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XJ PARTS CATALOG, SECTION E: ENGINE

Discussion in 'XJ4Ever - Supporting Vendor' started by chacal, Oct 12, 2013.

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  1. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    STARTER CLUTCH REBUILD PARTS:

    sms6) OEM and aftermarket parts to rebuild your STARTER MOTOR CLUTCH DRIVE. Yamaha used a "centrifugal clutch" type of drive system to engage and disengage the starter motor drive from the engine:



    and over time the springs, spring caps, and roller pins that provide the engagement action can fail....which is terrible, as these are a real pain to replace, and always requires the dis-assembly of the upper and lower engine cases:

    http://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/xj750-engine-removal-and-split-pictures.38545


    However, there are a few alternative methods that might (or might not) save you some incredible effort and allow you to "dodge a bullet" and repair your starter clutch system in an easier manner; but, the success of such methods really depends upon whether the clutch failure is due to mechanical wear or damage to the pins, caps, or springs (in which case, you MUST somehow get in there and replace those items), or, if the caps and pins are merely "seized" in the starter clutch hub due to accumulated varnish and sludge, etc.----and in such a situation, then you might be able to clean out the mess and restore the clutch to an operational condition.

    Methods a) and b) below address the problem of "sludge-seized" component pieces. Method c) deals with the problem of damaged parts. Note that if any of the major components are damaged---the clutch hub, or any idle gears or sprockets---then the engine is going to have to come out and taken apart to allow access to such larger pieces.

    a) Pull the starter motor.....or, even better, the alternator shaft housing.......and shoot lots of solvent (seafoam, carb or brake cleaner, etc.) directly onto and into the Starter Clutch Assembly. Then, drain all of your engine oil and refill with fresh oil. Run the engine while on the centerstand until it's warmed up, drain the oil again, and fill with fresh oil. If the starter clutch was just sticking, this method may wash away enough of the accumulated gunk and set you on your way.

    b) Next, it may be necessary to actually run a solvent in with the engine oil in an attempt to loosen any engine oil sludge that has accumulated over time, and locked the starter clutch roller pins. Of course, such solvent should be run in the engine with the bike on the centerstand, and not any under load!!! Then drain and flush this solvent-and-oil mixture, refill with fresh oil-only, run on the centerstand again, and then drain and refill with fresh oil-only again......now you can ride it again. You want to make DARNED SURE that you get all of the solvent-saturated oil out of the crankcase before you put the engine under load, and risk chewing up engine bearings, etc. with solvent-thinned oil!


    AND, be aware that a failing battery and/or a starter motor with a shorted winding or excessive carbon build-up on the commutator, or even burnt contacts in the starter solenoid, can reduce current to the starter motor to a point where it can't produce enough torque upon the starter clutch, and thus mimic starter clutch failure symptoms (that "bag of rocks" sound and an engine that doesn't turn over), so be sure to eliminate those as potential problems before digging into your engine!

    www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/a-handy-guide-to-not-rebuilding-your-slipping-starter-clutch.130438


    ALSO, TAKE NOTE OF THIS EXPERIENCE FROM ANOTHER XJ-OWNER:

    "If there is not enough grip between the plunger and the roller, it can skip, causing the grinding, clacking noises you hear. I have been told by a Yamaha mechanic with over 20 years experience that it is very possible for some synthetics to greatly increase the chances that this will occur......"

    So this weekend I drained the synthetic out, put some cheap 20W50 in, and rode it for a little while. Then I drained the cheap oil out and put Castrol GTX 20W50 in and the starter does not malfunction anymore, not even once! I can't believe it! I guess these bikes were not made to run synthetic---I'm sticking with conventional oil from now on."


    c) If none of the above solutions work, then it might be time to do the dirty deed. If you read this thread, you'll get a good idea of what challenges you're up against.

    http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/1700

    When you finally get the starter clutch assembly out of the engine and available for rebuild, we suggest that the central hub unit be inspected carefully for any damage or cracks, and replaced if needed. Here is a common problem that you need to look for (scroll down for the image of the cracked hub):

    http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/18676

    There’s only one way to repair a starter clutch that’s bad without splitting the engine cases, and it ain’t pretty:

    http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/48348


    By the way, if you do decide to split the engine open and perform open-heart surgery, you might as well replace the primary chain and guide while you're in there, as those are also "wear items" and will cause problems if and when they start failing!


    Starter Clutch Components and Operation:

    The general layout of the starter motor clutch system is as follows (it differs slightly between the various engine types, but overall, here is what is happening):

    a) the starter motor gear operates upon a PRIMARY IDLER GEAR (which is supported on its own shaft)....

    b) which in turn spins the another INTERMEDIATE IDLER GEAR attached to the rear side of the STARTER CLUTCH ASSEMBLY.

    By the way, if your engine is locked up for some reason (carbs flooded and hydrolocked a cylinder, for example), it's possible that a starter motor in good shape---and backed up by a good battery---can strip out the about two gears, as seen in this very nice thread:

    https://www.xjrider.com/viewtopic.php?t=6298

    A starter motor that spins, without turning over the engine, is symptomatic of this type of (fortunately) rare problem.


    c) This entire "starter clutch assembly" consists of the above intermediate idler gear and a CENTRAL HUB UNIT which contains the centrifugally-operated springs, caps, and roller pins which lock the starter clutch operation to the starter motor. Failure of both the hub unit itself (it can develop hairline---or larger----cracks over time) as well as wear or seizure of the springs, caps, or roller pins accounts for 99.9% of all starter clutch problems and failures.

    d) The "central hub unit" is attached via rubber ABSORBERS operating on the STARTER WHEEL to the starter clutch OUTER COVER, and this outer cover has a DRIVEN GEAR which is operated by the PRIMARY CHAIN, referred to in technical manuals as the "Hy-Vo" chain. Hy-Vo Chain is a unique type of Silent Chain. Hy-Vo stands for High Capacity, High Velocity, and Involute Tooth, and it is a registered trademark of Borg-Warner Automotive, Inc.

    http://chain-guide.com/applications/1-6-3-inverted-tooth-chain.html


    e) The starter clutch assembly rides upon the same shaft that drives the alternator.

    f) If you are going to have the starter clutch assembly out of the engine and available for rebuild, we suggest that the central hub unit be inspected carefully for any damage or cracks, and replaced if needed. Here is a common problem that you need to look for (scroll down for the image of the cracked hub):

    http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/starter-clutch.14924/

    Also take note that if the hub is not cracked, there is some good advice about re-conditioning the hub that you may wish to follow.

    If the hub is secure, then always replace the springs, caps, and pins, as well as the rubber absorbers used within the starter wheel.

    http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/complete-xj650-rebuild.81981/page-2#post-500076



    Starter Clutch Primary Idler Gear:

    HCP8687 OEM starter clutch system PRIMARY IDLER GEAR, for all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines.
    $ 52.95

    HCP18661 OEM starter clutch system primary idler gear SHAFT, for all FJ600, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines.
    $ 23.95

    HCP8688 OEM starter clutch system primary idler gear shaft RETAINER PLATE, for all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines.
    $ 2.95




    HCP2171 OEM starter clutch system primary idler gear shaft retainer plate BOLT, 6-point hex head alloy steel fastener with a bright zinc-plated finish, for all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines.
    $ 3.95

    HCP24067 Aftermarket starter clutch system primary idler gear shaft retainer plate BOLT, 6-point hex head alloy steel fastener with a bright zinc-plated finish, for all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines.
    $ 1.95

    HCP24077 Aftermarket starter clutch system primary idler gear shaft retainer plate BOLT, 6-point hex head 18/8 stainless steel fastener with a bright finish, for all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines.
    $ 2.95

    HCP24078 Aftermarket starter clutch system primary idler gear shaft retainer plate BOLT, 6-point hex head 316 stainless steel fastener with a bright finish, for all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines.
    $ 3.95

    HCP6639 Aftermarket starter clutch system primary idler gear shaft retainer plate BOLT, socket head (hex-key drive) 18/8 stainless steel fastener with a bright finish, for all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines.
    $ 2.95

    HCP24075 Aftermarket starter clutch system primary idler gear shaft retainer plate BOLT, socket head (hex-key drive) 18/8 stainless steel fastener with a bright finish, for all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines.
    $ 2.95

    HCP6640 Aftermarket starter clutch system primary idler gear shaft retainer plate BOLT, socket head (hex-key drive) black oxide-coated alloy steel fastener. Fits all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines.
    $ 1.95




    HCP8689 OEM starter clutch system primary idler gear shaft retainer plate bolt LOCK WASHER, for all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines.
    $ 4.95


    HCP3144 OEM starter clutch system primary idler gear shaft retaining CIRCLIP, for all XJ1100 engines.
    $ 8.95


    HCP12791 OEM starter clutch bearing housing cover O-RING, for all XJ1100 engines. Use 2 per cover. Each:
    $ 5.95


    HCP966 OEM starter clutch bearing housing cover MOUNTING BOLT, alloy-steel, zinc-plated allen head hex-drive screw. Use 3 per cover on all XJ1100 engines. Use 3 per cover. Each:
    $ 7.95

    HCP22253 Aftermarket starter clutch bearing housing cover MOUNTING BOLT, alloy-steel, zinc-plated allen head hex-drive screw. Use 3 per cover on all XJ1100 engines. Each:
    $ 1.95

    HCP228 Aftermarket starter clutch bearing housing cover MOUNTING BOLT, allen head hex-drive, black-oxide coated. Uses 3 per cover. Fits all XJ1100 models. Each:
    $ 1.95

    HCP2779 Aftermarket starter clutch bearing housing cover MOUNTING BOLT, allen head hex-drive, black-oxide finish, features self-locking threads. Uses 3 per cover. Fits all XJ1100 models. Each:
    $ 2.95

    HCP226 Aftermarket starter clutch bearing housing cover MOUNTING BOLT, allen head hex-drive, bright 18-8 stainless steel finish. Uses 3 per cover. Fits all XJ1100 models. Each:
    $ 2.95



    Starter Clutch Intermediate Idler Gear:

    HCP8695 OEM starter clutch system INTERMEDIATE IDLER GEAR, for all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines. Comes with the internal bronze bushing.
    $ 149.95

    HCP8700 OEM starter clutch system intermediate idler gear COLLAR, for all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines.
    $ discontinued



    Starter Clutch Complete Hub Unit:

    HCP8667 OEM starter clutch complete CENTRAL HUB UNIT, includes the compression springs, caps, and roller pins. For all XJ550 and FJ600 engines.
    $ 299.95


    HCP8690 OEM starter clutch complete CENTRAL HUB UNIT, this outer housing unit includes the compression springs, caps, and roller pins. For all XJ650 and 1981-83 XJ750 air-cooled engines. NOTE: you can use the stronger XJ700/XJ750-X/XJ900 unit in place of this one for increased durability and more reliable performance.
    $ 179.95

    HCP23830 Aftermarket starter clutch complete CENTRAL HUB UNIT, this outer housing unit includes the compression springs, caps, and roller pins. For all XJ650 and 1981-83 XJ750 air-cooled engines. NOTE: you can use the stronger XJ700/XJ750-X/XJ900 unit in place of this one for increased durability and more reliable performance.
    $ 129.95


    HCP8691 OEM starter clutch complete CENTRAL HUB UNIT, this outer housing unit includes the compression springs, caps, and roller pins. For all XJ700, XJ750-X, and all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines. NOTE: you can use this unit in place of the stock XJ650 / 1981-83 XJ750 version for increased durability and more reliable performance
    $ 259.95

    HCP24017 Aftermarket starter clutch complete CENTRAL HUB UNIT, this outer housing unit includes the compression springs, caps, and roller pins. For all XJ700, XJ750-X, and all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines. NOTE: you can use this unit in place of the stock XJ650 / 1981-83 XJ750 version for increased durability and more reliable performance.
    $ 169.95


    HCP8707 OEM starter clutch complete CENTRAL HUB UNIT, this outer housing unit includes the compression springs, caps, and roller pins. For all XJ1100 and XS1100 engines.
    $ 399.95



    Starter Clutch Hub Rebuild Kit:

    These oem-quality replacements give you all of the parts needed to restore the central hub unit.

    Each basic rebuild kit contains 3 each of the clutch hub springs, spring caps, and rollers, while the full rebuild kits also includes the rubber starter wheel absorbers, and the inner-to-outer clutch hub cinching bolts.


    HCP29301 Aftermarket starter clutch hub BASIC REBUILD KIT, contains 3 each of the clutch hub springs, spring caps, and rollers. Fits XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, 1986-90 YX600 Radian, 1982-83 XS400, 1982-83 XZ550 Vision, 1988-95 XV535 Virago, 1994-97 YZF750R, 1989-95 FZR1000, 1986-98 VMX12, 1983-84 XVZ12, 1985-93 XVZ13, and 1997 YZF1000R models. Each kit:
    $ 62.95

    HCP29342 Aftermarket starter clutch hub FULL REBUILD KIT, contains 3 each of the clutch hub springs, spring caps, and rollers, 4 of the rubber absorbers, and 3 of the inner-to-outer hub retaining bolts. Fits XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, and 1986-90 YX600 Radian models. Each kit:
    $ 119.95


    HCP29334 Aftermarket starter clutch hub BASIC REBUILD KIT, contains 3 each of the clutch hub springs, spring caps, and rollers. Fits all XJ650 and all XJ750 air-cooled models. Each kit:
    $ 64.95

    HCP29343 Aftermarket starter clutch hub FULL REBUILD KIT, contains 3 each of the clutch hub springs, spring caps, and rollers, 4 of the rubber absorbers, and 3 of the inner-to-outer hub retaining bolts. Fits all XJ650 and all XJ750 air-cooled models. Each kit:
    $ 114.95


    HCP29308 Aftermarket starter clutch hub BASIC REBUILD KIT, contains 3 each of the clutch hub springs, spring caps, and rollers. Fits all XJ700, XJ750-X, and all 1983-89 XJ900 models. NOTE: this kit can be used as an “upgrade” kit for the XJ650 and all XJ750 air-cooled engines. Each kit:
    $ 69.95

    HCP29344 Aftermarket starter clutch hub FULL REBUILD KIT, contains 3 each of the clutch hub springs, spring caps, and rollers, 4 of the rubber absorbers, and 3 of the inner-to-outer hub retaining bolts. Fits all XJ700, XJ750-X, and all 1983-89 XJ900 models. NOTE: this kit can be used as an “upgrade” kit for the XJ650 and all XJ750 air-cooled engines. Each kit:
    $ 119.95



    HCP29300 Aftermarket starter clutch hub REBUILD KIT, contains 3 each of the clutch hub springs, spring caps, and rollers. Fits all of the following models: XS1100 all models, XS850 all models, 1984-85 FJ1100, and 1986-93 FJ1200 models. Each kit:
    $ 59.95



    Starter Clutch Hub Compression Spring:

    HCP8670 OEM starter clutch hub COMPRESSION SPRING, use 3 per clutch, for all XJ550 and FJ600 models, each:
    $ 6.95

    HCP8692 OEM starter clutch hub COMPRESSION SPRINGS, use 3 per clutch, for all XJ650 and XJ750 models, each:
    $ 8.95

    HCP8693 OEM starter clutch hub COMPRESSION SPRINGS, use 3 per clutch, for all XJ700, all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines, XJ1100, and all XS1100 models. Each: NOTE: you can use this spring in place of the stock XJ650 / 1981-83 XJ750 spring for increased durability and more reliable performance
    $ 8.95



    Starter Clutch Hub Spring End Cap:

    HCP8669 OEM starter clutch hub compression spring END CAP, use 1 per spring, 3 per clutch, for all XJ550, FJ600, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines, XJ1100, and all XS1100 models. Each:
    $ 18.95



    Starter Clutch Hub Roller:

    HCP8668 OEM starter clutch hub compression spring ROLLER, use 3 per clutch, for all XJ550, FJ600, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines, each:
    $ 7.95

    HCP8708 OEM starter clutch hub compression spring ROLLER, use 3 per clutch, for all XJ1100 and XS1100 models, each:
    $ 14.95



    Starter Clutch Hub Mounting Bolt:

    HCP8672 OEM starter clutch hub MOUNTING BOLT, use 3 per clutch, for all XJ550, FJ600, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines, each:
    $ 7.95

    HCP10474 Aftermarket starter clutch hub MOUNTING BOLT, use 3 per clutch, for all XJ550, FJ600, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines, each:
    $ 4.95



    Starter Clutch Starter Wheel Components:

    HCP8673 OEM starter clutch system starter wheel ABSORBER, use 4 per wheel, for all XJ550 and FJ600 engines. Each:
    $ 15.95

    HCP8697 OEM starter clutch system starter wheel ABSORBER, use 4 per wheel, for all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines. Each:
    $ 12.95



    Starter Clutch Driven Gear:

    HCP8698 OEM starter clutch cover DRIVEN GEAR, for all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines.
    $ discontinued

    HCP3144 OEM starter clutch cover driven gear CIRCLIP, for all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines.
    $ 8.95



    Starter Clutch Primary Drive Chain:

    Referred to in the service manuals as "Hy-Vo Chain, the primary drive chains is a unique type of silent-running chain. Hy-Vo stands for High Capacity, High Velocity, and Involute Tooth, and it is a registered trademark of Borg-Warner Automotive, Inc.

    http://chain-guide.com/applications/1-6-3-inverted-tooth-chain.html

    These chains…..although stout and practically bullet-proof in regards to breakage…….can and will eventually stretch to the point where they will destroy their rubber GUIDE (HCP7551) and/or chew away at the oil spray NOZZLE (HCP10232)….which then only accelerates the wear on the chain. Unfortunately, Yamaha never provided any specs on how to determine whether the chain is stretched, or how much stretch is allowable. Experience provides a general rule of thumb, though: if your engine has more than 50,000 miles on it, and you need to “go inside” the engine for any other reason, we suggest replacing the chain and the guide (and rebuild or replace the starter clutch hub unit) “just to be sure”.

    A comparison of the difference between a new and a used chain (HCP7197 shown) can be seem at:

    https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/xj750-engine-removal-and-split-pictures.38545


    HCP7874 OEM starter clutch PRIMARY CHAIN, for all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, and 1986-90 YX600 Radian models.
    $ 349.95

    HCP29331 Aftermarket starter clutch PRIMARY CHAIN, for all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, and 1986-90 YX600 Radian models.
    $ 219.95


    HCP22540 OEM starter clutch PRIMARY CHAIN, for all 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II models.
    $ 139.95


    HCP7197 OEM starter clutch PRIMARY CHAIN, for all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F models.
    $ 299.95

    HCP29332 Aftermarket starter clutch PRIMARY CHAIN, for all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F models.
    $ 159.95


    HCP8640 OEM starter clutch PRIMARY CHAIN, for all XJ1100 and XS1100 models.
    $ discontinued

    HCP29333 Aftermarket starter clutch PRIMARY CHAIN, for all XJ1100 and XS1100 models.
    $ 339.95



    Starter Clutch Primary Chain Guide:

    This plastic chain guide should always be replaced when the engine is apart. Similar in design and concept to the camshaft drive chain guides, as it ages it gets hard and starts shedding small (or large) chunks of plastic into the engine, some of which invariably end up in the gear shifter drum assembly.....causing you to lose the ability to upshift or downshift into some (or all) of your gears. In fact, if you experience such a shifting problem, and remove the shifter drum and dig out hunks of plastic, this is a sure sign of impending starter primary chain guide failure (followed closely by the failure of the primary chain). Pieces of hard plastic discovered during an oil change may also point to the same problem.

    A great visual of this "problem child" part can be seen on the 2nd image down on this page (visual is correct for XJ650-XJ900 engines):

    http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/bks-winter-restomod-project-82-xj650-seca.72850/page-7

    To get a better understanding of what is happening and what will be involved in solving the issue, this excellent illustrated guide on how to temporarily solve the problem of a disintegrating chain guide (and it locking up your shifter) you can review this guide from the xjcd.org website on how to do an “emergency” fix to the problem (i.e. when you're a million miles away from home):

    https://www.xjcd.org/emergency_guidectomy


    HCP18662 OEM starter primary chain plastic GUIDE, for all XJ550 and 1984-85 FJ600 engines.
    $ 259.95

    HCP18662 OEM starter primary chain plastic GUIDE, for all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, and 1986-90 YX600 Radian engines.
    $ 259.95

    HCP22539 OEM starter primary chain plastic GUIDE, for all 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II models. NOTE: some original versions of this guide used three mounting bolt "tabs" (and required 3 mounting bolts). This replacement versions only uses two mounting tabs, and thus two mounting bolts (one at each end).
    $ 199.95

    HCP7551 OEM starter primary chain plastic GUIDE, for all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F models. NOTE: some original versions of this guide used three mounting bolt "tabs" (and required 3 mounting bolts). This replacement versions only uses two mounting tabs, and thus two mounting bolts (one at each end). NOTE: the guide is installed with the “teeth” facing “up” (towards the upper engine case), and the smooth side facing the chain.
    $ 39.95

    HCP8641 OEM starter primary chain plastic GUIDE, for all XJ1100 and XS1100 models.
    $ discontinued



    HCP4791 OEM starter primary chain plastic guide RETAINING BOLT, use 3 per guide, for all XJ550, FJ600, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F models. NOTE: some original versions of the guide may have had three mounting bolt "tabs" (and required 3 mounting bolts). The replacement HCP7551 Guide only uses two mounting tabs, and thus only two of these mounting bolts are required. Each:
    $ 7.95

    HCP6715 Aftermarket starter primary chain plastic guide RETAINING BOLT, use 3 per guide, for all XJ550, FJ600, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F models. NOTE: some original versions of the guide may have had three mounting bolt "tabs" (and required 3 mounting bolts). The replacement HCP7551 guide only uses two mounting tabs, and thus only two of these mounting bolts are required. Socket head, hex-drive, black-oxide coated alloy steel, each:
    $ 2.95

    HCP6716 starter primary chain plastic guide RETAINING BOLT, use 3 per guide, for all XJ550, FJ600, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F models. NOTE: some original versions of the guide may have had three mounting bolt "tabs" (and required 3 mounting bolts). The replacement HCP7551 guide only uses two mounting tabs, and thus only two of these mounting bolts are required. Socket head, hex-drive, 18-8 stainless steel, bright finish, each:
    $ 3.95



    HCP2171 OEM starter primary chain plastic guide RETAINING BOLT, 6-point hex head alloy steel fastener with a bright zinc-plated finish. Use 2 per guide, for all XJ1100 models, each:
    $32.95

    HCP24067 Aftermarket starter primary chain plastic guide RETAINING BOLT, 6-point hex head alloy steel fastener with a bright zinc-plated finish. Use 2 per guide, for all XJ1100 models, each:
    $ 1.95

    HCP24077 Aftermarket starter primary chain plastic guide RETAINING BOLT, 6-point hex head 18/8 stainless steel fastener with a bright finish. Use 2 per guide, for all XJ1100 models, each:
    $ 2.95

    HCP24078 Aftermarket starter primary chain plastic guide RETAINING BOLT, 6-point hex head 316 stainless steel fastener with a bright finish. Use 2 per guide, for all XJ1100 models, each:
    $ 3.95

    HCP6639 Aftermarket starter primary chain plastic guide RETAINING BOLT, socket head (hex-key drive) 18/8 stainless steel fastener with a bright finish. Use 2 per guide, for all XJ1100 models, each:
    $ 2.95

    HCP24075 Aftermarket starter primary chain plastic guide RETAINING BOLT, socket head (hex-key drive) 18/8 stainless steel fastener with a bright finish. Use 2 per guide, for all XJ1100 models, each:
    $ 2.95

    HCP6640 Aftermarket starter primary chain plastic guide RETAINING BOLT, socket head (hex-key drive) black oxide-coated alloy steel fastener. Use 2 per guide, for all XJ1100 models, each:




    Starter Clutch Primary Chain Tensioner and Lubrication:

    NOTE: XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1984-91 XJ600 Euro, 1986-88 FZ600, and 1986-90 YX600 Radian engines can make a particular type of “quiet” rhythmic, metallic knocking sound from the top end, which will disappear as rpm’s increase………..this is typically caused by the primary chain (inside the engine) which can “flop” around a bit at low rpm’s due to low oil pressure (oil pressure is used to tension this chain). It’s nothing to worry about.


    HCP13969 OEM starter chain and guide OIL SPRAY NOZZLE, use 1 per engine, fits all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, and 1986-90 YX600 Radian engines. O-ring is not included and should be ordered separate.
    $ 139.95

    HCP25652 OEM starter chain and guide OIL SPRAY NOZZLE, use 1 per engine, fits all 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II engines. O-ring is not included and should be ordered separate.
    $ 39.95


    HCP5400 OEM starter chain and guide oil spray nozzle O-RING, use 1 per engine, fits all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, 1986-90 YX600 Radian, and 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II models.
    $ 7.95

    HCP20977 Aftermarket starter chain and guide oil spray nozzle O-RING, use 1 per engine, fits all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, 1986-90 YX600 Radian, and 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II models.
    $ 5.95



    HCP20306 OEM primary chain TENSIONER, for all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, and 1986-90 YX600 Radian engines.
    $ discontinued

    HCP13977 OEM primary chain tensioner OIL DELIVERY PIPE, for all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, 1986-90 YX600 Radian, and 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II engines.
    $ 32.95

    HCP16825 OEM primary chain tensioner SPRING, for all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, 1986-90 YX600 Radian, and 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II engines.
    $ discontinued

    HCP23512 OEM primary chain tensioner PLUNGER, for all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, 1986-90 YX600 Radian, and 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II engines.
    $ discontinued



    HCP10233 OEM primary chain tensioner oil delivery pipe O-RING, use 1 per pipe on all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1984-91 XJ600 Euro, 1986-88 FZ600, 1986-90 YX600 Radian, 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II, and 1992-2002 XJ600 Euro engines.
    $ 7.95

    HCP20976 Aftermarket primary chain tensioner oil delivery pipe O-RING,use 1 per pipe on all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1984-91 XJ600 Euro, 1986-88 FZ600, 1986-90 YX600 Radian, 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II, and 1992-2002 XJ600 Euro engines.
    $ 5.95



    HCP3412 OEM primary chain tensioner oil delivery pipe copper CRUSH WASHER. Use 2 per tube on all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1984-91 XJ600 Euro, 1986-88 FZ600, 1986-90 YX600 Radian, 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II, and 1992-2002 XJ600 Euro engines. Each:
    $ 2.95

    HCP21341 Aftermarket primary chain tensioner oil delivery pipe copper CRUSH WASHER . Use 2 per tube on all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1984-91 XJ600 Euro, 1986-88 FZ600, 1986-90 YX600 Radian, 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II, and 1992-2002 XJ600 Euro engines. Each:
    $ 2.95



    HCP10232 OEM starter chain and guide OIL SPRAY NOZZLE, use 1 per engine, fits all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F models. O-ring is not included and should be ordered separate.
    $ 79.95

    HCP26174 Aftermarket starter chain and guide OIL SPRAY NOZZLE, use 1 per engine, fits all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F models. O-ring is not included and should be ordered separate.
    $ 39.95


    HCP10233 OEM starter chain and guide oil spray nozzle O-RING, use 1 per engine an all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines.
    $ 7.95

    HCP20976 Aftermarket starter chain and guide oil spray nozzle O-RING, use 1 per engine an all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines.
    $ 5.95
     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2023
  2. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    ENGINE TOOLS:

    NOTE: SOME OF THE FOLLOWING TOOLS ARE AVAILABLE FOR RENTAL!!: some tools are a one-time or infrequent use tool, so it may be more economical for you to rent them from us, rather than to purchase outright. Please see the “rental” section within the THE TOOLBOX section of our catalog at:

    http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-p-the-toolbox.44630

    and review the availability and procedures in the TOOL RENTAL section.



    Stud Extraction and Installation Tools:

    it54) Aftermarket broken stud EXTRACTOR TOOL KIT. Common problem: you snap or shear off the head of a fastener, now what do you do? Prevent these situations from happening to you by using one of our anti-seize products when installing new bolts or studs!


    HCP10302 Aftermarket 6mm BROKEN STUD EXTRACTOR......this is the correct size for both the exhaust headpipe studs and the intake manifold bolts in the cylinder head, which are the most common fasteners that you'll need to use these extractor tools on. You simply pound this extractor onto the stud, and then use an open-end wrench to twist it out. As long as you have a bit of the broken stud remaining outside of the cylinder head threaded hole (in other words, the fastener has not broken off "flush"), then this tool is what's going to save your day. Similar in concept to a "ez-out", but these tools have their "biting" surfaces on the inside of a socket-type housing, so that the hardened steel ridges bite into the stud and allow you to extract it. Also works great on screw or bolt heads that have had the drive slot ruined or the bolt head rounded off.
    $ 79.95


    HCP26979 Aftermarket complete STUD EXTRACTOR and INSTALLATION TOOLS SET. Complete set of 3 different size tools, these are an upgraded version of the “two locking nuts” method of stud extraction or installation, and their small size allows them to work easily in cramped spaces. Note that this type of tool requires that you have decent threads on the end of the stud:

    www.youtube.com/watch?v=NNH7u87dhng

    This set has the proper sized tools to install and remove exhaust manifold studs, cylinder head and cylinder jug studs, the long cylinder head-to-crankcase studs (all models except XJ700-X and XJ750-X engines), broken intake manifold bolts and many other threaded studs (or headless bolts) on the engine and drivetrain. Contains one each M6 x 1.00 pitch, M8 x 1.25 pitch, and a M10 x 1.25 pitch tool.
    $ 37.95


    HCP10301 Aftermarket complete STUD EXTRACTOR TOOLS SET. Complete set of 4 different size extractors, and these can be used with ratchet wrenches for ease of removal. These are “roller clutch” type removers that use internally locking rollers to grip and turn the stud. This type tool will damage the threads as part of the removal process, and although it’s possible to use them on broken threads (the smooth shank portion of the stud, even if that is all that is present i.e. the stud or bolt has snapped off and all that remains is the unthreaded portion), they don’t always work all that well on smooth surfaces…..but this also means that the can also be used on dowel pins and some guide collars. Note that these stud removers are much larger is physical size that the HCP26979 tools, which may present problems in restricted areas:

    www.youtube.com/watch?v=aE5VnScjRcI

    This set has the proper sized tools to remove exhaust manifold studs, broken intake manifold bolts, cylinder head and cylinder jug studs, the long cylinder head-to-crankcase studs (all models except XJ700-X and XJ750-X engines), and most other threaded studs (or headless bolts) on the engine and drivetrain. Contains one each of a 6mm and 8mm extractors (which can be used with 3/8" drive ratchets) and one each of a 10mm and 12mm extractors (which can be used with 1/2" drive ratchets). You simply pound the extractor onto the stud, and then use an appropriate sized ratchet wrench to twist it out. Comes in a molded storage case.
    $ 89.95



    Removing broken bolts and studs with the power of electricity:




    Or, you can put the power of chemistry to work for you:

    https://tap-die.com/contents/en-uk/d296_Tip_Remove_Broken_Tap_Drill_Reamer_Tap_and_Die_Co.html

    Alum powder, get it at your local supermarket:

    https://www.walmart.com/ip/McCormick-Alum-1-9-oz/10535117



    Thread Chaser Taps:

    NOTE: THE FOLLOWING TOOL KITS ARE AVAILABLE FOR RENTAL!!: some tools are a one-time or infrequent use tool, so it may be more economical for you to rent them from us, rather than to purchase outright. Please see the “rental” section within the THE TOOLBOX section of our catalog at:

    http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-p-the-toolbox.44630

    and review the availability and procedures in the TOOL RENTAL section

    HCP28122 Aftermarket engine components THREAD CHASER TAPS SET. This complete set of 3 taps contains all of the different sizes of threads found on all XJ550, FJ600, FZ600, YX600, and XJ600 engines. Almost all threaded have will exhibit some type of thread wear (distortion) or minor injury that should be repaired. Running thread taps thru all of the threaded holes in the will not only make the re-assembly process easier, smoother, and more secure, but there is a certain satisfaction and surety that comes with having like-new threads that can only be described as “machinist porn” (those of you that know, will know what I mean!). Correct size taps will do the engine case cover holes, valvecover bolt holes, cam bearing caps holes, tach drive housing holes in head, cam chain tensioner holes in jugs, exhaust port stud holes in head, intake manifold holes in head, cam chain tunnel stud holes, crankcase cinching bolt holes, cylinder head stud holes (in upper crankcase), spark plug holes in the head, and many others, Comes with a can of cutting fluid and a t-handle tap holder tool. NOTE: due to the expense of this kit, and the reality that you will use these only once, it is suggested that you use the tool rental option for this tap set. However, under the rental option, if you use the taps for actual thread tapping (cutting brand new threads in a newly drilled hole), then the return option is not allowed!
    $ 59.95

    HCP28123 Aftermarket engine components THREAD CHASER TAPS SET. This complete set of 4 taps contains all of the different sizes of threads found on all water-cooled XJ700-X, XJ750-X, 1987 FZ700, 1986-87 FZX700 Fazer, 1985-86 and 1988 FZ750, 1987 FZR750R, and 1987-88 FZR1000 engines. Almost all threaded have will exhibit some type of thread wear (distortion) or minor injury that should be repaired. Running thread taps thru all of the threaded holes in the will not only make the re-assembly process easier, smoother, and more secure, but there is a certain satisfaction and surety that comes with having like-new threads that can only be described as “machinist porn” (those of you that know, will know what I mean!). Correct size taps will do the engine case cover holes, valvecover bolt holes, cam bearing caps holes, tach drive housing holes in head, cam chain tensioner holes in jugs, exhaust port stud holes in head, intake manifold holes in head, cam chain tunnel stud holes, crankcase cinching bolt holes, cylinder head stud holes (in upper crankcase), spark plug holes in the head, and many others, Comes with a can of cutting fluid and a t-handle tap holder tool. NOTE: due to the expense of this kit, and the reality that you will use these only once, it is suggested that you use the tool rental option for this tap set. However, under the rental option, if you use the taps for actual thread tapping (cutting brand new threads in a newly drilled hole), then the return option is not allowed!
    $ 79.95

    HCP28124 Aftermarket engine components THREAD CHASER TAPS SET. This complete set of 3 taps contains all of the different sizes of threads found on all XJ650, XJ700 air-cooled, XJ750 air-cooled, XJ900, XJ1100, and XS1100 engines. Almost all threaded have will exhibit some type of thread wear (distortion) or minor injury that should be repaired. Running thread taps thru all of the threaded holes in the will not only make the re-assembly process easier, smoother, and more secure, but there is a certain satisfaction and surety that comes with having like-new threads that can only be described as “machinist porn” (those of you that know, will know what I mean!). Correct size taps will do the engine case cover holes, valvecover bolt holes, cam bearing caps holes, tach drive housing holes in head, cam chain tensioner holes in jugs, exhaust port stud holes in head, intake manifold holes in head, cam chain tunnel stud holes, crankcase cinching bolt holes, cylinder head stud holes (in upper crankcase), middle drive gear output flange holes, spark plug holes in the head, and many others. Comes with a can of cutting fluid and a t-handle tap holder tool. NOTE: due to the expense of this kit, and the reality that you will use these only once, it is suggested that you use the tool rental option for this tap set. However, under the rental option, if you use the taps for actual thread tapping (cutting brand new threads in a newly drilled hole), then the return option is not allowed!
    $ 74.95



    Thread Chaser Taps:

    HCP2399 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For the following threaded holes listed below, as well as many other areas of the bike. This 6 x 1.00 pitch is a very common sized thread.
    $ 9.95

    - Hitachi HSC32 air compensator jet holes.
    - Hitachi lower carb rack mount screw holes.
    - Hitachi pilot and main air jets port holes (in carb throat, below vacuum piston).
    - Hitachi carb bowl drain screw hole.
    - Mikuni XJ550, FJ/FZ/YX600, XJ600 Seca Ii, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, XJ900, XJ1100, and XS1100 lower carb rack bracket screw holes.
    - All models: gas tank mounting holes for the petcock.
    - All models: gas tank fuel sending unit mounting holes.
    - All XJ550 - XJ900 models cylinder head exhaust port stud holes.
    - All XJ550 - XJ1100 models cylinder head valvecover mounting bolt holes.
    - All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head cam bearing cap bolt holes.
    - All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head intake manifold bolt holes.
    - All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head valvecover mounting bolt holes.
    - All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine side covers mounting bolt holes.
    - All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine oil pan mounting bolt holes.
    - All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine upper-to-lower crankcase cinch bolt holes (note: some of the mounting holes are different size, and require the use of the larger HCP11028 tap below).
    - XJ700-X and XJ750-X cylinder heads and jugs coolant jacket bolt holes.
    - Some models: cylinder head cam chain tunnel-to-cylinder jugs cinching studs, for engines that have 2 studs on both the front and rear of the tunnel (models with a single tunnel stud use the HCP11028 tap listed further below).
    - Most models: upper crankcase to cylinder jugs stud.
    - All models: cam chain tensioner mounting bolt holes.
    - Some models: mechanical tachometer drive housing mounting hole.




    HCP11028 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For the following threaded holes listed below, as well as many other areas of the bike. This m8 x 1.25 pitch is a very common sized thread.
    $ 9.95

    - XJ550, FJ600, XJ600, FZ600, and YX600 Radian cylinder head long studs (in the upper crankcase) mounting holes.
    - XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head exhaust port stud holes.
    - All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine upper-to-lower crankcase cinch bolt holes (note: some of the mounting holes are a different size, and require the use of the smaller HCP2399 tap above).
    - XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head exhaust port stud holes.
    - exhaust collector input (from header pipe) pinch clamp (on models using the HCP2181, HCP3925, HCP3927, or HCP3928 sized bolts).
    - exhaust collector output pinch clamp (for muffler) for models used the HCP3925 or HCP4623 size bolts.
    - XJ650 Turbo models, for the exhaust collector stud holes in the turbo housing.
    - XJ650 Turbo models, for the threaded stud holes in the turbo housing exhaust port (for mounting of the left muffler to the turbocharger).
    - XJ650 Turbo models, for the bolt hole in the turbo housing exhaust port (for mounting of the left muffler to the turbocharger).
    - XJ650 Turbo models, for the bolt holes in the turbo housing exhaust port (for mounting of the vacuum actuator “can” to the turbocharger).
    - exhaust collector rear mounting bracket holes (in frame) on all models used a cast-iron exhaust collector.




    HCP26760 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For the following threaded holes listed below, as well as other areas of the bike. This m10 x 1.25 pitch is used on a few other places on the bike.
    $ 14.95

    - XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, XJ900, XJ1100, and all XS1100 models cylinder head long studs (in the upper crankcase) mounting holes.
    - all XJ models left side mirror stalk receiver.
    - exhaust collector rear mounting bracket bolt threaded collar (the single bolt that passes thru the flange on the collector) on all models used a cast-iron exhaust collector.
    - all XJ1100 and XS1100 models exhaust hanger bolt holes.
    - threaded holes for any fasteners associated with the following part numbers: HCP2250, HCP3929, HCP3930, HCP3931, HCP3936, HCP3937, HCP3938, HCP4049, HCP19940, and HCP21872.




    HCP28120 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For the following holes:

    - XJ700-X, XJ750-X, 1987 FZ700, 1986-87 FZX700 Fazer, 1985-86 and 1988 FZ750, 1987 FZR750R, and 1987-88 FZR1000 cylinder head long studs (in the upper crankcase) mounting holes.
    $ 11.95



    HCP28131 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed uncoated steel. For the following holes:

    - 12mm spark plug holes on all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, and 1986-90 YX600, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, 1987 FZ700, 1986-87 FZX700 Fazer, 1985-86 and 1988 FZ750, 1987 FZR750R, and 1987-88 FZR1000 engines. This deep-reach tap has a socket-drive head for constricted-space clearance, and will allow access to the plug hole even in the recessed XJ700-X / XJ750-X heads.
    $ 27.95



    HCP6378 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed uncoated steel. For the following holes:

    - 14mm spark plug holes on all XJ650, XJ700 air-cooled heads, all XJ750 air-cooled heads, XJ900, XJ1100, and all XS1100 engines. For use by hand or with a 13/16" socket. Each:
    $ 16.95




    HCP28170 Aftermarket thread tap or EZ-out extractor TAP HANDLE, featuring offset tap handles and fully adjustable head for all m3-m12 size taps and size 0 to ½” extractors. This is the proper way to hold a tap or extractor to insure that the force is directed straight down and doesn’t “wobble” as you are cutting, reaming, or extracting. Much better than using pliers or vise-grips to hold the tool……..
    $ 17.95



    NOTE: always use a proper thread-cutting oil or lubricant before using thread taps! Thin motor oils work fine when merely doing a "clean-up" thread chase; a real cutting fluid should be obtained if a new threads actually needs to be cut:

    HCP2402 Aftermarket machinist-grade professional THREAD CUTTING FLUID, for use when cutting into aluminum or other soft metal. 4-ounce non-aerosol can.
    $ 8.95

    HCP2403 Aftermarket machinist-grade professional THREAD CUTTING FLUID, for use when cutting into steel or other ferrous metals. 4-ounce non-aerosol can.
    $ 8.95



    c9a) THREAD CHASER DIES. Unlike the thread taps listed above, these thread DIES are used to clean, restore, and repair threads on the threaded fasteners (screws, bolts, studs, etc.). These tools help restore that like-new feel to used bolts, and straighten and restore threads to allow for proper torque settings to be achieved and maintained. Unlike standard round dies, these dies feature cutting teeth within a standard “hex-nut” shape, so you can use a wrench or socket to hold the die and turn it over the fastener. Just like cleaning / chasing threaded holes with a tap, this task is easy to use, important to do, and when you’re done you’ll be glad you took the time to do the job properly! NOTE: these dies are not used to cut new threads (you need to use a “real” die for that purpose), and only to renew threads on non-hardened fasteners! Always lubricate the tool (or fastener) with a light oil or grease when using.


    HCP28566 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m3 x 0.50 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; although nor a common size fastener--- it’s tiny! --- there are more applications than what is listed below). Each:
    $ 6.95

    - Hitachi and Mikuni butterfly shaft retaining screws.
    - all models petcock faceplate screws.
    - all models many control switch internal screws



    HCP28567 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m4 x 0.70 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; although nor a common size fastener, there are more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
    $ 6.95

    - Hitachi carb hat screws
    - 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II carb hat screws
    - All models: lower fork tube drain screws



    HCP28568 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m5 x 0.80 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; this is a somewhat common size fastener and there are many more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
    $ 6.95

    - Mikuni carb hat screws (except 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II models)
    - Hitachi and Mikuni carb upper rack bracket screws
    - Mikuni lower rack bracket screws (1992-98 XJ600 Seca II models)
    - Hitachi and Mikuni carb bowl mounting screws



    HCP28260 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m6 x 1.00 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; this is a very common size fastener and there are many more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
    $ 6.95

    - Hitachi lower carb rack mount screws.
    - Hitachi carb bowl drain screw.
    - All models: gas tank mounting screws for the petcock.
    - All models: gas tank fuel sending unit mounting bolts.
    - Mikuni XJ550, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, and XJ1100 lower carb rack bracket screws.
    - All XJ550 - XJ1100 models cylinder head valvecover mounting bolts.
    - All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head cam bearing cap bolts.
    - All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head intake manifold bolts.
    - All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head valvecover mounting bolts.
    - All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine side covers mounting bolts.
    - All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine oil pan mounting bolts.
    - All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine upper-to-lower crankcase cinch bolt holes (note: some of the mounting bolts are different size, and require the use of the larger HCP28261 die below).
    - XJ700-X and XJ750-X cylinder heads and jugs coolant jacket bolts.
    - Some models: cylinder head cam chain tunnel-to-cylinder jugs cinching studs, for engines that have 2 studs on both the front and rear of the tunnel (models with a single tunnel stud use the HCP28261 die listed below).
    - Most models: upper crankcase to cylinder jugs stud.
    - All models: cam chain tensioner mounting bolts.
    - Some models: mechanical tachometer drive housing mounting bolt or stud.
    - All XJ550 - XJ900 models cylinder head exhaust port studs.
    - exhaust headpipe gas test port bolt fitted into the bottom of each header pipe.
    - exhaust collector input (from header pipe) pinch clamp bolt (on models using the HCP2182 sized bolt).
    - collector chrome cover retaining bolt (XJ1100 models)
    - collector chrome cover rear retaining screw bolt (XJ1100 models)
    - XJ650 Turbo models, for the right muffler “joiner pipe” mounting bolts.
    - For any fasteners associated with the following fastener part number: HCP2182, HCP2264, HCP3572, HCP3926, HCP3933, HCP3935, HCP7107, HCP8351, and HCP8480.




    HCP28261 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m8 x 1.25 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; this is a very common size fastener and there are many more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
    $ 6.95

    - XJ550, FJ600, XJ600, FZ600, and YX600 Radian cylinder head long studs (in the upper crankcase).
    - All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine upper-to-lower crankcase cinch bolts (note: some of the mounting holes are a different size, and require the use of the smaller HCP28260 die above).
    - Some models: cylinder head cam chain tunnel-to-cylinder jugs cinching studs, for engines that have a single stud on both the front and rear of the tunnel (models with dual tunnel studs use the HCP28260 die listed above).
    - Some models: cylinder head-to-cylinder jugs cinching studs, at the rear of the head (note these are not the cam chain tunnel studs.
    - All shaft-drive models: middle gear output flange-to-crankcase bolts.
    - XJ1100 and XS1100 models: middle gear drive housing-to-crankcase mounting bolts.
    - XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head exhaust port studs.
    - exhaust collector input (from header pipe) pinch clamp cinch bolt (on models using the HCP2181, HCP3925, HCP3927, or HCP3928 sized bolts).
    - exhaust collector output pinch clamp cinch bolt (for muffler) for models used the HCP3925 or HCP4623 size bolts.
    - XJ650 Turbo models, for the exhaust collector stud in the turbo housing.
    - XJ650 Turbo models, for the threaded studs in the turbo housing exhaust port (for mounting of the left muffler to the turbocharger).
    - XJ650 Turbo models, for the bolt used into the turbo housing exhaust port (for mounting of the left muffler to the turbocharger).
    - XJ650 Turbo models, for the bolts used (for mounting of the vacuum actuator “can” to the turbocharger.
    - exhaust collector rear mounting bracket bolts (which thread into the frame) on all models used a cast-iron exhaust collector.
    - For any fasteners associated with the following part numbers: HCP2181, HCP2942, HCP3925, HCP3927, HCP3928, HCP3934, HCP3939, HCP4208, HCP4623, HCP4956, HCP6156, HCP16101, and HCP16244.





    HCP28575 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m9 x 1.25 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; although not a common size fastener there are more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
    $ 8.95

    - XJ700 water-cooled and XJ750 water-cooled engines, cylinder head-to-upper crankcase long studs



    HCP28577 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m10 x 1.25 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; although not a common size fastener there are more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
    $ 8.95

    - XJ650, XJ700 air-cooled, XJ750 air-cooled, XJ900, XJ1100, and all XS1100 engines, cylinder head-to-upper crankcase long studs.
    - all XJ models left side mirror stem.
    - Many models: front engine mounting bolts
    - exhaust collector rear mounting bracket bolt (the single bolt that passes thru the flange on the collector) on all models used a cast-iron exhaust collector.
    - all XJ1100 and XS1100 models exhaust hanger bolts.
    - For any fasteners associated with the following part numbers: HCP2250, HCP3929, HCP3930, HCP3931, HCP3936, HCP3937, HCP3938, HCP4049, HCP19940, and HCP21872.




    HCP28262 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m10 x 1.50 pitch fasteners. This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
    $ 5.95



    HCP28579 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m12 x 1.25 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; although not a common size fastener there are more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
    $ 8.95

    - Many models: rear engine mounting bolts


    HCP28263 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m12 x 1.50 pitch fasteners. This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
    $ 5.95

    HCP28264 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m12 x 1.75 pitch fasteners. This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
    $ 5.95


    HCP28580 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m14 x 1.50 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; although not a common size fastener there are more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
    $ 25.95

    - All models front and rear axle shafts (except XJ1100 and XS1100 rear axle shaft)



    HCP28581 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m17 x 1.50 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; although not a common size fastener there are more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
    $ discontinued

    - XJ1100 and all XS1100 rear axle shaft



    HCP28582 Aftermarket SMALL THREAD CHASER DIES SET, contains one each of the most commonly used smaller sizes: HCP28567 (m4 x .70 pitch), HCP28568 ( m5 x .80 pitch), and the HCP28260 (m6 x 1.00 pitch) chaser dies.
    $ 21.95

    HCP28583 Aftermarket LARGE THREAD CHASER DIES SET, contains one each of the most commonly used smaller sizes: HCP28261 (m8 x 1.25 pitch), HCP28577 ( m10 x 1.25 pitch), and the HCP28579 (m12 x 1.25 pitch) chaser dies.
    $ 23.95

    HCP28585 Aftermarket COMPLETE THREAD CHASER DIES SET, contains all of the most commonly used sizes: one each of HCP28567 (m4 x .70 pitch), HCP28568 ( m5 x .80 pitch), and the HCP28260 (m6 x 1.00 pitch), HCP28261 (m8 x 1.25 pitch), HCP28577 ( m10 x 1.25 pitch), and the HCP28579 (m12 x 1.25 pitch) chaser dies. Note that XJ700-X or XJ750-X owners may also need to order the HCP28575 tap (m9 x 1.25 pitch) die separate in order to have a “complete” due set for those engines, as it is not included in this set.
    $ 37.95




    PRESSURE TESTING GAUGES:

    Cylinder Compression Testers:

    Yamaha recommends that you perform a compression test every 5,000 miles or so, and that you should record the readings, per cylinder, for future comparison and evaluation. The acceptable readings (specified at sea level) are as follows:

    To do a compression test properly, you should first make sure all of your engine valves are properly adjusted to their recommended clearances, as valves that are too "tight" (not enough clearance) will allow the intake or exhaust valve to be open more than is necessary, or at the wrong time within the compression stroke cycle, thus bleeding off compression that would otherwise be developed.

    http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/compression-test-xj650.113151

    Do not use thread adapters or the like on your pressure gauge, as the added volume of air space within the adapter will reduce the indicated pressure readings.

    a) make sure the engine is warm (at operating temperature).

    b) remove all spark plugs, and then stick the plugs back into their caps and make sure the plugs are grounded to the cylinder head (or even better, disconnect your TCI unit).

    c) remove the airbox filter lid and the air filter.

    d) make sure the battery is FULLY charged, and remains so throughout the course of these tests! It is actually recommended that for purposes of compression testing that the TCI be un-plugged and jumper cables to a large capacity battery (i.e. car battery) be used to make sure that the cranking speed remains pretty constant between each reading. Slow or sluggish cranking speeds will reduce the indicated compression pressure. Yamaha specifies their compression pressures at 300 rpms (which is why the battery needs to be in good shape).

    e) open the throttle FULLY and keep it open during testing.

    f) crank the engine over until the needle stops advancing.

    g) Let the starter cool down for a minute or so, then do the next cylinder, etc..

    h) If the readings are below spec, then shoot about a teaspoon of motor oil into each cylinder, turn the engine over a few revolutions by hand or with the starter (to spread the oil around), and then re-test each cylinder using the above procedure.

    i) compare the two results and analyze.

    j) keep all of your figures, and note the date and mileage from your odometer, so you can compare the next time you take readings (every 5,000 miles or so).


    The specified compression pressures should be:

    XJ550 engines:
    Minimum: 100 psi
    Standard: 121 psi
    Maximum: 135 psi
    Max. variance between lowest and highest: 14 psi


    FJ600 engines:
    Minimum: 142 psi
    Standard: 156 psi
    Maximum: 164 psi
    Max. variance between lowest and highest: 14 psi


    XJ600 Seca II engines:
    Minimum: 145 psi
    Standard: 160 psi
    Maximum: 167 psi
    Max. variance between lowest and highest: 14 psi


    XJ650 and XJ750 air-cooled engines:
    Minimum: 128 psi
    Standard: 156 psi
    Maximum: 171 psi
    Max. variance between lowest and highest: 14 psi


    XJ700 non-X (air-cooled) engines:
    Minimum: 128 psi
    Standard: 156 psi
    Maximum: 171 psi
    Max. variance between lowest and highest: 14 psi


    XJ700-X and XJ750-X (water cooled) engines:
    Minimum: 154 psi
    Standard: 159 psi
    Maximum: 165 psi
    Max range allowable between highest and lowest readings: 14 psi


    XJ900 engines:
    Minimum: 114 psi
    Standard: 142 psi
    Maximum: 171 psi
    Max. variance between lowest and highest: 14 psi


    XJ1100 engines:
    Minimum: 128 psi
    Standard: 142 psi
    Maximum: 156 psi
    Max. variance between lowest and highest: 14 psi


    NOTE: for readings taken at locations that are above sea level (ASL), the following correction factors should be applied to the readings that your gauge obtains:

    - 500' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.013 to get a "true" compression reading.
    - 1000' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.029 to get a "true" compression reading.
    - 1500' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.042 to get a "true" compression reading.
    - 2000' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.060 to get a "true" compression reading.
    - 2500' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.072 to get a "true" compression reading.
    - 3000' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.093 to get a "true" compression reading.
    - 3500' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.103 to get a "true" compression reading.
    - 4000' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.126 to get a "true" compression reading.
    - 4500' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.136 to get a "true" compression reading.
    - 5000' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.160 to get a "true" compression reading.
    - 5500' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.172 to get a "true" compression reading.
    - 6000' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.196 to get a "true" compression reading.
    - 7000' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.233 to get a "true" compression reading.
    - 8000' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.272 to get a "true" compression reading.


    Also, be aware that barometric pressure differences (during testing events separated by more than just a few hours) will cause changes in indicated compression readings. Atmospheric pressure can vary significantly over time at the same altitude, due to weather systems….you hear this on weather reports, where the forecaster is talking about “High” and “Low” pressure systems. Basically, higher atmospheric pressures translate into higher indicated compression pressures. Although it is rarely of major consequence, in order to be "dead-nuts" accurate you should also record your local barometric pressure at the time of each test. If you measured compression on a day when it was 1030mbar and observed 150psi, and then took a measurement later in the week/month/etc. when the ambient air pressure was only 990mbar, that’s an environmental air pressure difference of about 4%, and assuming nothing else had changed you would then read a 4% less compression pressure of only 144psi......i.e. lower ambient air pressure results in lower compression pressures in your engine.


    But don’t overlook the fact that the individual test gauge being used is probably the greatest variable. Some compression gauges are just not very accurate to begin with (basically, and within reason --- and just like with most tools --- the more it costs, the more accurate it will tend to be). Also, try to keep the hose on the gauge you are using as short as possible….the space inside the hose adds to the volume of the cylinder, as lowers the compression ratio a bit, and thus reduces compression pressures.

    And in case you are interested, here are the standard compression ratios for the various engines:

    XJ550: 9.5-to-1
    FJ600: 10.0-to-1
    XJ600 Seca II: 10.0-to-1
    XJ650 (except Turbo): 9.2-to-1
    XJ650 Turbo: 8.2-to-1
    XJ700 air-cooled: 9.5-t-1
    XJ700-X and XJ750-X water: 11.2-to-1
    XJ750 air: 9.2-to-1
    XJ900: 9.6-to-1
    XJ1100: 9.0-to-1
    XS1100 9.2-to-1

    Note that the XJ650 Turbo engine has a much lower static CR than all other engines……logically so, since it has a device (the turbocharger!) that raises the atmospheric pressure of the incoming air charge. Also of note is the rather “sky-high” CR of the multi-valve Genesis engines in the water-cooled “X” engines, which is also one of the keys to their vastly increased power output.



    Now Analyze This!:

    1) If one or all of your cylinders are too low in pressure, it means that:

    a) you did the compression test incorrectly

    b) the tester gauge is inaccurate, or was not used properly.

    c) your engine has piston ring, piston wall, or valve leakage problems.

    d) you valve clearances are too tight, and should be adjusted, or the cams are out of time, or aftermarket camshafts have been fitted that have altered the camshaft timing.

    e) if a cylinder or cylinders have NO compression at all, that typically means your piston has been catastrophically damaged (i.e. a hole in the piston crown, broken piston, etc.)

    f) if a cylinder or cylinders have good compression that rapidly "leaks away" (best determined by the use of a Leakdown Tester gauge as listed further below), this points to burned or otherwise problematic valves.

    In order to further analyze a low-compression condition, you should squirt a small amount of engine oil into the suspect cylinders (about a teaspoon), crank the engine over for a few revolutions to spread the oil about, and then re-test those cylinders. NOTE: if cranking the engine over with the starter motor, you should place a rag or similar over the spark plug opening, or the oil you just introduced into the cylinder may spray out forcefully (into your face, onto your engine, all over the place……….!).

    g) if the compression pressures RISE by a large amount after the infusion of oil, then this typically means that the pistons, piston rings, or cylinder walls are damaged or worn in some way(s). However, be aware that if you introduced a significant amount of oil into a cylinder (1 teaspoon or more) when conducting this test, a small rise in pressure may occur, and it may instead mean that your valves are the problem, since the introduction of that much oil in a small cylinder will naturally cause the compression to rise.

    h) if the compression pressures do NOT rise after the infusion of oil, then this typically means that the valve seats or faces are worn, or a valve is hanging up within its guide, or your valve clearances are way too small (thus keeping a valve open all the time throughout the entire compression stroke).

    i) if two adjacent cylinders (cylinders 1 and 2, or cylinders 3 and 4) have low compression, and the oil treatment produces no greater pressures, this points to a damaged cylinder head gasket, warped head, etc.

    j) it can be very useful to introduce 20-30 psi of compressed air into the cylinder (thru the spark plug hole) to help identify the source of low compression: the escaping air can pinpoint the source of the leak (air hissing out of the intakes or exhaust points to valve problems, while air escaping thru the crankcase breather indicates ring-seal issues).


    Of course, many other situation may cause low cylinder compression, including valves that are out of adjustment (too tight, thus holding a valve slightly open all the time, losing compression), cracked pistons, cylinders, or cylinder heads, but those situations are the not all that common.



    2) If one or all of your cylinders are too HIGH in pressure, it means that:

    a) you piston domes (tops) and/or the cylinder head combustion chamber have a significant accumulation of carbon upon them, which should be cleaned via some type of chemical treatment or engine dis-assembly and manual removal methods. Note that higher cylinder pressures caused by such build-up may be "masking" or hiding other problems that might cause LOW cylinder pressures, such as worn rings, etc.

    b) your engine has been fitted with aftermarket, high-compression pistons, or has had the cylinder head mating surface significantly "shaved".

    NOTE: high cylinder pressures are NOT a good thing, as they tend to blow out head gaskets and can cause accelerated piston, piston ring, or bearing wear.


    You can also test for piston ring and cylinder wall condition by performing a "leak-down" test, which consists of forcing a measured amount of compressed air into a cylinder, and then seeing how long before this air "leaks" out of the combustion chamber and down into the crankcase (past the ring seal):

    http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/Compression-leakdowntest.htm


    NOTE: be aware that some of the ultra low-priced gauges that are typically advertised on eBay, etc. can be quite un-reliable in their readings, and may regularly indicate a false (low) compression reading.


    HCP16268 Aftermarket BASIC COMPRESSION TESTER KIT. This dial-type compression pressure gauge contains everything you'll need to check the "health" of those four holes: a 2-1/2" diameter, 0-300 psi gauge with an integrated pressure release valve, a separate 12" long flex hose, and a 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 18mm plug adapters. Soft storage pouch, instructions, and a compliment of replacement o-rings and core valves are included. This is a good basic kit.
    $ 69.95

    HCP16269 Aftermarket PROFESSIONAL COMPRESSION TESTER KIT......this versatile, affordably-priced, accurate set contains everything you'll need to check the "health" of those four holes: a 2-3/4" gauge head---calibrated in psi, kPa, kg/cm2, and bar scales---with an integral pressure-relieved valve, permanently attached to a 10" hose with a quick-release coupler. A complete variety of 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 18mm adapter fittings and extensions hoses allows for maximum flexibility and ease of use on all types of engines. Comes in a handy plastic storage case, with a user guide, and a field service kit.
    $ 89.95




    Cylinder Leak-down Tester:

    In addition to a compression test gauge, another important means of determining the condition of the pistons/rings/cylinders is via a PRESSURE LEAKDOWN TESTER GAUGE. The standard compression tests can read maximum compression achieved, and that is all well and good; but equally important is whether that maximum compression pressure can be held by the rings and valves. A special "pressurize and hold" leakdown tester is necessary to perform this type of testing, and is great device to have when diagnosing the true condition of an engine's top end.

    HCP17850 Aftermarket PROFESSIONAL PRESSURE LEAKDOWN TESTER KIT......this versatile, affordably-priced, accurate set contains everything you'll need to check the "health" of those four holes: gauge head, regulator valve, permanently and a set of extension hoses with 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm fittings for use on all types of 4-stroke engines. Comes in a handy plastic storage case with a user guide. NOTE: requires the use of an air compressor for use.
    $ 159.95



    Valvetrain Tools:

    NOTE: SOME OF THE FOLLOWING TOOLS ARE AVAILABLE FOR RENTAL!!: some tools are a one-time or infrequent use tool, so it may be more economical for you to rent them from us, rather than to purchase outright. Please see the “rental” section within the THE TOOLBOX section of our catalog at:

    http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-p-the-toolbox.44630

    and review the availability and procedures in the TOOL RENTAL section.


    dd2) Aftermarket camshaft chain BREAKER AND RIVETER TOOLS, needed to properly break and rivet a master link onto the replacement cam chains listed above. NOTE: these tools are quite expensive to purchase for one-time use (especially the riveter tools). You may be able to find a local shop that rents the proper tools for a much more affordable price than purchasing one.

    HCP8607 Aftermarket cam chain BREAKER AND RIVETER TOOL.
    $ 129.95


    HCP26915 Aftermarket camshaft and drive chains CHAIN BREAKER AND RIVETER TOOL SET. A decent quality toolkit for occasional (home) use, it contains a complete set of 3 different size drive tips, a hollow-nose pin rivet tip, chain side plate press tool, alignment bolt and push bolt, handles, and special guide pin adapters, all contained within a durable plastic case. This kit can break cam, oil pump, and drive chains up to the # 630 size, press master link plates on chains up to # 530, and rivet hollow-nosed master link pins on chains up to # 630. It will not perform solid-nosed riveting. NOTE: most chain-drive XJ bikes of this era used size #520 or #530 drive chains (depending on model).
    $ 89.95


    HCP9203 Aftermarket camshaft and drive chains CHAIN BREAKER AND RIVETER TOOL SET, A professional quality tool designed for heavy-duty home or shop use. Contains a complete set of 3 different size drive tips, a hollow-nose pin rivet tip, chain side plate press tool, alignment bolt and push bolt, handles, and special guide pin adapters, all contained within a durable plastic case. This kit can break cam, oil pump, and drive chains up to the # 630 size, press master link plates on chains up to # 530, and rivet hollow-nosed master link pins on chains up to # 630. It will not perform solid-nosed riveting. NOTE: most chain-drive XJ bikes of this era used size #520 or #530 drive chains (depending on model).
    $ 119.95

    HCP9204 Aftermarket 2.2mm TIP for HCP9203 tool kit.
    $ 13.95

    HCP9205 Aftermarket 2.9mm TIP for HCP9203 tool kit.
    $ 13.95

    HCP9206 Aftermarket 3.8mm TIP for HCP9203 tool kit.
    $ 13.95

    HCP9207 Aftermarket WEDGE RIVETING TIP for HCP9203 tool kit.
    $ 13.95




    HCP26935 Aftermarket TDC FINDER tool, for all models with 14mm spark plug threads (all XJ650, XJ700 air-cooled, all XJ750 air-cooled, XJ900RK, RL, F, N, and FN models, XJ1100, and all XS1100 models). To properly align your cams after removal, it is necessary to be able to precisely locate Top Dead Center (TDC) of the # cylinder, and it’s not always possible or advisable to rely on the timing pointer. This simple “sliding rod” TDC finder tool is easy to use, very precise, and affordable. Each:
    $ 13.95




    Valve Cover Pressure Washer Installation Tool:

    HCP17542 Aftermarket valve cover pressure washer INSTALLATION TOOL........a lifesaver little device to make quick and easy work of installing the HCP1621, HCP1622, HCP19931 pressure washers into their bolts, and useful (but not absolutely necessary) on the HCP1620 pressure washers. This tapered brass collar is the proper size to allow the pressure washer to easily slide over its retaining flange or "ring" on bolt, eliminating the grinding ordeal of trying to press or wedge the new washer over that flange (it ain't easy!). See it in action here: https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/thre...-tool-now-with-how-to-pics.40308/#post-351301
    $ 1.95



    Valve Shim Bucket Retaining Tool:

    These reproductions of the original shim BUCKET RETAINER TOOL are required when removing or installing valve shims on air-cooled engines. NOTE: these tools are NOT needed to check the valve shim clearance, it is only necessary if you have determined that a shim needs to be changed and you are going to extract the current in-place shim from its bucket.

    However, we recommend that you purchase the tool before you even begin the entire valve-clearance checking process, as chances are almost 100% that some - most - all of your valve clearances are out of spec, and to determine which replacement shims you'll need, you'll need to have this tool available to extract the currently installed shims (to check their size, and thus make the determination of what replacement sizes you'll need).

    If you "measure clearances" and find that they are out of spec, and only then wait to order this tool, you'll be throwing your efforts behind by a week or so, and you'll be doing twice the amount of work. For the relatively small price of the tool, which you will need (whether now or in the future), it's our recommendation that you have it "at the ready" whenever you go thru the clearance-checking procedure, so you don't have to 2- or 3-step the process.


    HCP247A Aftermarket valve shim BUCKET RETAINER TOOL. For use with all 1982-83 XS400, XJ500, 1982-83 ZX550, XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, 1986-90 YX600 Radian, XJ650, XJ700 air-cooled, XJ750 air-cooled, 1977-79 XS750, 1980-81 XS850, all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines, XJ1100, and XS1100 engines. Each:
    $ 19.95

    Please note that although this tool is patterned off the original Yamaha tool, and will work properly, although it can be somewhat "tricky" to figure out the procedure the first time you use it:

    http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/29209

    and






    HCP22099 Aftermarket valve shim BUCKET RETAINER TOOL. For use with all XJ600 Seca II engines.
    $ 22.95

    HCP28363 Aftermarket valve shim BUCKET RETAINER TOOL. For use with all 1985-07 VMX1200 V-Max, 1983-85 XVZ1200 Venture Royale, and 1983-93 XVZ1300 Venture/Venture Royale engines.
    $ 94.95




    Valve Shim Feeler Gauge Sets:

    v7) Aftermarket valve clearance FEELER GAUGES SETS. These dual offset-blade design with their 90-degree angled ends makes it easy to check the valve clearance on all XJ air-cooled motors. XJ700-X and XJ750-X (water-cooled) engines will require the use of much narrower feeler gauges to check the intake valve clearances on those models.


    Valve Shim Feeler Gauge Sets:

    v7) Aftermarket valve clearance FEELER GAUGES SETS. These dual offset-blade design with their 90-degree angled ends makes it easy to check the valve clearance on all XJ air-cooled motors. XJ700-X and XJ750-X (water-cooled) engines will require the use of much narrower feeler gauges to check the intake valve clearances on those models.


    HCP1593 Aftermarket valve clearance FEELER GAUGES SET, combined .002"/.003" blades.
    $ 11.95

    HCP1594 Aftermarket valve clearance FEELER GAUGES SET, combined .004"/.005" blades.
    $ 11.95

    HCP1595 Aftermarket valve clearance FEELER GAUGES SET, combined .006"/.008" blades.
    $ 11.95

    HCP159345SET---set of all three gauges, 1 each of HCP1593, HCP1594, and HCP1595 gives you all of the most common sizes needed.
    $ 32.95




    We also carry traditional multi-blade feeler gauge sets. Which one should you order? Well, it depends on whether you like your readings to be based in standard-size DECIMAL or METRIC readings (both gauges have the corresponding sizes in their opposite equivalents, but the "round number" readings vary between the two sets). Since these are metric bikes, and the valve shim clearance charts and the shims are denominated in metric, we tend to prefer the metric gauges:


    HCP6383 Aftermarket METRIC FEELER GAUGES SET. These gauges will work on all XJ engines including the XJ700-X and XJ750-X water-cooled models, which require narrower blade-tip feeler gauges to check the intake valve clearances on those models. Aftermarket 32-blade metric set has 95mm long blades, hardened and polished, with the thin, tapered ends needed to access the valves on these models. Marked in both metric and decimal equivalents, as listed below. NOTE: these feeler gauges will fit perfectly, although you will have to rotate the blade 90 degrees to the holder for some of the inner valves on X-models. Each:
    $ 22.95

    Comment: the inclusion of inch measurements AND the inclusion of smaller sizes makes this set ideal for all XJ-bikes and especially for X-models.

    X-engines have valve clearances in a range from .004" - .012" (0.11 mm - .30 mm)

    Metric (millimeter) sizes:
    .03, .04, .05, .06, .07, .08, .09, .10, .13, .15, .18, .20, .23, .25, .28, .30, .33, .38, .40, .45, .50, .55, .60, .63, .65, .70, .75, .80, .85, .90, and 1.00mm

    Decimal (inch) Sizes:
    .001, .0015, .002, .0025, .0028, .003, .0035, .004, .005, .006, .007, .008, .009, .010, .011, .012, .013, .015, .016, .018, .020, .022, .024, .025, .026, .028, .030, .032, .034, .035, and .040.




    HCP3445 Aftermarket DECIMAL FEELER GAUGES SET. These gauges will work on all XJ engines EXCEPT XJ700-X and XJ750-X models, which require thinner feeler gauges to check the intake valves clearances on those models. Complete set of 3-1/4" long straight-blade feeler gauges combines all sizes from .0015" thru .035" (each blade is also marked in its metric equivalents, from .038mm thru .889mm) on a handy storage ring. Sizes on the blades are listed in both decimal and metric dimensions. Includes a 2-1/2" long ruler. Each:
    $ 22.95

    Non-"X" engines have valve clearances in a range from .004" - .008" (0.11 mm - .20 mm)

    Metric (millimeter) sizes:
    .0381, .0508, .0635, .0762, .1016, .1270, .1524, .1778, .2032, .2286, .2540 (steel and brass), .2794, .3048, .3302, .3556, .3810, .4064, .4318, .4572, .4826, .5080, .5334, .5588, .5842, .6096, .6350, .6604, .7112, .7620, .8128, and .8890

    Decimal (inch) Sizes:
    .0015, .002, .0025, .003, .004, .005, .006, .007, .008, .009, .010, 0.011, .012, .013, .014, .015, .016, .017, .018, .019, .020, .021, .022, .023, .024, .025, .026, .028, .030, .032, and .035.



    Valve Clearance Crankshaft Nut Wrench:

    To rotate the engine during valve clearance checks, you'll need the use of a proper sized open-end wrench to engage the special flat-sided nut on the left end of the crankshaft. A box end wrench or socket is not going to work. This is an odd-sized and difficult-to-locate wrench at most hardware or big-box stores.

    HCP9640 Aftermarket OPEN-END WRENCH, 6" forged steel "engineer's wrench" has only one opening, and smooth black finish. Fits all XJ engines.
    $ 19.95



    Valve Face and Seat Reconditioning:

    Typically known “lapping”, this is the most effective means of touching up slightly burned valves and seats, to restore like-new performance at minimum expense, and should be done whenever the head is off for service. And even after a valve grinding, a light lapping may be desirable. Modern valve refacing and reseating methods bring sealing surfaces into nearly full contact. However, slight irregularities, caused by vibration of equipment over a long period, make a lapping step the best way to be certain of a perfect job.

    The proper spinning-while-grinding action, and the periodic lifting of the valve off the seat, is necessary to allow the abrasive compound to reposition itself uniformly on the valve and seat. After a final cleaning of compound from the valve, we recommend a few turns with oil to lift the remaining compound from the pores of the metal and to allow more accurate clearance adjustments. A well-seated valve, guided centrally and given proper clearance, is almost certain to give long service.

    Our valve lapping tools, compounds, and complete kit makes this process easy (well, okay, a little bit “easier”) and will allow you to achieve a professional result.


    HCP23549 Aftermarket valve lapping ABRASIVE PASTE, high quality grease-based 120-grit lapping paste is good for the initial lapping of valves that have a quite a bit of wear. Comes in a 2-ounce tub, more than enough to do an entire head.
    $ 11.95

    HCP23551 Aftermarket valve lapping ABRASIVE PASTE, high quality grease-based 180-grit lapping paste is good for the initial lapping of valves that are in good shape, and as a second step if using the 120-grit paste first. Comes in a 2-ounce tub, more than enough to do an entire head.
    11.95

    HCP23555 Aftermarket valve lapping ABRASIVE PASTE, high quality grease-based 240-grit lapping paste is used to further smooth the surfaces after the use of the 180-grit compound. Comes in a 2-ounce tub, more than enough to do an entire head.
    11.95

    HCP23559 Aftermarket valve lapping ABRASIVE PASTE, high quality grease-based 320-grit lapping paste is used to further smooth the surfaces after the use of the 240-grit compound. Comes in a 2-ounce tub, more than enough to do an entire head.
    11.95

    HCP23561 Aftermarket valve lapping ABRASIVE PASTE, high quality grease-based 400-grit lapping paste is used final polishing to get a beautifully finished valve face and head seat. Comes in a 2-ounce tub, more than enough to do an entire head.
    11.95

    HCP23571 Aftermarket lapping paste APPLICATOR BRUSH, high quality 6” brush allows you to carefully grab and spread small amounts of the paste.
    $ 4.95


    HCP25245 Aftermarket high-spot machinist MARKING PASTE, better known as “Prussian Blue”, this non-drying formula is used to find any high spots on the valve/seat interface, showing whether further lapping is necessary. Comes in a 3/4-ounce squeeze tub, cleans up with mineral spirits, and is more than enough to do an entire head.
    $ 9.95



    HCP23541 Aftermarket valve holder LAPPING STICK, specially-shaped wooden stick with a rubber “suction-cup” on one end that holds the valve securely while performing the back-and-forth lapping action. Pushbutton vacuum-suction system allows the valve to be held firmly, flexes without popping off, spins easily in your hands, and lifts the valve without losing its grip. Comes with 3 different sizes of suction cups to ensure proper fitting to the valve pad. A very nice tool.
    $ 59.95



    HCP23573 Aftermarket VALVE LAPPING KIT, contains everything you’ll need to do a professional job: the HCP23541 lapping stick, one tub of each of the 120, 180, 240, 320, and 400 grit compounds, the applicator brush, a tube of the marking paste, and a set of usage instruction.
    $ 89.95



    Valve Spring Compressors:

    Necessary to properly remove and install valve into the head, these special OEM tools allow you to do this job properly, without distorting or damaging the springs.

    HCP9215 OEM valve SPRING COMPRESSOR TOOL, comes with adapters to allow the use on all XJ550, XJ650, and XJ750 engines.
    $ 189.95

    HCP9240 OEM valve SPRING COMPRESSOR TOOL, comes with adapters to allow the use on all XJ700, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 engines. XJ700-X and XJ750-X owners will also need to order the HCP9241 adapter below.
    $ 189.95

    HCP9241 OEM valve SPRING COMPRESSOR TOOL ADAPTER, for use with the HCP9240 compressor tool listed above, on the XJ700-X and XJ750-X engines.
    $ 79.95



    HCP10181 Aftermarket VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR TOOL SET, comes with 5 different size adapters to allow use on all XJ-series engines, including the Maxim-X type multi-valve engines. NOTE: although this screw-type compressor tool comes with five different-sized retainer disc "adapters", you may find that none of the specific adapter sizes fits your valve spring retainers "perfectly". However, you merely need to select the size adapter that most closely fits the retainer size on your engine (never bigger, always smaller than the O.D. of the retainer disc) and use that adapter carefully (so it does not "slip" or "walk off" the edge of the retainer disc as you are applying pressure, as you DO NOT under any circumstances want it to "walk-over" the edge of the retainer and then scar the lifter bucket bore!).

    Although the OEM sized adapters fit the retainer discs "perfectly" (and therefore do not pose this "walking and potential scarring of the lifter bucket bore" threat), the huge difference in price between the OEM tools listed above and this complete, high-quality compressor tool set makes it worthy of purchasing, as long as you are careful in its use. Our experience shows that the 30mm adapter will fit the retainer discs very well (or exactly on some models) on the 550-1100 engines (except the 700-X and 750-X water-cooled models). The "X" motors will use the 19mm adapter; but it will not fit the retainer perfectly, but is the closest practical size.

    Comes in a handy plastic storage case.
    $ 69.95




    Valve Guide Tools:

    vgt1) Aftermarket valve guide tools are necessary to properly install replacement valve guides into the cylinder head. These reproductions of the original Yamaha specialty tools allow you to do the job properly.


    HCP9234 Aftermarket valve guide REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION DRIVER TOOL, properly sized to remove original pressed-in valve guides without damaging the head, as well as to drive the guide installation tool HCP9232 used to install new guides. For all XJ550 engines.
    $ 47.95

    HCP9232 Aftermarket valve guide INSTALLATION TOOL, necessary to properly install the shoulderless valve guides into the head. Use this tool along with the driver tool HCP9234. For all XJ550 engines.
    $ 47.95

    HCP9231 Aftermarket valve guide REAMER TOOL. When new valve guides are installed, they should be reamed to a proper size and finish to allow the specified valve-to-guide clearance and insure proper lubrication, but no oil suction through the guides. For all XJ550 engines.
    $ 139.95



    HCP9216 Aftermarket valve guide REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION DRIVER TOOL, properly sized to remove original pressed-in valve guides without damaging the head, as well as to drive the guide installation tool HCP9217 used to install new guides. For all XJ650, XJ700 non-X, XJ750, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 engines.
    $ 89.95

    HCP9217 Aftermarket valve guide INSTALLATION TOOL, necessary to properly install the shoulderless valve guides into the head. Use this tool along with the driver tool HCP9216. For all XJ650, XJ700 non-X, XJ750, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 engines.
    $ 44.95

    HCP9218 Aftermarket valve guide REAMER TOOL. When new valve guides are installed, they should be reamed to a proper size and finish to allow the specified valve-to-guide clearance and insure proper lubrication, but no oil suction through the guides. For all XJ650, XJ700 non-X, XJ750, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 engines.
    $ 139.95



    HCP9235 Aftermarket valve guide REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION DRIVER TOOL, properly sized to remove original pressed-in valve guides without damaging the head, as well as to drive the guide installation tool HCP9233 used to install new guides. For all XJ700-X and XJ750-X engines.
    $ 39.95

    HCP9233 Aftermarket valve guide INSTALLATION TOOL, necessary to properly install the shoulderless valve guides into the head. Use this tool along with the driver tool HCP9235. For all XJ700-X and XJ750-X engines.
    $ 37.95

    HCP9230 Aftermarket valve guide REAMER TOOL. When new valve guides are installed, they should be reamed to a proper size and finish to allow the specified valve-to-guide clearance and insure proper lubrication, but no oil suction through the guides. For all XJ700-X and XJ750-X engines.
    $ 99.95



    These medium-grit, flexible HONES are just what’s needed to apply a proper “clean-up” cross-hatch finish to a set of valve guides. Hundreds of balls of round coarse-grit oxide are attached to flexible twisted-wire shafts, which when chucked into a 3/8” or 1/2” chuck standard drill (or drill press) can be used to break the cylinder wall glaze and eliminate any high spots on the cylinder wall, creating a fresh surface finish that allows rings to seat properly, insuring the highest compression and lowest oil migration. These hones will not remove metal (and are not designed to do so). Proper use requires the application of honing oil and precise control of hone rotation and linear (in-and-out) speed of motion. Just a few passes is all that’s needed , and it’s remarkably easy to use ---- its self-centering action allows you to produce a beautiful and professional guide wall finish even for a first-time user!

    NOTE: hones can be attached to a very low speed (less than 100 rpms) drill. ALWAYS KEEP THE HONE MOVING WITHIN THE BORE IF OPERATING WITH A DRILL, AND KEEP THE STONES FULLY LUBRICATED WHEN IN USE!

    The use of these hones will greatly increase the success of your engine rebuild, and should be considered a “must-have” tool if your are not having your guides actually bored and/or refinished by a machine shop.

    HCP23524SET Aftermarket cylinder head VALVE GUIDE HONE, proper size for use on all XJ550 and 1984-85 F600 engines. Includes a bottle of honing oil.
    $ 59.95

    HCP23525SET Aftermarket cylinder head VALVE GUIDE HONE, proper size for use on all XJ650, XJ700 air-cooled, XJ750 air-cooled, XJ900, and XJ1100 engines. Includes a bottle of honing oil.
    $ 59.95

    HCP23522SET Aftermarket cylinder head VALVE GUIDE HONE, proper size for use on all XJ700 water-cooled and XJ750 water-cooled engines. Includes a bottle of honing oil.
    $ 69.95


    HCP22816 Aftermarket valve guide hone HONING OIL, this is the proper lubricant to use with any of the above cylinder hones. 1/2 pint bottle is enough to do multiple engines.
    $ 21.95




    Dowel Pin and Collar Puller Tool Kit:

    HCP27430 Aftermarket engine DOWEL PIN PULLER tool kit………what a great little tool to have on hand. Those dowel pins or collars are everywhere on these engines: cylinder heard-to-jugs, jugs-to-upper crankcase, side covers-to-crankcase, crankcase lower-to-upper section, and I’m probably forgetting a few. After time and moisture do their trick, those pins can get stuck….really stuck. And though vise grips (and penetrating oil, and heat, and a bigger hammer…) might work on some of them, these tools make for a quick, easy, and safe extraction. Special split collects fit snugly down over the protruding section of the pin, and with the torque bar or a slide hammer attachment tool, you’ll easily twist or yank them right out! Includes 5 different size collects, which are the correct size to attack almost every pin or collar on these engines. Each;
    $ 69.95



    Straightedge:

    HCP23533 Surface measuring PRECISION STRAIGHTEDGE. This 18” straightedge is used by professional engine builders / machine shops for measuring any warpage in flat surfaces. We also recommend the purchase of our HCP6383 feeler gauges above to be used with this straightedge. Comes with a usage guide and warp specifications for all XJ cylinder heads. NOTE: although Yamaha does not specify doing so, we also suggest that you measure the mating surface of the cylinder jugs in the same manner as you would with the heads, and apply the same criteria and warpage specifications and remedies to them.
    $ 149.95

    NOTE: the HCP23533 tool above is available for short term rental, please see the “rental” section within the THE TOOLBOX section of our catalog at:

    http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-p-the-toolbox.44630

    and review the availability and procedures in the TOOL RENTAL section.



    Piston and Piston Ring Tools:

    HCP23597 Aftermarket piston base HOLDER TOOL. Flat slotted tool protects the piston skirts from flopping around and getting damaged while removing or installing the cylinder jugs. You'll need to use two (2) per engine. For all XJ-series engines. Each:
    $ 21.95


    HCP9771 Aftermarket piston ring COMPRESSOR TOOL. Wide-band ring compressor tool has a quick-release handle and allows you to prevent damage to the rings when installing the cylinder jugs down over the pistons. You'll need to use two (2) per engine. Fits all XJ-series engines. Each:
    $ discontinued


    NOTE: THE FOLLOWING TOOL IS AVAILABLE FOR RENTAL!!: some tools are a one-time or infrequent use tool, so it may be more economical for you to rent them from us, rather than to purchase outright. Please see the “rental” section within the THE TOOLBOX section of our catalog at:

    http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-p-the-toolbox.44630

    and review the availability and procedures in the TOOL RENTAL section.

    HCP23162 Aftermarket piston ring COMPRESSOR TOOL SET. Special spring-steel compressor “clamps” prevent ring damage during cylinder installation, and are easily removed after the cylinder jugs are in position. Supplied with clamp ring compressor tool and 4 clamping rings (one each of 4 different sizes) which will allow use on all XJ- and XS-series engine sizes. Comes with a storage case. Since the 4-cylinder Yammy motors require placing 2 pistons into the jugs at a time, you will need 2 of these tool kits to accommodate your rebuild. Each tool set:
    $ 32.95




    Cylinder Hones:

    These medium-grit, flexible CYLINDER HONES are just what’s needed to apply a proper “clean-up” cross-hatch finish to a set of cylinders before installation of original or new rings. Hundreds of balls of round coarse-grit oxide are attached to flexible twisted-wire shafts, which when chucked into a 3/8” or 1/2” chuck standard drill (or drill press) can be used to break the cylinder wall glaze and eliminate any high spots on the cylinder wall, creating a fresh surface finish that allows rings to seat properly, insuring the highest compression and lowest oil migration. These hones will not remove metal (and are not designed to do so, nor will they typically remove the top-of-cylinder carbon build-up “ridge”). Proper use requires the application of honing oil and precise control of hone rotation and linear (in-and-out) speed of motion. Just a few passes is all that’s needed , and it’s remarkably easy to use ---- its self-centering action allows you to produce a beautiful and professional cylinder wall finish even for a first-time user!

    NOTE: hones can be attached to a very low speed (less than 100 rpms) drill. ALWAYS KEEP THE HONE MOVING WITHIN THE BORE IF OPERATING WITH A DRILL, AND KEEP THE STONES FULLY LUBRICATED WHEN IN USE!

    The use of these hones will greatly increase the success of your engine rebuild, and should be considered a “must-have” tool if your are not having your cylinders actually bored and/or refinished by a machine shop.

    Each hone includes a sufficient supply of honing oil.


    HCP22811SET Aftermarket engine CYLINDER HONE, proper size for use on all XJ550 engines. Includes a bottle of honing oil.
    $ 79.95

    HCP22812SET Aftermarket engine CYLINDER HONE, proper size for use on all XJ650 engines. Includes a bottle of honing oil.
    $ 89.95

    HCP22813SET Aftermarket engine CYLINDER HONE, proper size for use on all XJ700 air-cooled and XJ750 air-cooled engines. Includes a bottle of honing oil.
    $ 89.95

    HCP22814SET Aftermarket engine CYLINDER HONE, proper size for use on all XJ700 water-cooled, XJ750 water-cooled, and all XJ900 engines. Includes a bottle of honing oil.
    $ 89.95

    HCP22815SET Aftermarket engine CYLINDER HONE, proper size for use on all XJ1100 and XS1100 engines. Includes a bottle of honing oil.
    $ 89.95


    HCP22816 Aftermarket engine cylinder hone HONING OIL, this is the proper lubricant to use with any of the above cylinder hones. 1/2 pint bottle is enough to do multiple engines.
    $ 21.95




    Bearing Clearance Measurement:

    As mentioned, bearing oil clearances are critical for engine longevity. Clearances are measured via the use of a thin, crushable plastic “bead” which is positioned between the bearing and the journal, and which is then crushed when the parts are torqued to proper specifications. The parts are then separated, and the width of the crushed plastic strips are compared against a (included) reference chart. This is a simple, accurate, yet very time-consuming task, but it must be done to insure that you engine assembly is done properly!

    Here's a good video showing how it's done (starting about 1:30 into the video):

    www.youtube.com/watch?v=a5UVtnSbHig


    These measurements should be done for all bearing positions on the crankshaft main journals, the crankshaft rod journals, and all camshaft journals.


    HCP23534 Aftermarket BEARING CLEARANCE MEASUREMENT STRIP, contains a single 12” length of the green plastigauge strip, used to measure clearances between 0.001 - 0.003" (0.025 - 0.076 mm), which covers most (but not all) specified clearances for all XJ550 thru XJ1100 / XS1100 crank, rod, and camshaft bearings. Two strips will be enough to check one engine. Each:
    $ 11.95

    HCP23535 Aftermarket BEARING CLEARANCE MEASUREMENT STRIP, contains a single 12” length of the red plastigauge strip, used to measure clearances between 0.002" - 0.006" (0.051 - 0.152mm), which covers most (but not all) specified clearances for all XJ550 thru XJ1100 / XS1100 crank, rod, and camshaft bearings. Two strips will be enough to check one engine. Each:
    $ 11.95

    HCP23536 Aftermarket BEARING CLEARANCE MEASUREMENT STRIP, contains a single 12” length of the blue plastigauge strip, used to measure clearances between 0.004" to 0.009" (0.102 - 0.229mm). Not typically needed for these engines, as such large clearances are outside of allowable specification for any of these XJ engines. Each:
    $ 11.95

    HCP23537 Aftermarket BEARING CLEARANCE MEASUREMENT STRIP, contains a single 12” length of the yellow plastigauge strip, used to measure clearances between 0.009" to 0.020" (0.229 - 0.250mm). Not typically needed for these engines, as such large clearances are outside of allowable specification for any of these XJ engines. Each:
    $ 11.95

    HCP23589 Aftermarket BEARING CLEARANCE MEASUREMENT KIT, contains an assortment of green (2), red (2), blue (1), and yellow (1) plastigauge strips, enough to measure clearances in a couple of engines. Includes a clearance specification sheet (showing specified clearances for all XJ550 - XJ1100 engines) and instructions for usage.
    $ 29.95



    Cooling System Tools:

    HCP9236 Aftermarket waterpump MECHANICAL SEAL INSTALLER TOOL, nice copy of the original Yamaha specialty tool used on all the XJ700-X and XJ750-X water-cooled models.
    $ 69.95




    GASKET SUPPLIES AND TOOLS:

    Gasket Adhesives and Removers:

    b4) Aftermarket pure SILICONE GREASE----this is the proper product to use when installing any rubber-based o-ring or seal or paper gasket. Silicone doesn't affect rubber, provides good seal lubrication, can also be used as a "glue" to hold gaskets and seals in place during installation, and to aid in the re-assembly of components.

    HCP28407 Aftermarket o-ring, oil seal, and gasket installation pure SILICONE GREASE. This small 5-gram (1/6-oz) snap-open "pillow packet" is enough for a few small oil seals, dozens of o-rings, and the like. Each:
    $ 4.95

    HCP1714 Aftermarket o-ring, oil seal, and gasket installation pure SILICONE GREASE. This generous 14-gram (1/2-oz.) tub goes a long way, because just like Brylcreem, "just a little dab will do ya'!" Each:
    $ 9.95



    HCP3120 Aftermarket black GASKET MAKER, large family-sized 3.8 ounce squeeze tube. Enough to do about five thousand cam end plugs! I'm sure it works well in other applications. This is for use on the half-moon end plugs (HCP1619 for non-YICS applications) and the molded-in end plugs (part of the actual rubber gasket) on YICS engines. Do not use on the paper or rubber valvecover gasket itself! Each:
    $ 12.95

    HCP3120A Aftermarket black GASKET MAKER, 1/2-ounce squeeze tube. Enough to do a few hundred cam end plugs! It's the smallest size offered. I'm sure it works well in other applications. This is for use on the half-moon end plugs (HCP1619 for non-YICS applications) and the molded-in end plugs (part of the actual rubber gasket) on YICS engines. Do not use on the paper or rubber valvecover gasket itself! Each:
    $ 8.95


    HCP25092 Aftermarket high-performance aviation-grade, black, non-hardening GASKET MAKER, 1.5 ounce squeeze tube. This special high-performance sealant is ideal for use on engine case covers as a “problem solver” material which will compensate for poor machining tolerances or the slight warpage that can occur over time on precision-fit pieces. A very thin film of this material is all that is needed! Each:
    $ 13.95



    NOTE: the following product(s) can only be shipped via ground transport (which thus eliminates the postal Priority Mail, postal Express Mail, or private carrier Expedited levels of service for this item) and cannot (and will not----don't even ask!) be shipped outside of the continental USA. Additionally, there may be a per-package weight or quantity restriction, and thus multiple-unit orders of this product may have to be shipped in separate packages and will incur additional shipping charges.

    HCP20861 Aftermarket industrial-strength SILICONE LUBE, in a large 16-ounce aerosol can. Concentrated silicone sprays on wet, and then dries to a super-slick, clear, non-greasy, non-staining finish. Resists moisture, stops squeeks, prevents binding on all types of surfaces (wood, metal, plastic, rubber, even fabrics). Won't wash away, protect against rust and corrosion, stable from -100 degrees up to 500-F. This fluid is also a great choice for use as installation lubricant for o-rings, oil seals, etc. (similar to our HCP1714 or HCP28407 silicone grease paste) or wherever petroleum-based lubricants are not recommended.
    $ 44.95



    HCP9611 Aftermarket engine STANDARD GASKET REMOVER. This highly effective formula makes softens and dissolves gasket materials and adhesives, making for easy and quick gasket removal. Especially useful on cylinder base gaskets and side cover gaskets. NOTE: this formula will remove the clear-coat finish found on many engine parts! 12-ounce spray can. Each:
    $ discontinued

    HCP10492 Aftermarket cylinder head gasket high-performance GASKET SEAL SPRAY. This high copper content, high-temperature aerosol spray helps position and seal gaskets in place. Use to seal cylinder head gaskets, cylinder base gaskets, and even side cover gaskets in position (note: when using on side cover gaskets, apply thin film of spray to the engine-case side of the gasket only, and use 100% silicone lube on the cover side of the gasket. This method will allow you to easily remove the cover in the future, without tearing the gasket). Note that this is not the material to use with valvecover gaskets; for those, use the HCP3120 or HCP25092 material for flat paper gaskets, or HCP17198 for the molded rubber valvecover gaskets. Each:
    $ 17.95

    HCP17198 Aftermarket valvecover gasket HI-TACK ADHESIVE. This fast-drying, high-temperature adhesive helps position and seal the molded rubber valvecover gaskets in place. Comes in a 4-ounce brush-top can Each:
    $ 13.95


    HCP10491 Aftermarket engine case GASKET MAKER. This high-temperature, solvent-based bonding caulk forms a tough, flexible seal on irregular or uneven surfaces, is fuel and oil resistant, and is rated for 350-F degrees. Use to seal the upper and lower crankcase halves together. 2.7 ounce squeeze tube, enough to do one engine (you apply a thin coat, not a big dripping glob!). NOTE: you should review a service manual before applying this material to the engine cases, as there are certain areas (particularly around oil feed holes) that should never have sealer applied near them. See the bottom of page 2:

    http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/transmission-issue.59920/page-2#post-462239

    NOTE: the easiest way to use this product is to squirt a small amount into the bottom corner of a standard baggie, and the snip that bottom corner a tiny bit; in this manner, you can then squeeze a small and precise bead right where you want it. Each:
    $ 13.95



    Gasket Scrapers:

    HCP15410 Aftermarket 3/8" square GASKET SCRAPER, 3" long bar of square tool steel cutting block works as an exceptional gasket removal device when it's held flat and worked back-and-forth against a surface such as a cylinder head, the jugs, crankcase cover opening flanges, etc. Simple, easy to use, long-lasting. Will not work on any surface that requires gasket removal in a "recessed" area. Removes old engine case cover or cylinder head gasket remnants effortlessly.
    $ 9.95

    HCP15434 Aftermarket 3/8" square GASKET SCRAPER, 3" long bar of square cobalt-impregnated, tool steel cutting block works as an exceptional gasket removal device when it's held flat and worked back-and-forth against a surface such as a cylinder head, the jugs, crankcase cover opening flanges, etc. Simple, easy to use, will last a lifetime. Will not work on any surface that requires gasket removal in a "recessed" area. Removes old engine case cover or cylinder head gasket remnants effortlessly.
    $ 11.95



    HCP6377 Aftermarket long-handled GASKET SCRAPER, forged steel with 1" wide blade (can be re-sharpened), 10-1/2" long, comfort-grip handle. Removes old engine case cover or cylinder head gasket remnants effortlessly.
    $ 19.95

    HCP6376 Aftermarket set of long-handled GASKET SCRAPER SET, all are made from a black-coated, heat-treated forged alloy steel with a variety of blade sizes and style (blades can be re-sharpened) to cover all situations. Each set has one each of the HCP6377 10-1/2" long tool, an 8" long offset blade scraper, a 7" long x 5/8" wide blade scraper, and a stubby flat-blade scraper tool.
    $ 79.95



    HCP13101 Aftermarket long-handled BLADE-STYLE GASKET SCRAPER, uses replaceable 1-1/2" wide single-edge disposable blades. 11-1/2" long, comfort-grip handle is also used to store extra blades. Comes with 5 carbon-steel blades and one plastic scraper blade. Order replacement blades HCP13103 below. Great for removing really stuck cylinder head and case gaskets or adhesive precisely and safely.
    $ 23.95

    HCP13103 Aftermarket replacement set of SCRAPER BLADES, set of 5 stainless-steel 1-1/2" wide blades for the HCP13101 scraper tool above.
    $ 5.95


    HCP13102 Aftermarket short-handled BLADE-STYLE GASKET SCRAPER, comes with 6 replaceable, 1-7/8" wide carbon-steel single-edge disposable blades. 6" long, comfort-grip handle is also used to store extra blades. Order replacement blades HCP13104 below. Great for removing really stuck cylinder head and case gaskets or adhesive precisely and safely.
    $ 11.95

    HCP13104 Aftermarket replacement set of SCRAPER BLADES, set of 5 carbon-steel 1-7/8" wide blades for the HCP13102 scraper tool above.
    $ 6.95



    Oil Seal and O-ring Tools:

    u) Aftermarket o-ring and seal PICK TOOL SET. A very handy set of 4 different style o-ring removal - dental-picks, in a variety of pick angles and styles, all in a handy plastic storage pouch. The HCP1411 picks are a high-quality, professional use style that feature individual pick shafts that interchange into a 5" long, knurled, easy-grip handle, and are small enough to fit easily into the tiny idle mixture screw bores and other such passages. The HCP9974 style feature four different individual picks, each secured into their own impact-resistant, sure-grip plastic handle.

    HCP1411 Aftermarket set of four different o-ring and seal PICKS, metal handles.
    $ 24.95

    HCP9974 Aftermarket set of four different o-ring and seal PICKS, plastic handles, good inexpensive set.
    $ 19.95



    js44) Aftermarket dual-tip SEAL PULLER. Our large HCP9801 style puller features curved dual tips on a rounded head allows you to "lever out" large, thick rubber seals safely and properly, while the smaller HCP9961 puller works better with smaller seals (such as on your shifter side cover). These tools are a much better solution than trying to use a screwdriver to pry out seals as they eliminate the risk of scratching or damaging the seal land.

    HCP9801 Aftermarket rubber LARGE SEAL PULLER TOOL.
    $ 21.95

    HCP9961 Aftermarket rubber SMALL SEAL PULLER TOOL.
    $ 17.95




    Anti-Seize Paste:

    xx1) Fastener ANTI-SEIZE PASTE. Yeah, it's smelly and makes a silvery mess on your fingers, but this stuff is a life-saver for any true wrencher, because it prevents problems down the road. Use it on any metal fastener that does not require a "loctite" thread-locker material to be used. This means on just about every fastener that is carb, engine case, or suspension-related! (except for carb upper and lower rack-mount screws and butterfly valve screws, which do require the use of a thread-lock fluid). If you think that it might, sometime, in the future, need to come off: use anti-seize compound! NOTE: the "base" metal material used in the different anti-seize pastes below do not determine what type of fastener to use such pastes on; it merely signifies what base material is used to create the anti-seize paste. You can use any "based" anti-seize paste on any type of fastener and metal.

    NOTE: the use of anti-seize compounds will result in a TORQUE-MULTIPLYING EFFECT……..the result of a reduction in friction between the threaded contact points……and thus fasteners treated with anti-seize compound should have their torque values reduced by at least 10-15% when installed into steel material, and up to 25% into aluminum materials or other “soft” metals” (such as spark plugs into cylinder heads, or almost any other type of fastener into the engine) …… note that this rule applies only to service manual torque specifications on fasteners that are not indicated to be treated with anti-seize fluid by the factory …. if the factory manual specifies the use of an anti-seize coating, then the specified torque value for that fitting already takes into account the “reduced torque” necessary.

    http://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html

    http://www.cncexpo.com/MetricBoltTorqueNm.aspx

    http://www.bmwmotorcycletech.info/sparkplugs.htm

    http://www.antiseize.com/pdf/torque_specifications.pdf


    HCP1264 Aftermarket fastener ANTI-SEIZE PASTE, standard grade aluminum-based in a 1-ounce squeeze tube, for smaller jobs.
    $ 5.95

    HCP1265 Aftermarket fastener ANTI-SEIZE PASTE, standard grade aluminum-based formula in a 4-ounce tub with a brush-lid, for larger jobs.
    $ 7.95

    HCP9784 Aftermarket fastener ANTI-SEIZE PASTE, standard grade aluminum-based formula in an 8-ounce tub with a brush-lid, a lifetime supply for your motorcycle!
    $ 12.95

    HCP9763 Aftermarket fastener ANTI-SEIZE PASTE, standard-grade copper-based formula in an 8-ounce tub with a brush-lid, a lifetime supply for your motorcycle!
    $ 12.95

    HCP9764 Aftermarket fastener ANTI-SEIZE PASTE, premium-grade nickel-based formula in an 8-ounce tub with a brush-lid, a lifetime supply for your motorcycle!
    $ 17.95



    Thread-Locker Fluids:

    xx2) The next most important tool: fastener THREAD LOCKER FLUIDS. Use on any fastener that you don't normally ever remove, to make sure that it stays that way. Comes in a variety of formulas, each one designed for a specific use as explained below.

    HCP1266 Low Strength THREAD LOCKER FLUID, 6ml squeeze tube. This is a semi-permanent formula that provides moderate vibration-loosening resistance, while still allowing for easy disassembly of the fastener with hand tools. This formula is recommended for upper and lower carb rack mount screws and the butterfly valve-to-throttle shaft retaining screws. A little bit goes a long way.......
    $ 11.95


    HCP1267 Semi-Permanent THREAD LOCKER FLUID, 6ml squeeze tube. This is semi-permanent formula that provides good vibration-loosening resistance, while still allowing for easy disassembly of the fastener with hand tools. This formula is recommended for use with 6-20mm fasteners.
    $ 11.95

    HCP27756 Semi-Permanent THREAD LOCKER FLUID, 0.5ml squeeze tube. This is semi-permanent formula that provides good vibration-loosening resistance, while still allowing for easy disassembly of the fastener with hand tools. This formula is recommended for use with 6-20mm fasteners. Small single-use tube is great for, well, small jobs!
    $ 3.95


    HCP1268 Permanent THREAD LOCKER FLUID, 6ml squeeze tube. This is a high-strength formula that provides superior vibration-loosening resistance, and requires the use of heat or special tools to break loose the fastener for disassembly.
    $ 11.95

    HCP1269 Permanent THREAD LOCKER FLUID, 6ml squeeze tube. This is both a high-strength AND high-heat formula that provides superior vibration-loosening resistance, and requires the use of heat or special tools to break loose the fastener for disassembly.
    $ 11.95




    Super-Penetrant Fluids and Lubricants:

    Sometimes, the toughest part of working on a vehicle is battling the effects of time: seized fasteners, caused by rust, corrosion, and other factors, turns what should be a 5-minute effort into a 50-minute (or more) chore, complete with rounded-off, ruined, or snapped fasteners, e-z outs, heli-coil inserts, and more.........and that's just not right.

    While the proper use of our various Anti-Seize products will prevent these nightmares from occurring in the future, you're stuck in the here-and-now, and the best way to handle these obstacles is to have the proper tools at the stand-by; and in the case of fastener seizure, the proper "tool" is a can or two of our SUPER PENETRATING LUBRICANTS at the ready; a couple of squirts, a little bit of time-----perhaps some heat for those really nasty situations----and you're on your way again, hopefully not too much worse for the experience.....

    Great for use on all fasteners, fork tube cap bolts, intake and exhaust manifolds bolts, studs, and nuts, lock cylinder tumblers, or anywhere an un-cooperative fastener can be found. Can even be used to help un-seize frozen engines!

    Be aware that these products are not your typical, garden-variety, run-of-the-mill "retail" type products; these are designed an used as industrial- and military-strength products, meaning they have special formulations that include a dollop more of the "good stuff" within them to solve the toughest seizure problems imaginable (the "good stuff" ingredients cost more, and it is those compounds that are left out of or reduced in concentration in "retail" level consumer products).

    NOTE: the following product(s) can only be shipped via ground transport (which thus eliminates the postal Priority Mail, postal Express Mail, or private carrier Expedited levels of service for this item) and cannot (and will not----don't even ask!) be shipped outside of the continental USA. Additionally, there may be a per-package weight or quantity restriction, and thus multiple-unit orders of this product may have to be shipped in separate packages and will incur additional shipping charges.


    HCP10331 Aftermarket standard-duty PENETRATING LUBRICANT, in a generous 16-ounce aerosol can. Oil-based lubricant penetrates down into spaces of one-millionth of an inch to handle the most reluctant seizures. Actually dissolves the rust and corrosion that causes the seizure; lubricates and displaces moisture to prevent rust re-formation. This product is what we use and recommend for freeing stuck fork tube cap bolts and other such challenging fasteners.
    $ 44.95

    HCP11974 Aftermarket super-duty PENETRATING LUBRICANT, in a generous 13-ounce aerosol can. Same as our standard-duty formula above, but also includes graphite to not only enhance and speed up the penetrant action, but also gets down into the pores of the metal for the greatest possible lubrication possible. The cat's-meow of penetrating fluids, can even be used to un-seize frozen engines or as an engine assembly lube! This fluid is also a great choice for use as a drive cable lubricant.
    $ 46.95

    HCP10333 Aftermarket extreme-duty PENETRATING LUBRICANT, in a generous 16-ounce aerosol can. Same as our standard-duty formula above, but also includes liquid silicone to enhance and speed up the penetrant action. This product is also an exceptional choice for use as a control-cable lubricant.
    $ 47.95



    Assembly Fluids, Greases, and Lubricants:

    gm2) Aftermarket high-temp, high-performance SYNTHETIC GREASES coat, lubricate, insulate, and protect metal bearings, bushings, gears, and other metal-to-metal contact points. Waterproof, high-temp (-40F to + 450F) white synthetic grease is silica thickened and contains a healthy dose of PTFE for friction reduction. Red-moly synthetic greases are also great for wheel bearings, steering neck bearings, swingarm bearings, starter motor gears and the like.


    HCP8574 Aftermarket tube of white PTFE-enhanced SYNTHETIC GREASE, half-ounce tube.
    $ 9.95

    HCP8575 Aftermarket tube of PTFE-enhanced SYNTHETIC GREASE, 3-ounce tube. Same as HCP8574 above, just in a larger size.
    $ 14.95

    HCP8608 Aftermarket gear and bearing synthetic RED MOLY SYNTHETIC GREASE. High temperature, water resistant, extreme pressure and high-load strength synthetic organic moly grease is far superior to black moly disulfide (petroleum-based) products. Use on steering neck bearings, wheel bearings, starter motor gears, and swingarm bearings. 14 oz. tube.
    $ 29.95

    HCP9783 Aftermarket engine assembly WHITE LITHIUM GREASE. High temperature, water resistant, extreme pressure and high-load strength lithium grease is preferred for engine assembly lubrication on bearings, piston rings, gears, and other moving parts. Protects critical parts until the oil gets flowing. 6 oz. squeeze tube is enough to do one engine. Great for middle and final drive gearsets, too.
    $ 11.95



    NOTE: the following product(s) can only be shipped via ground transport (which thus eliminates the postal Priority Mail, postal Express Mail, or private carrier Expedited levels of service for this item) and cannot (and will not----don't even ask!) be shipped outside of the continental USA. Additionally, there may be a per-package weight or quantity restriction, and thus multiple-unit orders of this product may have to be shipped in separate packages and will incur additional shipping charges.


    HCP20860 Aftermarket industrial-strength ASSEMBLY LUBE, in a standard 12-ounce aerosol can. Heavy-duty formula includes graphite to not only enhance and speed up the penetrant action, but also gets down into the pores of the metal for the greatest possible lubrication possible. Won't wash away, protect against rust and corrosion, stable from 0-degrees up to 250-F. This fluid is also a great choice for use as a drive cable lubricant.
    $ 41.95

    HCP20862 Aftermarket super-duty ASSEMBLY LUBE, in a generous 10-ounce aerosol can. The cat's-meow of lubricants, infused with pure moly disulfide, it goes on wet and then dries in 1-2 hours to a super-slick, high-pressure, hi-temp, bearing-like finish which provides the ultimate level of protection. Prevents rust and corrosion, won't wash off, throw off, and won't attract dust or dirt. Surfaces must be clean and dry of previous oils, etc. before application. Can even be used as an engine, tranny, and drivetrain assembly lube!
    $ 44.95

    HCP20863 Aftermarket super-duty GRAPHITE LUBE, in a generous 10-ounce aerosol can. The 800-pound gorilla of lubricants, it's infused with pure graphite, goes on wet, and then dries in 10 minutes to a super-slick, high-pressure, bearing-like finish which provides the ultimate level of protection. Prevents rust, won't wash off, throw off, and won't attract dust or dirt. Surfaces must be clean and dry of previous oils, etc. before application. Can be used as an engine assembly lube, bearing or bushing pre-lube, great for lock cylinders, and all metallic sliding surfaces. Use where dusty or dirty conditions render oil-based lubricants ineffective or undesirable.
    $ 42.95



    Engine Cleaners and De-greasers:

    NOTE: the following product(s) can only be shipped via ground transport (which thus eliminates the postal Priority Mail, postal Express Mail, or private carrier Expedited levels of service for this item) and cannot (and will not----don't even ask!) be shipped outside of the continental USA. Additionally, there may be a per-package weight or quantity restriction, and thus multiple-unit orders of this product may have to be shipped in separate packages and will incur additional shipping charges.


    HCP12352 Aftermarket water-soluble (rinse-off) AEROSOL ENGINE DEGREASER and CLEANER, in a handy 13-ounce aerosol can. Each:
    $ 44.95

    HCP12354 Aftermarket water-soluble (rinse-off) ENGINE DEGREASER and CLEANER, in a 16-ounce non-aerosol can. Best to transfer into an old windex spray bottle (etc.) and use with a spray nozzle. Each:
    $ 42.95
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2024
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