I bought a new ignition switch without keys from a member.
It arrived in the mail today and since I already had the old switch off, I decided to do a write up for those of you that don't know much about the internals of an ignition switch.
Most of these steps will also help those that just need to tear apart the switch for cleaning.
The new switch is on the left, the old nasty looking one on the right is what we are replacing.
Since the new switch didn't come with keys, and I wanted to keep my original key because all my locks are still the same, it will be a little more complicated than unplug the old and plug in the new.
We'll start with the ignition off the bike, but for those that need to take the original off, there are two 10mm hex head bolts that need to be removed from the bottom side of the switch.
To remove the ignition from the handlebar lock and get at the internals you need to remove the two phillips head screws holding the two units together.
After the handlebar lock is removed turn the switch upside-down. You will see the contact bar. Remove this, then remove the locating ring underneath the contact bar.
You will then need to remove the two small phillips head screws and pull out the retaining plate, contact turning post (for lack of a better term), and the spring underneath them.
With everything out of the way you can see the exposed pin, which is 6th in the line of the 6 pin lock. I highlighted this pin yellow to make it easier to see in the pic.
This is the same tab when the tumbler is out of the housing.
And a close up of the tab (yellow arrow). You need to find something small to slide this pin into the tumbler so you can push the lock out of the housing. I used a small allen wrench. With the housing upside down, push down so the lock slides out from the top of the housing.
CAUTION: It is best to remove this with key in place. If you don't have the key, as I didn't for the new lock, REMOVE VERY SLOWLY. If you don't you will have 6 pins and 6 very tiny springs flying about.
Here you have all of the components out of the housing.
As you could see in the second pic, my original lock takes an "E" blank. The new ignition isn't an "E", so I will just be replacing the entire tumbler into the new housing.
If the new lock was an "E", I would be replacing the pins themselves so that the only part of the old lock that I would be reusing would be the pins. Just replace them in order and you'll be fine.
As you can see the old lock is quite filthy. Time to pull out the sandpaper, or in my case, the Dremel.
A light touch with the polishing stone in the Dremel works wonders to go from dull to shiny. The pins probably didn't need to be polished, but I'm kinda anal, so they got shined up along with the lock tumbler.
Locking mechanism all shined up and reassembled, ready for install.
When inserting the lock back into the housing, you may need to depress the 6th pin in with your tool of choice. When the lock is seated properly you will hear a small "click".
Turn the housing over to check for proper positioning of the pin.
And check the top of the housing to see that the tumbler fits flush into the housing.
Then we start the reassembly of the rest of the switch with the spring...
the turning post and retaining plate....
and the locating ring. Note that the raised side is out when looking at the ring from the bottom of the lock.
At this point, if you are just doing a cleaning of the switch, you can use a pencil eraser, sandpaper, or a buffing wheel in the Dremel to clean up the contacts.
Then a light smearing of dielectric grease on the face of the wiring pad.
And install the contact bar, then join the housing to the handlebar lock. Note the location of the red and green tabs. The locating ring and wiring pad need to be installed with these notches lined up. The good news is that it is the only way the parts will seat, so it's pretty much idiot proof.
Once reassembled with the final two phillips screws installed, turn the key from the "ON" position...
to the "Parking" position to ensure that everything rotates properly and the key stops at all the proper points.
Ready to reinstall on the bike. Notice how much nicer the new lock looks when compared to the old housing.
Now for that handlebar locking mechanism. I wanted to show this part seperately so as not to confuse anyone with the lock install.
Whether you are replacing the lock, replacing the entire switch, or just pulling your old switch apart for a cleaning, you should do these steps.
I will be using the old parts for these pics. The new parts were much cleaner looking than these when I installed them.
With the plastic engagement cog removed, you can see the spring and pin that are the handlebar lock. Clean all old grease out of there...
and off of the plastic cog.
I found that the easiest way to reinstall the plastic piece is to hold the pin with a pair of pliers while you grease the channel where the triangle rests. I use marine reel
grease. It's waterproof, doesn't break down, and will not freeze.
Then install the plastic cog, and remove the pliers.
Note the position of the larger part of the plastic piece. If you do this step and it is on the right side instead of the left, your switch will not work.
And that is how you replace the internals of an ignition switch so that you can still have the same key for all of your locks on the bike.