Homemade YICS tool

I'd like to build my own YICS tool following the instructions I found on this great site. I understood that there are compressible sections intended to block the YICS passages when you turn the butterfly nut in.

I'd like to know what I should and what I shouldn't use for these compressible sections. Would rubber fuel hose sections be enough heat resistant for this purpose or would they melt too easily?

 

http://www.planetvape.ca/silcon-high-te ... ubing.html

 

Thanks for the link. Is this hi-temp silicon tubing usually available in autoparts or hardware store?

 

Don't know...I order this from them a few days ago to make my own blanking tool.

 

Good for you, but I would have to find a closer source since I'm in Canada.

 

The home made yics tools I've seen have all used fuel hose (3/8") and this should be more than heat resistant enough considering the conditions it works in in automotive applications. Guessing from the web address of that site the silicon stuff is more a pot smoker's tool lol

 

I think they are closer to you than to me..

PlanetVape
14554 - 4646 Heritage Hills Blvd
Mississauga, Ontario L5R 4G3
Canada
PHONE: 1.855.773.7719

 

I know fuel hose is always used pretty close to the engine, so it has to be moderately resistant to heat, but the YICS "tunnel" probably gets hotter than the surface of the engine, that's why I asked my question.

 

I go with the "better safe than sorry" I read that if the rubber melts and blocks the yics ports it is a real bi*ch to get cleaned out. So a few bucks to me is worth it.

 

EDIT-: advice re. materials retracted due to following posts

But I see your point, silicon is 100% heat tolerant so you wouldn't have to potentially work faster than you'd want. Would be interesting to know if there's a more "legitimate" supplier of the stuff really, could be interesting explaining to the police that you bought products from a drug-smoking store to tune your motorcycle lol

 

You don't want to use fuel hose! The outside of the cylinder head gets to 350-F plus degrees, and the internal passages probably get much hotter:

How Hot is Hot?:

The following information was measured on a stock, un-modified XJ650 YICS engine, with the air temperature between 60- to 70-F. Modified engines, engine tune conditions, different air temperatures and humidity levels, etc. will affect these readings up or down.

Using our HCP9959 Digital Infrared Heat Thermometer, we verify that the cylinders and the valve cover are the hottest part of the engine, with the front of the cylinder jugs (exhaust port side) reaching almost 390-F during and immediately after spirited riding, while the intake side of the cylinders were consistently 50-degrees cooler (350-F). Cylinder heads, surprisingly, remain much cooler, just barely breaking the 280-F mark.

Engine upper case and engine side covers vary in their readings depending on which cover and where on the engine case the reading is taken, but in all cases are substantially cooler than the cylinder head, valvecover, or jugs.

Brake rotors were measured at 300-F or more after 10 consecutive maximum-force braking events from 50mph. Calipers were approximately 50-F cooler.

Rear final drive units are like refrigerators, and were never measured at over 140-F.



You'll need at least 450-F rated hose, 600-F silicone is even better, but......it also needs to be the right ID (to fit somewhat closely to the size driver rod used) and it needs to be "squishy" enough to respond the the clamping action when the lever is activated.........but not too squishy!

Remember, engine synch is done on a warm engine, and the entire synch/colortune process can take upwards of 10-15 minutes. If the rubber melts inside that passage, you'll quickly understand why you wanted the hi-temp rubber isolator sections.........

 

Len
THanks for that detailed information! You're the man!

 

NOw I'd like to make that tool the right way, what is the correct design to make sure there isn't any leak that could fool the adjustment?

 

Nice post, previous statement retracted! 8) Out of interest, what did Yamaha actually use for the tool? I seem to recall that if that's left in too long it can melt too that's in a way what lead me to believe fuel hose would be suitable material...

 

Anyone have a reasonable source for 3/8 DIA Silicone hose??

I'm ready to build my "inflatable tube" contraption that simply adds an old tire valve "Schrader" glued to this tube, then plugged at the other end.

 

So your plan is to make a long silicon balloon that you will plug the YICS passage with?

 

Just GOOGLE Silicone Hose.

You'll find a Boat-load of suppliers.

 

That's the idea. Sounds simpler than cutting and assembling a bunch of hardware. 8)

 

I'D like to see that!

 

You are going to use it a lot. I built one with silicone fuel line, but really didn't feel comfortable with it. I finally bought one from Chacal that I know is the right size and material, and also bought a few extra rubber inserts. It gets really hot, and in fact mine seals so well when hot that I have to wiggle it while slightly pulling to get it out most of the time. Yanking it is going to probably tear the rubber seals. It always comes out, but I have to be patient. Doing that and the seals don't get torn or wear out.

 

Lube the Sealing Elements of a Home-made or Store-bought YICS Tool with Marvel Mystery Oil or Brake Fluid.

Neither one will boil or harm the Rubber of Silicone elements of the Tool.

 

Good to know. And I have them both.