Valve shim question

Ok, so I checked my clearances yesterday, and I need to get 4 shims. Unfortunetaly, only one of them is movable. And one of them is not marked at all, so I'm going to swap a marked one in and remeasure.

But my question here is, how do you take them out, and then turn the cams? Do you just leave the bucket open? And if so, how do you compress the spring later, to put a shim back in?

 

It's been a long time since I've done this, and the Haynes book is at home, but I seem to recal that while you're working on a sprcific shim, you don't just leave the bucket open and go to the next one. Measure, leaving the existing shim in place, go get the ones you need, then do the swap. I'll try to double-check my book when I get home, or someone else can chime in.

 

Well, after calling around, my only option for purchase is a dealer, at around $11/ea. So I was considering finding someplace with a surface grinder, but that is becoming a task as well.

 

I wish I could find where I'd misplaced mine form the last adjustment - maybe I have what you need - and you're not that far away. If I have time tonight, I'll dig through the basement.

 

Do not grind them! I did this temporarily. I only ran the bike for about 5 minutes with my ground shims in.

Mine aren't even part of the wear surface like yours, and I noticed that the ground surfaces had already started to mark the lifter.

These shims (I think) are surface hardened. That means you cannot grind them more than a tiny bit. Also - you cannot get them hot, or they also lose some of their hardness. This will result in premature wear to the lifters or cam. Not good!

I was able to buy a cheap micrometer ($15) from my local hardware store. You can use this to measure the thickness. I found mine to be very accurate, and now I have a new tool! This will save you from having to buy a test set of shims.

I can't speak to the procedure because my shims are under the lifter. I have to take my cams and lifters out to get to them.

 

The tool for this task is available from several sources. I've used the Motion Pro tool for years. Just make sure you place the tip of the bucket depression tool in the notch of the bucket and not the top lip of the bucket (don't ask)! As for modifying the shims, I wouldn't do it, period. The micrometer is a good investment to make, there is even a nice set that will convert Metric to SAE for you at the touch of a button. Look for them on sale on Harbor Freight's website ($16). If you search the forum, you will find a link to another XJ group that has a shim exchange program and will swap you shim for shim plus shipping for the shims you need. Aftermarket shims run about $5 and are not hard to get. Try BikeBandit.com if you are unable to hook up with the club. Of course the easiest way to pop shims is to pull the cams, but your adding to the work load. Good luck to you!

 

Try this link for info on a homemade tool and directions for use.
My dealer swapped my shims out for free.

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=4 ... c+tie.html

 

Kawasaki?

 

No, the Maxim X has a shim under lifter configuration.

 

I do have the motion pro tool. But it's only great for ONE valve at a time.

So I don't understand how some can swap shims around, to end up only needing a few(unless you get that other one first, then start the swap).

And I've called around, noone has the shims on hand, so noone is going to do a swap locally.

I've seen some Kawasaki shims on ebay, 29mm, that says it's compatible, for $5/each.

 

I made my own valve tool out of a scrap of angle iron.

The tip on the store bought models are not meant to go into the notch of the bucket, the notch is for prying out the shim with a small screw driver.

Ideally you would know what shims are in each position, measure your clearances and calculate which need to be swapped. Unfortunately you would need at least one shim to start swapping shims around.

I would NOT grind these shims.

 

There was a shim pool run by a guy called Brad Bowen going somewhere but for the life of me I can't find the link. A search of all topics may find something. Basically you send off a deposit and a few bucks each shim you want and they send you what you need. When you've finished you send your leftover shims back and get your deposit back.

 

Funny, it has been a few years since I did a clearance job, but I do recall using the notch as the depression point with the tool. I defer to your call Nick, nice job on the tool. You wouldn't happen to have a CAD drawing would you?

 

:lol: CAD drawing! :lol: sorry Robert, it was just a hack saw, a hammer, and hmmm cut some here, bend there, drill here, and hey it worked !

 

even though I'm diggin the grave on this one, i just wanted to say well done on that home made tool - thats damn fine for what tools you used!!

 

Thanks Nick.

Will be making one. I bet won't be as pretty as yours!

just a question ~ what is the thickness?

cheers

kinen1

 

I've always managed on my bikes - Yam, Suzuki and Kwaks using just a flat screwdriver against the camshaft to depress and jam down the bucket and a pointed tool or miniature screwdriver to remove the shim. just takes a bit of practice.

 

Not recommended. The corner of your flat screwdriver could easily take a nice big nick out of the edge of the hole where the bucket rides in the head and cause a bindy bucket.

It's safer to jam something down the plug hole to prop the valve open.