Your Carbs NEED to go CLUNK!!!

That's an interesting idea. Anyone have their own two cents on it?

 

I did mine tonight. None of them were falling very well.

I used 1500 grit WETorDRY using WD40 as my wet compound. I used a new little strip of the paper for each carb, and went at it. Up and down only, evenly around the bore. I spent about 10 minutes on each carb, wiped it down, cleaned the piston itself with a little carb cleaner and they all dropped like an important call on AT&T.

I didn't do the 800-1000-1200-1500 paper route, nor did I super-polish the bore with a Dremel I don't have, but what I did took them from barely falling to free falling like Tom Petty.

Pretty painless! Can't wait to forget all about my brakes and let the engine do all the work.

 

Nice!

 

Well lets hope these bloody fingers made a difference! Just got done polishing!

 

CLUNK!

 

best part was i thought they needed to go clunk with the diaphragm and hat on. So I did 800-1000-2000-polish.. If i'd remembered it was with the all that off I'd been done at 800!

 

I'm a total noob on this stuff too. Just so I'm clear:

*The pistons only need to go 'clunk' when the diaphram and such is off?*

I'm asking because they clunk perfectly when the rubber boot and spring isn't connected. But when everything is put back together, they don't clunk. And also they don't all spring at exactly the same rate. One may spit out a little slower or faster than another. But I've cleaned them all pretty well. I have a black coated piston, so I only wipe it down well with a cloth.

-KJ

 

Right.
When you are cleaning the Carbs ...
The Diaphragm Piston needs to be lifted and Clunk-down shut.
Hesitation, delay, drag, sticking or vibrating = No Good.

Once assembled.
They react to air pressure.

 

I used jewerler rouge to polish my aluminum on my Peterbilt so I can imagine how good it will do for polishing deep down into the bores. I have all the Dremel stuff and rouge needed. thanks for the info. my 750 does back off when twisting back on the wick however not as fast as a race bike. nice winter project, along with other winter projects

 

damn it i just read this after instalin the carbs. can sticking cause the idle to race to 5k as well?

 

5,000 rpm's means that you have Throttles involved. To make 5-Grand the Engine needs Main Jet Fuel.

A stuck Diaphragm would "Open the Gate" to letting Main Get Fuel race the Engine, ...

But, ... there would also NEED to have AIR along with that Fuel.
<><><><><><><><>

The most Common issues causing High RPM after a Carb Job.
>) Bench Sync done with too large a feeler.
>) Linkages fouled by Clamps.

>>) Carb Rack Cable Attachment Point JAMMED-UP under the back of the Head.

 

makes sence rick. but after i shut the bike off, i hit the carbs with my hand a few times and it starts up and runs good. so im sure the only thing i can dislodge would have to be the floats or the slides, am i right?

 

You can Burnish (maybe even polish) the Carb Bores without removing the Carbs.

Remove the Tank
Remove the Carb Hats.
Take-out the Springs and Piston Assys.

ScotchBrite Pads:
3/4" Wide Strips

Gray - Medium #7446* - "Scrub & Clean"
Scrub Bores completely clean.

White - Super Fine #7445** - "Finish"

*Gray / Hardware Store

**White / Order or AutoBody Supply

http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-0004 ... B002KI94Y8

 

nnnnnnnniiiiiiiiiiiccccccccccccceeeeeeeeeee! what about material falling into the carbs? do these type of pads not leave alot of stuff left over?

 

Actually, ... they don't.

They don't crumble.
You can only use a strip slightly wider than your finger.
Inert.
Non-metallic.

Lean on the White ScotchBrite and you'll get great results.
After you do the White ScotchBrite ...
You can to Old Tee-Shirt and Polishing Compound.

I use a DREMEL Tool.
I Cut ScotchBrite Wafer Discs out of the sheet.
I made a Cookie-Cutter Disc Maker by Sharpening BOTH the Inside and Outside Diameters of a stripped 19mm Socket.

7 ScotchBrite Discs will fit on a DREMEL Sanding Drum Mandrill.
You place a Mini-Flat Washer and an EXTERNAL Star Washer on the Dremem Bit.
Force ... 7 ScotchBrite Wafers on the Mandrill
Fasten them on with the Screw, Flat Washer and External Star Washer fitted to hold the Wafers from not spinning free and you have a Marvelous Cleaning Tool.

 

wow im loving it, ill let you know how the cleaning goes. i feel like i should have to pay for this kinda help, you guys are awesome help

 

Rick: After we polishes everything, would we vacume or blow everything out of the carbs?

 

Vacuum.
Be careful not to draw fuel from the Emulsion Tube.

There shouldn't be much in the way of anything to vacuum.
The Oxidation film gets into the Pad.
The Pad doesn't really "Break-down"or disintegrate.

Cut a New Strip of ScotchBrite as the scrubbing picks-up the film.

(L) :: ScotchBrite Scrub :: (M) Dremel Polish :: (R) Polished Bore

 

Thanks

 

status update:
i made sure all the slides "go clunk" and they all did perfectly. but, i had one needle sticking inside the slide body so i sanded alittle bit of that plastic plug deal off and the needle would then slide in and out of the housing nicely. ok i though that would do it. so i put it together and went to start it, first off the bike wont start on the first try, ever. i have to hit it with starter fluid to get it to bog to life, but after that it will start nicely on its own. and i still have the same exact problem the bike revs and wont let go. so while its running like crazy i hit the carbs and it goes away! i can do this over and over again. but if i only use about a quarter throttle to rev the bike the revs will fall back down again, its only if i use more than that, like half throttle. what am i missing?