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Fork rebuilding 101

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by MAX-X, Jan 11, 2007.

  1. MAX-X

    MAX-X Member

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    Ok now, I have done the search & read the post, I would like to replace the seals in my forks due to leakage. I put a few pounds of air in each fork (85 Maxim X) Only to find small puddles under each fork & a mess on the forks & calipers. I have seen where others have installed "Progressive" springs since they had the forks apart, what are the advantages/disadvantages of installing new springs, I'm assuming because the old ones would be worn or have some "sag" to them. bike had 11k when I bought it, now have 15k on it. I've also read about special tools & what not. what special tools or home made tools do I need to do this? I'm set up pretty well in the garage area ie: compressor, impact, hand tools & so forth. Just want to take advantage of winter wrenching before springtime.
     
  2. FinnogAngela

    FinnogAngela Member

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    Check this out: http://www.skylinc.net/~hap/maxim-x/ser ... ml#forkair

    I´m not familiar with the technical aspects but progessives seem the way to go ("By all means put Progressive brand fork springs in there! I had mine (XJ550h maxim) done and the difference is like day and night! You will love the Progressives ride!" is one of the replies I got from the maillist regarding switching front springs to progressives). I´ve changed my stock rear shocks to Koni progressives and I can only agree withe the "night and day" difference (very happy with the switch). A good guide and a bit more on progressives can be found here: http://roadstarclinic.com/content/view/143/128

    Tricks: My top cap bolts were rusty and I had to soak them in WD40 for a couple of days and reinstall them to the lower fork bracket of the tripple tree to get enough hold on them to get the bolt loose (no. 2 was easier than the first, probably ´cause the WD40 worked for a couple of days more).

    The top of your damper rod is probably 22mm and will accept a head/nut of this size - necessary for getting the bottom allen-screw loose (and maybe more important - fastened again). So you need a 22mm bolt/nut at the end of something long enough to reach down the inner tube..

    Trick: A broomstick of a slightly larger diameter (23,5mm) made slightly conical with a hobby-knife and whacked tight down with a hammer - will hold the damper-top enough to loosen the bottom allen-screw with the whack of a hammer (see pics). If it is enough to hold the damper-top while fastening the bottom-screw, I don´t know yet..

    Check out my pics here: http://hjem.get2net.dk/xjmaximdk/vedlrep.htm#fg

    - and pay special attention to the upper and lower teflon-layered metal slides ("guide bushings") - if the teflon-layer is worn out, showing the brass underneath, you´ll have extended wear on your inner-/outer tubes and you don´t wanna replace these (=expensive..)

    + replace the small copper-washer on the bottom allen-srew when reassembling - if you reuse the old one and it´s not tight, you have to start all over... :(

    me too 8)
     
  3. MAX-X

    MAX-X Member

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    Thanks FinnogAngela, I appreciate the write up, judging by only 1 reply I guess no one else has any input.
     
  4. BlueMaxim

    BlueMaxim Active Member

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    Nope! Not when Finn has said it all! Except that when reassembling, remember to use some Blue Loctite on the bottom damper bolt. If your seals are rusted in , a three prong puller will get them right out.
     
  5. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    Ditto that. FinnogAngela gave you all you needed. What more could we possibly add?
     
  6. MAX-X

    MAX-X Member

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    Got 'em done, & with the progressive springs I might add. Much better now, The Bike doesn't do a nose dive anymore when coming to a stop. very pleased. Thanks Finn,Blue & Rob!
     
  7. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    If the Seal Retaining-wire style circlips are rusted ... get new ones.
    Do new Dust Covers with the Job. Don't regret it later.

    End-cap's can be: Stuck ... or, Not Stuck.
    Look-out for the NOT Stuck ... Even worn-out springs will surprise you.
    Stuck? Use Fork Oil as lube. Be ready for the "Jack-in-the-Box"

    First time-er's should:

    Remove the End Cap and let the spring relax. Some models have a preload sleeve above the spring.
    Hold the spring IN the tube while you tilt the whole thing and let the fork oil drain-out into a drain pan.
    Spread-out some newspaper.
    Pull the spring and note which end is close-wound or not.
    Allow spacers or protective flat washers to come out ... line-up.
    Release damper retaining bolt.
    Back to the newspaper.
    Tilt the Fork and allow the Damping Assy to slide-out very slowly and keep the pieces in order as they come-out.
    Take a picture ... make a drawing ... or, write-out how each piece is placed.
    (Reason: The exploded views of lower fork assys in many workshop manuals don't allow for variations across model years)

    Inspect the cone-shaped Oil-lock piece. If the cone and seat are scratched-up from low oil ... the CONE can be "LAPPED-IN" to the SEAT by very lightly rotating it within the seat using valve lapping compound.

    When you put everything together ... use clean fork oil to lube everything.
    "Have fun stormin' the castle!"
     
  8. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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