cable Replacement and/or Adjust the Clutch.
...................................
Clutch Cable Replacement and Adjusting the CLUTCH made simple.
By: Rick Massey

Cable Replacement:
Note the way that the old cable is routed, from the Clutch Lever Perch, around the front, along the frame, over or under parts, down along the frame, to the mounting point on the Engine Case, below the Carb's, at the rear of the Clutch Case.

(Make notes or stick tape with arrows if you can't remember how it will go.)

Down at the Engine Case:
Bend the tab on the Clutch Throw-Out Lever mount to allow the Lead Bullet Cable End, to be removed and release the Throw-Out Lever's attachment point.

I use a big Crescent Wrench. Push up the Throw-Out Lever and maneuver the Cable End Bullet out of its holding bracket. Pad the jaws of any tool you use with paper towels.

Relax the wrench allowing the Throw-Out Lever to retract. Clean and lube the pivot point of the cable attachment bracket.

At the Cable's End:
Remove the hard rubber Dust Seal. Un-screw it and slide it to the end of the cable along with the nuts and washers collected as the Cable is removed.

With fresh brake fluid or Armoral, lube the Dust Seal for withdrawing the rubber dust seal off the end of the cable, over the Bullet.

Loosen and remove the Lower Hex Locking Nut and Washer (if present).

Push the threaded Adjusting Barrel through the top of the Mount if the Adjusting Barrel does not come loose from the bracket. The barrel might fall right out from the Mount. Other's need to be withdrawn. Either way; undo the Adjusting Barrel from the Mounting Bracket.

At the Clutch Perch:
Remove the Hex nut on the end of the Clutch Lever Pivot Pin.
Remove the Pivot Pin bolt.
Slide-out the Clutch Lever from the Perch.

Remove the cable end > (or any remains of a broken cable) < from the Clutch Lever.
Line-up the Cable with Slot on the Lever allowing for the removal of the Cable End from the Clutch Lever. Slide the Bullet UP and out of the "Bullet Hole" on the Lever.

Clean-out the channeling and the Pivot Port for the lead Bullet. Put a dab of Waterproof Grease in the "Bullet Hole" and set the Lever aside.

Clean the Knurl Cable End Adjuster and its Locking Ring.
Add NeverSeize to the Knurl's threads.
Place a dab of NeverSeize in the threaded hole for the Knurl on the Perch.
Place the Knurl, with its Locking Ring all the way on, into the Perch's threaded opening.

Spread the NeverSeize along the Perch's inside threads by running The Knurl > IN, to the end and back OUT; several times. Add additional NeverSeize, if needed, to insure the Knurl Adjuster moves freely, without binding. "Exercise" this vital Clutch adjustment mechanism until it is able to move with precision. The Smooth and precise adjustment of this feature is absolutely necessary to properly and precisely adjust the Clutch.

Make sure the Locking Ring is on tight, at the end.
Bottom the Knurl into the Perch, against the Lock Ring.
Turn Knurl OUT 3-1/2 Turns. (Exercise the Knurl IN and OUT, in this particular area, until it adjusts velvety smooth, with no binding or resistance.)

The Cable:
Out with old and in with the new. Follow your notes or taped-on arrows.
Thread the end which attaches to the Clutch Perch > up through the bike < Starting at the Case Mount and ending at the Clutch Lever Perch.

At the Clutch Perch:
Thread the Cable through the > lined-up slots < of the Perch, Knurl and Locking Collar.
Put the lead barrel "Bullet" into the Clutch Lever "Bullet Hole" and mount the Clutch Lever, the Clutch Lever Pivot Pin and tighten Hex nut.

Make a "Final adjustment check" on the Knurl and Locking Collar. Run the Knurl OUT 3-1/2 turns -- positioning the slot > Inboard < to prevent the Cable from escaping during the remainder of the replacement and adjusting.

Critical Proceedure:
Use the Knurl's "Thumb Wheel" Locking Collar and LOCK the KNURL tightly in place, 3-1/2 Turns OUT. Place the Cable Sheath's End-Fitting FIRMLY into it's seat at the open end on the Knurl.
SECURE the sheath against escaping from the Knurl's seat with a strip of Vinyl electrical tape until all Cable and Clutch adjusting is complete.

Down at the Case:
(Mod's for Performance and Precision Adjustment of Clutch include some additional hardware items.)
Place a Hex nut, a Stainless Steel washer and a Nylon washer on to the Threaded Clutch Cable Adjustment end. (Nut, Stainless washer, Nylon washer.)
Slide ... or slip-in from the top ... the Threaded Adjustment End into the Clutch Cable Holding and adjustment mounting bracket. Secure the bottom of the Threaded Adjuster with additional hardware items:
Place a Nylon washer on first.
Place a Stainless Steel washer on next.
Place the Hex nut on the Adjuster; third. (Substitute NyLoc Hex nut for stock nut.)
Rubber Dust Shield; last.

Critical Procedure:
While holding the Threaded Adjustment End tight into the mounting bracket; tighten the Lower Hex nut, with sufficient force, until BOTH Nylon washers "Crush" and mould themselves to, and around, the top and bottom edges of the holding bracket.

[Use standard, thin, stainless washers. Use Nylon washers that are "Soft", about as thick as a Nickel or slightly thicker. The Nylon washers are > supposed to < get Crushed and become non-slip fasteners ... holding the Threaded Barrel of the Clutch Cable, firmly, in the same place, while final installation and adjustments are carried out. Also, to allow fast and accurate adjustments of the upper and lower hex nuts should future cable adjustments be necessary.]

With the Threaded Adjuster tightened in place; place the Lead Bullet End of the Cable into the Cable Attachment Pivot at the end of the Throw-out arm. Push the arm UP, as before, using a proper tool, and capture the Bullet in the pivot attachment devise. Don't fold-over the tab until ALL the Clutch Adjusting is complete.

Release tension on the Throw-out Lever.
Inspect and insure that the Bullet end is firmly seated in its holding slot.
Now, check the Throw-out lever for Cable Slack and Throw-out Lever End Play.
Remove all Slack and End Play.

If the Cable is slack and the Throw-out lever has loose End Play ... LOOSEN the LOWER Hex nut on the Threaded Cable End Adjuster and TIGHTEN the UPPER Hex nut > Holding the Barrel from rotating by holding the Fixed Hex Flats atop the barrel, just above the locking Hex nut on the Threaded Adjuster ... until ALL the SLACK in the CABLE is REMOVED and Throw-out Lever End Play is reduced to Zero Lash.

ADJUSTING THE CLUTCH:
Continue adjusting the Threaded Adjustment End of the Clutch Cable until you remove ALL the Slack in the Cable and the Throw-out Lever is > "On the edge" of ZERO LASH. NO End Play." Use finger pressure on the exposed cable to "Feel" the adjusting process.
You need to adjust the Throw-out arm to ZERO Lash. Such that adjusting the Hex nuts on the Cable's Threaded Adjustment by only one or two flats will provide just a hint of LASH. Adjust the Cable at the Lower Cable Mounting Bracket for ZERO Lash at the Throw-out Lever.

The Clutch is preliminarily adjusted. Although, it very well might be Precisely adjusted.

Test ride and observe for the ease of shifting, finding Neutral, and NOT bucking or jumping into gear.

Further fine-tuning of the Clutch Adjustment is done by adjusting the Knurl, on the Clutch Perch, IN or OUT as needed.

The ability to tweak the adjustment of your Clutch using the Knurl ... allows you maintain Perfect Adjustment at all times.
This feature also allows you to make immediate adjustments if heat becomes a factor in the Adjustment.

When the fine-tuning and adjusting is done ... LOCK the adjustment with the Knurl Locking Ring. Lock it up TIGHT. Most clutch problems are a result of the Knurl vibrating and loosing it's position.

Good job adjusting that Clutch.
Like a new bike ... ain't it???

Rick Massey
_________________

 

Maybe a start could be defining which topics a tech section should cover (first). Then info allready written could be gathered, edited and supplied with pics... and of course Rick´s writings would be obvious as basics (noone writes like you, Rick 8)

Themes could be:

Petcocks
Carbs (pulling/cleaning/tuning)
Brakes
Forks
Engine work (valves, gaskets)
Electrics (Coils, wires, alt./starter etc).

All the info is there; it "just" have to be gathered and sorted in topics..

 

I tend to agree with Finn.

Would be nice to have a link on the home page of this forum that had an index of tech topics that that have been discussed and filed under those topics maybe even sub-topics where each fix can be easly found.
IE: Brakes as the topic
bleeding brakes as subtopic
or
Carb repair as the topic
overhaul as subtopic
synchronizing as subtopic
ETC.

Just my 2cents

 

I'll put my two cents in by suggesting a bit of plagiarism of one of the best tech tip sites of old jap bikes I have ever used.

Tech tips are broken into Repair, Maintenance and Modification sections. Within each of those are sub sections like Engine, Electrical, Carb, Transmission etc.

Basically tips are submitted and edited before appearing in the appropriate section by a Moderator. All with pics where appropriate.

Hard to describe so the best way is to go have a look at http://www.xs11.com/forum/

Notice No replys to tech tips are allowed but edits are submitted where appropriate.

Cheers
HG

 

Right on Goon!!!
I checked it out and it seems to be what I had in mind when I gave my 2cents