PLUGWIRE POSSIBLE SUSPECT IN IGNITION FAILURE

This topic is associated with #1 PLUG WIRE SHORTING, SHOCKING, BUT RUNS FINE, what now?
a shorting issue on a plug wire: http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=38031.html
Let this serve as a lesson learned.
I was riding my bike yesterday and I stopped. When I returned to the bike it would not respond at the turn of the key. I think the wire that was shorting (#1) was the cause of this. Where do I start on troubleshooting other than the battery (it's at 12.5V)?LUGWIRE POSSIBLE SU

 

Re: SHORT IN PLUGWIRE ENDS UP KILLING POWER TO IGNITION SWITCH

This is a quote from the other post: #1 PLUG WIRE SHORTING, SHOCKING, BUT RUNS FINE, what now?
BigFitz (XJWIZARD)
replies:
It's not the coil if you only lost fire on one cylinder; or at least highly doubtful.

The coil that fires #1 also fires #4; #2 and #3 are fired from the other one.

When the coil fires, it fires both of its plugs every time, even though one cylinder is on the exhaust stroke. (This is known as a "wasted spark" system.)

These coils are pretty proprietary; it's not something that you're likely to find locally unless you live near a motorcycle junk yard.

DID YOU TAKE THE PLUG CAP off the wire yet? How about the resistor core? The rubber boots just slide off the cap, slip the rubber parts off and inspect the cap.

Check the connections to the coils. Check the wiring from the ignition pickups, especially where it comes out of the back of the case and snakes around before disappearing next to the alternator.

Take the tank off and inspect everything carefully. A "failing" coil doesn't cause the symptoms you were initially describing; something else is going on. CAREFULLY inspect the #1 plug wire along its entire length. Be sure the wire isn't cut or split or damaged internally (you would "feel" that.)
_________________
'83 XJ550RK Seca- "Toxic Asset"; 16K miles- resto-fied, upgraded and personalized (stock but better) now my DR
'81 XJ550RH Seca- Fully Recommissioned original classic; 27K miles- stock except bars, seat, shocks and SS brake lines.
'82 XJ650RJ Seca- 13K miles and rough. Slowly undergoing resurrection
1974 Norton Commando 850- ORIGINAL OWNER; 45K original miles and going strong

First Bike: 1966 Honda CB160 Sport! (in '68)

 

OK, and...

Did you do as I suggested? What were the results? Did you ascertain where the wire was "shorting" out?

I gave you a list of things to look at. Start there, as quoted above; and thank you.

 

I just checked it out and:

No sign of cable play etc. Felt out wires and no signs of breakage and looking good (this bike has been garage kept and very low miles). I pulled the cap off, looked and it was OK. then I liooked at the cylinoid and noticed a soldered post connected to the cylinoid and it was VERY close to the frame if not touching and a worn spot through the paint. The cylinoid had boots over the terminals concealing the two well but the other thing coming out was not. Then for the first time I turned the key I saw the neutral light come on! So I proceded to start it and it busted off and died and I lost power again. I DID hear a CLICK sound at the cylinoid. The #1 plug wire was not connected so I connected it. I then made sure the cylinoid was not grounding and started it with no problem. Then tried starting it with the cylinoid pushed up to the frame Grounding the solder terminal with wire coming off near hot post)and it still started. I noticed #1 still has SOME shock to it and also checked the rest for shorts. Found #1 and #3 to short a little bit. It's running but I do not understand why and that's freaky.

 

I was riding today and it went dead on me somehow. I noticed the battery post on the ground was against the frame and the cylinoid problem was not fixed with electric tape yet so I tried to move that away from the frame as well. It started. I got to the house and taped it up. When I touched #1 plug wire on the cap and got a little shock (but not bad and no shock from #3. I will be going to ride about 20 miles tomorrow hopefully with no problems.

 

I will see about fixing the boots with new ones as they are old and may have lost their shielding properties, then just splice the new ones on preferrably. Although I do not see all this as an issue of serious attention, as it is probably a fairly common issue. I am hoping to find similar topics that were cylinoid related.I have had times that I could not get the bike to start and had power. I would arch a screwdriver to the cylinoid; did that for weeks. In this case the cylinoid is at fault of a "no power". I have never been much of a reader but maybe I was forseeing the future of internet communication. We live in a totally different interactive society today with this new form of correspondence. I can dig it.

 

this is a confusing thread and full of red herrings! For a start you need to search on solenoid, not cylinoid. What is the status of your battery? Is it old? And no external sparking at plug caps is not normal! What exactly do you mean? Where are the sparks jumping from and to??

 

Gday Mate,
Spent some time on the gold coast, Sydney and Cairnes. Good times in the pubs. That was a long time ago.
New gel batt works.
Shocks me when its running and only when I touch the top end of the cap. I figure I need to get a better splice on the end of the line and then maybe a new cap (old one is probably dry from the heat and lost most of its density). I have been using her the last two days without problem since I tabed up the solenoid and ground post.