Handlebar Swap - Ditching the Horns

Figured I would share the details on my bar swap for those of you considering it.

I have an 82 Maxim 650. I do not care for the buckhorn bars so I wanted to swap for the euro style bars. I had initially installed the Euro bars but felt that you were reaching for them. I then ordered a set of Daytona Cruiser bars since they offered a little more pull back and height. These felt perfect.

This leaves a couple items to address.


Master cylinder. The stock MC will sit at an angle which could affect your brake operation in certain scenarios and the levers are also angled a bit so the lever will dip down from the bar rather than staying parallel. I went with a MC from a 650 Turbo and also got the matching clutch lever perch so the clutch lever could remain parallel to the bars. Keep in mind, the turbo MC has the float switch so you will either need to plug the hole or replace the o-ring for the sensor when you rebuild it. You are rebuilding that old MC before trusting your brakes to it right?


Cables. The stock choke cable can be rerouted and remain. The stock throttle cable works fine in the original routing. The clutch cable should be replaced. There is no way to route the stock length cable without affecting it's "smoothness" and wrapping around the headlight looking goofy. The cable needs to be about 7" shorter. The 650 Seca cable is a perfect fit. It will route through the stock location and both ends match up perfectly.

HCP2703 OEM CLUTCH CABLE, for all XJ650 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models, and all XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models. Wire length = 54".

HCP2704 OEM replacement CLUTCH CABLE, for all XJ650 Euro models, XJ650RJ Seca, and XJ650 Turbo models. This cable has a rubber accordion bellows boot on the end and a black spring armor guard, and while such features are not original, will fit and work properly. Wire length = 47".


Brake Hose. The stock brake hose from the MC to the distribution block will not work. Once again, Len has us covered here. He offers a custom line that I can confirm works with the Euro and Daytona cruiser bars.

HCP23696CLRST Aftermarket DOT-approved braided stainless steel BRAKE LINE ASSEMBLY, from the master cylinder to the distribution joint, with clear sheathing. . FOR USE WITH ANY NON-ORIGINAL OEM OR OUR AFTERMARKET HCP3063WO or HCP1808WO MASTER CYLINDER WITH A FORWARD-FACING FLUID OUTLET PORT AND WITH MOST NON-STOCK “FLAT” STYLE (Euro, Flat Tracker, Drag Bars, etc.) HANDLEBARS (the fluid outlet port on the "large" face of the reservoir housing).

Wires. All the electrical cables will have some additional length to them now. You could cut, solder, heat shrink them but I opted to retain the length in case I or another owner wants to revert back. You can route them a little differently and stuff a little extra into the headlight bucket.

Mirrors. This will leave the stock mirrors looking at your shoulders. There's many options here, bar end, extended, etc. I have another set to try coming from Len now and will update once I get some testing in.

Overall I'm happy with the change, gives her a nice sporty feel in the twistiness.

Euro Bars (23-12563)" Rise, 5.5" Pullback:



Daytona Touring (P/N 23-12564) 4" Rise, 6.5" Pullback:



They have a classic bar too which looks like it would work, however, I did not try it so I cannot comment on if it will clear tank and cable fitment.

 

The Classic bar should clear the tank. It has a higher rise than the Daytona.

 

Thanks for the details. If i get my 83 XJ750 maxim i will prob do this swap.