Would pulling the taper spindle out disable anti dive?

Hey all,

Im going through my forks, and instead of buying $60 bux USD worth of missing washers (flat and spring for both forks), thought it would be a better idea to just eliminate the spindle and not bother with the washers.

If my understanding is correct, this would basically just disable anything that the antidive would do. Even though they would functionally still be there. Meaning the fork oil would just go from he inside of the damping rod through the holes in the bottom and to the outside of the lower fork.

The only thing I'm not sure of, would this create too little a resistance path for the oil, not going through the anti dives? As basically the oil just goes through the holes at the bottom of the damper rod and that's it.
Edit: and maybe make them actually bouncy for lack of rebound?

I always found my shocks to have a lot of stiction and they don't soak up little bumps at all. I thought this may solve two problems, one the issue with the stillness of the forks, and two, I don't have to buy $60 USD worth of washers.

Maybe going up to 20W oil would counter act this?

What are your thoughts guys?

 

the anti dive unit is to slow or prevent braking dive it can be disabled.

the 20 wt fork oil is the standard oil for the 750 RH and 750 RJ

 

I meant more because I have 15 weight in it right now.

 

Also had a little surprise when I pulled the steering, check the album.
https://goo.gl/photos/KxoEY1citcGeo78Q9


Someone has already changed these bearings out, I thought for sure they were original. Also I really need to do something about the wiring lol.

There's no lip to get a drift on the race to punch it out either not sure how I'm going to get that out.

 

The taper spindle locates the damper rod in the lower fork bore. Remove it and you will have a very bad day (though failure won't come right away).

If you want to eliminate the anti-dive, all you need to do is get two single-banjo union bolts, and two undrilled bolts. Remove the brake line from the caliper and the anti-dive unit. Block off the anti dive with the undrilled bolts, and replace the main brake line to the calipers with the single-banjo bolts.

The anti-dive does not effect normal fork operation. It only comes into play when the brakes are applied. It is really just an active from of adjustable compression damping.

Which washers are missing? If it is the thin wave washers, they need to be on the taper spindle regardless of whether the anti-dive is working or not.

As for the steering bearings, they don't need to come out. Clean and repack. The whole reason for installing tapered roller bearings is that they do not wear the races out like ball bearings do.

 

I've got a definite notch right when the bars are straight ahead, so they have to be replaced. Might have to buy a torch to get some heat on the neck. I can't get the races to budge not very happy. Lol

The first priority isn't to get rid of the anti dive, it's to not have to spend $100 CAN on 4 washers. I mean I've been running what 5 years without them, but that isn't the best solution.

I was under the impression that the washers just kept the taper in the down position, unless you hit a bump and the antidive was active, so it let a little oil through to help smooth it out. Is that not the function of the taper piece and the washers?

 

You and I are taking about different parts I think. I thought you were referring to what Yamaha calls the oil lock. You can leave the truncated cone valve out, or just leave well enough alone since the springs are out anyway.

Instead of heating the steering neck, try freezing the races. Get a can of Dust-Off (or similar), invert the can, and allow the refrigerant to dribble onto the race. Be sure to do this in a ery well ventelated area so you don't asphyxiate yourself. If you use an old screwdriver instead of a drift you will find that there is just barely enough of a lip to catch the race and drive it out.

 

Ahh this makes sense now Moe, sorry yes I was talking about the "cone valve".

I've got some canned air, and had read about trying this, but on a second time hearing it I'll give it a shot worst case I'll go grab a cheap a couple cheap puller fingers and see if they can grab a lip to help get them out.

Thanks Moe!

 

You can also just swap the forks out for 750 Maxim forks.......totally eliminate all the anti-dive stuff. Swap the whole front.

 

Ahhh yes I'll keep that in mind as well Hog, thanks!