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To Rebuild or Not to Rebuild

Discussion in 'XJ DIY How-To Videos' started by Joshua Olkowski, Aug 2, 2018.

  1. Joshua Olkowski

    Joshua Olkowski Member

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    Update. It's not the RR. I'm curious about the diode block assembly? If this is faulty can it have an effect on the charging system?
     
  2. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    this is the bike you put running lights on correct?
    the extra wattage constanyly drawing may be the issue remove the bulbs and see what you get


    The Ultimate Relay, Switch, Sensor, and Diodes Guide
    For all XJ-series models, the maximum available charging output VOLTAGE should be as follows (all values are approximate):

    * approximately 500-2000 rpms: 1.8 volts gradually increasing to 14.2 volts
    * 2000+ rpms: 14.2 volts up to about 14.8 volts, with a maximum of 14.8 volts (all models except XJ700-X and XJ750-X)

    If your charging voltages are too low, suspect the alternator brushes first, then perform the alternator stator and rotor checks as described in the Alternator Section.

    If your charging voltages are too high, suspect your Regulator - Rectifier unit first, and perhaps dirty or corroded electrical terminals. The procedure for checking these is too detailed to describe here, and you should consult your service manual for additional details.
    t.

    diode block controls safety relays oil light test nothing to do with charging.

    the photo you posted on FB of your brushes did not look good post it here for second opinion.

    do you reconize my avatar?
     
  3. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    5) Check the condition of your main circuit terminals.....they should be zestfully clean and uncorroded, or you're primed for a variety of problems......not only will your circuits not be getting full power out of your battery, but to add insult to injury, your charging system may think that the battery needs more juice, and so it starts cranking out amps like there's no tomorrow. It's pretty safe to say that neither of those two occurrences qualify as a Good Thing (tm), so...........start at the beginning, and inspect and clean (and then protect, like with di-electric grease or equivalent) all the [/b] terminal connection points[/b]:

    * the positive battery post connection to the positive battery cable.
    * the positive battery cable connection to the starter relay (or "solenoid").
    * the main harness terminal connector from the starter relay.
    * the main lead from the starter relay to the starter motor (both ends).
    * the "main fuse" contacts inside the fusebox.
    * the battery ground cable contacts at both the engine case and at the negative battery post (poor ground are just as bad as poor positive feeds; after all, it takes two to tango, or to complete a circuit, and electricity doesn't care where the restriction occurs).
     
  4. Joshua Olkowski

    Joshua Olkowski Member

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    Ha! Yes I do recognize you.

    I already changed the brushes and cleaned the copper rings and it did not change anything. I also changed the battery. No change. The funny thing is that my bike was charging fine for the last year or so. Rode great even with the running signal lights. It was my daily driver. I then got sick and didn't ride for a week. When I got better and started the bike the charging issue started. I do park my bike outside and I put a cover on it every time, however, every morning there is a little bit of moisture on the seat even though I cover it up. Daily riding probably wicks away the moisture but I'm guessing that not riding for a week allowed moisture to cause just enough corrosion to develop on a terminal causing some sort of resistance.

    The last time I had a charging issue with this bike one of the game changers to figuring it out was changing the starter motor. It was a shot in the dark and I happened to have had an extra starter motor so I just tried it even though I wasn't necessarily having trouble starting the bike. I think what I inadvertently did was in swapping the starter I probably loosened a little corrosion at the connection terminal thus providing less resistance. So, time to go through all the connections. Thanks for posting the steps to cleaning those connections. I will get on it immediately.
     
  5. Joshua Olkowski

    Joshua Olkowski Member

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    Success!
    Not only that but the bike is charging better!!! I cleaned all the connections from the list up above from XJ550H. I did notice some holes in the sheathing of the ground wire to the battery which I wrapped with electrical tape. I also think I never cleaned the connections to the solenoid or the harness that combines the starter solenoid and positive battery terminal. I had an ah ha moment last night when it occurred to me that I never factored in the STARTING issues I've been having with my bike that I failed to mention here. Occasionally, when I would try to start it up the bike would hesitate for a second before actually turning over. So, I'm guessing there was a little corrosion near the solenoid circuit that I failed to notice. I just figured if the bike is starting those connections should be fine and I didn't think the charging and starting issues were related.
    One area of concern is that after all the cleaning, when I started the bike it did not immediately charge to spec. I decided to go for a ride because I hadn't ridden it in a while and again the volt meter in the cluster was only reaching up to 12volts. However, after maybe a half a mile of riding I looked down at the cluster and there it was pointing to 14+ volts!! The needle also stayed consistent where as before I was getting the Mexican jumping bean effect. The bike also feels like it runs a little smoother but that could be anything.
    For those who have read my posts in the past the charging system on my bike has been the bane of my existence for the last couple years partly because I was new to bikes but ego also got in the way. I just assumed some people were wrong about MY charging system. Thanks to XJ550H for chiming in on this one and I am once again thankful to XJBikes for all the help and support. By for now but I'm sure I'll be back again soon.
     
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  6. Joshua Olkowski

    Joshua Olkowski Member

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    Anybody have any “tricks” or can suggest some tools that can get the metal connectors out of the harness. I know there’s a little tab that needs to be pushed back but actually doing it is pretty difficult.
     

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  7. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Paper clip will work or a dental pic on the side that has the little safety ear. If you look close you will see a locking tab on the copper connector, come in from the wire side with the before mentioned tools and it should work.
     
  8. Huntchuks

    Huntchuks Member

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    Another thing to try, if you have one, is a small flat head jewelers screwdriver.
     
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  9. Joshua Olkowski

    Joshua Olkowski Member

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    I used a dental pick. It turns out the connectors were melted to the plastic harness and were stuck in there.
     

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