What did you do to your Yamaha today?

Whatever tool you use (i suggest a Allen wrench) to remove the screws should be held straight into the Allen head. Any angles or side to side motion will increase the chance of breaking one. Hope this helps.

Gary H.

 

Actually I did this over the weekend...
Dusted it off, did a quick carb cleanup, charged the battery, dumped the oil and took it for a spin around the neighborhood. Felt good.

Gary H.

 

Make it break loose with a slight turn to tighten. Don't turn any tighter than you have to in order to make the head move. This causes the threads to twist and stretch the screw which should break up any corrosion. Trying to loosen a seized screw or bolt forces all of the tension on the head as the head raises up. Once you crack the threads loose some, work it back and forth to grind up the corrosion.

 

Today I swapped out the one turn signal that was black for the correct chrome one. Scored it off Ebay for $10.

 

black light have the different lens? kind of wraps on 1 side?

 

Yes. Same as my seca 750 just chrome.

 

In fact lens are the same. I put LED on the 750 and the original lens from it were in perfect same. I swapped them to the 900.

 

That's pretty!

 

Thank you!!

 

Good tip, I'm a little worried and I can't find a simple guide in the Haynes manual. Thanks!

 

Thank you! Shes not perfect but she runs and rides beautiful. Had to replace a front tire and rebuild all three calipers but for $1000 I can't complain.

 

So today ,I was reading news at lunch and seen an article that caught my attention. Kbid in Minnesota a guy is selling off 500 motorcycles...so I looked it over some bikes were complete with titles and some just parts bikes with no titles. I've never bid on an auction like this but a 1.00$ bid equals 001cent to 75$ and goes up a 100$ bid can equal up to 50000$ as I understand it...needless to say I don't think I will bid on anything. But maybe someone else might be interested there were several "Maxum" (Maxim) on the there 650,750, a few 550 . Cheers

 

Just looked into this, check out the "additional fees" section. Each bike will come with at least $130 in taxes and handling fees right off the time...if I am reading the correctly.
https://www.k-bid.com/auction/29939

 

I'm thinking this not such a good "deal" it is a shame a couple looked like they would be a good bike .

 

Tonight I opened up my bad starter to find it full of oil...

 

Found cyl 2 running lean only under load. Checked diaphragm Sunday, HIGHLY suspect RTV 'fix' on top ring. Ordered JBM diaphragms Monday, came yesterday, threw them in; ~50 minutes work for all four.

Might be too familiar with removing/reinstalling these carbs.... Engine definitely feels better when accelerating. I have 140+ miles each way of travel scheduled this afternoon so we shall see!

 

not supposed to be oil in there. there is an old thread with same problem. odd how that can happen considering all the seals

 

Would you happen to have a guide for carb removal? This Sunday I'll be attempting to replace the carb to engine boots because the ones on there now are dry rotted.

TYIA!

(If I missed this guide somewhere, I did try searching)

 

If you still have the stock airbox(prefered) lossen clamps on the back of the carbs. Lift tank or remove there is a 10mm bolt at the Y of the frame remove this . Remove top of the airbox 3 screws ,remove air filter . Spray some silicone on the boots, push them into the airbox start on outboard sides. Lossen the clamps at the front on the intake boots, remove throttle cable and the choke cable. Use a hammer handle pry against carb top be gentle wiggle carbs till they come out of boots. That is simple removal, reinstall put some silicone grease ( Ace hardware in plumbing asle very handy stuff) inside lip of boots. Push carbs as even as possible into boots , if only one side goes in tighten down clamps and try the opposite side. Once carbs are back in boots , reach into airbox if your hands are small enough push airbox boots do the first 2 in middle. ( recommend a booger hook , hook tool ) use lots of spray silicone ) once you have the two center boots on tighten clamps. Then move to the outer boots . Once this is back together reinstall the 10mm bolt , put air filter back in and put top back on. Reinstall throttle cable, and choke cable . Please note if you are rebuilding carbs and you want to test , you can run without airbox hooked back up in case you have to remove carbs to reset float level etc. This might sound complicated , I can have carbs off in 20 min ( taking my time) and back on in about 30 min . Cheers hope this help.

 

remove fuel line from fuel tank then choke cable from carbs
you start by unbolting air box so it will move back some. then grind a screwdriver round like a tire spoon.
get a hair drier.
heat up the airbox to carb boot to soften it and work the edge of the boot into the air box with spoon so it will slide back into box.
next loosen clamps on manifold boots and use a wooden hammer handle to pry carbs back out of boots. they will roll out
push bank out right side disconnect the throttle cable.