My $2 CLEAR float level bowl

We discussed this last year and since I didn't have any floats to set I dropped it.
Well, I had a set to work on and a lot of guys are having all kinds of problems so I decided to revisit the clear bowl project.

It's generally a PIA to put a tube on the nipples (or get something to fit inside the Mikunis) and you need to open and close the drain screw, then you need to pull the bowl on and off every time you tweak it plus the fuel level in the tube isn't a straight line.

As I have mentioned before, the bowls just need to be held in place and not sealed during this process. If they overflow>>>The floats are too high anyway.
But, sometimes they seem very inconsistent and I just wanna know what's going on in there.

Here is my $2 solution:
Buy a plastic 8oz measuring cup. Take the heat gun after it and form the top into a nice square the same size as the float bowl. Be patient, but it doesn't take a lot of heat to make the plastic ply-able. I bought three so I could experiment but the first came out very good. I bet a good hair dryer would do it.
I used my blow gun to cool off the spots I had the way I wanted so could work on the less perfect spots without totally distorting it.

Once it's warm, it's amazingly easy to manipulate.

Hold the cup under the carb and open the fuel valve. Watch the fuel pour into the cup and hopefully the floats will float and close the valve before the cup overflows. If so, simply shut the fuel supply off, dump a little gas out of the cup, tweak the float tang, and try again.
Yes, it can be a bit stinky and messy but with these old and often neglected carbs it's critical to get the floats shutting the fuel flow off otherwise it is impossible to get the fuel mix right on the top end.
I adjusted my buddy's bike and he gained 8 mpg instantly.
http://s288.photobucket.com/albums/ll16 ... oatcup.jpg
http://s288.photobucket.com/albums/ll16 ... rbbowl.jpg
http://s288.photobucket.com/albums/ll16 ... tlevel.jpg

 

Nice... gives me some food for thought... Thanks

 

Ok, so could you fill your bowl with gas up to the prescribed mark that the clear tube test would come out to, then pour that into a measuring cup to get the exact amount that you need to work with, then measure and adjust from there with the bowls on the carb to see what the floats are doing? The correct float level would be +/- the tolerance of your pre-measured amount? Sorry, trying to wrap my mind around this, lol.

 

No. The volume of gas makes no difference.

As the gas runs through the carb (filling the cup), you should see the floats "float" and close the needle valve before the cup overfills. The distance below the bottom of the gasket to the level of the gas in the cup is the measurement you are concerned about. It is supposed to be 3mm below the gasket face.
The carb I show is probably a bit low.
I started with an empty cup and allowed it to fill on it's own from my test tank through the needle valve and the level shown is where the fuel stopped flowing. This also verifies how fast your fuel is flowing into the carbs.

 

I like this idea rather than taking off the carbs multiple times (especially for a newb like me).

 

this totally takes guess work out of play... your idea is awesome!!!

 

Ok, great clarification and the pics help as well. I agree Metal_Bob, sucks to take them on and off, better to one-shot it, lol. Thanks Designer, great info!

p.s. metal_bob, I seem to remember some global bankers doing those things you mentioned and pushing their austerity measures all over the globe, bankrupting countries and covering up major nuclear fallout and lying about what we're doing in Libya, etc. etc., but maybe it's just me

 

Whatever floats your boat, ... I guess.

But, this is way too complicated a process to conduct a very simple test.

I guess all you really need is a Fool-proof Clear Hose Tool that won't Pop-out of the Examination Port on the MIKUNI Float Bowl.

\

 

Yeah Rick, or someone needs to design some clear Plexiglas bowls that we can all switch out with and always be able to see what's going on. The "seeing" part is what is so appealing about this. Once accomplished, then your tang height measurement concept would totally kick in for future carb work, lol.

 

Ya man now thats using your noggin!!!!! I will definately do it this way the next time Thanks for sharing your idea Mike

 

I disagree, Rick. With this method you dont have to take the bowl off for every adjustment, this is instant gratification, simple measuring, and still, a very simple method.

But hey, everyone's entitled to an opinion.

 

Did nobody see those press-in nipples for the Mikuni float bowls I demonstrated in the float levels writeup? I forget Len's part number offhand, but he does stock the things. Makes it much easier to put the measuring tube on.

 

If you use four similar bowls, you have a 10$ float measurement tool (+ some for the gas)... Nice work!

 

I do like the press in nipples Schmuckaholic, but this is how the process usually goes for me. The write up is awesome BTW.
bowl on, clear tube in, loosen drain screw, turn on gas, wait for overflow, damn they are low now, close drain screw, take clear tube out, remove bowl, adjust float, put bowl back on, insert clear tube, open drain screw, turn on gas, wait for level to rise DAMN IT..Crap, %!&#*^ :x :x >>> the test tank is out of gas and I just set the float the wrong way and you can start over. (throw screwdriver across shop with more cursing)....Yes it can get frustrating even for those of us that know what we are doing.

MAJOR UPDATE>> apparently the measure cup material doesn't really like gas ...after sitting with residue on it and gas inside for a while, the plastic has developed all kinds of cracks and failure is imminent!

I will try with some windshield washing fluid just to see how the difference in SG affects levels.

Here is a video I shot. Look closely, and you can see a couple cracks in the bottom.
http://s288.photobucket.com/albums/ll16 ... evel-1.mp4
LOVE that fancy fuel shut off valve or what!

 

I wondered that when I saw it. some plastics and gas are not a good mix.

Perhaps a small glass candle holder, though not the wifes which she intends to light candles in, would do the trick.

The gas won't eat it, you can find them in all sizes and shapes and they're still see through. Some may even be just as cheap.

 

Experiment's been done already, it throws them off. Mineral Spirits is closer to gasoline than anything water-based.

 

what about farm diesel? it's nice and red, much kinder to plastic, and is similar to gas but isnt as "dry"

 

I have suggested that a new "standard" be set so we aren't playing with a table full of gasoline. Distilled water or "lamp fuel" known as Paraffin outside the US. This would be consistent worldwide.

Due to the density, the setting would be lower, like 6MM.
Using water would require a quick shot of WD-40 afterwards.
You could adjust your floats on the kitchen table with no smell.

 

I thought the same way and got a small glass container at Target some time ago (Martha Stewart Living IIRC) but it is still too big. Proper dimensions are something like 2.5"x2.5"x2". Saw some glass container sets at Sam's club but the smallest one is too shallow. OTOH - we have several small, round baking/measuring/prep bowls from Pampered Chef that are 3 1/2" in diameter and 2 1/2" deep that may work (not tried it yet though). Linky
Williams Sonoma has some too in a different size: Linky
If you have a resturant supply place you can check out what sizes they may have.

 

What i don't get is why can't they make the carbs with an adjustable float that can be adjusted with a screw that sticks out from one of the sides of the carb...clockwise lower, counterclockwise higher.... sort of like the float in the toilet tank??? And then they could use the same type of plastic they use for the clear plastic inline fuel filters to make a half-circle looking glass on the side of the carb and you could watch as the fuel rises.....

 

TtR if you can do the research and "benchmark" a new standard that would be awesome. I like the idea of using something other than gasoline and not as stinky as mineral spirits or diesel fuel. Plus if we use lamp oil our bikes will smell really good when we start 'em up.

 

They make exactly that. Just not for these bikes. I've seen them on some Holley carbs. Probably others as well.

 

How about something like this glass vase? This is 2 3/8" square by 2 1/2 deep. They also have 3" square. Here is the site.

 

A Vinyl Hose Union, ... like the ones we need to have as Restriction Devices for Vacuum Lines, ... can be be sanded-down and used to fit the Mikuni Test Orifice; Fluid Tight.

I understand how giddy you can get being able to see the Floats bobbing-around in the Clear Container.
That, alone ... does not make for this being a good idea.

The Good Idea is the one that is most accurate and simplest to perform.

I'm pretty sure that MOST folks will be very happy to do the job as prescribed in the WorkShop Manual.

The process is to Check and Observe the Fuel Height in the Float Bowl to see if Adjusting the Float Heights is Necessary.

You don't need the view inside the Bowl.
You only need to know at what level the Fuel is at in the Bowl.

Sorry, fellas ... I ain't comin'-over to the Dark Side; when it just don't git any easier than this!!!

 

If you have a set of carbs that are completely whacky (PO installed floats upside down and bent the crap out of them)...it can take many adjustments to get them dialed in and significant amount of time putting the bowls on, then off, then back on etc. Personally, I'd rather be riding than messing with carb bowls but that's just me.

This can make it a whole lot easier to make those adjustments.
If it's more interesting and easier to set the float> GREAT! Maybe everyone can set them properly and there won't be gas in anyone's oil when their petcock fails.

If the new guys can actually see what's going on in there, I think they might actually understand what they are trying to adjust and that is the name of the game.

Once you have them set, you rarely have to mess with them but when resurrecting a basket case there are a lot of unknowns and if this helps one member set their floats properly then it was a good idea IMO.

 

Desinger_Mike that was well said. Anything that helps someone (because we all process the same info just a little differently so that it makes sense to us personally; for me that borders on being 'wacko') is a good idea. And Malossi thinks it's a good idea:

http://www.myscooterparts.co.uk/general ... 630003306/
If only they made them for XJ's but then as we all know the UK gets all the cool stuf. All that being said, if the carbs are on the bike and I suspect a float issue, I'm reaching for the clear tube (it is the gold standard) but if the carbs are on the bench this is definitely an idea I will play with. Thanks.

 

Amen.

Plus, we're (mostly) men; we're supposed to smell like gasoline occasionally. But do the carbs in the garage, not in the kitchen.

 

If the tube method shows you have a level problem throw the cup under it and take care of it, I would not call that the dark side Id call it the smart side, if you guys cant see the simplicity that it makes to correct the levels I really dont know what to say

 

Another XJBiker suggested simply using one of those $0.99 water bottles, cut in half. They come in a variety of sizes, and the sides would flex in between carbs on a rack.

 

TtR - like a "graduated" water bottle? That's a cool idea! If I follow what you're getting at then you don't put the float bowls on and off. You just hold the water bottle full of gas (or whatever liquid you opt to use) at the flange surface of the carbs and note your fuel level? I think I like it.

I went back and re-read Designer Mike's description of hot forming the plastic measuring cup and I have to say that I think this is waaay cool! I am in the middle of doing a rack of carbs now and I am going to give this a shot.

 

I think its a great idea. Some people get lucky and only have to set then 2 or 3 times to get it right. I usually get them when they are so messed up i end up having to dry set them then go at it. Its a pain in the butt to keep pulling the bowls off. And even worse when the have no nipples for the hose to slip on

 

Why are some posts too big to show up in my viewing screen?

 

you could line up four of these and slip the carbs in all at once... speed man speed !!!!

 

Just use the clear tube, only put 2 bolts in the bowl, it's no big deal.

 

how are you going to hold the tube on mikuni carbs?

 

First, what OS are you using?
If you are using Windows 7 then look in your tool bar for a button that looks like a page is torn in half, it's called a "Compatibility View". Click on it and see if the view changes to being able to see the whole page.

 

Because somewhere in the Thread is a Photograph that was NOT Re-Sized before being included in the Post.

Some of these Photographs are entirely too big.

 

I use a stiff plastic pipe 1" long with the clear tube pushed over it.

 

Sand-down the Bubble Flare on a Vinyl Vacuum Hose Union.

You can get that Union to Fit so tightly in the Mikuni Drain Port that you have to
work-it-out to make it come free.

 

The clear bowl method is soooooo much easier.

 

Just remember that if your hand moves up and down while you're holding the cup under the carb, you won't be getting accurate results.

You'll be reading higher than the true level.

Same thing holds true for the clear tube method, but IMHO it's just easier to keep everything steady while your checking. When I did mine, I taped the tube to the side of the carb body before I let fuel into the bowl. That way I was guaranteed it wouldn't be moving around and I could count on accurate repeatable results.

 

Move the tube around all you like & it will always settle back to the level in the chamber.

 

Thanks Maxim-X that did the trick.

 

Yes, the level in the tube will always settle out to the level in the bowl, but you're missing the point. The POINT is that while they are the same, they are wrong. They will be too high.

Picture this... You suspend the carb body half way down inside a gallon bucket and let fuel flow until the float closes the needle. Now you've got half a bucket of fuel that comes up to 3 mm below the bowl mounting surface. Life is good.

Now pull the carb up an inch out of the bucket and what happens? The fuel will flow again until the level in the bucket has come up an inch. Now you've got an inch more than a half a bucket of fuel that comes up to 3 mm below the bowl mounting surface. Life is still good.

Now push the carb back down an inch into the bucket back to it's original position and what happens? The bottom of the carb gets dunked into a bucket that has an inch more fuel in it that the float wants. The floats are closed. BOY are they closed. They are uber closed, but it's too late. Since fuel cannot flow backwards up the needle valve the reading is too high.

Same thing happens with any other float level test method. Once fuel has passed downward through the needle valve, it's not going to defy gravity and go back through it the other way. Once it's in the bowl, or the tube, or the clear cup, or the bucket, it's there to stay. If you have an unsteady hand and are moving your tube or your plastic cup up and down as you are checking the levels, your reading will be too high. You know from the first step that your float levels are set correctly, but your reading is now an inch high.

So... If you're doing this with the bowls on and using a tube, once you get too much fuel in the tube, the only remedy is to drain a bunch of fuel out of the bowl and start over. If you're using a clear container, you have to hold still and if you think you've got too much fuel in the cup, you can move it down a little to see what happens (until you run out of depth and your cup runneth over.)

 

Are you a Democrat ?

 

i am building a carb stand. not just for this. It will be the proper height for a 4x4 to sit under it so the glass or cup will stay level. I always like to leave the fuel on for an hour or so just to make sure there are no problems and i know they are perfect that way. I just dont want to widdle vac tees to put in my mikuni carbs. I might even buy 4 of the glass holders i can check them all at 1 time. most of my other bikes have mikunis also

 

Using a stand to hold everything steady works. Just make sure that your catch can is larger than your supply can.

In other words... Unless you're going to stand there for an hour and watch it, I would make sure the container(s) below the carbs is large enough to hold all of the fuel in your container above the carbs. Last thing you want to do is come back after an hour only to find that one of your needles seals "OK", but leaks a little.

Carbs on a stand hovering over top of an overflowing container of gas. :lol: