No key questions and other missing parts.

Good morning guys, new to the forum but not to motorcycles. Saw a deal on FB marketplace that I had to check out. Well long story short it followed me home. 1982 XJ650 Maxim. Price was right so I’m taking a chance. Owner pulled the carbs and during a move lost them so I’ve got to source those. Also there is no key so I would appreciate info on how to release the seat and gas cap unless I can order a new key with the ser#? I’ll have plenty of questions I’m sure but the bike has 004798 on the odometer so I’m pretty sure I won’t have to pull the engine(fingers crossed) thanks in advance for any info.

 

The 'gas cap' can be picked quite easily - I did it on mine when I lost the key - the seat's probably the same - google 'DIY Bogota Rake' and if you have a grinder and an old hack saw blade you can make one. It's fun.

Good luck

 

There is a code on the bottom of the ignition switch assembly that can be used to cut keys.

 

Here is how I have used an inspection mirror to read the code:

 

Awesome Dan, that’s what I was looking for. Thanks

 

Ok so I got the code, took it to a lock and key and had a key made, problem is it doesn’t work. The locksmith told me it wasn’t the right code but there’s not another one. I’m going to have to assume the key is cut wrong? In any case I picked the seat lock so I was able to remove the seat and tank. Did a little cleanup and basically just seeing what’s there.
I also pulled the plugs to see what the cylinders looked like and they looked great!

 

Airbox looks like it was used by a chipmunk or mice.

 

I would say so I vacuumed all the shells out and got the box wiped out. There’s going to be a lot of cleaning the next few weeks.

 

I had a guy I know offer me a set of carbs off an ‘86 XJ700. Will those be compatible?

 

Not really.

 

A bit of a hassle but you can pull the ignition switch out and take it to your locksmith and let him work from there. I guess not as big a hassle as not having a key.....
Oh, where are my manners, Welcome and Good Luck!

 

Thank you for that information. I’m still searching the threads for more info.

 

I managed to locate a set of carbs off a ‘81 XJ650. Can I assume those would work?

 

Yes, they should work. You only need to be aware that the 81 Maxim did not have the YICS system, so I believe they were jetted slightly different. Not a big deal, bring the jets from the old rack or get some new ones.

All the data and everything you ever wanted to know about what jets on what models can be found here: http://xj4ever.com/catalog/c-hitachi.html

 

A more up-to-date version of the parts catalog can also be found on this website at:

https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-c-fuel-system.44642

 

The helmet lock is easier to remove to bring to a lock smith than the ignition. Just don't forget to put the lock back or your bike will soon be missing the helmet lock like mine.

 

Helmet and seat locks are very rudimentary types of locks, and I don't think that you can use it's cylinder type as a guide for making a key that will also operate the main switch.

 

Yep exactly what I did however I’m going out of town this week and might not get back over there.
I was also able to pick up a set of carbs off an ‘81 that will be here tomorrow.

 

I had a busy morning. Took the helmet lock back to the locksmith today. There was a different guy there and he read the wafers and compared it to the code I had. Said he had no idea where the other guy got his code but the first key was wrong so he cut a new key, cleaned up the core for me re-installed it in the mechanism, no charge. I thanked the guy went home and tried the key in the ignition with it working no problem. The tank however was a different story. It felt like there was something keeping the key from going in so back up to the locksmith I went with the tank. He picked the lock and went into the mechanism to release the core from the lock. I understand the principle of the retaining wafer but not how to get at it. He went under the cylinder o-ring and worked at it until he got the tab to release. Said it was stuck from sitting so he cleaned and lubed it and re-installed everything. While I was there I asked for a second key so two working keys for all three locks, over an hour of the locksmiths time and he charged me $22 because he said it was fun working on something you had to actually figure out.
while I had the tank finally open I was able to get a much better look in there also. It looks pretty clean and what little bit is there should clean up easily.
The set of carbs I bought showed up today as well and although they reeked of gas varnish(as was expected) they weren’t too bad. I’ll have to do a little more reading on those before diving in. I’m no stranger to carbs but I want to learn a little more about this set.

 

First thing I did just for that reason….

 

Left town for a few days but still keeping things going. I ordered kits for the carbs and a new bolt and washer to replace the one missing from the clutch basket. Kits are Chinese but I mainly wanted them for the seals and gaskets. Bolt and washer are OEM and were ordered from the Yamaha partshouse. I also ordered the clutch cover bolts off of EBay and the total on that was $9 shipping included. Cost 2x the bolts to ship lol. I figured I’d use the old gasket as a pattern for my laser and cut a new one that way. I won’t be back for another 10 days or so but there will be a big stack of goodies to keep me busy upon my return.

 

Back and at it today, decided I wanted to try ultrasonic cleaning and keeping the carb bank together per the factory manual. Watched a couple of vids and came up with this idea.

gonna leave it running overnight and see how it works.

 

Interesting but I wonder if it's 'ultra' enough. i.e. sufficient Hz

 

That actually worked really well and the carb bodies came out really clean. You can see the grime in the solution and the rinse bucket. Varnish and gunk all gone as well. I just used a slightly strong solution of Simple Green and hot water to start.
I did use Chem-dip for all my brass parts which cleaned up very well and after verifying there were no clogs I re-installed. I really just cleaned and re-used pretty much everything but the float needle and seat. They were glued in lol. all in all I’ll give my cleaner an “A” it did the job.

 

I got lucky. I did try and “tune” it to a smooth frequency. One that passed little vibration to the table.

 

As I look on eBay for a right side cover I see many left side(which is what I have) So I’m assuming loosing the right side was prevalent?

 

You are exactly right. The right side covers manage to get lost or broken or whatever.

 

So other than paying a kings ransom for the right cover is there a solution? Anyone make repops?

 

Unfortunately, there are not currently any good+cheap options. But there are options

Note that all of these options are most likely going to require refinishing, and paint=$$, that's just not avoidable, unless you get really lucky and find one in decent shape in the correct color.

Here are the options as of this point in time:

Option 1: eBay. Expect to pay $80-$100 for a good copy. Add refinishing cost. Broken and otherwise crappy examples can be gotten for less - if you go that route you will spend time and money repairing a busted up cover, see here: https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/how-to-repair-plastic-side-covers.130812/

Option 2: Repop. No, there are no $20 options available on aliexpress.com. However, @FlyGp has done a reproduction. Not exactly inexpensive either, but they work perfectly well. See here: https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/xj650-maxim-right-side-cover-reproduction.130264/

Option 3: 3D Print. We are not there yet, but I think there will be a time when lots of goodies for our bikes will be able to be built on demand, either with a printer at home or using a low-volume production option such as xometry.com. @Nick S is currently working on the Maxim right side cover. See here: https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/3d-scanning-side-covers.130648/

Option 4: This group's "For Sale, Trade/Swap, Wanted" forum. Do a "wanted" post. Maybe someone has one they are willing to part with. Worth a shot.

Option 5: Parts bike. This is not for the faint of heart. Its a lot of time and work, but if done right you can get parts and come out cash neutral or even cash positive.

 

Thanks Dan, I normally use options 1,4 and 5. Paint is not an issue as the tank and left cover need to be painted thanks to a PO and a can of rattle can yellow. I’m in no hurry as I’m no stranger to bike restoration and repair. I’ve just not done one of these XJ’s. I will be posting my next wave of questions very soon now that I have the carbs done.

 

love the sander/ ultrasonic cleaner.
are there any alternatives to the "simple green" solution, it seems very expensive to obtain over here

 

Bensalf as far as I know Simple Green and Pine-sol are the same thing. How’s the availability of that over there?

 

Today was all about getting the clutch cover back on. The replacement screws for the cover are in and the new bolt and washer for the clutch basket. I decided to try and make a gasket so I picked up a sheet of material and made a file for my laser. The first gasket was just a smidge small so I increased the size a few mm and it worked perfect.

 

Not much progress other than rounding up goodies.

 

Hey! You found one!

 

Yep it was local and the guy was totally fair.

 

pine sol is even worse, only available from U.S. , with shipping doubling the cost
does anything else work?

 

https://ultrasonic-cleaners.org/how-to-make-homemade-ultrasonic-cleaner-solvent.html
Bensalf I found this but a web search turned up all kinds of DIY solutions.

 

well, thanks for that, didnt know you could make up a solution from household products
will give it a try, on my spare set of carbs, soon

 

Finally had a minute to get back after things and the weather was GLORIOUS Today so I opened the big door and enjoyed some Sun and great natural light which is way better than 40 LED’s. I can see I’m going to have to replace the intake boots but I want to see how this bike is gonna behave. I installed the clutch cover and hooked up the cable. Took a minute to get it adjusted due to lack of previous lubrication. Slicked up the boots and managed to get the carb bank on. Four carb banks are a PITA when the boots are a little hard but they popped on. Hooked up the choke and throttle and everything appeared to be operating correctly. Put oil in the engine, turned it over a few times to get the oil pressure up top and sprayed a little starter fluid on the carbs just to see. The bike hit a few times then started!(well I’m calling it a start)

Next up I suppose I will get the tank cleaned out and put some actual gas to it.

 

Bonus today. I ordered a battery and while I’m waiting on that I thought I’d see about clean up the Master Cylinder and front caliper. I was happy to see that both had a little fluid in them which meant they didn’t dry out so I vacuum bled about 4fills on the MC until it came out clear. I had a really firm lever. It is a little sticky still so I may end up tearing them apart but apparently no leaks and the brakes work. I picked up a rear paella also and those are stiff as well. This poor bike was basically abandoned judging from the things I’m finding, someone was excited for a minute and then it obviously sat.

 

With the carbs ready and the battery installed I want to finish up the tank for use. I know it will start, I want the gas tank on to run it. I see now why the paint on the tank was cracking. Whoever painted it had it so thick it was crazy. Primer coat was super thick also bit it took several applications of stripper to get through all that paint.
I put a coat of primer, sanded two coats of paint, sanded and put a finish coat on this morning. I’ll let that dry and sand again before clear-coating it, then another sanding and polish.

 

I also don’t know what I’m missing to get this battery strap to hook?

 

Hope this helps.

Jeff

 

Thanks Jeff, something is definitely missing. I’m also trying to prime the carbs as this thing is ready to start.

 

What you seem to be missing is called, for whatever reason, the "bank hook". Yamaha PN 4H7-2175R.

If you search that part number on eBay you will find some stuff. Maybe @chacal has them too.

 

Ok got it to start but it wouldn’t stay running because it was leaking out of #1. I pulled them back off thinking it probably had crap in it and it felt like a “burr” on the needle. It wouldn’t slide in the seat smoothly. Anyone ever get a defective carb part like that?

 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I pulled them back off thinking it probably had crap in it and it felt like a “burr” on the needle. It wouldn’t slide in the seat smoothly. Anyone ever get a defective carb part like that?

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

i use a piece of scotchbrite pad to clean up the needles, also a cotton bud with some metal polish in a battery drill, to clean the needle bore ,and the needle seat.
and change the "o" rings around the needle seat outer seal

 

I’m probably just going to make a hook. Thanks Dan

 

I gave up for the day. Wind is blowing about 40 mph out side and swirling crap around in the garage. Rags were blowing away and given what was going on it was aggravating and not a good situation for dealing with gasoline. I need to have the door open and it just got to be too much.