Uh oh...picked up a Turbo Seca

So I was minding my own business, perusing craigslist in the Central MA Area, doing searches on various old motorcycle model names and prefixes (xj, xs, seca, maxim, cb, gs, gn, kz, gpz etc). My cube mate was looking for a motorcycle the week before but picked one up over thanksgiving. Anyway, I'm minding my own business when I see in the Local Results/Nearby Area section this:

1982 Yamaha Turbo Seca...6k miles...and pics taken by someone WHO ACTUALLY KNOWS HOW TO USE A CAMERA! And it isn't the one that's been up for month's asking almost 2 grand...he's only asking $250! Of course, it isn't in the best shape, but the pics detailed that.

Here's the low-down:
1. It's complete...or at least I think it is. Actually it's a little more than complete. It's got all the plastics with good paint, although some mounting tabs may need repair. It has two extra of some of the big plastic. It's got a spare set of carbs, alternator, starter, coils, regulator, and clutch cover.
2. The engine is in the frame, along with the turbo and exhaust, and it rolls. The open end of the turbo pointing up was exposed.
3. Seeing as it only has 6k miles, and has so many extra parts, it's obviously been sitting a while as someone's project that never got done. In fact the guy who sold it to me acquired it a few months ago from the original owner, but new he couldn't get around to it (he actually had other motorcycle projects that were going pretty well). It's going to need complete carb rebuild, brakes, bearings, etc.

My question is, what needs to be done with the fuel pump/turbo, as I haven't encountered these on my (ongoing) journey with my xj750 seca. Do I need to rebuild them? Should I even worry about the valves?

Also, after getting a little worried when I found out that there was no Haynes manual on this bike, I got really excited when I found out that the factory manual, supplements, and even owner's manual could all be found on the xjcd!

Anyway, any advice on where to start with my new turbo would be appreciated. I figure I want to get this one running first, then do all the other fun stuff.

Thanks!

 

What a fun thing to find on Craigslist! You might check with Len (xjforever) to see if he can get you a factory printed manual for the little beastie. I rode with a group the other day and one of the guys had a turbo Seca. It was definitely a goer.

I'm currently minding my own business regularly on the Portland and Seattle Craigslist sites looking for a 14' or 15' DuroBoat to load on top of my F150 pickup with the electric Eide boat loader I discovered for $100 while minding my own business on Seattle Craigslist. Retail for the loader is $1550. Vive Craigslist!

Loren

 

Got bit by the Turbo bug, too, eh? I'm fixing one up for a friend... Strange little creatures!

At 6K on the clock, your Turbo should be in good shape. Make sure the turbine shaft is not seized up and doesn't have a whole lot of play (it will wobble just a little bit, since it's a floating bearing setup). Make sure the waste gate valve moves freely. Also, check the fins of the turbine impellers for damage. Hook up the fuel pump to a feeder bottle and power it up... Run some fresh gas through it, maybe with a bit of Seafoam. If you don't see pulverized pump innards coming out, it's probably fine. The throttle shaft seals in the carbs are probably toast. Len (Chacal) has new ones available.

 

Sounds like it's been sitting for some time. I'd make sure the check valves in the oil supply and return for the Turbo are not stuck and clean them before you spin it up. The Turbo needs that oil for lubrication and cooling. Be very careful taking the bolts off these lines and dont break the flanges on them. Might shoot them with some Aero-Kroil to soak while your doing those carbs.

Looks like the RH muffler missing, a common thing. At least on mine. However I found a good set of mufflers for $50 along with a power-up kit and another pressure regulator for $30 just before I sold it.

I repaired the mounting tabs with aluminum strips for that seat fairing.

Nice find though! I had gottten mine in alot worse shape for $300 a couple years ago.

 

I have a picked over parts bike if you are missing anything.
Good luck with your new toy.

 

Thanks for all the advice. I won't be diving right away into it (still have the 750 Seca to finish) but I can't wait.

Luckily I really don't think it's missing anything except the turn signal lenses, but we'll see what actually works as I get into it. After the 750, I fully expected to rebuild brakes (one caliper is frozen and draped over the frame) carbs, and clean up all electrical contacts. The mufflers are both there, original with the end caps too. They do have some rust pitting through the black paint.

 

Good luck with your Turbo, I hope we can share rebuild info!

Eric

 

The fuel system is "unusual" on these bikes. Everything has to work perfectly or you will have problems. And they don't like to sit. Once it's done, ride it on at least a semi-regular basis. I have had 5 of them, counting the one I have now. I will try to help in any way I can.

 

I’m jealous! GOOD find!!

I called this person :roll:

http://www.collectorcarsandbikes.com/di ... ey2=f_make

in May this yr.

He got upset when I asked if it ran (hay you never know).
He started talking bad to me when I asked if he knew the last time it ran.

When I told him this conversation wasn’t going too well and reintroduced myself he got a little nicer.

When I asked about the title he started getting upset again.
When I asked about a bill of sale he started talking bad again.

Anybody click on that link?

HE’s STILL GOT IT!!. Got him down to $400.00
but by that time I had lost ALL interest in HIS turbo!!

ab

 

I would be leary of that turbo. There is no plastic other than the tail trim, the clutch cover looks to be wrong. I do not believe its supposed to be shiny like it is, supposed to be black. Someone might have painted over the engine since you can not make out any detail on the crank covers. Almost wonder if it is a normally aspirated motor instead of the turbo motor.

I have really liked the turbo seca, Get looks wherever a motorcycle gathering is. Makes for a great sport tourer, but like the others have said you must drive it weekly. Or you will run into trouble. Riding it weekly means putting at least 10 miles on it to keep the carbs from gumming up and the oil fresh. Any help I can be, I have two of the Turbo's, one is my daily driver and the other is its parts bin

Sean

 

Well it'll be some time before I get to the turbo, it's getting cold up here and my pond's frozen, so I've got to keep it in skating condition and get the snowblowers ready for the blizzard that's supposed to come tomorrow. But since my leisure reading now includes the factory manual, I'd like to share an excerpt from page 5:

"The XJ650 turbo computer monitor system features:
1. Easy-to-see pictographic displays; a further improvement upon the XJ750 computer monitor."

I guess "easy-to-see" may be a loose translation for obtrusive or conspicuous, or sticks out like a sore thumb. At least this one will be wrapped in a fairing :roll:

 

Well, almost 2 years later, and I'm finally getting around to this bike. I've moved twice, crashed, fixed my crashed bike, and fixed another I got in trade and plan to sell. Finally, this turbo might have it's day.

Keep in mind, I plan on a full resto, minus paint (except maybe some small parts). Question is how do I start?

I just compression tested it, got 110-120-130-120. Now this is an 8.2-1 compression ratio, and the manual says 114-121. Should I be worried? #1 and #4 has some corrosion on the plugs, so I'm sure those valves were left open. Also,#1 was around 90, and #4 was initially at 100 or so, but after spinning the motor around a bit and testing again, they picked up.

Also, I noticed that there was no oil in the sight window after I did the compression test. When I got the bike (2 years ago) I changed the oil, and filled it up to the top mark in the sight window. Does this mean that there's a stuck oil valve to the turbo?

I'm thinking I should I pull everything off the frame except the engine, clean everything up and reinstall with all new rubber bits.

 

I just read the entire thread again since the last time I read it was last year when I got my turbo. Glad to see it's finally made it to the front of the line!!!


"I'm thinking I should I pull everything off the frame except the engine, clean everything up and reinstall with all new rubber bits."

Exactly perfect way to start! Do NOT worry about the compression, it will increase once the engine is running again. Rings will very, very slowly revert to their relaxed state(which isn't perfectly round) when they aren't used. Typically, they will gain 3-5psi with renewed use.

Like the other guys said, go ahead and order the complete carb kits(including the shaft seals, fuel check valve seal etc) and be prepared to pull the rack and do a complete rebuild to them. Decide before you order if you are up to the job because that way, you can make arrangements with someone else to rebuild them for you. I've yet to see any 30 year old carb whose original rubber seals weren't on the verge of disintergration so it needs to be done so you won't have trouble down the road.

Also, take a peek at the valve clearences. I know it only had 6K on it but since valves tend to close as they wear, you don't want the heat buildup of a tight valve or 3.....the turbo runs HOT so it's a bit more important then a "regular" engine.

Congratulations! You'll have fun with this build, I did.....you're also in luck...there's a seller on fleabay asking some VERY fair pricing for his stuff....I just bought a 75 dollar part (perfect front fender)for 25...all I had to do was to write and ask. Mine looks great but was missing the 1x4 inch piece on the left side, like most of them are.

Post up if you need anything...you do have the turbo supplement, right? I can send it to you if you need it.

jeff

 

Dang, just noticed where you live....I had forgot we talked before and you're right up the beltway from my office. If you jammed up, I'll stop over....then you'll REALLY have problems<LOL>!!

jeff

 

Well I was actually reading this thread, and something BigFitz said has me a little worried. Spark plug #1 has some corrosion on the base ring, and #4 had a thick bubbly corrosion. So I'm a little concerned with the rings "scraping the corrosion off and getting stuck." It sat for a LONG time. Maybe I shouldn't worry with those numbers?

I will be adjusting the valves before I ever run the motor, and a full carb tear-down rack breaking will be in order. I've done a lot of this on my 750, so I'm not looking to cut any corners. I want to make sure the whole intake-engine-exhaust is 100% before firing it up and trying to troubleshoot.

The other concern I have is the oil level. I've read that oil valves that feed the turbo can get stuck open, and I have a feeling that I'll have to take care of this, since the level is now low, and it hasn't been leaking from anywhere.

I'll be soaking everything in Kroil this weekend, and start removing the exhaust after a coulpe of days. I'm really interested in some of the upgrades you did JeffK.

Also, I slept on the whole painting thing, and now I'm really interested in doing it up right. Problem is, I don't have a space that I can spray in the winter. I do have a detatched garage, but no power, so I'd have to figure out lighting and heat.

 

I use a 10 gauge contractor grade extension cord to run power to my shed in the winter.

I run the cord to a power strip then have a 4' florescent light that i ran some wire from with a plug on the end so I can just plug it in when I need light.

I run the 4' light, a ceramic heater, radio, and my laptop.

 

Problem is, the only outdoor outlet at the place I'm renting is on a light post, and the light has to be on. Not sure how much power I can run through that circuit before a breaker trips, and the breaker is in someone else's unit.

I'll figure something out. Maybe just paint with the door open and a propane heater in the daytime.

 

FYI----after running my engine, it can up to 15 minutes for the oil level to return to normal.....wierdest thing I ever saw but true...ok, maybe not the wierdest thing, that probably had to do with a naked woman, a pony and a goat wearing a rubber duck in Mexico but that's a whole different story....still, it takes a long time for the oil to come back down.

Honestly, I think I'd drop a tblspn of 10-40 into each cylinder and turn it over a few times with the plugs out and a towel placed over the head to catch any oil. You just want to throughly lube the walls and help "wash" and junk to the crank case since you'll be changing the oil and filter as part of your build. the 110-130 spread is wider then any decent mechanic wants to see but on a 4 cyl inline, spinning at 8500 rpm with turbo induction, it's importance lessens, not becomes greater so make the decision either way now if you'll plan on a total top end or not. Personally, I'd leave it alone but there are those who would probably insist on replacing the pistons/rings. The low miles has me believing that it will be ok once it starts running again.

That all said, it has two check valves, one you'll find when you remove the oil supply to the turbo at the filter housing. Its' a standard spring and ball assembly housed in the end of a bolt, careful removing this as the sheeth(4mm high plastic sleeve) can separate from the bolt. They are almost impossible to find anymore so if you see one come up on ebay, buy it....even if its 25 bucks delivered....buy it. You'll either need it now or later so it will be nice to have. I keep mine(extra one) on my "yamaha" shelf so I'll be able to find it when I need it. The second is actually inside the return section of the turbos oil pump. You will not see it unless you split the cases. Not to worry though since there is a convienient section of rubber hose on the oil return line where you can insert a small check valve it you find that it leaks!! MUCH easier and just as effective than splitting the cases.

Your build will probably include a turbo rebuild if you are going to run the 18psi that I run. Consider that the turbo shaft spins at 185,000 rpm.....and can reach speeds of 215,000rpm.Yes, you read that correctly....it spins in a "oil bearing" so clean oil is a must.....I change mine every 500 miles. the 130 bucks for the rebuild kit seemed reasonable considering the speeds that it spins but I can hook you up with a guy that sells just the actual rings for only a few bucks. I don't know anyone that has actually installed a set yet but he did a bunch of reaserch and found a place that sold him 50 sets pretty cheap over in China. Might be worth a try, but that's up to you.I bought a couple sets from him but I bought them more as a favor to him then because I planned on installing them.

jeff

 

Well I've made some progress the last two weekends. I soaked all of the exhaust hardware in kroil (except for a bolt or two that I couldn't see) and let it sit for a week. Every bolt that I soaked came off with ease. I used a wrench and hammer as an impact driver, but everything came off without incident.

I pulled the turbo and all of it's oil lines, and I didn't see ANY oil leaking from ANYWHERE. So that's a bit of a mystery that I'm going to have to solve, but it doesn't look like it's leaked out of any valves to the turbo.

The turbo and compressor impellers seem to spin smoothly without any play or resistance, but I don't know much about turbos. JeffK, maybe I can stop by with the turbo and you can tell me what you think of its condition. 18psi boost is mighty tempting.

I decided that since the bike has only 6k miles on it, and blows good compression, I'll go ahead and do it up nice. I've purchased a cheap propane heater for the garage and I'll get some lights and an extension cord, and paint this winter. We'll see if the little heater can keep the cold at bay, especially since it's an outdoor heater, I'll have to keep the door open. First test of my setup is going to be the headers and mufflers, and the little ducty things on top of the valve cover.

And speaking of exhaust, there was this nasty, rusty, milkish substance at the bottom of the collector. Should I do anything to flush this stuff out?

So I'm going to take it down to the frame, and repaint everything. Just going to stick with rattle cans, since I don't have power to run a compressor, and none of the paint should be coming in contact with gasoline anyway. Halfway done pulling off the wiring harness and removed everything off the rear of the frame. I'll need to start taking more pics as I build it up.

 

:lol: That's Funny!